Official (1982-1988) 270DA Thread

Anyone here with a 270 DA with twin 4cyl motors? looking for performance numbers. Is this underpowered?
 
NH Tooner said:
Anyone here with a 270 DA with twin 4cyl motors? looking for performance numbers. Is this underpowered?
Click to expand...

We are running two V-6's at 185 horsepower each with no issues. Not a rocket but no problem with loads - upper 30's if I hold her wide open for a minute or so.
My Dad had a early 80's 260 DA with the 470's - 170 hp 4 bangers. That boat ran in the upper 40's with them.
I am guessing if they are the 485's - 185 h.p. 4 bangers you would be fine. That would be the same horsepower I am running but with less weight.

Just my thoughts :huh:
 
The track seal is available. I ordered some today. Also ordered the screw cover rubber. I'm looking for the profile for the stationary window seal rubber or should I seal it with silicone?
KC_Sundancer said:
Yes that is what the rubber strip looks like for holding the glass in place.
That pulls out from the inside of the window frame.
I was able to re-use that strip as it is not exposed to the outside weather.
Some of this may be a repeat but when re-installing the glass (plastic) I did the following:


  • sealed the inside joints/gaps of the extruded aluminum with Dow Corning Window Adhesive Sealant
  • set the glass in place from the inside with the frame laying flat on a bench.
  • used the Dow Corning Window Adhesive Sealant to put a nice heavy bead around the edge of the glass and the frame from the inside of the window.
  • pressed the rubber glass retaining strip into the frame.
  • flipped over the assembly and put a nice bead of the Dow adhesive sealant around the outside perimeter of the glass and frame. (this one you see)
  • Used the 3M 4200UV to bed to the deck and fastened (tough to clean so take your time and get handling help)
  • Followed final installation with a nice bead around the deck window frame joint (it's tight along the bottom and railing stanchion areas - used a small tube)

All the dis-assembly and re-assembly was done on a bench outside of the boat.

It does not look like they sent you any pictures of the actual seal the window slides in. From what I understand they are sold out of that now.
I'm wishing I would have replaced the track seals when I had them apart as I could get them then.
The track seal was not and still is not a leak issue though, but they are starting to dry out and break apart.
I am investigating another source right now for the track seal and screw cover and will share the response I get.
Hopefully soon :huh:
Click to expand...
 
KC_Sundancer said:
I have not had one in 3 years so I joined in on the Coast Guard's annual visit for inspection certification today.
Surprisingly we had 20 boats show up for it, three of them classic Sea Rays - (2) 260DA's and a 290DA.
As far as Ray's it's usually just me and an 85 260DA in the Marina. I thought it was a holiday rush with all the boats.
Any way, I went through everything ahead of time being overly equipped for safety thinking it would be a breeze.
Everything went smooth until the last check of the running lights and dang - the starboard light is out. Fingers crossed, he had one more boat to check and I could fix it.
I was worried it was the bulb as carpets are rolled up around town at 5:00 pm and I would not be getting one tonight.
So I pulled it apart and as soon as the cover screws are out it comes on. Whew - it was corroded up so I cleaned it real good and got my 2012 Safety Sticker - wooohooo!. :smt038
I should probably pull the port light and clean it too. Actually I should swap out all the Navigation bulbs for LED.
Time to put some hours on the engines with the holiday. :grin:
Click to expand...
Dielectric grease...great for motorcycle lights and boat lighting too...
 
Leftka said:
Dielectric grease...great for motorcycle lights and boat lighting too...
Click to expand...
Thanks, I have a small tube of that in the boat tool box - forgotten at the time of course. I'll have to put some on when the winter cover is pulled. :thumbsup:
 
Just sharing where I installed our Lowrance Structure Scan, Simrad 4G Radar Module and Ethernet Network in our 270DA.
This was installed in the port-side closet at the entrance to the cabin. It made installation of both very simple with the network being so easily accessible, yet out of the way.

network1.jpg
 
Hello All. I do not post much just do a lot of reading. I am trying to diagnose an RPM issue with my 84 270 DA. My throttle seems to "bottom out" on the dash and when I do it is running around 3200 RPM. I have alwayse thought it was a throttle issue, and I was recently told many vintage sundancers all bottom out on the dash.

Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks for the help.
 
Looks good KC. I had just enough room under the dash to fit my radar module. I wanted to put my on-board battery charger in that same closet so I can keep an eye on it. Problem was, the wires were not long enough to reach the batteries and I did not want to splice longer leads on them for fear of amperage/charging issues.
 
Thanks GETAWAY.


zharris05 said:
Hello All. I do not post much just do a lot of reading. I am trying to diagnose an RPM issue with my 84 270 DA. My throttle seems to "bottom out" on the dash and when I do it is running around 3200 RPM. I have alwayse thought it was a throttle issue, and I was recently told many vintage sundancers all bottom out on the dash.
Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

What is meant by "bottom out on the dash"?
Ours, at full throttle, reach a stop point in the throttle itself and never contact the dash.
3,200 rpm seems low and could be the result of many possible issues - props, fuel, ignition etc.
 
