$46-Kicker 10" Marine Subwoofer in Sealed Enclosure

http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2006/product_AUDIO_wof_AWB.htm

This little sub is what I ended up getting (second one down). It's not too expensive and the amp is internal. I installed it in my storage bay back near the engine. Having the amp included really helped my "amp mounting" issues.

It's probably not going to be the final sub/amp for my boat but it's gonna be good for this summer!

I mounted the remote under my dash, it's great! The light looks cool and the ability to control the bass volume is a feature that I'll definitely make sure I continue to have.
 
Morpheus said:
Ok here are the many reasons why you want the amp near the head unit.

1. Power/Ground wire is a lot cheaper then RCA Cables that you will need to run from the head unit to the amp.
2. Your "Wired remote bass level control included" you will want near the head unit or helm so you can control the base volume so you don't want to have to run that from the helm to the battery either especially since it probably has a special connector that you'll be required to buy an extension for only from the Manf. and they will want more boat dollars then you want to spend.
3. I am going to bet the battery area is moister and hotter then under a seat or under the helm of your boat.
4. Instead of running a power and ground from your batteries (2 wires, and make sure you put a big fuse/circuit breaker on that power wire near the battery) you will be running 10 speaker wires from the sub and head unit (since all your speaker wires are run there now) also very long rca cables you will need 3 sets and then also a remote turn on wire from the head unit to the amp. so that's 2 wires vs 8 pairs + 1 single.

Each speaker you connect has 2 wires +/- and your boat probably has 4 speakers already front back left right so that's 8 speaker wires and then your sub will (if one sub) have a pair of wires.

Just PLEASE make sure you fuse that power wire I don't wanna hear later how you had a short that causes a fire that caused your boat to explode or something.

I would go with something like this: http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Sports/Landing983a60778.html
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Not to be the noob and try to correct a long-time member... but...

Also take into consideration the difference between car audio amp installs and boat audio amp installs... that being the length of ground run.

You ALWAYS want to keep your ground wire as short as possible for the best sound (so you're not starving the amp for power). As electricity flows from the ground to the positive.

High quality audio wires (RCA's... something using Twisted pairs) are expensive regardless of length, and I believe where the amp is mounted as concerned to running your speaker leads is trivial if you're doing anything over mono-block amp; you still have to run 2, 3, 4 or 5 leads of which at least half will be of substantial length (typically anyway).

I'll end this by saying, the key to limiting interference with long audio cable runs is with shielded cables (twisted pairs or grounded cables); speaker leads are generally much less susceptible to interference. Power runs; if you MUST run long ground runs, up-size your wire. Where a normal 300-400watt amp would require 6ga, run 4ga... at least on the ground side. 1200-1500 watt amp would normally be okay with high quality 4ga, run AT LEAST 2ga ground, if not full 2ga. This will ensure the amplifier is able to pull as much amps as needed (remember, the longer the run, the higher the resistance, the more voltage loss... all that equals an amp running at below peak efficiency, loosing it's S/N ratio and power output).


Oh yeah... almost forgot... when I installed my stereo, I got the woofer, minus box for about $50; it's a single voice coil and works well enough, but it is far from the best marine sub out there... I'll be replacing it with a Wet Sounds 10" woofer running dual 4ohm voice coils which will work much better in my .7 cu ft. sealed enclosure than this kicker does (it's intended for a 1cu ft sealed enclosure... hey, a 160 has serious space limitations!)
 
I mounted the first sub and took pictures yesterday. I'll try to post later today. On the Stb side of the front of the engine room above the battery bank facing up. The outboard side is mounted firm with the mounting bracket supplied. The inboard side is suspended from two mounting screws using a heavy duty line in a triangular pattern like a suspension bridge.

Some may find this aspect a little cheesey, but it's quite secure and sounds much better than it did sitting lower in the ER. I'll be mounting the other one the same way on the opposite side.

So, the cockpit will have 2 MB Quart Premium 6.5" speakers, 2 Bose outdoor speakers hanging from the arch, 2 of the original speakers down low, and 2 10" subs beneath the floor. Right now, with one sub, it really sounds as perfect as any system I have ever heard. It brings a tear to my eye to know that it's mine and I did the work - with the help of you guys, of course.
 
