40 sedan bridge forum

[scooper321]

Cool, something new.What is the purpose of soaking the line, is it just to help it lay flat or something else? First I've heard of this.

it does help it lay flat in the locker. I’d say if the windlass is spinning on your line, however, the issue is probably your spring finger. It’s either worn itself or the spring is worn out. Have your replaced them?

 

[ZZ13]

I'm not going to go back and find all of the links that I had posted but I know I have read several articles from astute sources that shaft fractures, have many times been attributed to improper prop seating, key/keyway wear, condition and proper prop nut clamping force.
@ttmott

No argument with that. That’s many different factors. I just think with everything else done right, which nut goes on first isn’t going to make a meaningful difference. But the science says put the big nut on last so that’s probably the best. Interestingly, I’ve been hauled by four different boat yards. Two here in SC and two in FL. Every time they put the small not on last and every boat in their yard had the small nut last. I have no idea why they do that and I’ve never thought much about it to ask. I’ll ask my yard here today when I’m there to help a friend get hauled.

 

[ttmott]

No argument with that. That’s many different factors. I just think with everything else done right, which nut goes on first isn’t going to make a meaningful difference. But the science says put the big nut on last so that’s probably the best. Interestingly, I’ve been hauled by four different boat yards. Two here in SC and two in FL. Every time they put the small not on last and every boat in their yard had the small nut last. I have no idea why they do that and I’ve never thought much about it to ask. I’ll ask my yard here today when I’m there to help a friend get hauled.

The prop nut arrangement is all about reducing risk and gaining structural margin. Ya gotta watch those marina yards; they will also simply slap the prop over the key and bolt it up. They don't pay their top mechanics to install props.... A knowledgeable owner or the owner's trusted mechanic being there for these important assemblies is essential. One haulout for my boat the "technician" was hammering the scraper into the props; he didn't know any better other than the management set a timeline to scrape the bottom. I'm sure my subsequent discussion with the management went in one ear and out the other.
So, I think the message is - to assume the marina shops do the work correctly, with the correct tools, and skills would be a bad assumption.

 

[Njlarry]

it does help it lay flat in the locker. I’d say if the windlass is spinning on your line, however, the issue is probably your spring finger. It’s either worn itself or the spring is worn out. Have your replaced them?

They were replaced by the po, seem to be in good shape.

 

[JASON P GRIFFITH]

Yes, thanks Jason. I thought that it might be the cutlass bearings myself at first. I had it hauled 2 years ago for this same thing. The marina that I used was ridiculous. The bearings appear to be tight and fine. The prop was sent off to a local guy to beat on which achieved nothing. Charged me $500 to get one prop removed and re-installed, another $100 to "lube" the cutlass bearing (I know), the haulout fee, "prop" work, etc... Mitch, thanks for that catch. I think that I did know that the smaller nut went on first, and the larger was the jamb nut behind it. Never really noticed that before. That pic was from the haulout when I bought the boat, which tells me that the props had been off at least once before. Or they were installed incorrectly when initially fitted out locally. I assume that they don't ship these new with props installed. This is why I want to send the props to Florida or somewhere on the East coast to someone that knows what they're doing on big boat props, and not a local shop. It's possible that I've got a bent shaft but I doubt it. I would think anything large enough to bend a shaft would also destroy a prop. No groundings, but possibly floating debris like a 2x4 or log during a high water event. I plan to run it in the yard for a minute on the hose with the prop off to see if the vibration disappears. The vibration is causing my transmission rear seal to drip. That seal has been replaced, but still drips at rpm's over 2000 (gas).

For NE I cannot stress the best of the best is H and H prop. would not use anyone else... https://www.hhprop.com/

 

[Brian Wert]

Has anyone replaced the mirrors on the medicine cabinet doors in the head?

Ours are getting “antiqued”.

We stopped by a few local shops and other than “have new doors made” we have not gotten anywhere.

