58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

Ok, I have had a chance to crawl around my boat to figure out the swim platform fuse issue you guys are posting. I have a 140 amp resettable breaker that is hooked up to the house batteries. I believe this is for the swim platform. It is just starboard of the generator battery.

(click):AF1QipNllGXb6pQQTZMX-PzZ2ModPNqfBI47-D2PnSQO

There are two spade fuses on the swim platform solenoid. (And two spares)

(Click):AF1QipMwUOQGo6CW0DOOUME6d6e6APeKSqCOYhD5D8rw

(Click):AF1QipOwcMWQyzlF48PlWM89j45j8n21fnjgA94CCVB-

I have two 8D batteries for my thrusters (Bow & Stern) and the fuse is on the wall with the thruster charger. So there is no way the resettable fuse that is by the generator battery would be connected to the thrusters.

(Click):AF1QipOr1CXOBThCJTxD-KUuacQMNtImu2DaJCjIqhHo

I hope this helps.

Ken
 
missnmountains said:
Ok, I have had a chance to crawl around my boat to figure out the swim platform fuse issue you guys are posting. I have a 140 amp resettable breaker that is hooked up to the house batteries. I believe this is for the swim platform. It is just starboard of the generator battery.

(click):AF1QipNllGXb6pQQTZMX-PzZ2ModPNqfBI47-D2PnSQO

There are two spade fuses on the swim platform solenoid. (And two spares)

(Click):AF1QipMwUOQGo6CW0DOOUME6d6e6APeKSqCOYhD5D8rw

(Click):AF1QipOwcMWQyzlF48PlWM89j45j8n21fnjgA94CCVB-

I have two 8D batteries for my thrusters (Bow & Stern) and the fuse is on the wall with the thruster charger. So there is no way the resettable fuse that is by the generator battery would be connected to the thrusters.

(Click):AF1QipOr1CXOBThCJTxD-KUuacQMNtImu2DaJCjIqhHo

I hope this helps.

Ken
Click to expand...
Ken - I can’t open the attachment on my iPad, I’ll try my laptop tonight, I think one of my spades is out as the little light on my pump switch is out - I bet it’s one of the spades by looking at the wiring diagram. Haven’t had time to crawl back there yet. Glad to know spares are right there!

Thanks!
 
If you are talking about the swim platform beep, it is buried under the aluminum bracket. They hide it so you cannot disconnect it. Mine went out years ago. I had to remove the old one and mount the new one on top of the bracket. If you want I can upload another photo showing how I installed it. It is a real PITA to get to it under the bracket.

Ken
 
missnmountains said:
If you are talking about the swim platform beep, it is buried under the aluminum bracket. They hide it so you cannot disconnect it. Mine went out years ago. I had to remove the old one and mount the new one on top of the bracket. If you want I can upload another photo showing how I installed it. It is a real PITA to get to it under the bracket.

Ken
Click to expand...
I’d love to know where “the bracket” is. I’m going to have to come over and get a personal briefing I think!!
 
missnmountains said:
I have a 140 amp resettable breaker that is hooked up to the house batteries. I believe this is for the swim platform. It is just starboard of the generator battery.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Ken, I'll look for that, trip it, see if that makes the swim platform "chirp" go away. Says 140A, though, and the Parts Manuals suggests the relevant breaker ought to be 100A.

Did you trip yours to see if your swim platform went dead?

Your first pics weren't viewable, but I could see the second batch.

missnmountains said:
There are two spade fuses on the swim platform solenoid. (And two spares)
Click to expand...

Our control box is supposed to have at least 4 and maybe 5 spade fuses, plus a couple spares. At least one of those is not working, but three flash so quickly -- me watching in a mirror -- that I couldn't yet tell which one(s) need replacing. Anyway, that's the next thing I'm supposed to check after determining whether the latching solenoid is working or not.

And of course I don't really want to mess with the solenoid with 100A active.

-Chris
 
Last edited:
techmitch said:
"Series 185 also features a push-to-trip option"
Click to expand...

Yeah... but I haven't found a likely 185 to trip. The one Ken found is PTT, but its 140A so might or might not be related. I'llbe having a look at that soonest.

-Chris
 
carterchapman said:
I’d love to know where “the bracket” is. I’m going to have to come over and get a personal briefing I think!!
Click to expand...

