420 DA Thread

Woody,

I did not buy the dimmable ones.....they do have them. I believe if you look at the different types of the LED, you can get single color, 4 color dimmable, or 4 color.....

Also, note that you have to buy the retro fit kit, too. It is what holds the LED and covers the existing hole.

Jaybeaux
 
I have to replace my Fireboy CO detectors, do I need to buy the 12v Cmd-4Mr model? I took the panel off and there are two wires supplying power to the units, black & red.
 
I have no experience with the detectors on a boat but I will mention that the extra wire on detectors in a house ties them all together so when one beeps they all beep.....It could be possible to have that on a 12v system.
 
I have to replace my Fireboy CO detectors, do I need to buy the 12v Cmd-4Mr model? I took the panel off and there are two wires supplying power to the units, black & red.


Yes, I replaced mine last year with those. The other model with -RLY at the end will shut down a generator on alarm. I am guessing you have a diesel generator so no need for the relay plus I doubt your boat is wired for it.
 
Yes, I replaced mine last year with those. The other model with -RLY at the end will shut down a generator on alarm. I am guessing you have a diesel generator so no need for the relay plus I doubt your boat is wired for it.
yes, have the diesel generator, no need for the shutdown model.
Thanks, three ordered.
 
Lawnboy,

Were there studs behind the wood walls for the mount to be secure? I'm finally getting around to these other 2 TVs and putting them in over Memorial Day weekend. Wondering what I'm walking into for mounting. I did purchase 2 TV mounts. 1 is an arm, the other only extends 4" which should be perfect in the master.

No, I just put a piece of wood behind the wood for more support in the master and the aft bedroom I think I just used bolts and nuts with big washers. Hope this helps. If you need pictures let me know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
No, I just put a piece of wood behind the wood for more support in the master and the aft bedroom I think I just used bolts and nuts with big washers. Hope this helps. If you need pictures let me know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I need pics.... I am about to do all 3 televisions.
 
I need pics.... I am about to do all 3 televisions.

He did do pics a few pages ago in this thread. I also did a post on mine in the electronics section. http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/78691-TV-and-DVD-replacement-07-44-DA

I put the other 2 TVs (master and aft) in this last weekend. Each TV was a 24 (23.6" to be exact). I just used standard TV mounts, in the master I used an adjustable, dont really like it but it does the job. In the aft, I used an arm mount and that seems to work well. We were out in the ocean for a 30 minute ride and didn't have any issues with them moving. I went with $15 mounts on amazon to see how I liked it. The wood is strong enough without additional support.
 
When we run the central vac system on the boat, from the outside it sounds like a jet engine it's so loud !
Is there anyway to baffle the noise?
My Dock neighbor did not like it when my wife decided to vacuum at 8am :huh:
 
I'm planning the next project and have some questions please.... Have any of you redone your stereo wiring, specifically the power wire to the amp (behind the sofa) and the speaker wires? How hard was it? The power wire concerns me, I'm hoping I can connect the new wire to the current wire and pull through, however if it is zip tied every 6" that wont work.

I'm going to replace the stereo components with new, higher quality stuff. I'm not cutting any new holes, just swapping components. I'm worried that the current wiring is not sufficient for the higher power product I am adding in its place.

The plan is this:
1000 watt/5 channel amp, so I'm not adding a second amp.
Keeping the cabin speakers off the head unit, not changing those
2 pairs of 6.5" marine speakers to replace the cockpit speakers and throw 600 watts to them
new 12" free air sub, but I'll build an "air leaky" box by adding 2 sides of a wall to the storage under the passenger seat giving a little more of a box design behind the speaker
adding a thin tower speaker, actually a wet sounds speaker bar at the highest cross bar on the hardtop support.
 
When we run the central vac system on the boat, from the outside it sounds like a jet engine it's so loud !
Is there anyway to baffle the noise?
My Dock neighbor did not like it when my wife decided to vacuum at 8am :huh:

Now this is pretty funny. What time does he think is appropriate for his 'quiet time'?

Your neighbor would never be able to live on our dock!
 
They actually do make a baffle. Searay took it upon themselves not to use it .

It used to be on beams website ... Just google ull find it

Rob
 
I'm planning the next project and have some questions please.... Have any of you redone your stereo wiring, specifically the power wire to the amp (behind the sofa) and the speaker wires? How hard was it? The power wire concerns me, I'm hoping I can connect the new wire to the current wire and pull through, however if it is zip tied every 6" that wont work.

I'm going to replace the stereo components with new, higher quality stuff. I'm not cutting any new holes, just swapping components. I'm worried that the current wiring is not sufficient for the higher power product I am adding in its place.

The plan is this:
1000 watt/5 channel amp, so I'm not adding a second amp.
Keeping the cabin speakers off the head unit, not changing those
2 pairs of 6.5" marine speakers to replace the cockpit speakers and throw 600 watts to them
new 12" free air sub, but I'll build an "air leaky" box by adding 2 sides of a wall to the storage under the passenger seat giving a little more of a box design behind the speaker
adding a thin tower speaker, actually a wet sounds speaker bar at the highest cross bar on the hardtop support.



