40 sedan bridge forum

Roger baril said:
Hi everyone on this sedan bridge forum we own 2002 and had our entire bridge canvas replaced we still have the old canvas color is tweed is in fair condition we will probably never use it if anyone can put this top in use we are willing to give it away
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Where are you &/or the canvas located?
 
We are here in New England Cumberland RI
 
Drafter said:
I have a wifi / bluetooth temperature sensor system on board that allows me to monitor temps wherever on the boat with wifi at the dock from my phone at home, and via bluetooth to my phone when under way. I can set high and low temp alerts for each sensor puck to let me know that my engine room is getting too warm on a hot day, and shut off my generator to cool things off. It's called Sensor Push. I keep sensor pucks in the main cabin, the engine room, the refrigerator, and front V-berth. These let me know that my refrigerator has stayed on all week while I was away without a loss of power, and that my bilge heaters are heating my engine room this time of year.
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Where have you been hiding this gem? I don’t know that I would use it often in season but for monitoring the boat now this is a great solution! I’m sure once you start using these sensors, you find more applications, too. I looked them over a bit today and am going to read about them more tomorrow. Which actual sensors are you using?

Good thing though: the gateways are on back order due to supply chain issues. So perhaps I won’t be dropping any boat bucks on these gems until next off season. Great tip, though!
 
scooper321 said:
Where have you been hiding this gem? I don’t know that I would use it often in season but for monitoring the boat now this is a great solution! I’m sure once you start using these sensors, you find more applications, too. I looked them over a bit today and am going to read about them more tomorrow. Which actual sensors are you using?

Good thing though: the gateways are on back order due to supply chain issues. So perhaps I won’t be dropping any boat bucks on these gems until next off season. Great tip, though!
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Steve, I've been using the basic $50 pucks. I move them around as needed. Temperature and humidity only. Late in the season, I place one in the anchor locker. My bow sticks out about 3' from my covered slip. I feel like if any water lines got cold enough to freeze, that the anchor wash down line would probably be the first to do so.
 
Planning to haul my boat for a bottom job in the next week or two. Also planning to pull the props to have them re-conditioned and balanced. Getting a little vibration out of the port. I'm intending to build a couple of shipping crates for them this weekend using 1/2"x2'x2' plywood with 1x6 sandwiched between them. Anyone have any idea of the depth of our props at the hub? Is 5 1/2" of clearance enough? Also any prop shop recs? Was planning to use General Propeller in Bradenton, Florida. Got a price back at $355 each plus shipping. My window out of the water will be short, so trying to get ahead of it, so that they can be shipped the same day.
 

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Drafter said:
Planning to haul my boat for a bottom job in the next week or two. Also planning to pull the props to have them re-conditioned and balanced. Getting a little vibration out of the port. I'm intending to build a couple of shipping crates for them this weekend using 1/2"x2'x2' plywood with 1x6 sandwiched between them. Anyone have any idea of the depth of our props at the hub? Is 5 1/2" of clearance enough? Also any prop shop recs? Was planning to use General Propeller in Bradenton, Florida. Got a price back at $355 each plus shipping. My window out of the water will be short, so trying to get ahead of it, so that they can be shipped the same day.
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Can't help with your question but your prop nuts are incorrectly installed.
 
Drafter said:
Steve, I've been using the basic $50 pucks. I move them around as needed. Temperature and humidity only. Late in the season, I place one in the anchor locker. My bow sticks out about 3' from my covered slip. I feel like if any water lines got cold enough to freeze, that the anchor wash down line would probably be the first to do so.
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Just curious- before you do all that have you checked your shaft bearings? I mean most of the time if the props look good and the shaft bearing is loose... you know?
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
Just curious- before you do all that have you checked your shaft bearings? I mean most of the time if the props look good and the shaft bearing is loose... you know?
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Yes, thanks Jason. I thought that it might be the cutlass bearings myself at first. I had it hauled 2 years ago for this same thing. The marina that I used was ridiculous. The bearings appear to be tight and fine. The prop was sent off to a local guy to beat on which achieved nothing. Charged me $500 to get one prop removed and re-installed, another $100 to "lube" the cutlass bearing (I know), the haulout fee, "prop" work, etc... Mitch, thanks for that catch. I think that I did know that the smaller nut went on first, and the larger was the jamb nut behind it. Never really noticed that before. That pic was from the haulout when I bought the boat, which tells me that the props had been off at least once before. Or they were installed incorrectly when initially fitted out locally. I assume that they don't ship these new with props installed. This is why I want to send the props to Florida or somewhere on the East coast to someone that knows what they're doing on big boat props, and not a local shop. It's possible that I've got a bent shaft but I doubt it. I would think anything large enough to bend a shaft would also destroy a prop. No groundings, but possibly floating debris like a 2x4 or log during a high water event. I plan to run it in the yard for a minute on the hose with the prop off to see if the vibration disappears. The vibration is causing my transmission rear seal to drip. That seal has been replaced, but still drips at rpm's over 2000 (gas).
 