My throttle never reaches a "stop point". I eventually throttle down until it hits the dash. In neutral I have revved up to 5000 rpm. But in gear I am against the dash at under 3500 rpm.
 
According to my Sea Ray prop matrix chart you should be running a 19 3/4 x 21 propellor at 4,600 rpm W.O.T.
If that's true, as I said, bad fuel, ignition, etc. may be your low rpm problem.
 
Cabin Floor Dry Rot Repair Started
Since I fixed all the top-side water leaks, wood in the flooring has been drying out and crumbling from dry-rot.
Besides the typical sliding window frame leaks, one of the main culprits was hull/deck joint leaks from incorrect sealing of the rub rail by the previous owner.
Toughest part of the start of the project was figuring out where all the screws are holding things together.
I took lots of pictures of where they are so if anyone needs help with a similar project just ask.
This is Day 1 of the tear down so I'm sure more will be uncovered as I dig deeper.

Sorry about the duplicate attached image at the end - hit the wrong button.:smt101

The main leak fix a few years back:
rail-Slide1.jpg


The Fix:

rail-Slide2.jpg
Click to expand...
Hi all,

I a relatively new to this Forum and glad I found this thread.

I just pulled my new to me last fall 270 DA with a single 7.4L Mercruiser and Z drive. The boat has leaks in the V berth area that results in a very wet shelf above the lower upholstered bolster. After pulling the upper bolster (to have some reupholstery work done over the winter), I found the wood to which the fabric liner is attached to be soaking wet and basically mush. I assumed all I needed to do was pull the rubber insert from the metal rubrail and reseat the screws that held the wood in place. I was surprised to find what look like pop rivets and no screws (as in the photo above). The rivets appear to be tight. I do not know how to access the screw heads and am concerned they may not run through both the deck and hull, meaning pulling the metal rubrail will not allow access to the screws. I have this concern because it looks like Searay may have done the interior work to the hull and deck before assembling them (hence the rivets?).

If this is the case, can I simply cut off the screws and run new ones through the metal rubrail channel?

The PO also caulked only under the rubrail, as in the photo. If I can run the screws to reattach the interior wood through the rubrail and caulk the top of it (again as shown in the photo), what is the likelihood the leak will be fixed? Should I remove the caulk below the rubrail?

As with all older boats, I have more to do, but this issue has me stumped. Thanks for any help

Klancy
 
Cabin Floor Dry Rot Repair Started
Since I fixed all the top-side water leaks, wood in the flooring has been drying out and crumbling from dry-rot.
Besides the typical sliding window frame leaks, one of the main culprits was hull/deck joint leaks from incorrect sealing of the rub rail by the previous owner.
Toughest part of the start of the project was figuring out where all the screws are holding things together.
I took lots of pictures of where they are so if anyone needs help with a similar project just ask.
This is Day 1 of the tear down so I'm sure more will be uncovered as I dig deeper.

Sorry about the duplicate attached image at the end - hit the wrong button.:smt101

The main leak fix a few years back:
rail-Slide1.jpg


The Fix:

rail-Slide2.jpg
Click to expand...
Hi all,

I a relatively new to this Forum and glad I found this thread.

I just pulled my new to me last fall 270 DA with a single 7.4L Mercruiser and Z drive. The boat has leaks in the V berth area that results in a very wet shelf above the lower upholstered bolster. After pulling the upper bolster (to have some reupholstery work done over the winter), I found the wood to which the fabric liner is attached to be soaking wet and basically mush. I assumed all I needed to do was pull the rubber insert from the metal rubrail and reseat the screws that held the wood in place. I was surprised to find what look like pop rivets and no screws (as in the photo above). The rivets appear to be tight. I do not know how to access the screw heads and am concerned they may not run through both the deck and hull, meaning pulling the metal rubrail will not allow access to the screws. I have this concern because it looks like Searay may have done the interior work to the hull and deck before assembling them (hence the rivets?).

If this is the case, can I simply cut off the screws and run new ones through the metal rubrail channel?

The PO also caulked only under the rubrail, as in the photo. If I can run the screws to reattach the interior wood through the rubrail and caulk the top of it (again as shown in the photo), what is the likelihood the leak will be fixed? Should I remove the caulk below the rubrail?

As with all older boats, I have more to do, but this issue has me stumped. Thanks for any help

Klancy
 
Klancy said:
Hi all,

I a relatively new to this Forum and glad I found this thread.

I just pulled my new to me last fall 270 DA with a single 7.4L Mercruiser and Z drive. The boat has leaks in the V berth area that results in a very wet shelf above the lower upholstered bolster. After pulling the upper bolster (to have some reupholstery work done over the winter), I found the wood to which the fabric liner is attached to be soaking wet and basically mush. I assumed all I needed to do was pull the rubber insert from the metal rubrail and reseat the screws that held the wood in place. I was surprised to find what look like pop rivets and no screws (as in the photo above). The rivets appear to be tight. I do not know how to access the screw heads and am concerned they may not run through both the deck and hull, meaning pulling the metal rubrail will not allow access to the screws. I have this concern because it looks like Searay may have done the interior work to the hull and deck before assembling them (hence the rivets?).

