majoma
Member
Just a comment on the diesel vs gas issue. Here in the San Francisco area there are four 400 sedan bridge for sale all gas and none with diesel. In the Seattle area they are all diesel. Who knows why.
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Hey Zz13, what flooring have you got there? Looks nice
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Went on our first 170 mile trip to key largo and enjoyed. We ran about 22-25 mph. 2300-2500 rpm. We have cat 3116s. The 300 hp version. We burned 180 gallons. About 1.06 gallons per mile. Is this good fuel consumption? Wondering if I should go a bit slower and keep the Rpms at more like 2200 consistently.
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Went on our first 170 mile trip to key largo and enjoyed. We ran about 22-25 mph. 2300-2500 rpm. We have cat 3116s. The 300 hp version. We burned 180 gallons. About 1.06 gallons per mile. Is this good fuel consumption? Wondering if I should go a bit slower and keep the Rpms at more like 2200 consistently.
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Hmmm. I sea trialed that configuration and got no where near that speed and could only get WOT of 2500rpm with the stock 22x24 props. But I did have fuel tanks full and 6 on board. Taking your average as 23.5mph, you burned almost 25 gallons an hour. That seems pretty steep for that engine. Those engines are about a 19-20 gph burn rate at 2400rpm cruise. Almost seems like you were running closer to WOT than the rated 2800rpm. Have you done the prop pitch/WOT calibration to ensure engines don't get overloaded?Went on our first 170 mile trip to key largo and enjoyed. We ran about 22-25 mph. 2300-2500 rpm. We have cat 3116s. The 300 hp version. We burned 180 gallons. About 1.06 gallons per mile. Is this good fuel consumption? Wondering if I should go a bit slower and keep the Rpms at more like 2200 consistently.
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That does it. After almost three years of tolerating it, we have had it with the awkward, bulky bridge table. Going to try it for a while with it removed. We never ate on it anyway. And then there is that brilliant idea of four little depressions they call cup holders. More like cup spillers. Now much easier for guests to walk around and sit on the bridge.
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I'm not sure whether to be impressed at your commitment to try and use the table, or amazed that it took you three years to come to this conclusion.
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We use our table all the time. Breakfast, dinner, drinks at night with friends, card games, etc. I wish it was a little more visually appealing, but we do use it.
Thanks. I just found this thread so I guess I'll follow its instructions: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/30700-How-to-replace-duckbills-on-a-380-vacuflush
On my 2001 400DB the Raymarine 48" Open Array radar has been flexing and while removing the fly bridge enclosure we discovered an approximate 24" crack along the forward edge of the radar fiberglass arch just forward of the Radar Mast.
Here is a video of the crack:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m0qrk4rwxi...03837.mp4?dl=0
Anyone ever see this before? Any suggestions on how to repair this?
Any thoughts are appreciated!
Paul, what do you mean by "reversing the wheels" and how did you get them out? I took my door off today and the wheels are recessed pretty far. Plus my height adjustment screws on each end of the door are rusted solid. I couldn't turn them (going to try PB Blaster next). I did vacuum out the bottom of the door real good, squirted a spot of lithium great on each roller and cleaned the track real well. But no joy in Mudville. It still rumbles and bumbles along.Just a follow-up. I pulled the door apart to find a part number (Home Depot cannot get the parts ). I re-assembled with the old parts , reversing the wheels and the door slides smooth again. I guess I bought some time.
Paul, what do you mean by "reversing the wheels" and how did you get them out? I took my door off today and the wheels are recessed pretty far. Plus my height adjustment screws on each end of the door are rusted solid. I couldn't turn them (going to try PB Blaster next). I did vacuum out the bottom of the door real good, squirted a spot of lithium great on each roller and cleaned the track real well. But no joy in Mudville. It still rumbles and bumbles along.
Thanks Paul. Now I understand. Hopefully I won't snap the heads off the two end screws like I did on the fixed door panel ( was trying to take its horizontal rail off to reseat a messed up factory rubber seal install).Take the lower rail off the door (2 screws) and flip it around.....inside is now the outside. When apart, youll see the screw holding the roller assembly. This took a little time to figure out.
How does one remove the bunk to attack the Vacuflush pump I need to replace duckbills but it seems impossible. it is hiding under the bunk and recessed. Might need a chainsaw. Are there duckbills going into the Y connector? Any
suggestions greatly appreciated.