40 sedan bridge forum

NaughtyDog said:
The three sensors are to measure different levels in the tank (empty, 1/2, & full) and relay the readings to both heads and the main panel. I didn't know before "diving in" whether they were gunked up or defunct. I was pretty relieved that they operated properly once I got them cleaned up. Easy enough to test while they were out of the tank. I left them hooked up and turned on the head system then had the admiral check the panel as I moved the floats. If you remove the floats (they are held on by a small plastic C-clip) make sure you put them back on the right way up or they won't read properly. I think there is a small magnet in the float. Also the bottom/longest sensor for the "Empty" indicator goes on the opposite way then the other two. Read that on CSR somewhere and it was helpful. Flush the tank a few times before you tackle the job. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Well, it took all season to get to this job, but I finally just did it. After cleaning them up, I got all 3 sensors to work. Thanks for the tip about the "empty" indicator needing to go on the opposite way. That was a big help (as I initially had it on backwards). Not a fun job by any means, and access is terrible. Having long skinny arms helped me, but it still wasn't easy to get them out.
 
Here's a pic of the sensors.
80a974e2d0d835ff5b551c6420878801.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
cwiert said:
Well, it took all season to get to this job, but I finally just did it. After cleaning them up, I got all 3 sensors to work. Thanks for the tip about the "empty" indicator needing to go on the opposite way. That was a big help (as I initially had it on backwards). Not a fun job by any means, and access is terrible. Having long skinny arms helped me, but it still wasn't easy to get them out.
Click to expand...

This is a task that I have to perform. Did you mark and cut the wires prior to removal and cleaning? When I looked it appeared that this was the only way to remove the sensors? I appreciate your input on this, thanks!
 
randerson said:
This is a task that I have to perform. Did you mark and cut the wires prior to removal and cleaning? When I looked it appeared that this was the only way to remove the sensors? I appreciate your input on this, thanks!
Click to expand...

No, I didn't have to remove or disconnect any wires. All I did was remove the little plastic clip at the end, slide off the plastic float, and clean everything with some Spray 9. I think that there must be magnets in the float that trigger the switch when it goes up and down. The floats just need to be cleaned up so they slide freely again. It would be a 5 minute job if there was better access.

But I did have to cut a zip tie that was holding the wires in place. That will give you enough slack to get the sensors out.
 
cwiert said:
No, I didn't have to remove or disconnect any wires. All I did was remove the little plastic clip at the end, slide off the plastic float, and clean everything with some Spray 9. I think that there must be magnets in the float that trigger the switch when it goes up and down. The floats just need to be cleaned up so they slide freely again. It would be a 5 minute job if there was better access.

But I did have to cut a zip tie that was holding the wires in place. That will give you enough slack to get the sensors out.
Click to expand...


That makes sense, thanks. Does the entire assembly that holds the sensors slide or screw out of the holding tank? It appears to me that it screws out which twists the wires?
 
randerson said:
That makes sense, thanks. Does the entire assembly that holds the sensors slide or screw out of the holding tank? It appears to me that it screws out which twists the wires?
Click to expand...

It screws out of the holding tank, so yes, you need to be careful not to twist the wires. THere's enough slack in the wires that I was able to raise the wires up while I was unscrewing it so the wires wouldn't get wrapped up on the sensor assembly. You'll need to remove the vent hose first, however.
 
I am considering getting the fire sale Garmin 8212 since it's such a good price. It's 13"x10". I think I can get it to work where the Rl80c is with some spacing out to get it above the recessed area. Has anyone put that exact model there?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi, Bill

where is that Fire sale?

can you share the link

i am thinking to upgrade my GPS also
Thank you'
'
ZZ13 said:
I am considering getting the fire sale Garmin 8212 since it's such a good price. It's 13"x10". I think I can get it to work where the Rl80c is with some spacing out to get it above the recessed area. Has anyone put that exact model there?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
Bill, I ordered the 8212 from BOE. Should be delivered tomorrow. The overall width is 13" by 9.7 tall. I am mounting mine in place of my old pathfinder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mQUIET,
Can you share a picture after you mount it