ZZ13 said:
I put the sender back in and the float still sank to the bottom. So two new 19” KUS senders are in order.
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Replacing the failed starboard sender today. This picture is me float testing it to make sure the gauge matches the float position. Only tricky part is putting new connectors on the existing wiring. I replaced the power connector with a male blade connector. The ground already had a female blade connector on it. Then I put matching connectors on the sender wires. Best to do any supply wire connection changes from in the engine room. Wire is right there at the edge of the tank. You can’t get two hands in the access hole to do the work.
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Is anyone using rope anchor rode with the low profile Lofrans Progress 1 windlass?

If yes, what diameter?
 

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Brian Wert said:
Is anyone using rope anchor rode with the low profile Lofrans Progress 1 windlass?

If yes, what diameter?
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As said, oem is 5/8”.
I had rope/chain on my 360DA and when it came time to replace it I talked to Imtra and they instead recommended 9/16. They said it gives up very little in working load limit to 5/8” and the slightly smaller size makes the rope/chain splice go through the Gypsies so much better.
My experience was that they were spot on.
Now my 400DB had all chain as an option from the factory and after using that for 9 years, there is no way I would ever go back to rope rode again. Just my opinion.
 
I just replaced my rode this year when I got a new anchor. After 18 years the rope splice was ridiculously stiff and would no longer pass through the finger without assistance. I opted to stay with a mixed rode so I didn’t have to worry about snubbers or bridles or anything but I doubled the amount of chain. So now I’m running 50 feet of 5/16 inch G4 chain spliced to 200 feet of 5/8” 8 strand. It passes through the windlass flawlessly.
 
techmitch said:
Can't help with your question but your prop nuts are incorrectly installed.
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Interesting, my props have the small nut on the outside also. What’s the rational behind the large nut being on the outside and what’s the risk of leaving mine as is
 
Pgeee said:
Interesting, my props have the small nut on the outside also. What’s the rational behind the large nut being on the outside and what’s the risk of leaving mine as is
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My opinion is no risk and that this is one of those things people use to show you how smart they are. Yes, technically the outer nut would be a better distribution of the forces, but not enough to make any difference in safety. My boat has had the small nut on last for both props for twenty years. I challenge anyone to find one documented case where this configuration caused a problem.

Here is the passionate technical explanation. Although it ends stating it’s not important because there is not much force on the nuts anyway.
https://www.seattleyachts.com/news/clearing-up-the-confusion-of-prop-nuts
 
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ZZ13 said:
My opinion is no risk and that this is one of those things people use to show you how smart they are. Yes, technically the outer nut would be a better distribution of the forces, but not enough to make any difference in safety. My boat has had the small nut on last for both props for twenty years. I challenge anyone to find one documented case where this configuration caused a problem.

Here is the passionate technical explanation. Although it ends stating it’s not important because there is not much force on the nuts anyway.
https://www.seattleyachts.com/news/clearing-up-the-confusion-of-prop-nuts
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I'm not going to go back and find all of the links that I had posted but I know I have read several articles from astute sources that shaft fractures, have many times been attributed to improper prop seating, key/keyway wear, condition and proper prop nut clamping force.
@ttmott
 
Njlarry said:
What's your secret to keeping the rope from slipping? Chewed up a section on mine first time we used it.
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No secret. But I did soak the rope completely through and through before installing it. I routed it from the anchor pulpit to the windlass and down into the locker. Then I pulled in the new, wet rope and chain with the windlass. With it wet, it came through easily and laid down in the locked without tangling.
 
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