 

[my3sons]

I have not had those replaced but I did replace one mirror on a hanging locker in the master. For that and some other projects in the past I used an outfit that specialized in custom build glass bath enclosures and shower doors. Might be worth a shot.

 

[Hat Trick]

I have a 2003 Sedan bridge, previously had a 340 Sedan bridge. The PO mostly used the boat as a day boat so a lot is original, including the TV's. I've seen a lot of replacements that don't really look like quality, e.g. held in place by a bungee cord. Thinking of removing the cabinet, which probably means resurfacing that entire bulkhead, right? Also considering removing the sofa and installing a TV lift cabinet to get a bigger screen. That may mean covering the AC vent when the TV is up. Can that vent be relocated? Any other suggestions from those who have redesigned the starboard bulkhead/floor plan in the salon?

 

[ZZ13]

I have a 2003 Sedan bridge, previously had a 340 Sedan bridge. The PO mostly used the boat as a day boat so a lot is original, including the TV's. I've seen a lot of replacements that don't really look like quality, e.g. held in place by a bungee cord. Thinking of removing the cabinet, which probably means resurfacing that entire bulkhead, right? Also considering removing the sofa and installing a TV lift cabinet to get a bigger screen. That may mean covering the AC vent when the TV is up. Can that vent be relocated? Any other suggestions from those who have redesigned the starboard bulkhead/floor plan in the salon?

Sounds like you really want to take out that TV cabinet. But in case you don’t, there are a lot of us that have really nice flat panel installs replacing the factory tv, creating a nice storage behind the panel. You just need a swing arm tv mount and a latch on the other side of the opening. Pretty straight forward to design and install and make it look nice. 32” TV is a nice natural look. Some have made it work with 36” TV.

I don’t know of anyone who has moved the main register, so can’t help there.

 

[Steve S]

Sounds like you really want to take out that TV cabinet. But in case you don’t, there are a lot of us that have really nice flat panel installs replacing the factory tv, creating a nice storage behind the panel. You just need a swing arm tv mount and a latch on the other side of the opening. Pretty straight forward to design and install and make it look nice. 32” TV is a nice natural look. Some have made it work with 36” TV.

I don’t know of anyone who has moved the main register, so can’t help there.

I went with a 40" TV over the "dog house".

 

[ZZ13]

I went with a 40" TV over the "dog house".

You da man!

 

[Steve S]

If anyone knows where I can get the seat for the cockpit, please let me know. I would be interested in finding one.

 

[scooper321]

If anyone knows where I can get the seat for the cockpit, please let me know. I would be interested in finding one.

Are you looking for an exact match? There are a number of boat seats available that you can get to replace the OEM one. If you need one, maybe replace both? There’s a recent thread in CSR showing a helm remodel that lists a number of nice seat brands. I’ll see if I can find it. If I needed a new helm seat, I might replace both instead of getting an exact OEM match.

Edit: here’s the thread and the post about seats
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/thinking-of-a-bridge-remodel.107545/#post-1283284

 

[Steve S]

Are you looking for an exact match? There are a number of boat seats available that you can get to replace the OEM one. If you need one, maybe replace both? There’s a recent thread in CSR showing a helm remodel that lists a number of nice seat brands. I’ll see if I can find it. If I needed a new helm seat, I might replace both instead of getting an exact OEM match.

Edit: here’s the thread and the post about seats
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/thinking-of-a-bridge-remodel.107545/#post-1283284

Steve, the seat for the cockpit is a fiberglass shell bench seat that mounts against the transom. Not a free standing seat.

 

[scooper321]

Steve, the seat for the cockpit is a fiberglass shell bench seat that mounts against the transom. Not a free standing seat.

my bad. I wasn’t seeing cockpit. I was thinking helm!

