Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Its down to Bruce or the Rocna Vulcan (no hoop). I do like the bling of the stainless! The reviews are saying the Vulcan (Rocna) is good in sand/clay/mud/weeds, which is 95% of what I anchor in. Occasionally up north its rock, but unless you grab a crack, nothing is really good in rock.

I bought mine from a guy on Kijiji that imports them from China. I just checked and I think he is still selling them, although it may be someone else. His add says 10Kg, but when I met him he brought along other sizes. He also had stainless delta style plow anchors, but he had not brought the larger size so I went with the Bruce. Its a nicely polished anchor that looks and works nice.
Here is a link:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-boat-w...rice-boat-anchor-bruce-style-10-kg/1098637154

And here is a picture of the boat with the anchor installed.

hh
707b46e51a8822fb33e34a3a84fbf4c4.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hello All,
I was wondering if this is a general Sea Ray issue, or maybe my boat is odd. My starboard fuel tank empties quicker than my port tank. Not sure if it might be a guage thing ?. I have only owned the boat a few years, but it has done this since I got it. When both tanks are at lets say 1/4 tank. I will add 30 gallons to port and 40 gallons to starboard. The gauges will then go up with the starboard being higher. Then after running the boat back to when port tank shows 1/4 tank again, the starboard tank is considerably less. I tried this without using genny. Was wondering if hose lengths maybe doing something. Both motors seem to run well and RPMs are always close. Any info greatly appreciated.
 
Same issue here and two things I've learned.

1. The gennie pulls from the stbd tank. Figure a gallon or so per hour. It will drain faster over time.

2. In general, fuel gauges are a pathetic indicator of how much fuel is in the tank. Fuel flow indicators are expensive but depending on how you use the boat, may be worth it. The down side is you may find out your most effecient cruise is at WOT!!!
 
My Stbd side uses 15-20% more fuel. It's not the Gen as it is still only runs randomly (going to swap fuel shutouff solenoid, don't know what else is keeping if from getting fuel some times not others) so rarely gets the chance to use. Last trip w/ no Gen use Stbd tank took 80 gallons to refill port 65, both were topped just before departure. The stbd motor to match RPM also requires higher throttle, they are matched at the carbs so helm differences are carb differences too. I've also noticed at idle stbd has more thrust, both fwd and reverse. I've come to the conclusion the props must not be matched so am probably going to have both labbed over the winter. - Greg
 
My Stbd side uses 15-20% more fuel. It's not the Gen as it is still only runs randomly (going to swap fuel shutouff solenoid, don't know what else is keeping if from getting fuel some times not others) so rarely gets the chance to use. Last trip w/ no Gen use Stbd tank took 80 gallons to refill port 65, both were topped just before departure. The stbd motor to match RPM also requires higher throttle, they are matched at the carbs so helm differences are carb differences too. I've also noticed at idle stbd has more thrust, both fwd and reverse. I've come to the conclusion the props must not be matched so am probably going to have both labbed over the winter. - Greg

You wouldn't be the first to have mismatched props.
 
Hi Everyone!
I'm looking to see if anyone has a factory cradle for their 95-99 330 dancer.
I was hoping to purchase a used one but currently have had no luck finding
one in my area. I'm curious if anyone that might own one could aid me in
providing some dimensions so I can just build one. Any help would be
greatly appreciated !!! I seem to see most of the postings but have come
to realize for some reason I dont always get notification. Feel free to email
me jcover111@gmail.com if you can help!

Have a great Labor Day !
John
 
Has anyone tried to run a cable from bilge up to the tv closet?
I need run a new rg6 and wondering how to do it.
 
It's possible. I ran RG6 from the Shore Cable Outlet on the port side down behind the head stall, along the floor of the head cabinet with the other wiring, behind the fridge, behind the sink, and into the bottom of the closet stack.

Removing the fridge helped a lot, but also made me cry when I saw all of the wasted space behind the fridge/stove/sink area. I did end up drilling through the back corner of a shelf in the closet to snake the wire up to the TV cubby hole.
 
Removing the fridge helped a lot, but also made me cry when I saw all of the wasted space behind the fridge/stove/sink area. I did end up drilling through the back corner of a shelf in the closet to snake the wire up to the TV cubby hole.

Thats why you can replace the OEM Norcold 3cu ft fridge with a much larger one (I installed a 5.4 cu ft Nova Kool) and pick up an enormous increase in capacity.
 
I was hoping to slide a pvc pipe up there for a conduit.
 
Thats why you can replace the OEM Norcold 3cu ft fridge with a much larger one (I installed a 5.4 cu ft Nova Kool) and pick up an enormous increase in capacity.
Can you post a link to the 5.4 cu fridge, sounds like a great idea. Did the fridge fit fine with no special modifcations?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
Hoping this is why my windlass is just clicking and not spinning
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442490323.637897.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1442490394.005205.jpg

Just a wee bit corroded

Does anyone know if these solenoids come apart to be cleaned?
 
I had endless issues with blown fuses and power drain in my winch after purchasing the boat ... finally stripped out the windlass body... I suspect it had never been out for the life of the boat ... took literally 7 or 8 hours to slowly drive the gypsy shaft up through the body from inside the anchor well .. Credit to Lofrans quality as the gears and motor were in perfect condition despite severe rust to the casing ... rebuilt with new seals and bearings and also stripped down the solenoids and cleaned everything back ... all works perfectly now! I have repaired several solenoids now where some have seized up with the plastic piston inside melting slightly and after honing all the working parts smooth ... rebuilt and as good as new ... the bottom metal casing can be pried open to access the internals if you have some spare time to work on them!
 
Thanks for reply. I did try to pry open last night. But don't see how anything comes out. It is like those posts are stuck and that wound mass inside is inside. I sprayed the heck out of it with electrical cleaner. Going to try to take to boat today and see if that helped.
 
I have a '92 330 with the "Good brand " rope only windlass, does anyone know if it will work with 8 Plait line, or if I should stick with 3 strand. My old line is stiff, worn, and having trouble retrieving.

Thanks
 
Well I got it to work, cleaned solenoid so really good and have to give a couple of love taps to motor but she spins now.
i took boat out to deep water and ran windlass up and down a few times. Seems better now.
need to try to spray coat with something on those components. It's just dripping wet in there. Any ideas of what I could use to protect and dissipate moisture?
 
Re: Cup holder in 97 330 da

Where did you find this cup holder and what is the brand? Really like the function and looks of this.
 
Re: Cup holder in 97 330 da

Where did you find this cup holder and what is the brand? Really like the function and looks of this.

Edson brand. I also installed one on the starboard side to the right of the chart holder. Its great for drinks and to hold the handheld backup VHF radio. You can see it in the second picture below.

I like the ones with the gap in so they hold mugs with handles.
DrinkHolder.jpg


60c4d77625e2f80fbb0088861a07b10b.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,186
Messages
1,428,173
Members
61,097
Latest member
Mdeluca407
Back
Top