58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

[ranger58sb]

Anyone know roughly how many 58s were produced in 2006, 2007, 2008?

That's a good question! My production # is 58DB534, but I can't believe they made that many '06's! Sea Ray Customer Service could answer that...or maybe @Capt. Rusty Higgins might know...

my 2006 is DB 542

Ours came off the line close together.

Mine is 535.
REALLY close together!

Thinking more about this... the lowest hull number I see in the 2006 parts manual is #501... and the highest (at quick glance) is #539. @Trinity says his 2006 is #542. I suspect that means Sea Ray made at least 42 58DBs during 2005-2006-ish...

And then maybe consulting the 2013 manual (if there is one) might give some hints as to how many more they made after that.

-Chris

 

[Robert Serviss]

For future reference however my alternator checked out as working from the shop but I’m having voltage issues on my starboard battery bank. It drops to about 24 and fluctuates when I’m cruising and with the generator on. I’m thinking I might need new batteries on that side.

a quick FYI I found out the source of the voltage drop which was causing a EDC failure which caused the engine to go into guardian mode along with intermittent starting issue.
After testing the alternator and then the batteries I opened the starter solenoid box and found multiple loose connections and a nut that holds the alternator connection completely off. I’m assuming some engine vibration caused these nuts to come loose. I’m glad it was an easy and cheap fix.

 

[carterchapman]

I’m glad it was an easy and cheap fix.

Sometimes those are rare and far between! Great fix - where is the starter solenoid box(es) located on the engine?

 

[Robert Serviss]

Sometimes those are rare and far between! Great fix - where is the starter solenoid box(es) located on the engine?

Starboard engine is easy and is next to the starter on the inboard side of the engine. The port one would be a bitch it’s on the outboard side with no access.

 

[carterchapman]

Thanks @Robert Serviss!

 

[ranger58sb]

GHS LIFT PLATFORM

I'm still pondering how to proceed. Rick at GHS gave me first tests to perform, did that, outcome led to Plan B... which is first to bypass the latching solenoid to see if that's the first failure point.

I know how to do that, theoretically, but...

I haven't found the breaker that controls power to the system. Any clues? I see this in the Parts Manual:
1185099 BRKR, SURF MNT THERMAL 100AMP MANUAL RESET
(HYDRAULIC MARINE LIFT SWIM PLATFORM SYSTEM)
but the related diagram isn't helpful.

Section 7/10 in the Owners Manual says it's powered through the SWIM PLATFORM breaker in Figure 6.5.1, engine room, forward engine room component board. Figure 6.5.1 isn't pointing me at anything obvious, doesn't include the words "swim platform" or similar.

I had expected to find it on the Main DC Breaker Panel, just forward of the thruster batteries, but no joy...

Pointers, anyone?

Also, once that's solved (hopefully), what's the best way to actually do the work? Our GHS pump's controller box faces outboard, and it's covered, can't see solenoids and fuses inside... Do folks remove the plexi cover, then try to work inside that box using a mirror or something? Or dismount the whole box, turn it upward to expose the solenoids and fuses etc.? Or dismount the whole pump assembly, turn it to do the work, then remount it all?

Or...?

I at least have already figured out this is a job for knee pads, an "I might need this" tool bag, extra lighting, and a helper who can lasso my legs and pull me back out once the work is (hopefully) done... And now I know from you guys to take some pain killers BEFORE starting work like this!

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

@ranger58sb - Chris - I bought some 1" thick rubber pads, cut them to fit over the battery boxes, and i can lay/crawl on those and get back there pretty easily - now you are a real man when you crawl UNDER the genny exhaust hose to access the steering ram!!

Yes to two Aleve 1 hr prior!!

 

[Irie308]

GHS LIFT PLATFORM

I'm still pondering how to proceed. Rick at GHS gave me first tests to perform, did that, outcome led to Plan B... which is first to bypass the latching solenoid to see if that's the first failure point.

I know how to do that, theoretically, but...

I haven't found the breaker that controls power to the system. Any clues? I see this in the Parts Manual:
1185099 BRKR, SURF MNT THERMAL 100AMP MANUAL RESET
(HYDRAULIC MARINE LIFT SWIM PLATFORM SYSTEM)
but the related diagram isn't helpful.