Feliz Dream


mquiet said:
Bill, I ordered the 8212 from BOE. Should be delivered tomorrow. The overall width is 13" by 9.7 tall. I am mounting mine in place of my old pathfinder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
 
Hello Gentlemen,
I have been on CSR since 2007 when I began research for my 280DA. I have since moved to a 320DA but have recently gotten the go ahead from the "Ministry of Finance" to begin the research process on a 400DB. So far i have read the first 130 pages of this thread (slow couple of shifts at the fire house) and I have gotten a tremendous amount of notes on all of your experiences. I'd also like to say I am incredibly amazed at the amount of knowlege amongst the 400 owners here, I am truly in awe. Trying to get my head around future cost of operation and not being too terribly mechanically inclined I was wondering if anyone had a comprehensive list of the yearly "Must Do's". I have a 16 year history with Sea Ray of Cincinnati and likely plan to continue to use their service department as needed. I understand that this question may be too engine specific but I can tell you that I am looking and leaning towards the Cummins package. I will continue my research and continue to rea the remainder of this thread and the many many associated threads. Thanks in advance and I am really looking forward to the 400DB experience
 
You will love the 400DB. Some of the yearly must do's are:
Oil changes and filters (unlike gas engines the diesels take about 16 gals of oil)
Water pump impellors (engine as well as genny)
Fuel filters (racors and secondary's)
Zinc's (don't forget the multiple pencil zinc's)
Clean out your intakes
I am sure others will post more. I have a very affordable well kept 400 for sale. I don't have a Clue how you would get it to Ohio.
 
mjmason1 said:
You will love the 400DB. Some of the yearly must do's are:
Oil changes and filters (unlike gas engines the diesels take about 16 gals of oil)
Water pump impellors (engine as well as genny)
Fuel filters (racors and secondary's)
Zinc's (don't forget the multiple pencil zinc's)
Clean out your intakes
I am sure others will post more. I have a very affordable well kept 400 for sale. I don't have a Clue how you would get it to Ohio.
Click to expand...

16 gallons of oil!?!
are you spilling a lot? Lol. J/k.
Somehow I manage to get by with "only" 11-12 gals.
 
david_h said:
We are getting close to the end of our first summer with our 400. I just finished replacing the nevercold with a vitrifrigo and as a result have much better refrigeration on board. Thanks to all the posters on this topic!!!

My problem now is that the vitrifrigo will run the stbd batteries down to 12v. The old nevercold would not come on below 12.45v. Note that I removed the ice maker.

i have the standard factory battery configuration. 2 pairs of group 31s plus the genny starter battery. The 400 has bow and stern thrusters plus the windlass and these items all seem to run off the stbd pair. Each of the group 31 pairs starts one of the CAT 3126's plus a portion of the house, (although I have reason to believe that the stbd pair does all the house). The group 31s are new this year and are combo starter/house.

Has anyone considered adding another pair of batteries maybe just for the fridge? I noticed that there actually is a 2nd charger in the engine compartment with nothing connected to the output. So I could charge this additional pair while on genny or shore power, just not sure if I could add another alternator circuit.

Any comments would be certainly appreciated. We anchor out a lot.

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave,
I am looking to replace my dead norcold in immediate future. I am a liveaboard on my 400DB, how is the sound level and overall performance of the new fridge? How about direct fit? Any special needs in getting it in/out of the boat?
Thank you,
Stephen


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok, so i have completed reading this entire thread and picked up tons of useful information and for that I am thankful. Now, not really what I don't know besides everything, is there any links you all can post to threads that might be helpful in my 400DB research? Such as links to threads on the Cummins or Cats? Or anything else you might think would be worth the read? Thanks guys, I have enjoyed this thread so far
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,118
Messages
1,426,521
Members
61,035
Latest member
Lukerney
Back
Top