I upgraded my system and did exactly what you are planning....Take the storage box out that sits behind the open cabin door... A fish tape is a must. It will also help to take the panel off above the sink, it just pops off with the christmas tree push in type fasteners. You can pull the triangle storage box at the bottom of the steps and see where the loom is located....I went through the arch/hardtop to do the starboard side speakers....I also hung pods on the inside of the hardtop, they turned out great and hold 8 speakers...I used the JL 6.6 and 7.7 in mine.....I left the original wiring for the head unit and just pulled the #4 to power the new amps.....Be sure to fuse the new power line!! Hope this helps, I can show pics or go into more detail if you need....
 
I upgraded my system and did exactly what you are planning....Take the storage box out that sits behind the open cabin door... A fish tape is a must. It will also help to take the panel off above the sink, it just pops off with the christmas tree push in type fasteners. You can pull the triangle storage box at the bottom of the steps and see where the loom is located....I went through the arch/hardtop to do the starboard side speakers....I also hung pods on the inside of the hardtop, they turned out great and hold 8 speakers...I used the JL 6.6 and 7.7 in mine.....I left the original wiring for the head unit and just pulled the #4 to power the new amps.....Be sure to fuse the new power line!! Hope this helps, I can show pics or go into more detail if you need....

Thank you, very helpful! With regards to the JL mids... is there enough depth for the 7.7 or did you have to add a spacer? I'm going Rockford (a friend is a VP there and the deal is sweet!) and if I can do their 8" stuff in the arch, that would be excellent, however I was worried about depth. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pm282x

On the hardtop, did you just drill through a small hole and fish it through? Or is there another opening for a clean install?

Did you also build out the box a little under the passenger seat at the helm like I am describing? The right way to do it would be to fiberglass a box with a port in it but that's now custom work that may not be necessary with the JL free air sub.
 
Thank you, very helpful! With regards to the JL mids... is there enough depth for the 7.7 or did you have to add a spacer? I'm going Rockford (a friend is a VP there and the deal is sweet!) and if I can do their 8" stuff in the arch, that would be excellent, however I was worried about depth. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/pm282x

On the hardtop, did you just drill through a small hole and fish it through? Or is there another opening for a clean install?

Did you also build out the box a little under the passenger seat at the helm like I am describing? The right way to do it would be to fiberglass a box with a port in it but that's now custom work that may not be necessary with the JL free air sub.




The 7.7 barely fit in due to the depth in the original side speaker holes without a spacer. I had to enlarge the existing holes and the upper one needs to be offset a little to the back to not cut into the metal frame supporting the arch/hardtop. I used a piece of plywood in the old speaker hole so I could offset the pilot bit.


On my hardtop there is a television mounted on a big removable oval. It was easy to remove and makes a large hole to fish the wires, Im almost certain the oval hole is a factory thing for getting to the underside of radar/gps/anchor light. I did drill small holes forward of the oval to mount the pods, they are centered over the backrest of the helm seats so we don't hit our heads on them.

I did away with the free air sub, I turned to hole into a "vent". It looks better than the old speaker grille. My boat has the cockpit A/C so the access door that flops into the feet area is louvered too. We then put 2 10" subs in ported boxes pointing up. It took up all the room in that compartment but it was worth it to me....I like a lot thump and I still can't believe how well the system turned out.


good luck with the install
 
Need help! The engine hatch will not raise on my 2003 Sundancer 420. Can't get in the engine compartment. Both lift motors were replaced this past year, CB under helm is in. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Larry,

Is the "door" to the swim platform open, and the magnets are making contact? That is "lock-out" so to speak. This is what immediately came to mind.

Jaybeaux
 
Jaybeaux,
The door was open, maybe not latched. I will check that out. Was not aware of the magnets. Thanks Larry
 
Last edited:
The 7.7 barely fit in due to the depth in the original side speaker holes without a spacer. I had to enlarge the existing holes and the upper one needs to be offset a little to the back to not cut into the metal frame supporting the arch/hardtop. I used a piece of plywood in the old speaker hole so I could offset the pilot bit.


On my hardtop there is a television mounted on a big removable oval. It was easy to remove and makes a large hole to fish the wires, Im almost certain the oval hole is a factory thing for getting to the underside of radar/gps/anchor light. I did drill small holes forward of the oval to mount the pods, they are centered over the backrest of the helm seats so we don't hit our heads on them.

I did away with the free air sub, I turned to hole into a "vent". It looks better than the old speaker grille. My boat has the cockpit A/C so the access door that flops into the feet area is louvered too. We then put 2 10" subs in ported boxes pointing up. It took up all the room in that compartment but it was worth it to me....I like a lot thump and I still can't believe how well the system turned out.

good luck with the install


Thanks ASH, I have cockpit A/C also. I need the storage, so I'm going to try the 12 first and add 2 sides behind it to reduce the "free air" hoping to give it a little more thump and see how it goes.
 
Has anyone had to remove or re-attach the seat back cushion on the seat next to the captains chair in the cockpit? I have a 2004 with the seat back that looks like an arch. The top starboard side is starting to pull away from the seat back. Looking between the seat back and the cushion I can see there are some Christmas tree fasteners but I cant see where they go into. I have tried pushing on the cushion but cannot get it to lock back on.
 

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