40 sedan bridge forum

How does one remove the bunk to attack the Vacuflush pump I need to replace duckbills but it seems impossible. it is hiding under the bunk and recessed. Might need a chainsaw. Are there duckbills going into the Y connector? Any
suggestions greatly appreciated.

There are two duck bills one each side of the pump. Two on the entry side and two on the exit side. I also took the hoses off and cleaned them out by hitting them against the dock. There is a film of crud lining the hoses....

Do not take the pump apart if it is working.
 
oceanpearl said:
How does one remove the bunk to attack the Vacuflush pump I need to replace duckbills but it seems impossible. it is hiding under the bunk and recessed. Might need a chainsaw. Are there duckbills going into the Y connector? Any
suggestions greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
A year ago I completely removed the inner bunk to repurpose the room for other uses. As a result I can sit with my feet down in the recess and lean in and work with my hands reaching under.

Anyway, here is the formula I wrote up for a few of my buddies that have our same boat:

1. Disconnect power and ground wires (blade connectors)
2. Remove input hose (hose coming from toilet) and lay on ground - it just needs to be moved out of the way.
3. Remove outlet hose.
4. Unscrew white plastic wing nut at forward pump attachment - this detaches that end of the pump from the tank
5. Remove 4 bolts holding down entire pump assembly to the plastic tank and pull out the assembly (leave the plastic cover on - don’t try to remove it - too hard). Its a 7/16” bolt head.
6. Unscrew the two piece aft fitting and pull out the two duckbills and replace them (instructions are on the duckbill package - note: these two can actually be done quite easily in place after you remove its hose - but you have to remove the pump anyway to do the other side)
7. Unscrew the male to male attachment on the other end and replace both of its duckbills (you will need channel locks to get this one off)
8. Reverse process to install the pump assembly and reconnect the hoses.

While the assembly is out check to make sure nothing has fallen into the bellows compartment and make sure all screws/bolts holding the pump on are completely tight (several of mine were loose). Also, if you ever need to replace the bellows, removing the entire pump assembly in this manner is the best way. If you are adventurous you could remove the 8 small bolts hold the bellows in and pull that cover off to check the bellows.

I was able to hand unscrew all the fittings except for the female to female fitting on the forward side of the pump. Hand tightening is fine because the threads form no part of the sealing. The sealing is done with the end of the fitting pushing against the face of the rubber duckbill.
 
ZZ13 said:
A year ago I completely removed the inner bunk to repurpose the room for other uses. As a result I can sit with my feet down in the recess and lean in and work with my hands reaching under.

Anyway, here is the formula I wrote up for a few of my buddies that have our same boat:

1. Disconnect power and ground wires (blade connectors)
2. Remove input hose (hose coming from toilet) and lay on ground - it just needs to be moved out of the way.
3. Remove outlet hose.
4. Unscrew white plastic wing nut at forward pump attachment - this detaches that end of the pump from the tank
5. Remove 4 bolts holding down entire pump assembly to the plastic tank and pull out the assembly (leave the plastic cover on - don’t try to remove it - too hard). Its a 7/16” bolt head.
6. Unscrew the two piece aft fitting and pull out the two duckbills and replace them (instructions are on the duckbill package - note: these two can actually be done quite easily in place after you remove its hose - but you have to remove the pump anyway to do the other side)
7. Unscrew the male to male attachment on the other end and replace both of its duckbills (you will need channel locks to get this one off)
8. Reverse process to install the pump assembly and reconnect the hoses.

While the assembly is out check to make sure nothing has fallen into the bellows compartment and make sure all screws/bolts holding the pump on are completely tight (several of mine were loose). Also, if you ever need to replace the bellows, removing the entire pump assembly in this manner is the best way. If you are adventurous you could remove the 8 small bolts hold the bellows in and pull that cover off to check the bellows.

I was able to hand unscrew all the fittings except for the female to female fitting on the forward side of the pump. Hand tightening is fine because the threads form no part of the sealing. The sealing is done with the end of the fitting pushing against the face of the rubber duckbill.
Click to expand...