 

[Brian Wert]

I have a 2003 Sedan bridge, previously had a 340 Sedan bridge. The PO mostly used the boat as a day boat so a lot is original, including the TV's. I've seen a lot of replacements that don't really look like quality, e.g. held in place by a bungee cord. Thinking of removing the cabinet, which probably means resurfacing that entire bulkhead, right? Also considering removing the sofa and installing a TV lift cabinet to get a bigger screen. That may mean covering the AC vent when the TV is up. Can that vent be relocated? Any other suggestions from those who have redesigned the starboard bulkhead/floor plan in the salon?

There are a lot of good/creative examples of people removing the tv box on this forum as well as on YachtWorld. We are currently in the middle of this project and will probably leave the original bulkhead fabric as it is cleaning up well. Not easily but, well.

I took a look at the register in the starboard bulkhead today and do not see why you couldn’t move it. It’s just flexible ducting led to the register box. I suppose you could move it higher or reroute it through the custom tv cabinet you mentioned.

Good luck! I’d love to see pictures if it’s something you do tackle.

 

[Hat Trick]

Thanks to all for suggestions. My goal is for a larger screen to accommodate those with low vision, so moving the AC vent down and or forward might help. Still in planning stages as I don't have access to the boat for another couple of months. "Ice out" is usually the third week of April and then the marinas scramble for a few weeks to get thousands of boats launched. The emphasis then is to fix the problems that were unexpected before launch. I have a marine electrician/electronics specialist who is ready to go, the question is cabinet work.

 

[scooper321]

Do your dash instruments light up at night? Are they backlit? I know originally the helm switches had a light strip that illuminated them and could be dimmed. Mine mine fell apart so i have no illumination there. But I also don't think my instruments light up either. What have you guys done to improve the lighting of the helm controls/instruments?

Night time pictures with your explanations would be gold!

 

[ZZ13]

Do your dash instruments light up at night? Are they backlit? I know originally the helm switches had a light strip that illuminated them and could be dimmed. Mine mine fell apart so i have no illumination there. But I also don't think my instruments light up either. What have you guys done to improve the lighting of the helm controls/instruments?

Night time pictures with your explanations would be gold!

Well. Mine was an adventure. My switch backlights went dead. So I replaced the existing transformer and el light with a new transformer and el light (the wire lighting behind the switches is ac and the transformer converts the 12v DC to the AC the wire needs). Was really cheap. Like $20 total. Lights quit working after one summer season. Had bought three EL strings of different colors so I tried the next color. Same thing - one summer then dead. Guess it didn’t like the heat. In process I accidentally shorted out the dimmer module. So I started over. I pulled out the dimmer module and just wired the 12v backlight wire from the Nav light switch to an led light that I mounted under the helm and aimed it at the back of the switches. So, I can’t dim it but don’t care. I need max illumination anyway when they are on.

if your gauges aren’t lighting up then your dimmer module may be dead.

 

[scooper321]

Well. Mine was an adventure. My switch backlights went dead. So I replaced the existing transformer and el light with a new transformer and el light (the wire lighting behind the switches is ac and the transformer converts the 12v DC to the AC the wire needs). Was really cheap. Like $20 total. Lights quit working after one summer season. Had bought three EL strings of different colors so I tried the next color. Same thing - one summer then dead. Guess it didn’t like the heat. In process I accidentally shorted out the dimmer module. So I started over. I pulled out the dimmer module and just wired the 12v backlight wire from the Nav light switch to an led light that I mounted under the helm and aimed it at the back of the switches. So, I can’t dim it but don’t care. I need max illumination anyway when they are on.

if your gauges aren’t lighting up then your dimmer module may be dead.

Thanks. And you’re right , it may be the dimmer. But my EL backlight is also toast. Let me restate that. It’s gone. The foil that held it on fell apart and it came off the back of the panel. It’s a mess. So I need to clean that out. I like the idea of an LED strips. Those can be dimmed with by a variable resistor (or dimmer switch). Wonder if Carling makes a switch with a built in varistor? The switch lighting is the easier thing in my mind.

So the instruments are illuminated from AC too?