58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

[ranger58sb]

I'll throw in here if you don't mind. Don't confuse brightness with color temperature. I have replaced all lamps on the boat sans engine room with LED. For the three inch recessed lights in the cabin I kept the temperature to no more than 3600 degrees Kelvin and matched the lumens (brightness) to the halogens and for the heads 5000 degrees Kelvin (more towards sunshine). These are the lamps from Marinebeam.com I installed for the living areas https://store.marinebeam.com/9-led-back-pin-g4-smd-power-cluster-novi-bp-g4-09x/

We used the 10-LED version from marinebeam for most replacements; the 12-LED version for over the galley. All the 3000K option. So far, I've found 38 burned-out or missing bulbs, most (except for rope lights) replaced already. I think my total replacement so far us around 63 bulbs.

The only ones that are bordering on slightly too bright are the 6 10-LED G4s over the dinette... although it helps to have the extra light when I'm working on something. I might consider putting a dimmer on that circuit...

Haven't changed anything outside to LEDs yet; just re-used original xenon for the fixtures with burned-out bulbs. On my to-do list.

How many POs does it take to change a lightbulb. I can't yet answer that...

-Chris

 

[bmac]

I'll throw in here if you don't mind. Don't confuse brightness with color temperature. I have replaced all lamps on the boat sans engine room with LED. For the three inch recessed lights in the cabin I kept the temperature to no more than 3600 degrees Kelvin and matched the lumens (brightness) to the halogens and for the heads 5000 degrees Kelvin (more towards sunshine). These are the lamps from Marinebeam.com I installed for the living areas https://store.marinebeam.com/9-led-back-pin-g4-smd-power-cluster-novi-bp-g4-09x/
Very happy with them.

Tom, I also used all Marinebeam LED lamps throughout the boat, however I also replaced the fluorescent bulbs in the six engine room fixtures with these form Marinebeam;
4 × 18" F15T8 12/24VDC LED Tube for Fluorescent Fixtures (FL-T8-102)
Though they are not temperature rated they worked very well for the four seasons I had them in the boat. They really improved the lighting compared to the fluorescents and were an easy swap out with just some minor wiring changes, though the fixtures did need to come off the boat to do those modifications. Much cheaper than installing all new fixtures.

 

[Brett H]

Tom, I also used all Marinebeam LED lamps throughout the boat, however I also replaced the fluorescent bulbs in the six engine room fixtures with these form Marinebeam;
4 × 18" F15T8 12/24VDC LED Tube for Fluorescent Fixtures (FL-T8-102)
Though they are not temperature rated they worked very well for the four seasons I had them in the boat. They really improved the lighting compared to the fluorescents and were an easy swap out with just some minor wiring changes, though the fixtures did need to come off the boat to do those modifications. Much cheaper than installing all new fixtures.

+1.
I did the same in July of 2019. Still work great. Very happy with results.

 

[ranger58sb]

So far, I've found 38 burned-out or missing bulbs, most (except for rope lights) replaced already. I think my total replacement so far us around 63 bulbs.

How many POs does it take to change a lightbulb. I can't yet answer that...

Speaking of replacement bulbs... I fixed two more yesterday, with Carter's help sourcing parts. One was the green shore power indicator on the AC panel (from flounder pounder) and the other was the amber bilge light indicator on the Vimar switch at the saloon door (VM00935.A from Imtra).

I also discovered the port/starboard "salon" lights -- the ones with the dimmer -- are on an AC circuit, somehow. No power to those lights when when I turned off power at the pedestal to connect the green indicator light.

AND... the bilge light switch isn't controlled by the "bilge/cockpit lighting" breaker on the 24V panel.

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

City water -- in case useful for other owners....

Problem:

A) Our water pressure regulator on the city water inlet apparently failed (10/18/21) completely shutting off the dock water supply to the boat, and
B) Dock water pressure has been underwhelming anyway.

Background:

1) The Sea Ray Parts Manual lists a Shurflo “Extreme” 6.0 GPM fresh water pump as original. Shurflo’s now-discontinued Extreme-series pump was apparently rated at 5.7 GPM and 65 PSI. The currently installed Aqua King II Supreme (which replaced an earlier, non-original Aqua King) is rated at 5.0 GPM and up 55 PSI. Conclusion: our internal plumbing can handle 6.0 GPM and 65 PSI.

2) The Parts Manual illustrates the city water hookup which is connected to the adjacent cockpit washdown spigot via a T fitting. An inline water pressure regulator (with built-in backflow preventer, also demonstrated empirically) controls the city water inlet. The Manual describes the original pressure regulator as an ITT product, almost certainly a Jabsco (Xylem) 44410-1010, unknown GPM, 35 PSI… which partially explains the anemic water pressure. (This is the inline version of the original flush mount regulators we had on our previous boat.) Jabsco’s current inline product iteration is 44411-0045, unknown GPM, 45 PSI, +/- 5 PSI. (This is the inline version of the flush mount replacement we used on the previous boat.) Nothing controls incoming (backfed) water pressure on the washdown spigot… but the fixture leaks (might just need a new o-ring).

3) Higher flow water pressure regulators exist, common for the RV market. The Camco 40054 (unknown GPM, 50-60 PSI) and Valterra A01-1114VP (unknown GPM, 50-55 PSI) are examples. The Valterra model does not incorporate a backflow preventer; don’t know about the Camco model yet (suspect probably not).

Courses of action:

1) Replace the existing failed inline pressure regulator with the new Jabsco product. Water pressure would at least increase a little (per our experience with replacement on the previous boat), this retains backflow prevention, and leaves the boat in improved-near-original condition. Access will not be easy.

2) Replace the original Jabsco pressure regulator – i.e., in the original location, behind the inlet bulkhead -- with a higher flow Camco/Valterra (or similar) pressure regulator. Water pressure would increase a lot, but this loses the Jabsco’s backflow protection… and without backflow protection the boat wouldn’t exactly be in improved-near-original condition. Access will not be easy.

3) Remove the original failed Jabsco unit, replace it with straight hose behind the bulkhead (access will not be easy), and then feed the city water inlet with a Camco/Valterra (or similar) high flow pressure regulator on the inlet hose. This is similar to #2, with the same pros/cons, but when future regulators fail a quick – external -- fix is much easier/faster.

4) Repair the washdown spigot (which needs doing anyway) and then backfeed city water through it using a Camco/Valterra (or similar) high flow pressure regulator on the supply hose, bypassing the city water inlet and the original pressure regulator. Water pressure would increase a lot, but this doesn’t fix the existing “clogged city water inlet” problem, and doesn’t leave the boat in improved-near-original condition.

5) Do both: replace the original regulator with the current Jabsco product (access will not be easy), repair the washdown spigot (needs doing anyway), and then usually bring city water aboard via the spigot using a Camco/Valterra (or similar) on the supply hose. Water pressure would usually increase a lot, this retains backflow prevention on the actual city water inlet, and leaves the boat in improved-near-original condition.

Access to the original unit will be a bit painful, and I’ll need a tool caddy… and probably help getting back out from back there…

-Chris

 

[Shaps]

Chris,
Had the same issue when I bought my boat. The ITT unit had failed and it was in that ridiculous spot along the T Fitting.
I removed it and now use the Jabsco replacement on my city water feed.
so, it's basically your #3

2 seasons now like that with no issues.

 

[swaterhouse]

Access to the original unit will be a bit painful, and I’ll need a tool caddy… and probably help getting back out from back there…

-Chris

I think it was @carterchapman that said on one of these posts he takes pain relievers before entering any portion of the engine room on this boat!

Its my #1 complaint about this boat, but there are too many other nice things that this one gets outweighed by a big margin.

Were off for our last overnight Saturday before delivering it to winter storage and a work list a mile long.

 

[carterchapman]

I think it was @carterchapman that said on one of these posts he takes pain relievers before entering any portion of the engine room on this boat!

Its my #1 complaint about this boat, but there are too many other nice things that this one gets outweighed by a big margin.

Were off for our last overnight Saturday before delivering it to winter storage and a work list a mile long.

LOL - I always say my engine room will keep me young or kill me...and the jury is out!! 2 Aleves work wonders as "pre-treatments"!!

 

[ranger58sb]

5) Do both: replace the original regulator with the current Jabsco product (access will not be easy), repair the washdown spigot (needs doing anyway), and then usually bring city water aboard via the spigot using a Camco/Valterra (or similar) on the supply hose. Water pressure would usually increase a lot, this retains backflow prevention on the actual city water inlet, and leaves the boat in improved-near-original condition.

Slight potential glitch, although it’s just a risk factor to be considered.

The spigot is Whitecap Raw Water Washdown sillcock P-2453, chrome plated brass, not advertised as lead-free, and accompanied on their website by lead warnings known to the State of California.

OTOH, the existing original is already in contact with the freshwater inlet system, even if slightly indirectly. And the existing original freshwater inlet, listed in the Sea Ray Parts manual as CHR/BRZ (chrome plated bronze?) looks like the Whitecap Water Inlet P-2455, which is also chrome plated brass, not advertised as lead-free, and accompanied by lead warnings known to the State of California. Plus, the California warning apparently doesn’t apply in any other State. J

I've asked Whitecap (via email) if they sell a sillcock rebuild kit; otherwise I’ll buy the whole thing and just swap the guts from new onto the old housing (which appears to be 5200-ed onto the bulkhead).

Camco confirmed their regulators do not incorporate a backflow preventer.

After I try to replace the internal Jabsco regulator, I’ll probably be all stove up for a week or so afterwards. Good to know about the pre-treatment approach!

-Chris

 

[ttmott]

Slight potential glitch, although it’s just a risk factor to be considered.

The spigot is Whitecap Raw Water Washdown sillcock P-2453, chrome plated brass, not advertised as lead-free, and accompanied on their website by lead warnings known to the State of California.

OTOH, the existing original is already in contact with the freshwater inlet system, even if slightly indirectly. And the existing original freshwater inlet, listed in the Sea Ray Parts manual as CHR/BRZ (chrome plated bronze?) looks like the Whitecap Water Inlet P-2455, which is also chrome plated brass, not advertised as lead-free, and accompanied by lead warnings known to the State of California. Plus, the California warning apparently doesn’t apply in any other State. J

I've asked Whitecap (via email) if they sell a sillcock rebuild kit; otherwise I’ll buy the whole thing and just swap the guts from new onto the old housing (which appears to be 5200-ed onto the bulkhead).

Camco confirmed their regulators do not incorporate a backflow preventer.

After I try to replace the internal Jabsco regulator, I’ll probably be all stove up for a week or so afterwards. Good to know about the pre-treatment approach!

-Chris

I'm trying to understand the "lead free" track.... If they don't advertise as lead free does it mean it is a lead / drinking water issue? Or is it desirable to ensure all water products are certified as lead free. I suspect you can take any Ca warnings and ... well you know what - quite the history of over-reach and implication of all. Consider Prop 65; what doesn't have that warning.....
I just installed a new kitchen and bathrooms in my house and installed all Delta Brizo brass/bronze fixtures; I don't recall anything stating lead free....

 

[ranger58sb]

I'm trying to understand the "lead free" track.... If they don't advertise as lead free does it mean it is a lead / drinking water issue? Or is it desirable to ensure all water products are certified as lead free. I suspect you can take any Ca warnings and ... well you know what - quite the history of over-reach and implication of all. Consider Prop 65; what doesn't have that warning.....

Yeah, I meant the Whitecap site has California Prop65 warnings on all their similar stuff, inlets, outlets, etc. I dunno when products like chrome plated (and apparently not lead free) brass were added to the CA list.

Let's say I'm correct that our freshwater inlets are Whitecap P-2455s. If that's the case, Sea Ray apparently chose to use them anyway, at least in our 2006 model boat. Which, among other things, leads me to not be overly-concerned about using the Whitecap P-2453 washdown outlet as an alternative freshwater inlet.

