Official (1982-1988) 270DA Thread

This seems like a good way to get things back together. I planned to cut the current screws with a cut-off wheel (Dremel). I need to be sure, however, that I fix the leak that started all of this. I like your idea of caulking the top of the metal rub rail. I think I also need to seal, from the inside, the cut off screw ends and also seal from the outside the rivets and new screws.

I'll get some pics this week, before I proceed and do plan to document the process.

After the leaks stop, it on to the reupholstry work:)
 
Look forward to the pics.
You have probably already thought about this but:
Stainless seems to take longer to grind through, don't let the screws get too hot when cutting them.
It may soften the material around them and loosen their current grip. :huh:
Maybe grind a little on each then back to the first just to be safe?
 
Good point; thanks for the tip. I also realized that when I pull the rotten wood, the rivets will loosen and need to be replaced. I think I'll cut them too and then push out the remainder rather than drill them out.

My son is getting married this weekend, so I may not get much done for a few days.
 
Klancy said:
Good point; thanks for the tip. I also realized that when I pull the rotten wood, the rivets will loosen and need to be replaced. I think I'll cut them too and then push out the remainder rather than drill them out.

My son is getting married this weekend, so I may not get much done for a few days.
Click to expand...

Congrats with the new daughter-in-law and enjoy the celebration.
 
Looks like I may be jumping back into the 80's 270 sundancer world. Had an 83 a number of years ago. as kids got older and into a number of other things the weekends at the lake got fewer so sold the boat. Now kids are all grown and I now have grandkids. Time to get back into it.

Going to look at an 84 with 260's Gen set and AC. A must here in AZ.

I'm fairly familiar with the 270's but need a opinion or 2.

Want to take a moisture meter along. has anybody used the harbor freight $13.99 cheapie? I want to get the transom and stringers as well as the decks. Rot is m biggest concern.
Son is a Mechanic so compression testing is no problem.
1000 hrs on motors. New manifolds an risers
3 axle trailer tires will need to be replaced.
No Radar arch so will be looking for one if I buy it.
Really interested in opinions on moisture meters.
And any other thoughts and opinions.
thanks in advance
 
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Take a good look at the restoration i did in this thread as it may help in key areas to be checking for water damage. (closet floor area, cabin step area, fwd bilges, transom, structure under batteries and water tank).
Water damage may not actually be "wet" any more or detectable with a moisture meter. Tap on areas for a solid sound, look for tea colored dripping stains, bounce around on the cabin floor looking for soft spots etc... I dug out a few area that were just dried out powdered wood from water damage decades ago.
Sorry, can't help with the moisture meter part of the question.
Best of luck with your investigations and search. :thumbsup:
 
Getaway
thanks for the link.

KC
Read your repair thread over the last few days. A wealth of information. Thanks. Not a task would undertake. There was battery box on my 83 that was rotted out yet the shelf was fine. I was installing 4 Trojan golf cart batteries so removed the wood/fiberglass box and went with plastic battery boxes. Today is my first look at the boat so we shall see.
You do your boating on some BIG water. When I was a kid in the 60s and 70's My dad had a place in Skanee on Huron Bay.
Kept a small boat at Witz's Marina. Looks much different today than when I was there. I'm sure Vivan has log since past but believe the family still runs it. Truly amazing area for boating and fishing.

Thanks to both of you for your reply
 
You are very welcome, we are all glad to help.
Share some pictures if you can in this thread, we like to see what's going on with others.
Again - best of luck to you!
 
Going to take a look at it this morning. If it passes the eye test and compression test and the hammer test :{) decided a survey was the best way to go. $15/foot is cheap insurance.
Wish it had a windlass but will just have to factor that into the offer. Motivated seller.
 

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Looks clean from the outside and you can always add the windlass as I did.
I agree, survey a great idea, cheap insurance and minimal surprises after a purchase.
 