Section 7/10 in the Owners Manual says it's powered through the SWIM PLATFORM breaker in Figure 6.5.1, engine room, forward engine room component board. Figure 6.5.1 isn't pointing me at anything obvious, doesn't include the words "swim platform" or similar.

I had expected to find it on the Main DC Breaker Panel, just forward of the thruster batteries, but no joy...

Pointers, anyone?

Also, once that's solved (hopefully), what's the best way to actually do the work? Our GHS pump's controller box faces outboard, and it's covered, can't see solenoids and fuses inside... Do folks remove the plexi cover, then try to work inside that box using a mirror or something? Or dismount the whole box, turn it upward to expose the solenoids and fuses etc.? Or dismount the whole pump assembly, turn it to do the work, then remount it all?

Or...?

I at least have already figured out this is a job for knee pads, an "I might need this" tool bag, extra lighting, and a helper who can lasso my legs and pull me back out once the work is (hopefully) done... And now I know from you guys to take some pain killers BEFORE starting work like this!

-Chris

Troubleshooting a wireless issue with my lift so I have been spending some time in the bilge. Different boat but assume same premise. If you follow the + power feed from the solenoid you should find the thermal breaker. Hopefully it’s just tripped and possibly your issue? There are fuses on the Unit too that you can check. What model do you have?

 

[tc410]

I had expected to find it on the Main DC Breaker Panel, just forward of the thruster batteries, but no joy...

Pointers, anyone?

It’s a push button breaker where when you push the little red “stem” a reset lever drops out the bottom of the breaker. Mine is mounted on the plywood panel behind the thruster batteries - where the thruster fuses and thruster battery charger are mounted.

Looks like this:

 

[ranger58sb]

@ranger58sb - Chris - I bought some 1" thick rubber pads, cut them to fit over the battery boxes, and i can lay/crawl on those and get back there pretty easily - now you are a real man when you crawl UNDER the genny exhaust hose to access the steering ram!!

Yes to two Aleve 1 hr prior!!

I did get some decent knee pads, and I know where my elbow pads are...

Troubleshooting a wireless issue with my lift so I have been spending some time in the bilge. Different boat but assume same premise. If you follow the + power feed from the solenoid you should find the thermal breaker. Hopefully it’s just tripped and possibly your issue? There are fuses on the Unit too that you can check. What model do you have?

Thanks. I would think if it's tripped I wouldn't be hearing the "chirp" when I try to activate the lift system, but it'd maybe be nifty if it turns out to be partly that simple. I have the "Silver Pump, 2nd Generation" and sure enough probably at least one of those internal blade fuses probably needs replacing.

It’s a push button breaker where when you push the little red “stem” a reset lever drops out the bottom of the breaker. Mine is mounted on the plywood panel behind the thruster batteries - where the thruster fuses and thruster battery charger are mounted.

Ah! That helps mucho, thanks! That 'splains why the Part Manual says "Reset." I was looking for a rocker switch somewhere because the Owners Manual says "Breaker." Now that I know what to look for, I can get all over that!

-Chris

 

[ranger58sb]

It’s a push button breaker where when you push the little red “stem” a reset lever drops out the bottom of the breaker. Mine is mounted on the plywood panel behind the thruster batteries - where the thruster fuses and thruster battery charger are mounted.

Ah! That helps mucho, thanks! That 'splains why the Part Manual says "Reset." I was looking for a rocker switch somewhere because the Owners Manual says "Breaker." Now that I know what to look for, I can get all over that!

Well... I thought it'd be easy, but... no joy. Still haven't found that bugger. The positive battery cable from the hydraulic pump disappears after running behind the thruster batteries and then forward a bit toward the port engine... I'll have to dig deeper...

-Chris

 

[cod]

Well... I thought it'd be easy, but... no joy. Still haven't found that bugger. The positive battery cable from the hydraulic pump disappears after running behind the thruster batteries and then forward a bit toward the port engine... I'll have to dig deeper...

-Chris

Have you checked the accessory breakers on your 12/24V DC main distribution panel to see if one is tripped?

 

[swaterhouse]

Well... I thought it'd be easy, but... no joy. Still haven't found that bugger. The positive battery cable from the hydraulic pump disappears after running behind the thruster batteries and then forward a bit toward the port engine... I'll have to dig deeper...

