420 DA Thread

Hi,
Need some help. When I start my Port engine Cummins 8.3 the volt meter jumps back and forth from 12-14 volts every 15-30 seconds, the engine rpm gauge also goes crazy with the rpm readings. A guy suggested unplugging the air preheater on the engine, I disconnected the two red cables to heater, now everything works great. Is it ok to run like this or what might need replaced? Now the Starboard engine gauge has started to do the same thing? Thanks

You can safely disconnect the heaters. I assume your in FL, if so you probably don't need the heaters at all. Without them cool/cold starts will be slightly smokier until the temp in engine builds. Don't know if there is a "magic" temp for this but guessing its under 60 degrees (block temperature).
You can get aftermarket oil pan heaters that work much better if you feel you need them.

Check the sbmar.com website for more info, including instruction on how to completely remove the old heaters.
 
fhauk....went to the boat yesterday to do some work. Checked the small hatch in the aft cabin and there was a cup or two of water in it. Had a slight tinge color to it, but it definitely was NOT anything from the blackwater system! I vacuumed that out and will continue watching. My AC was running yesterday and I didn't see any evidence of the AC drip pan overflowing. I think my hose from the drip pan to the gray water sump is not clogged. It may be kinked.......bottom line, I'm still looking.

Now, I'm happy to report, that I completed my first "I just want to do it" project. I replaced all of the cockpit lights (originally Perkos) with LEDs. I am very pleased with the install. All the color switching works just as advertised and anticipated. Pictures are worth a thousand words.....

Lighting looks good. Are those the LED bulbs that are plug/play with a remote to get them to change color?
 
hakunamatata.....negative on the remote. They cycle through the four colors (white, red, blue, purple), by turning them on/off. If they stay off for 3-5 seconds, the cycle starts all over again. So, if I want Blue, I turn the lights on(white)/off/on(red)/off/on(blue).
 
Not sure the brands but the one in the cockpit is an RV mount that will not move. The other two in the bedrooms are regular adjustable TV mounts but I put industrial grade Velcro on the back of the TVs to the wood and they do not move nor will they :)


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Lawnboy,

Were there studs behind the wood walls for the mount to be secure? I'm finally getting around to these other 2 TVs and putting them in over Memorial Day weekend. Wondering what I'm walking into for mounting. I did purchase 2 TV mounts. 1 is an arm, the other only extends 4" which should be perfect in the master.
 
Need help replacing main breaker in load panel

I have a 1990 420 Sundancer and need help finding the 30A single pole main breaker. I'm getting some noises in the left leg breaker and want to replace it before bad stuff happens. It has a rocker switch and clips into the load panel so I don't want to Mickey Mouse something else in its place. Is there any chance I can find a replacement breaker?
 
Are you talking about the breaker panel that is located in the cockpit under the coaming by the steps? Bring it to a good supply house and see if they can match it up.
 
I finally had the cockpit refrigerator replaced. He used a Dometic 1065 SS with a space saver flange kit, according to the invoice. He said he had to trim the cabinet a bit to make it fit. The biggest issue I ran in to during the project was a group of hoses and wires in the back left upper corner of the cabinet area. That eliminated using the “nevercold” direct replacement model. Sorry the pics are sideways.
Now to fill, empty, repeat.....
20170513_070634.jpg20170513_070730.jpg20170513_070743.jpg20170513_070801.jpg
 
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Are you talking about the breaker panel that is located in the cockpit under the coaming by the steps? Bring it to a good supply house and see if they can match it up.
Yes that's the panel I was referring to. I was hoping (unrealistically, I know) that someone might know someone that can find the original style breaker. Partly for how it looks but also because the way it clips into the panel won't work with a generic breaker.

I'll keep my fingers crossed...
 
Guys a few things . Had to change my sanitation hoses a few years back . We did not change the fwd hose as it was crazy to get involved in and so far no odors but the hose failed a pressure test so clocks ticking on it .
The fwd stateroom ac unit provides air to the fwd most salon grille. I thought both grilles above the couch were off the salon ac . I was wrong . Go figure after 11years I'm still learning .
Rob
 
u want the 16,000 turbo. only one model in 115 volt. u have the change the controller and the thermostat, it all comes with the unit

rob
 
u want the 16,000 turbo. only one model in 115 volt. u have the change the controller and the thermostat, it all comes with the unit

rob

Hi Rob, Were you able to get the old 12000 btu out without much trouble? Does it require dismantling anything? I think this is the unit you were talking about
ECD 16.000 BTU - 115V
Self-Contained AC
 
u want the 16,000 turbo. only one model in 115 volt. u have the change the controller and the thermostat, it all comes with the unit

rob

Rob,

Where did you buy from, I do not see a complete kit that includes controller and thermostat. The model I am looking at is: DTU16 - Dometic Turbo Unit / 115V - 205160160 - 16,000 BTUs, only comes with control panel. Have to purchase thermo separately at $200. It is slightly bigger than the 12000 btu unit, I am assuming that it fit into the space in the corner/triangular cabinet?
 
Yes that's the panel I was referring to. I was hoping (unrealistically, I know) that someone might know someone that can find the original style breaker. Partly for how it looks but also because the way it clips into the panel won't work with a generic breaker.

I'll keep my fingers crossed...
Turns out not to be a big deal. Once equipped with the part number from the old breaker the Flounder Pounder site was very helpful along with speaking to them. They had an exact replacement for the breakers.
 
I purchased it from the local Dometic dealer ( Nautical air ) IT fits .. They went tru the couch. If u pull off the back of the couch. ( Velcro and pins , pins are on the top of the back of the couch just lift and ull see. GENTLY ) My unit came with everything .. Maybe not the thermostat . But definitely the controller . Make sure its the turbo with the composite pan.

Rob
 
fhauk....went to the boat yesterday to do some work. Checked the small hatch in the aft cabin and there was a cup or two of water in it. Had a slight tinge color to it, but it definitely was NOT anything from the blackwater system! I vacuumed that out and will continue watching. My AC was running yesterday and I didn't see any evidence of the AC drip pan overflowing. I think my hose from the drip pan to the gray water sump is not clogged. It may be kinked.......bottom line, I'm still looking.

Now, I'm happy to report, that I completed my first "I just want to do it" project. I replaced all of the cockpit lights (originally Perkos) with LEDs. I am very pleased with the install. All the color switching works just as advertised and anticipated. Pictures are worth a thousand words.....
Are the white lights able to 'light up' the cockpit better than the originals? The originals are ok for drinking beer but a bit weak for working on things or reading. Did you change all the lights in the cockpit, the 4 courtesy lights at floor level and the hardtop lights?
 
Woody, the amount of light is fantastic. Guys at the marina said that some LEDs are too bright. These lights, and given the size of the 420 cockpit, the light is perfect. Yes, I changed all four courtesy lights and all 4 in the hardtop. All around, a pretty easy job. The hardest ones are the forward courtesy lights....the one at the helm is hard because of laying on the floor, etc. The forward "port side" light is best accessed through the storage cabinet.

Jaybeaux
 

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