OFFICIAL 250 DANCER THREAD

So are you happy with the ATC? Does it show where the tabs are at? when they are moving? Etc?

LK
 
Yes I am extremely happy with the system, while it does not show current tab position, it does show you by way of flashing up or down arrows (port and starboard) when the system is adjusting the tabs.
 
So, today I figured I would add a new power socket to the boat. Something I can charge my phone and tablet devices.

image_zpsa525635f.jpg
 
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Nice addition. I added a 110v outlet in the head for the admirals hair dryer.

LK
 
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jpl2407 said:
So, today I figured I would add a new power socket to the boat. Something I can charge my phone and tablet devices.

image_zpsa525635f.jpg
Click to expand...

brilliant. i'm doing that this winter
 
Well my season in finally over :(. Boat has been hauled out and winterized, roll on Apr 14th when she is launched again. Although quite a short season I learned a lot and got more comfortable taking her out. My wife and I had some great times this year, and, look forward to next year. Over the winter there is some work that needs to be carried out, the bellows will be replaced on the alpha 2 out drive as well as the city water pressure regulator, I have also asked the marina mechanics to take a look and replace if necessary the sender for the prop trim as the gauge is a guessing game :). Next year we will try to embark on some longer cruises, and, a little night cruising as one of the main reasons I wanted this boat was to watch the July 4th fireworks from the river here in Pittsburgh, so we want to get comfortable with the 40 minute cruise from downtown Pittsburgh back to our marina.

Regards,

Jake
 
Jake,
Don't know how good your relationship is with the service department but you might want them to call you with an estimate for replacing/fixing your trim sender issue. I understand they will be doing the bellows work so it's not like that's the only thing they will be doing but it will be good to know. If they have the drive off it would be a good time to check the alignment too.
 
The advice from MWPH is good. The trim senders and limit switch is a common failure. The parts are only $75. The labor isn't trivial but if they will have the drive off will certainly be cheaper.
 
Thanks for the advice, the service dept will be sending me quotes prior to doing any work. the out drive will be winterized once the work is complete, this includes checking engine alignment, greasing U-joints and gimble bearing, re-install outdrive and change lower unit gear lube. She should be in tip top shape for next season.

One thing I was considering doing was replacing the cockpit gauges just to bring the look out of the nineties :), any suggestions, or should I just stick with the oem ones?

Regards,

Jake.
 
One project that I want to accomplish with the cooler weather is to reseal the port windows. Does anyone know who the manufacturer is and where i might be able to get new seals?

Port window inside.jpgPort window outside.jpg
 
I thought that might be made by Bomar. I sent two queries to the Bomar support alias and never got a response.
 
So, here is my 250 all wrapped up for the winter, its a sad sight and I anxiously await the spring:

image_zps0dd3159d.jpg


having her out of the water has raised a couple of questions:

1) Are these the standard (OEM) Trim Tabs:

image_zps8f514871.jpg


2) Is this the typical condition of an outdrive after a few seasons in water, does anybody see any warning signs that should be addressed?:

image_zpse1cb66ae.jpg


image_zpsf2b55d7f.jpg


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3) Does this appear to be a standard OEM prop for a 95 250DA (I have another 3 blade (15 X 17 and a 4 blade 15 X 16 in my garage, not sure if these are appropriate for the boat)
image_zps920ef23b.jpg


Spare Props:

image_zpscfe83889.jpg



Thanks in advance,

Regards,

Jake
 
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#1 - Those are the OEM tabs
#2 - That is a lot more corrosion than my Bravo of the same year has. You might confirm whether the Mercathode system working properly.
#3 - The OEM prop on your configuration is 15.25 x 15 3-blade with a WOT of 4600 RPM. Someone else will chime in as to whether that 4-blade would work.
 
Phlorida said:
#2 - That is a lot more corrosion than my Bravo of the same year has. You might confirm whether the Mercathode system working properly.
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Thanks Phlorida,

I have an Alpha 1, I noticed that the Mercathode system was an option on this drive, so, I may not have it, not sure if it is worth noting that this is a freshwater only boat.
 
My boat is salt water from April to Nov and twin alpha's and both have less corrosion than that. Time for some service and your mercathode system is not functional if you have one. Anodes are probably toast too. In fresh water they need to be replaced yearly also. I had a fresh water boat for 7 years before this one and the drive.looked brand new when I sold it. Only one scratch from the driveway when it slipped out of my hands when replacing the.bellows.
 
I would definitely get after than corrosion and get it sanded, filled primed (with Zinc chromate) and repainted. The Alpha is light on zincs when left in the water and a stainless prop is attached. I think maybe pull the boat to inspect this corrosion mid season and step up the frequency of your zinc replacement. This is the main reason I don't leave the boat in the water and we trailer it.
 
jpl2407 said:
Pompanette/ Bomar are the OEM I believe, I need to replace mine. Their website is http://www.pompanette.com/home I think the part number is P100-04-RETRO.
Click to expand...

I called them today and the gaskets are on their way. They needed the outside dimensions of the stainless trim ring. I had recently replaced the snap-in screens so I opted for the gasket alone. The part number was S616-gasket and they were $18/each.
 
Re: OFFICIAL 250 DANCER THREAD, ?leaking fuel tank despite of normal presure testing

OMG, the things you guys do on your own is fantastic and the price is also great compare to Australia resources.
I started a thread on maintenance forum about ? leaking fuel tank despite of normal pressure testing on my 1998 Searay 250 Sundancer (without the radar arch) and hoping someone with similar experience will give some advice. Of course the worse case scenario will be to replace the whole aluminium tank which will probably cost another $4k. I only installed a new mercruiser 325 hp engine 2 weeks ago which costs around $15k here in Australia and it will have to come out again tfor access to the fuel tank. Also spent $3k for miscellaneous things in the last 2 weeks to get this boat summer ready.
I was so excited when I first got this boat 4 years ago, but I have been time poor and not always on top of my boat, that's why I am at the mercy of the marine mechanic now ( lesson learned). Maybe someone has replaced older model sundancer 250 with aluminium tank to a plastic tank to avoid future corrosion and if that is true then please tell me the details so I can share the information with my local marine mechanic.
I don't think my boat will be coming back tomorrow it has been at the ship wrights this week getting antifouled, underwater lights installed and even paid for detailing which means the boat will be a mess again if the engine needs to come out for the fuel tank access.. heart is sinking....
 
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