majoma
Member
Just a comment on the diesel vs gas issue. Here in the San Francisco area there are four 400 sedan bridge for sale all gas and none with diesel. In the Seattle area they are all diesel. Who knows why.
40 sedan bridge forum
- Thread starter Caseclosed
- Start date
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
That does it. After almost three years of tolerating it, we have had it with the awkward, bulky bridge table. Going to try it for a while with it removed. We never ate on it anyway. And then there is that brilliant idea of four little depressions they call cup holders. More like cup spillers. Now much easier for guests to walk around and sit on the bridge.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
Shayne Epstein
New Member
Went on our first 170 mile trip to key largo and enjoyed. We ran about 22-25 mph. 2300-2500 rpm. We have cat 3116s. The 300 hp version. We burned 180 gallons. About 1.06 gallons per mile. Is this good fuel consumption? Wondering if I should go a bit slower and keep the Rpms at more like 2200 consistently.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mquiet
Well-Known Member
ZZ, I hate that table as well on our 480. I was thinking about designing a table with fold up sides so people could get around.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Prosideus
Active Member
- Jun 5, 2012
- 635
- Boat Info
- 1995 220 BR Signature
Prior Boat:
400 Sedan Bridge 1996 Cats 3116
- Engines
- Mercruiser 5.7
Shayne, I have the same as you. That number is a great number. I wouldn't slow down. The 2400-2450 range is a great cruising speed for the engines. We have one of the most fuel efficient diesels. Post some pics!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like you're doing a little better than me, and I have the 350HP 3116s. I cruise at 2300-2400 RPM, and I average 18-20 knots (21-23 mph).
I haven't figured out fuel consumption yet, however. Roughly speaking, I just filled up the tanks and went on a 4.5 hour round trip where I burned 1/4 tank of fuel (in each tank). That's 44/gal each tank. Comes out to just under 20 gal/hour. Not very scientific, but that's all I've got.
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
Hmmm. I sea trialed that configuration and got no where near that speed and could only get WOT of 2500rpm with the stock 22x24 props. But I did have fuel tanks full and 6 on board. Taking your average as 23.5mph, you burned almost 25 gallons an hour. That seems pretty steep for that engine. Those engines are about a 19-20 gph burn rate at 2400rpm cruise. Almost seems like you were running closer to WOT than the rated 2800rpm. Have you done the prop pitch/WOT calibration to ensure engines don't get overloaded?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
scooper321
Well-Known Member
That does it. After almost three years of tolerating it, we have had it with the awkward, bulky bridge table. Going to try it for a while with it removed. We never ate on it anyway. And then there is that brilliant idea of four little depressions they call cup holders. More like cup spillers. Now much easier for guests to walk around and sit on the bridge.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm not sure whether to be impressed at your commitment to try and use the table, or amazed that it took you three years to come to this conclusion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We use our table all the time. Breakfast, dinner, drinks at night with friends, card games, etc. I wish it was a little more visually appealing, but we do use it.
scooper321
Well-Known Member
Yep, so do I on my express cruiser (320DA). But I tend to stow it when I'm going out on the hook for a day in the water. It's hard to navigate around the deck with the table up. So it's usually stowed...
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
I just replaced the master duckbills. You do have to remove the pump assembly to get at the two inlet duckbills. Pretty fiddly job. It was made easier for me since I don't have the bunk installed anymore. I did find one pump bolt had vibrated off and fallen into the bellows area. Don't bother trying to first remove the plastic pump cover. Just leave it on. It doesn't get in the way and those little screws are impossible to work with by feel. Here are some pics.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
truk911
Member
- Jun 16, 2014
- 86
- Boat Info
- 2001 Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge
1999 Zodiac YL380DL
- Engines
- Cummins 6CTA 8.3M 430 HP Diesels
To follow up on this issue, I contacted Sea Ray and sent them a bunch of pictures and this video. They explained to me that it is not a common occurrence, but it appears the seam on the arch had failed. After discussing this issue with them and sending the same pictures and video to our local Sea Ray Dealer, B & E Marine they came up with an action plan to facilitate the repairs.
I took the boat over to B & E Marine in Michigan City, IN (a nice 37 mile cruise from Chicago) on July 5th with the plan to pickup the boat on July 19th. B & E pulled the arch and brought it into their fiberglass repair facility. They fixed the seam and glassed in new plywood supports to stiffen the top of the arch and put everything back together. Good as new. We left on July 27th for a 19 day trip to Mackinac Island and gave the new arch a good test in 3-4 footers, the arch didn't budge. Not only did B & E meet the 2 week deadline, they did it under budget. Sea Ray also stepped up to the plate with a Good Will contribution to help cover some of the cost of the repairs! We are so happy with the service for B & E Marine in Michigan City and the support from Sea Ray has been great! This experience truly reinforces our decision to buy a Sea Ray!
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
Paul, what do you mean by "reversing the wheels" and how did you get them out? I took my door off today and the wheels are recessed pretty far. Plus my height adjustment screws on each end of the door are rusted solid. I couldn't turn them (going to try PB Blaster next). I did vacuum out the bottom of the door real good, squirted a spot of lithium great on each roller and cleaned the track real well. But no joy in Mudville. It still rumbles and bumbles along.
PMC
Well-Known Member
Take the lower rail off the door (2 screws) and flip it around.....inside is now the outside. When apart, youll see the screw holding the roller assembly. This took a little time to figure out.
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
Thanks Paul. Now I understand. Hopefully I won't snap the heads off the two end screws like I did on the fixed door panel ( was trying to take its horizontal rail off to reseat a messed up factory rubber seal install).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
DavidBukstel
Member
- Sep 2, 2014
- 61
- Boat Info
- 1999 400 Sedan Bridge 3 Staterooms
- Engines
- Caterpillar 3126 Mechanical 420hp
Generator Repair Day. I have a 1999 Sea Ray Sedan Bridge 400 with CAT 3126 diesels and a Westerbeke 8.0BTD generator. I discovered that the oil pans on the Westerbeke tend to rust so, after ordering a new pan and gasket ($500 combined), yesterday the genny was lifted out, pan and water pump replaced and back into the boat for installation today. About 11 hours of work for 1 person (my highly experienced mechanic and friend) with only about 5 hours on the A frame out of the engine room. I'll try to post a picture or so if I can figure out how to shrink the file size.
oceanpearl
Member
- Aug 20, 2008
- 168
- Boat Info
- 400DB Searay 2001/ Sold
240 Searay Sundeck 2008
- Engines
- 454 7.4 MPI Horozons
5.7 Mercruiser 300MPI
How does one remove the bunk to attack the Vacuflush pump I need to replace duckbills but it seems impossible. it is hiding under the bunk and recessed. Might need a chainsaw. Are there duckbills going into the Y connector? Any
suggestions greatly appreciated.
suggestions greatly appreciated.
Last edited:
Prosideus
Active Member
- Jun 5, 2012
- 635
- Boat Info
- 1995 220 BR Signature
Prior Boat:
400 Sedan Bridge 1996 Cats 3116
- Engines
- Mercruiser 5.7
OP,
I remove the cushion and the struts (they just get in the way. I use the crossmember me for the full bunk to prop open the hatch. Then with both access panels removed from the floor, I straddle the bunk support wall and then it is upside down work to reach in and do the replacements. Definitely a tough job, but it gets easier once you've done it.
The easiest way I have found is to remove the screws from the base of the pumps so they are free. The screws behind the master head pump are the hardest.
Flush plenty of warm water through the system before you begin. Have some towels down in the collection area of the bilge because it will will come out.
Good luck.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
