OFFICIAL 250 DANCER THREAD

[tsailml]

Re: OFFICIAL 250 DANCER THREAD, ?leaking fuel tank despite of normal presure testing

Quick update: went to another marine mechanic service and they correctly diagnosed the fuel/oil/gunk from the bow was from when the old engine was being replaced recently. There has been no problem since they cleaned up the bilge properly by draining the contents from the bow. It goes to show how an opinion of the previous mechanic could have cost me at least an extra $4k to take out/replace a fuel tank that wasn't even leaking. And yes, of course he charged me for his time/misdiagnosis before I got a second opinion.

 

[Phlorida]

I removed the water tank today because the platform it sits on that covers the fuel tank is coming apart. As well built as the rest of the boat is that platform is poor quality and a poor design. I have an early model of the 95-98 DA so hopefully they changed it after mine was made. The engine compartment is so transformed with the tank out I am considering putting a much smaller tank back in. It is a 20 gallon tank that I normally keep about a quarter full and I've never inadvertently run out. I am considering a 6 or 9 gallon replacement. Thoughts? Bad idea?

 

[mwph]

We use way too much water so I could not downsize. My tank is not over the fuel tank so visualizing it there is a mind bender. As for replacing it with a smaller one, I say go for it. As long as your usage/needs won't suffer. I don't think resale is in your immediate future..........is it?

 

[Phlorida]

I suppose that resale is my biggest issue and I am pursuing other boat options but I doubt that it will be anytime soon. If other users come back with your opinion I will likely put the 20 gallon tank back in. We don't overnight in our boat nor do we use the reservoir for drinking water. I'll take a picture with the platform out, it is an amazing amount of space to access the engine area with it out. I feel as though if the water tank didn't extend beyond the forward engine compartment edge it would really enhance the ability to access to the engine. My primary goal in this project is to reinforce the platform as it is inches from the pulley belts. The current tank is 16" deep and I feel like reducing that to 12" or less would make a lot of difference, I believe that if you removed the same platform you would see the rear 25% of the fuel tank and the sender.

Your feedback was exactly what I was looking for.

 

[jclack]

Has anyone seen/tried one of these drink holders as replacements for the OEM cockpit drink holder?

Here's the standard size (not sure of dimensions; ~16" wide):

Here's the large size (19x5x3.5):

Seems like it'd be pretty easy to screw these into the existing holes.

Jim

 

[mwph]

I am one of the few that like the OEM cup holders. If I were to upgrade in any way I would go with the chrome "rings". If your gel coated areas are white (mine are not), then I guess those would look ok and if it's the little storage bin you are after then, well, there ya go.

As for screwing them in, I thought that's what the suction cups were for. Maybe I'm missing something?

 

[jpl2407]

Quick question to fellow 250DA owners now that I have recovered from the $2200 haul out, winterisation and storage bill, not to mention the $1700 bill to replace the city water pressure regulator, prop trim sender and bellows . My bilge pump does not appear to work off the cockpit switch. It works just fine automatically, I just don't seem to be able to manually run the pump, any ideas would be great,

regards

jake.

 

[alwhite00]

Wow, big $$$ how much was just the winterization?

 

[jclack]

Wow, big $$$ how much was just the winterization?

Just for comparison's sake, we did our own winterization of the RV-like components in the boat - all water lines, sink, shower, shower sump, etc. The mechanics winterized the engine/drive and it ended up costing us around $500. Inside storage (non-heated) is about $550.

JWC

 

[jpl2407]

Just for comparison's sake, we did our own winterization of the RV-like components in the boat - all water lines, sink, shower, shower sump, etc. The mechanics winterized the engine/drive and it ended up costing us around $500. Inside storage (non-heated) is about $550.