If this is the case, can I simply cut off the screws and run new ones through the metal rubrail channel?

The PO also caulked only under the rubrail, as in the photo. If I can run the screws to reattach the interior wood through the rubrail and caulk the top of it (again as shown in the photo), what is the likelihood the leak will be fixed? Should I remove the caulk below the rubrail?

As with all older boats, I have more to do, but this issue has me stumped. Thanks for any help

Klancy
Click to expand...

A few items involved here.

First the leak:
Sounds similar to the issue I had.
I suggest pulling the rubber insert out of the rub rail.
Clean it out good including the few drain holes they have near the rear corners.
Replace any loose rivets.
Put a new bead of caulk along the top (3m 4000 UV).
I chose to also re-caulk the bottom side because we often run in heavy seas with the occasional green water over the deck. Water would then jet in from the bottom side.
You may also want to check / re-bed the railing attachments, nav lights, cleats etc..
Be sure the anchor locker drain is clean-out too.

Second the Interior wood rot
Nothing is attached from outside or through the rub rail.
Many fasteners are hidden, a flash light and mirror helps with the cabinetry.
If you are referring to the actual shelves in the V-berth area they are not removable. The shelves are fiber-glassed to the hull during construction.

Post some pictures to be sure we are talking about the same areas and we can better assist.
 
Spent the afternoon digging further into the leak issue. There are most definitely screws (sheet metal) coming through the hull that holds a now trashed wood strip against the inside of the hull deck joint. I am pulling away all of the moldy fabric glued against the inside of the hull, above the shelf, as well as cleaning out the rotten wood and will get photos of the whole area as soon as I can. Thanks for your help
 
Klancy said:
Spent the afternoon digging further into the leak issue. There are most definitely screws (sheet metal) coming through the hull that holds a now trashed wood strip against the inside of the hull deck joint. I am pulling away all of the moldy fabric glued against the inside of the hull, above the shelf, as well as cleaning out the rotten wood and will get photos of the whole area as soon as I can. Thanks for your help
Click to expand...

Ah - I know which strip of wood you are now talking about at the hull deck joint after re-reading you initial post a few times.
Sea Ray does/did not fiber-glass the hull and deck together, the sheet metal screws into that strip of rotted wood are what hold the two together.
They are behind the metal rub rail. That being said, removing the metal part of rub rail would allow access, a lot of drilling and re-riveting.
If you go that far re-caulk the actual hull deck joint gap too. ( the deck fits over the hull like a shoe box cover)
 
Thanks for confirming my sanity. There are both screws and rivets coming into the boat interior at the hull deck joint abone the V berth (rivets only in the anchor locker). My concern is that the screws may just be through the hull and not the deck, in which case pulling the metal rub rail will not expose them due to the deck being "shoeboxed" over the hull. I suspect the rivets were used as the hull deck joint and the screws just to hold that piece of wood, around which the fabric is wrapped.

If Searay manufactured and finished the hull separately from the deck, the screws holding the wood strip may have been run through just the hull. I don't mean to be dense or overly persistent, but I hate the thought of pulling the rub rail (and all of those rivets) to find no screw heads. Is there any way I can confirm, or not, how the original, final assembly may have been done? If I can get to the screws and fix the leak by pulling the rub rail, might it be OK to do the reassembly with just screws and no rivets? That seems easier than using both.
 
Klancy said:
Thanks for confirming my sanity. There are both screws and rivets coming into the boat interior at the hull deck joint abone the V berth (rivets only in the anchor locker). My concern is that the screws may just be through the hull and not the deck, in which case pulling the metal rub rail will not expose them due to the deck being "shoeboxed" over the hull. I suspect the rivets were used as the hull deck joint and the screws just to hold that piece of wood, around which the fabric is wrapped.

If Searay manufactured and finished the hull separately from the deck, the screws holding the wood strip may have been run through just the hull. I don't mean to be dense or overly persistent, but I hate the thought of pulling the rub rail (and all of those rivets) to find no screw heads. Is there any way I can confirm, or not, how the original, final assembly may have been done? If I can get to the screws and fix the leak by pulling the rub rail, might it be OK to do the reassembly with just screws and no rivets? That seems easier than using both.
Click to expand...

Just a thought on another way around this:

1/ Get the rotted wood out, cutting as needed.
2/ Cut a new piece of wood.
3/ Either trim the existing screws close to flush with the hull or drill pockets in the new piece of wood for them to clear.
4/ Pull the rubber strip out of the rub rail.
5/ Drill and c'sink new holes and use longer screws (with sealant) through both the rub rail, hull and deck to hold the new piece in.
6/ Clean and seal the rub rail as in earlier posts.

You could also choose to use Screws and Nuts if you have a helper and use decorative plastic caps if they are visible inside.
The only thing is being sure the wood strip and holes are in-line.
Not the "perfect" fix but definitely easier than pulling the metal part of the rubrail.

I look at many of my repairs with the fact that the boat has been around 30 years before it got to this point.
Which amazes me at times with some of the original construction and design items found when digging into things.
Either way, I figure it's still holding together and anything I do will only be that much better.

Share some pics of the repair as you go and good luck. :thumbsup:
 
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