Looks very clean outside and in for the most part. All windows an hatches will need to be resealed and headliner replaced. I an live with that. 3.5KW Onan genset with only 169 hrs. trailer will need 6 new tires and since wheels are 14.5" I think I'll get 15" The big surprise
and possible show stopper.
OMC engines and drives. Going to have to give that some thought.
Love some opinions
 
There have been some recent posts about OMC drives on a boat being looked at, I think it was passed up. :huh:
Sounded like parts and their unavailability with the OMC's are the big deal. Do some diligent investigation.
 
Well pulled the plug on this deal. The 1984 OMC Stringer outdrive system Killed it for me. Had it been an 85 with the OMC Cobra I would have worked something out.
What engineer came up with the idea to trim the drive by moving the motor? Can't even get a conversion kit. Parts do seem to be available but drive Is a PITA to work on. Imagine having to pull the OD to change the impeller
The search continues.
Thanks to all for your comments
 
IMG_0085 (640x480).jpg

My apologies for the delay in posting this pic of my hull deck joint leak (I have more photos, but can't get them to resize small enough). The rivets and screws hopefully are visible. I have removed the fabric and wood that was against the joint to expose the fasteners and residual glue or resin.

I think the best approach is to cut the screws at the joint and seal them. I hope to be be to cut off the rivets and punch them out, rather than risk drilling them out and enlarging the rivet hole. Then, hopefully, I can simply install new rivets (with 3M 4200 UV sealant).

Should I rivet through just the hull and deck, or also a new piece of wood? One thought is to do some of both; first riveting the hull/deck joint, then installing the wood and adding rivets through the hull, deck and wood. New fabric will be glued/stapled against the wood. After the fabric is installed, new bolsters will screw against the fabric covered wood (and also along the front edge of the shelf).

Once the riveting is done, I'll seal the rub rail, top and bottom on the outside and dab some sealant over the rivet heads.

If I get this right, the job should be more tedious than difficult and the leak should stop.

All that being said, this is new to me and I am not sure I am on the right track. Thanks for any help.
 
Klancy said:
View attachment 40190

My apologies for the delay in posting this pic of my hull deck joint leak (I have more photos, but can't get them to resize small enough). The rivets and screws hopefully are visible. I have removed the fabric and wood that was against the joint to expose the fasteners and residual glue or resin.

I think the best approach is to cut the screws at the joint and seal them. I hope to be be to cut off the rivets and punch them out, rather than risk drilling them out and enlarging the rivet hole. Then, hopefully, I can simply install new rivets (with 3M 4200 UV sealant).

Should I rivet through just the hull and deck, or also a new piece of wood? One thought is to do some of both; first riveting the hull/deck joint, then installing the wood and adding rivets through the hull, deck and wood. New fabric will be glued/stapled against the wood. After the fabric is installed, new bolsters will screw against the fabric covered wood (and also along the front edge of the shelf).

Once the riveting is done, I'll seal the rub rail, top and bottom on the outside and dab some sealant over the rivet heads.

If I get this right, the job should be more tedious than difficult and the leak should stop.

All that being said, this is new to me and I am not sure I am on the right track. Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

If you go through the wood too use a washer on the inside - helper needed.
 
twinscrewzz said:
Well pulled the plug on this deal. The 1984 OMC Stringer outdrive system Killed it for me. Had it been an 85 with the OMC Cobra I would have worked something out.
What engineer came up with the idea to trim the drive by moving the motor? Can't even get a conversion kit. Parts do seem to be available but drive Is a PITA to work on. Imagine having to pull the OD to change the impeller
The search continues.
Thanks to all for your comments
Click to expand...

Probably for the better - good luck with the search.
 
OK so a little off topic for this thread but as the deal fell through on 270 dancer and the search continues I needed to get on the water.
Well a little known partnership was put together in the mid 70's to build a solid mid console fishing boat for Lake Powell. Connie Ray and a Home builder Knoell Homes here in AZ got together and designed and built the KCraft. Sold out to Sunset Boats in the early 80's.
Buying it from the grandson.
Pictures to follow
 
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