JWC

I think next year I will do the same. This is my first boat so, I did not want to risk not getting it right so to speak. I did learn some lessons that will help keep the cost down in future, this is a rough estimate of my winterization costs:

Winterization $1300



8 cylinder Engine Winterization, Included antifreeze for engine, disconnect or turn off battery switch
Holding Tank Chemical
Gas Stabilizer per 60 gallons
Bottom Cleaning
Oil Change Synthetic Blend includes labor, oil and new filter per engine
Winterize fresh water system (cold & hot)
Winterize air conditioning unit
Winterize head
Moisture Control Bag
Outdrive Winterization Package
This package included removing outdrive, checking engine alignment, greasing U-joints and gimble bearing, re-install outdrive and change lower unit gear lube.


Winter Land Storage $550 (Outside on trailer)


Haul Out $225


Shrink Wrap $400

Next year I will Haul the boat out myself and perform the non engine winterization.

Regards

Jake

 

[alwhite00]

Damn, Glad I can do my own.

 

[jpl2407]

Like I mentioned I did learn some lessons that will save me a bunch next year .......anyhoo about my bilge pump.....any ideas?

 

[jpl2407]

Last expense before launch I hope. I decided to have my outdrive refinished (completely sanded, refinished and new anodes) cost ..... $500 all in.

 

[kbs]

Just found this forum. picked up a 96 250 sundancer this winter and can't wait to get it ready for the season. Does the front v berth mirror open? there is a piano hinge on the top, but I can't seem to open it. What type of fitting holds it closed? thanks

 

[Clam Bake]

Very nice boat. You could look in the anchor locker and see if there is a hole - the anchor locker is what would be behind the mirror. If someone installs a windlass and screws their anchor locker door shut for windlass support, then they would access the anchor locker area from behind the mirror. My mirror is fixed, with no access behind it and no hinges.

Good luck with the boat.

Cheers, Pete.

 

[kbs]

Very nice boat. You could look in the anchor locker and see if there is a hole - the anchor locker is what would be behind the mirror. If someone installs a windlass and screws their anchor locker door shut for windlass support, then they would access the anchor locker area from behind the mirror. My mirror is fixed, with no access behind it and no hinges.

Good luck with the boat.

Cheers, Pete.

thanks Pete. Boat is shrink wrapped at the moment and never had a chance to explore it, since i picked it up in December. There is no windlass. i plan on installing one, when the weather improves. While trying to pry the mirror up on both lower sides, I did feel some screws. A small project. Just didn't make any sense to have that long piano hinge at the top, while knowing that it would be where one would get access to the rope locker. Hopefully, by April, the cover comes off and the work starts. You've been getting blasted with the snow as we have here on the island. Ken

 

[alwhite00]

Mine has no access either, I would just look in the anchor locker to see if there is a hole or something fastening it. Mine has 4 bolts with nuts I believe.

 

[jpl2407]

Hello again fellow 250 drivers. Launch day is drawing near up here in the western side of PA . I paid a vidit to the marina today to check out the boat, left with mixed feelings . First the good....my outdrive, a few pages back I put up pics of the seasons end state of the alpha 1:

Well, I had that taken care of:

Now the bad

1) One of the trailer tires was literally blown out, not a big deal, had the spare put on.

2) Hull inspection, cracks in the gelcoat, spidering etc, not sure what to do here, do you think I can get through the season (6 months in the water) with the hull looking like this:

This is the bow, and, leads to the spider cracks about 24" further aft:

What do you think? Did I cause the cracking by beaching her?:

 

[mwph]

As for your gel coat, the first picture looks like something was beating up against the boat and dinged it up like that. It looks to me to be a simple gel coat repair. Same for the second one, a small ding that is a cheap fix. I'll let other, more experienced guys address the spider cracking. Its hard to tell where on the boat in relation to the waterline the cracks are. As far as beaching the boat causing problems, I don't know, at what speed did you hit the beach? Again, I'll let others address the damage.

 

[jpl2407]

The beaching was very slow, basically just bumped the throttle from 6 or 7 yds out and let her roll up on the sand. Not sure if this pic will help, I tried to illustrate where the crack leads from the bow to the spidering, all of the cracks are below the waterline: