Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Thanks I was looking all over for that switch but I was only on the the boat for about an hour total when I first saw it three weeks ago. I had it trucked to my winter yard yesterday but won't be back in town to see the boat for another week. First thing I'm going to do is try that switch.
 
It was nice to finally spend some fun time on her today instead of working on her
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1440322455.504222.jpg
 
Spent the last twelve days cleaning out the gas and water tanks, touring the San Juan Islands, and Puget Sound. We burned through 325 gallons of gas and a couple hundred gallons of water.
Anyway, the engines never skipped a beat, and my wife and cousin went through plenty of water.
 
Anyone know what model Westerbeke generator my 97 would have? I need to order some parts and apparently there are a few different 7.5 models.
 
Anyone know what model Westerbeke generator my 97 would have? I need to order some parts and apparently there are a few different 7.5 models.
Are you sure the generator is 7.5 KW. I didn't think Sea Ray offered anything that big in the 330. It all 4-5KW

My '99 has a Westerbeke 4.5KW BCGTC
 
Anyone know what model Westerbeke generator my 97 would have? I need to order some parts and apparently there are a few different 7.5 models.

What parts and where from. W'beke does not own their market if you know where/what to look for.

Here is a start.

http://www.fgpstore.com/default.asp
 
Thanks David, I just need an impeller. Saving myself the trip to the boat tonight to get the model number.
 
Thanks everyone. I went down last night. I have the 4.5BCG I wonder what the "A" denotes?


While I'm here, I have more silly questions. I want to replace my stereo remote with the new Kenwood one. I am going to put it where the existing Clarion remote it. Of course, I need to get to the back of it. how the heck to I pop off the radar display?




And is this a standard fitting? I have a small leak at this 90.

 
Your leak may be that the plastic tube worked its way out of the fitting enough to cause a drip. Not uncommon. Try pushing in the pipe and see if that works.

To answer your specific question, Yes.... It is a standard "Guest" (company name) fitting. Expensive for a piece of plastic. As mine leaked / broke, I've changed them out with "Shark Bite" fittings. Roughly the same price but they are metal and to me, easier to work with. Plus, they are a standard inventory item at HD and Lowes.

HTH
 
Molson, it might be easier to remove your VHF radio to gain access to the Clarion Remote.
 
Thanks guys, I was thinking that too Pete. the fun part will be fishing the wire back to the cabinet.
 
Thanks guys, I was thinking that too Pete. the fun part will be fishing the wire back to the cabinet.

If you don't have one, get yourself a plastic electrical fish. I found that fishing from inside the aft cabin closet up by the large wire loom is the easiest way to get into the area behind the dash. You will need to remove the lower dash panel as well. Its not too bad. I ran wiring when I installed a remote spot light on the pulpit back through all of those cabinets so its possible, but "fiddly". A few years ago I replaced my original Clarion head unit with a CMD5, which was the last model to use the original clarion remote so I did not have to replace the OEM one. If I was to do it today, I would go with a wireless remote and a bluetooth stereo. The stock location of that Clarion remote on our 330's is goofy. It should be up higher somewhere.
 
I agree. I put a Kenwood marine unit in with BT. I can control most from my phone in BT mode, but if I want to listen to the radio I need to go downstairs, a bit of a pain. I do have a wire fish, sure is handy. I was hoping I can feed the new one by taping it to the old one and pulling it through.
 
I upgraded the original Clarion with a CMD7 a few years ago. It used a new wire remote with LCD display. I left the original remote wire in place as it was zip tied to a bunch of other wires.

Running a new wire can be done, but you will have to disassemble the aft locker and part of the dash to run the wire.
 
I upgraded the original Clarion with a CMD7 a few years ago. It used a new wire remote with LCD display. I left the original remote wire in place as it was zip tied to a bunch of other wires.

Running a new wire can be done, but you will have to disassemble the aft locker and part of the dash to run the wire.

The remote I have only needs one wire to the head unit, the power, ground and illumination can be taken from the dash. The old clarion remote wire I'll re purpose by cutting the ends off and using one of the wires.
 
Ok, tried to search on this question but cant seem to find a good answer. Thought I'd throw it up in the 330 thread to get some specifics.
My main bilge pump was no working. I bought a new Rule pump to replace it. As I contorted myself to remove the old pump. I seen the old pump is locked up. took apart and its junk. Now back to installing new. Before I wedged myself in for reentry, I wired the new pump only to find it doesn't turn on. Put it directly to battery and she spins. Tried turning switch on at helm. Still nothing. I saw a breaker panel under the Port side, nothing popped. Is there another fuse inline I am missing and any guesses where?
My boat is a 1992
 
As far as I know on my 1994, which should be similar, the only safety for the two bilge pump circuits are the breakers on the 12VDC breaker panel in the battery well to port of the helm bench. I'm in the same situation, my main bilge pump died last time out, so will be replacing it and the switch this weekend (if I can fold myself enough to get down to it). I'm also planning to add a terminal strip for all the connections for easier monitoring and add a relay so the manual/secondary pump switch will turn on both pumps but keep each pump on it's own DC feed.-greg
 

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