Thank you gentlemen for your input.
Great information and detailed procedure.
I did note today that the guest head pump is much slower in building pressure than the master head. First things first, I will attempt the duck bills.
 
We are getting close to the end of our first summer with our 400. I just finished replacing the nevercold with a vitrifrigo and as a result have much better refrigeration on board. Thanks to all the posters on this topic!!!

My problem now is that the vitrifrigo will run the stbd batteries down to 12v. The old nevercold would not come on below 12.45v. Note that I removed the ice maker.

i have the standard factory battery configuration. 2 pairs of group 31s plus the genny starter battery. The 400 has bow and stern thrusters plus the windlass and these items all seem to run off the stbd pair. Each of the group 31 pairs starts one of the CAT 3126's plus a portion of the house, (although I have reason to believe that the stbd pair does all the house). The group 31s are new this year and are combo starter/house.

Has anyone considered adding another pair of batteries maybe just for the fridge? I noticed that there actually is a 2nd charger in the engine compartment with nothing connected to the output. So I could charge this additional pair while on genny or shore power, just not sure if I could add another alternator circuit.

Any comments would be certainly appreciated. We anchor out a lot.

Dave
 
david_h said:
We are getting close to the end of our first summer with our 400. I just finished replacing the nevercold with a vitrifrigo and as a result have much better refrigeration on board. Thanks to all the posters on this topic!!!

My problem now is that the vitrifrigo will run the stbd batteries down to 12v. The old nevercold would not come on below 12.45v. Note that I removed the ice maker.

i have the standard factory battery configuration. 2 pairs of group 31s plus the genny starter battery. The 400 has bow and stern thrusters plus the windlass and these items all seem to run off the stbd pair. Each of the group 31 pairs starts one of the CAT 3126's plus a portion of the house, (although I have reason to believe that the stbd pair does all the house). The group 31s are new this year and are combo starter/house.

Has anyone considered adding another pair of batteries maybe just for the fridge? I noticed that there actually is a 2nd charger in the engine compartment with nothing connected to the output. So I could charge this additional pair while on genny or shore power, just not sure if I could add another alternator circuit.

Any comments would be certainly appreciated. We anchor out a lot.

Dave
Click to expand...
Its straight forward to figure out where your battery banks connect. Just look at your battery switch panel (or the diagram of it in your owner's manual supplement). All the breakers above the port battery switch are powered by the port battery bank. All the breakers above the stbd battery switch are powered by the stbd battery bank. For the 400DB, the stbd bank does indeed power the entire cabin 12v needs. And all those needs are the 12V switches on the switch panel inside the salon.

Regarding the bow thruster. I don't have one but I have friends with 400DB that do. Their factory installation of the bow thruster include a separate pair of batteries for it installed between the engines and a 24v battery charger for them. Sounds like you have the charger still, but where did the batteries go? Also, I have never seen a stern thruster on a 400DB. That's not factory. Maybe the installer of it hid the bow thruster batteries on you.
 
Thanks Bill. It is great to get confirmation on the stbd bank running the entire house. I would have much preferred a separate house bank. I have confirmed that both thrusters are connected to the main batteries, currently the stbd bank. There are no dedicated thruster batteries. I can follow the heavy powe leads right off the posts and they go to the thrusters.

i will likely consult with a marine electrician to see how best to separate the fridge and add sufficient capacity in an additional bank.

Dave
 
Got a bent port side rudder on my 2001 400SB. I am pulling batteries for storage on the hard and thought I may as well torture myself some more and attempt to pull and replace or straighten it. Anyone know the part number so I can start the search for a possible replacement?
 