-Chris

 

[ttmott]

Yeah, I meant the Whitecap site has California Prop65 warnings on all their similar stuff, inlets, outlets, etc. I dunno when products like chrome plated (and apparently not lead free) brass were added to the CA list.

Let's say I'm correct that our freshwater inlets are Whitecap P-2455s. If that's the case, Sea Ray apparently chose to use them anyway, at least in our 2006 model boat. Which, among other things, leads me to not be overly-concerned about using the Whitecap P-2453 washdown outlet as an alternative freshwater inlet.

-Chris

Cool thanks. If you peel back the onion on Prop 65 you will find the compliance process is so arduous and costly that all the manufacturers simply put the warning on the product. That doesn't mean there are issues with the product.

 

[ranger58sb]

Cool thanks. If you peel back the onion on Prop 65 you will find the compliance process is so arduous and costly that all the manufacturers simply put the warning on the product. That doesn't mean there are issues with the product.

Hah! That's good to know too!

-C

 

[ranger58sb]

Back to other fix-it stuff, I tried to exercise the hydraulic swim platform yesterday, no joy.

I have power to the rocker in the cockpit and to the remote... and there's a "chirp" from near where the breaker lives in the engine room when I try to activate either of those... but the platform itself acts like it's locked, no movement.

The lift worked during the marine survey in May. I may well have damaged something afterwards, though, while I was coming to terms with the single-lever controls. (I bounced it off a couple of docks in those first couple of dockings. <sigh>...)

But is it possible I'm just missing something in the activation sequence?

-Chris

 

[Shaps]

@ranger58sb
Let's go through the steps.
You turn on the switch in the transom.
Is there a power button on your wife's remote?
If so press it.
Then hold the up for 5 or so seconds then release
Now press the down ( or up)

 

[ranger58sb]

Thanks, I thought that might solve it since I hadn't found that sequence mentioned before...

But no joy.

The switch in the cockpit looks like a momentary Up/Down rocker to me (?) but I only hear the brief "chirp" when I press the up side of the actuator. And no platform movement, either way.

And then I also thought the remote was optional, use it or not... in any case, I get no response from that either.

-Chris

 

[Irie308]

Assuming you have a GHS based on the chirp when you first power on the lift? Do you hear the warning beep at all when you hold the down button for 5 secs?
I had similar issue when we got our boat a few years back. Worked at the survey but nothing when we got her home. Was told by a knowledgeable friend to tap the solenoid on the pump as they tend to stick when not used for a while. Tapping the solenoid worked and issue hasn’t occurred again after own the boat for 3 seasons.

 

[tc410]

The chirp you hear when powering on is normal - that’s the solenoid powering up the system. Have you tried the hard-wired handheld remote? If you’re only trying the key fob remotes, you might want to try new batteries in them. I have to replace mine nearly every season.

 

[ranger58sb]

Assuming you have a GHS based on the chirp when you first power on the lift? Do you hear the warning beep at all when you hold the down button for 5 secs?
I had similar issue when we got our boat a few years back. Worked at the survey but nothing when we got her home. Was told by a knowledgeable friend to tap the solenoid on the pump as they tend to stick when not used for a while. Tapping the solenoid worked and issue hasn’t occurred again after own the boat for 3 seasons.

Yes, GHS (far as I know). No warning beep. Can you describe where the pump and solenoid is? I'm not yet used to recognizing things by sight...

The chirp you hear when powering on is normal - that’s the solenoid powering up the system. Have you tried the hard-wired handheld remote? If you’re only trying the key fob remotes, you might want to try new batteries in them. I have to replace mine nearly every season.

Does hearing the chirp mean tapping on the solenoid won't help?

We only have a wired remote; I've been assuming it gets power from one pair of the 4 pins...

-Chris

 

[Irie308]

Hope this helps.model is based on the color pump you have.
https://www.ghslift.com/user/files/manual-2013.pdf