- Jun 5, 2016
- 5,641
- Boat Info
- 410 Sundancer
2001
12" Axiom and 9" Axiom+ MFD
- Engines
- Cat 3126 V-Drives
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You will want a sub in the main cabin; bridge channels 5 and 6 for that.
I think the two zones in the cockpit is a good idea so you can tailor the sound and volume between behind and at the helm.
Remotes, wifi, or Bluetooth via smart phone?
@Wylie_Tunes I was hoping you would chime in.Before you button up this system, I would consider a different configuration.
Put the 4 arch speakers and the 2 floor speakers all on the same zone. As it is, you will likely find that the arch speakers dominate due to their positional advantage. If you turn them down for this reason, you will also be turning down the woofer. Put them all on the same zone, then gain-balance between the arch speakers with the floor speakers. Now, when you turn them up or down, the woofer's ratio to all 6, stays they same.
Are the v-birth and cabin pairs that far apart that it justifies each pair on their own zone? If one zone would work, then id do this;
Use that remaining zone for you woofer, rather then dedicated zone-1 woofer output. This makes the woofer is own independent zone thats only tied to the master volume v's tied to the zone-1 level first. This allows you to add a little more or less woofer, regardless of zone-1's level.
The zone configuration would not need to change how any speaker outputs are wired, its simply the input configuration. So you could wire a pair of cabin to chnl 1 and a pair to chnl 2 and wire each to their own chnl using 1-4.
The cool thing about my suggested configuration, it does not require any speaker rewiring. It only involves moving some RCA at the back of the head unit or setting in the DSP app.
Let me clarify, my suggested configuration does not require any re-wiring of speakers v's your original proposed configuration. Just a couple tweaks to take the cabin from 2 zones to 1 and the cockpit from 2 zones to 1 and put the woofer on one of the now open zones. To compare the function of the two different configurations, is literally, that easy.Considering a complete rewire of everything. Existing speaker wire is corroded up under the insulation as far as I can trace it and the power wire was set up for much smaller amps. I already pulled new RCA cables able to accomodate all 4 zones with a L/R/Sub and a couple spares.
The factory power wire for the old Clarion APA4204 (4x 50W) was #8, and that was downstream from the main distribution panel which which was supposed to be #2 from the main engine room breaker. Even moving the amps closer to the batteries is going to take some much bigger wire.
This is what I think you are proposing.Let me clarify, my suggested configuration does not require any re-wiring of speakers v's your original proposed configuration. Just a couple tweaks to take the cabin from 2 zones to 1 and the cockpit from 2 zones to 1 and put the woofer on one of the now open zones. To compare the function of the two different configurations, is literally, that easy.
Looking at moving to a 12" much more powerful version. Not sure I want to cut a bunch more holes in every flat panel of the boat. But for now baby steps.I would consider another sub….. I have one at the helm under the captains chair and one in the back….. you paid for it…. Mine as well enjoy it while underway
I would normally agree, but with proper power distribution and tuning, two subs can surely be accommodating.Looking at moving to a 12" much more powerful version. Not sure I want to cut a bunch more holes in every flat panel of the boat. But for now baby steps.
Practice on the hole you cant see......then you will be good to go on the second.....you are not going to go back later and make another hole and wire it at a later dateNot sure I want to cut a bunch more holes in every flat panel of the boat. But for now baby steps.
I would normally agree, but with proper power distribution and tuning, two subs can surely be accommodating.
In my cart for home. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/nakami...arc-and-sse-max-black/6488899.p?skuId=6488899
Not that it would effect connectivity (unless your "rear" sub is very far back) but the sub's should be left and right, not front and rear. See section 2.0.I have this for the media room. Not thrilled with it. When everything connect's it's great. But the rear sub's and surround channels constantly disconnect and also crackle with voice. Yes, everything is tuned correctly
Not that it would effect connectivity (unless your "rear" sub is very far back) but the sub's should be left and right, not front and rear. See section 2.0.
https://www.helpdesk.nakamichi-usa.com/_files/ugd/757848_b379a2100e2140d7b8b6324d000f2dc6.pdf
Yep, I'm on the fence with that exact decision. Not to mention that syst. was $300.00 less last weekend.Yes, rear sub's was plural. Meaning rear, not by the tv, but by the seating and yes left and right. Still they get distorted at times from interference (maybe?) not sure but it takes a few minutes to smooth out. Also don't always turn on. I only mention this because at that price there may be better options like old school receiver and wired speakers.