ZZ13 said:
Paul, what do you mean by "reversing the wheels" and how did you get them out? I took my door off today and the wheels are recessed pretty far. Plus my height adjustment screws on each end of the door are rusted solid. I couldn't turn them (going to try PB Blaster next). I did vacuum out the bottom of the door real good, squirted a spot of lithium great on each roller and cleaned the track real well. But no joy in Mudville. It still rumbles and bumbles along.
Click to expand...
I got a tip to use this stuff on my door track. He said just spray it on the track and as you use the door the rollers pick it up and any crud in there breaks down and falls off. Plus it lubes as well. I tried it and it made a significant difference. Available at the big hardware chains.
d1de7eaa6c02cb355b802b200886a7c8.jpg



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I joined the club! Closed and got my new 400DB back to home port in Hilton Head. Special thanks to Bill (ZZ13) for all the maintenance he helped me with. The man can fit in nearly every nook and cranny. He was also a great co captain helping me bring the boat up from South FT Laurderdale!
We did some maintain last weekend and then brought "Sea Candy" north last week. We had a great trip and experienced lots of situations. Had a storm for about an hour one afternoon docking in heavy winds, fog one morning where you could barely see the front bow rail, we did some offshore but mostly ICW. She ran between 19-26 mph @ 2100 depending on current. Cruised at 8-11 @ 1000 and reached 2625 @ WOT for the home stretch. I will post some pictures soon.
 
Congrats! Glad the trip went well! I have the same engines and going through much of the same experience as you so let's keep in touch!

Josh


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Last edited:
Ray O said:
I joined the club! Closed and got my new 400DB back to home port in Hilton Head. Special thanks to Bill (ZZ13) for all the maintenance he helped me with. The man can fit in nearly every nook and cranny. He was also a great co captain helping me bring the boat up from South FT Laurderdale!
We did some maintain last weekend and then brought "Sea Candy" north last week. We had a great trip and experienced lots of situations. Had a storm for about an hour one afternoon docking in heavy winds, fog one morning where you could barely see the front bow rail, we did some offshore but mostly ICW. She ran between 19-26 mph @ 2100 depending on current. Cruised at 8-11 @ 1000 and reached 2625 @ WOT for the home stretch. I will post some pictures soon.
Click to expand...

Congrats on the new boat!!! Can't wait to see pics.
 
Treb bel (with galley floor leak)
Have you removed the fridge. Once removed you can access the tap assembly for the v-berth shower. It also provides limited access to view index the galley floor and behind don't the galley sink. You might spot something.

Dave
 
Last edited:
Have someone replaced the Glass Door Roller Assembly? I am looking to buy the door Roller assembly? Any idea where I can get it?
Thanks
 
Garciam222 said:
Have someone replaced the Glass Door Roller Assembly? I am looking to buy the door Roller assembly? Any idea where I can get it?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Not yet, but is on my list too. I have "extended" the roller life a little by reversing the rolers (left becomes right....).

I know others are at a point of replacement, so he who replaces and shares the information first wins!
 
PMC said:
Not yet, but is on my list too. I have "extended" the roller life a little by reversing the rolers (left becomes right....).

I know others are at a point of replacement, so he who replaces and shares the information first wins!
Click to expand...
My theory is that gravity pulls the door aft and has the roller wheel making contact on the forward inner edge. So that has worn away over time and the aft inner edge is not worn. So flipping them essentially put a non worn edge against the track. You might get a good ten years out of that if the theory is correct.


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FeLizDream said:
My boat is in the boat yard for bottom paint and maintenance
c37ec2e96725c8ff512d01733b44dada.jpg



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Click to expand...

That's a good looking ride..!! If can just figure out why mines won't stop overheating in the water I'll be ready to paint


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I'd like to see pictures of your Sea Ray 400 sedan Bridge
If you like your boat, please post the best picture you have
I already started with mine
I just did all maintenance and bottom paint, I had to change the stuffing pack for rudders
Ready to go back to Marco Island Marina Yacht Club



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FeLizDream said:
I'd like to see pictures of your Sea Ray 400 sedan Bridge
If you like your boat, please post the best picture you have
I already started with mine

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Click to expand...

I happen to like this one...
IMG_4975.jpg
 
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