I'm getting ready to start this project. I bought a 4 ga. amp wiring kit at PepBoys, but I'm having trouble finding a long (20') 4 ga. ground wire. The typical audio stores do not have anything that long. Any ideas where I can find one?

Also, what is the recommended speaker wire ga. for the sub?
 
Try one of the online car audio shops, or your local car audio shop. Pep Boys and similar stores won't have anything like that.
 
charlg said:
I'm getting ready to start this project. I bought a 4 ga. amp wiring kit at PepBoys, but I'm having trouble finding a long (20') 4 ga. ground wire. The typical audio stores do not have anything that long. Any ideas where I can find one?

Also, what is the recommended speaker wire ga. for the sub?
Click to expand...

You will definitly find it online but as far as local you'll need to find a small car audio store the big stores like Best Buy, Circuit City, etc won't have it. The smaller guys will sell it to you by the foot in just about any gage you need.
 
Home Depot wire rack - by the foot.

I used doubled-up 16 ga wire. Couldn't find anything with large enough guage in long enough lengths.
 
Hampton said:
Home Depot wire rack - by the foot.

I used doubled-up 16 ga wire. Couldn't find anything with large enough guage in long enough lengths.
Click to expand...

:smt021 Dang why wasn't I thinking that forgot that the big box hardware stores sell wire by the foot DUH! Thanks :thumbsup: probably cheaper there then a car audio place as well.
 
I should have my boat back in a few weeks and will be working on this install. I was thinking about the compartment in front of the helm. Anyone have any ideas how to hang this beast? Seems like a lot of weight to hang from the wall.
 
I'm 99% done with my install. I went to the local car audio shop and got all of the wiring, circuit breaker, and the ends, for $100. I put the sub under the port lounger facing forward and mounted it to the wall (opposite the battery compartment). It fit there perfectly snug. I installed the amp under the cockpit sink, next to the trash bucket. That is about the half way point from the battery to the head unit. From the amp it was 15' to the battery, 20' to the sub, and 12' to the head unit. I just need a couple of more ends, and to mount the amp on the wall, and I'm done. And I ordered a remote control to put near the stereo. I'll post some pics later this week.
 
Can't wait to see it.

I'll be keeping my speak and amp in the helm storage area near the radio so I'll be running the power and ground from the batteries on the port side all the way around.

The way your describing your boat it sound like your batteries are on your starboard side and your sink and head are on the port side.
 
Morpheus said:
The way your describing your boat it sound like your batteries are on your starboard side and your sink and head are on the port side.
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Sorry for the confusion. I'm sure my floor plan s the same as yours. So, let me try this again....the sub is under the lounger, and the amp is under the sink.
 
charlg said:
Sorry for the confusion. I'm sure my floor plan s the same as yours. So, let me try this again....the sub is under the lounger, and the amp is under the sink.
Click to expand...

Ok then your sub is under the lounge in front of where your batteries are (Port Side) and the amp is under the sink across on the starboard side.

When you ran the power from the batteries from port to starboard how did you run it? I noticed all my wiring runs along the transomwall in the bildge and there is no way for me to reach it via the hatch so I'm woudering if there is some way to take something off that will let me access the transomwall to run the power and ground wire around the back of the boat.
 
Morpheus said:
Ok then your sub is under the lounge in front of where your batteries are (Port Side) and the amp is under the sink across on the starboard side.

When you ran the power from the batteries from port to starboard how did you run it? I noticed all my wiring runs along the transomwall in the bildge and there is no way for me to reach it via the hatch so I'm woudering if there is some way to take something off that will let me access the transomwall to run the power and ground wire around the back of the boat.
Click to expand...

It wasn't easy. I basically had to climb over the engine. I ran the speaker wire along the same run with the water line (blue hose) that ran high on the wall behind the engine. Then, ran the ground and power for the amp with the power line that runs from the batteries to the left side of the engine and up past the water tank into the sink cabinet. You'll need plenty of wire ties....and some acrobatic skills.
 
You must be skinny or small I could never fit over the top of the engine to reach the wall, I see how the front wall where the hatch closes comes off with a couple of screws it seems that there must be a way to open that back up somehow. If they had to remove the engine I can't see it coming out the whole.
 
THe install is complete. Sounds great. Sub $45, amp $25, and wiring with breaker $100. Not too bad.
 
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