-Chris

I have two breakers under the main battery solenoid box (black box about 12" square, 6" deep), just forward of the engine/house batteries. One for sure is the windlass, pretty sure the other is the swim platform. If you have two there, my windlass is the upper one.

 

[swaterhouse]

I also forgot to mention that in trouble shooting my windlass issues this summer, I found the ends of every wire had a label with a number on it, super helpful to reference back to the wiring diagrams. I have a lot on non standard wiring, the original owner seemed to have some interesting ideas, in a good way. Just makes it a bit harder to troubleshoot.

Since the swim platform was standard in 2006, I suspect the wiring will be in the diagram.

 

[ranger58sb]

Have you checked the accessory breakers on your 12/24V DC main distribution panel to see if one is tripped?

Thanks. Yes, I did, none tripped. In fact, IIRC, most (all?) of the slots marked "Accessory" don't have breakers anyway. Ad I think the system wouldn't "chirp" if the problem was just a breaker being tripped?

I have two breakers under the main battery solenoid box (black box about 12" square, 6" deep), just forward of the engine/house batteries. One for sure is the windlass, pretty sure the other is the swim platform. If you have two there, my windlass is the upper one.

Woo hoo! Maybe.

I do indeed have two breakers of some sort there, found yesterday. Side by side, under the main solenoid box, and I did begin to suspect one might be related. One is marked "184040, 80 Ampere, Thermal Circuit Breaker" in three lines, and the other is marked "HI-AMP, Buss, 100A" in three lines. 80A is maybe windlass? 100A is maybe platform?

They don't look completely like Jeff's picture though; they look more like just the middle portion of his pic, and there's no red button... I didn't get a good look at the under side, but potentially there's a reset arm that swings down? I've not encountered something like these with no test/disable button before, so I'm not aware of how to trip them.

???

I haven't found the platform in the schematics yet... I do see an 80A windlass breaker on the Main Battery Solenoid Schematic, drawing 09-609, p146 in the Parts Manual.

-Chris

 

[swaterhouse]

Thanks. Yes, I did, none tripped. In fact, IIRC, most (all?) of the slots marked "Accessory" don't have breakers anyway. Ad I think the system wouldn't "chirp" if the problem was just a breaker being tripped?



Woo hoo! Maybe.

I do indeed have two breakers of some sort there, found yesterday. Side by side, under the main solenoid box, and I did begin to suspect one might be related. One is marked "184040, 80 Ampere, Thermal Circuit Breaker" in three lines, and the other is marked "HI-AMP, Buss, 100A" in three lines. 80A is maybe windlass? 100A is maybe platform?

They don't look completely like Jeff's picture though; they look more like just the middle portion of his pic, and there's no red button... I didn't get a good look at the under side, but potentially there's a reset arm that swings down? I've not encountered something like these with no test/disable button before, so I'm not aware of how to trip them.

???

-Chris

The 80 amp is the windlass.

My breakers don't have resets either. If tripped there is an arm that swings down.

This is my windlass breaker, slightly broken. You can see the other just below it.

 

[ranger58sb]

Thanks, yep, that's them. How does one intentionally trip them? To remove power from the platform pump?

-Chris

 

[carterchapman]

Thanks, yep, that's them. How does one intentionally trip them? To remove power from the platform pump?

-Chris

Mine have the trip buttons as I recall (but a mind is a terrible thing to lose!).

 

[ranger58sb]

Well, initial research says these are probably Cooper Bussman (by Eaton) -- or some combination of those names -- surface mounted manual reset circuit breakers.

184 = Type III (Manual Reset), 42V (presumably that means 42V max)
080 = 80 amps (and its marked that way).
(The 185 series breakers have the push-to-trip (PTT) option.)

Current versions apparently all have an "F" suffix, e.g., 184080F.

No clue how to intentionally trip these 184s yet. Maybe possible to reach up from below and pull the reset lever down?

Or... maybe these aren't the intended path to shut off power to the swim platform or windlass?

-Chris

 

[techmitch]

The 80 amp is the windlass.

My breakers don't have resets either. If tripped there is an arm that swings down.

This is my windlass breaker, slightly broken. You can see the other just below it.


View attachment 115162

Thanks, yep, that's them. How does one intentionally trip them? To remove power from the platform pump?

-Chris

Is that a button on the left just below the pivot screw for the reset lever?