I'm thinking he means the box that covers the solenoids and the blade fuses. In the manual, it's where the "solid state controls" are, big label on top, etc.

Ours is open on one side (the side facing away), with a plexiglass (or similar) cover on that open side. The cover comes off to change fuses. I think. Some of this is guesswork from pics in the manual and from me getting within a couple feet of the thing once. With a mirror aiming back toward the plexi side.

-Chris
 
carterchapman said:
I’d love to know where “the bracket” is. I’m going to have to come over and get a personal briefing I think!!
Click to expand...

Carter,

You are welcome anytime. Come on over. The issue with the OEM alarm is it is bolted down to and through the pump plate. In order to remove it, you have to raise the entire pump. Here is our modification:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9dRGAJNFTWamg3h66

Ken
 
missnmountains said:
I have a 140 amp resettable breaker that is hooked up to the house batteries. I believe this is for the swim platform. It is just starboard of the generator battery.
Click to expand...

We don't have one of those, at least not there.

I did probably prove the 100A Bussman fuse, next to the 80A fuse for the windlass -- just under the main solenoid box and just ahead of the port batteries on the starboard side -- is likely for the swim platform as folks said. Didn't figure out how to trip it gracefully, but I did just remove the wire that I thought (probably) runs from fuse the GHS pump... and the "chirp" went away. Then we tested for current at the GHS pump, dead.

Seems to me maybe replacing the two 184xxx-type fuses with 185xxx PTT version would be a good thing. Unless there's a reason why to not have PTT on these? I'd guess maintenance on the GHS thing will happen from time to time, easily tripping the breaker to work safely would seem useful.

Didn't have any luck figuring out how to bypass the latching solenoid, but did discover a mashup of blade fuse sizes, compared to what's SUPPOSED to be there. All of the installed fuses -- that I checked -- were 3A. Of course these were all opaque, can't tell if blown, and they all have a red outer surface so can't tell what's where by color.

I have the schematic from Rick and the picture from the manual, so I hope to replace all the fuses with what's SUPPOSED to be there -- athough Rick's latest schematic and the pic in the manual differ on a couple of them. Anyway, then I'll check to see if by chance things start working. Couldn't get that done today, maybe tomorrow...

This was all working with a mirror, BTW. It looks like doing anything more detailed will mean unbolting the whole pump platform and rotating it slightly sideways.

-Chris




.
 
Intervening project: Swapping Blinds

The "twirler" (angle adjuster) on our galley blinds -- aft end, way above the countertop -- was a difficult reach for me, and almost impossible for wifey... and we usually find a need to adjust the tilt several times throughout the day depending on sun angle.

So we changed galley and dinette blinds, each to the other side. Wasn't particularly easy, needed a bud to help, but the short version is that it works... at least well enough. The twirlers both end up being easy to reach, the one over the gallery being very much easier now... although a loss is that the riser cord for each is now kinda buried behind the decorative wall "thingies" at the aft ends. (We don't usually need to lift the blinds, so likely not an issue for us.)

Near as I can tell, the blinds are Dometic Oceanair Skyvenetian... and it helps to have their installation diagrams (available on their website). The decorative top boards are mounted with three L-shaped tabs that slide under the headrail, and they'll dismount outward. The headrail is held up by three cam-locks; the slightly visible tabs rotate the cams outward, and then the headrail itself rolls off the tab ears to remove the headrail. (That would make sense if you're seeing the parts. I would actually name the parts correctly if I could, but the installation instructions are wordless diagrams.)

The whole process very likely loses the Guide Wires, or at least ours weren't the same length on either side. (The Guide Wires can probably be replaced with picture-hanger wire since that was the only Guide part that didn't survive the project.)

-Chris
 
missnmountains said:
Yes, but you can get them online much cheaper.

Ken
Click to expand...
So I looked online...didn't have much luck. Do you happen to have a vendor/PN? I assume its a 24V horn and you can get to the wires under the bracket to cut/splice? This is getting tough for a 74 year old!! LOL!
 
missnmountains said:
There’s a bunch on eBay and Amazon. Just do a search for 24 V back up alarm. Cheapest one on eBay is $8.38.

Ken
Click to expand...

Does your hydraulic lift have two horns? One in the engine room and another in the Stern trunk?
 
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