40 sedan bridge forum

techmitch said:
Was that mid 2004? I ask because I see Mr. Griffith is listed as having a 2004 40 DB.
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Yes, both the 400 and 420 were sold as 2004 models. I don’t know if any of the 2004 400s actually were built in calendar year 2004.
 
ZZ13 said:
Might have done that in the 420 Sedan Bridge, which replaced the 400 in 2004.
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Probably did when they used the 480CE engines - the first with electronic control and an ECU. The Diamonds have no "smarts" like an ECU to collect status and transmit over a network.
 
ZZ13 said:
Yes, both the 400 and 420 were sold as 2004 models. I don’t know if any of the 2004 400s actually were built in calendar year 2004.
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Someone around here has an 04 400. He mentions it from time to time when people question him on his signature. But for the life of me I don't remember who it was...
 
Bilge blower thoughts?

1) Both pulling air out of the bilge (i.e. both on exhaust).

- OR -

2) One pulling air out (i.e. exhaust) and one pulling air in (i.e. return).

TBO - I hadn’t thought about it at all until a conversation with a dock mate yesterday.
 
Brian Wert said:
Bilge blower thoughts?

1) Both pulling air out of the bilge (i.e. both on exhaust).

- OR -

2) One pulling air out (i.e. exhaust) and one pulling air in (i.e. return).

TBO - I hadn’t thought about it at all until a conversation with a dock mate yesterday.
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Don't they normally blow out (exhaust)? That seems to be the right approach, as you want to exhaust the stale, potentially dangerous (?) air OUT of the bilge. Having both fans exhausting will create a low pressure inside the bilge (can we call it a "vacuum"?) which will draw are in from the outside. The bilge is far from air tight and we have vents as well, so it's very easy (IMO) for fresh air to be drawn into the bilge from outside. I prefer having the maximum effort being used to exhaust the stale air as I am confident fresh air will easily be drawn in its' place.

I understand the logic of thinking about one fan pulling in and one fan exhausting. And if the bilge were air tight, that could make sense. But it's not, so I think a fan drawing air in would be a wasted fan. Again, our vents are pretty darn big!
 
scooper321 said:
Don't they normally blow out (exhaust)? That seems to be the right approach, as you want to exhaust the stale, potentially dangerous (?) air OUT of the bilge. Having both fans exhausting will create a low pressure inside the bilge (can we call it a "vacuum"?) which will draw are in from the outside. The bilge is far from air tight and we have vents as well, so it's very easy (IMO) for fresh air to be drawn into the bilge from outside. I prefer having the maximum effort being used to exhaust the stale air as I am confident fresh air will easily be drawn in its' place.

I understand the logic of thinking about one fan pulling in and one fan exhausting. And if the bilge were air tight, that could make sense. But it's not, so I think a fan drawing air in would be a wasted fan. Again, our vents are pretty darn big!
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Both on exhaust just “feels” right. I think your comment about the size of the vents is accurate. I have never felt like there was a vacuum created from running them both on exhaust.
 
techmitch said:
Was that mid 2004? I ask because I see Mr. Griffith is listed as having a 2004 40 DB.
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I was told by the factory I was one of 6 to 8 built in 04. One is for sale in South Portland ME currently. Sorry for the delayed response. I am not getting e-mails from CSR when there is activity.
 
Brian Wert said:
Both on exhaust just “feels” right. I think your comment about the size of the vents is accurate. I have never felt like there was a vacuum created from running them both on exhaust.
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I like the Push - pull method for the blowers as it is more smooth in circulating the air. I also like to leave my blowers running for about 10 minutes after I power down the engines. I find it 1 cools off the engine room by a couple degrees and in turn helps with cabin temp (even if by a little)
 
My Westerbeke generator works fine, but the salon panel has as we know usually no more than the start/stop button, no oil or temp gauges there. So say the oil pressure or temp goes awry, I won’t know unless I have the stern hatch open and peer in at the gauges on the unit. I assume no alarms are present either . Any solutions anyone has utilised or considered
 
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Correct but the generator has built in sensors for overheat or low oil and will shut down. You will get a generator warning tone and message on the bridge. Since we usually run the gen while away from the panel and bridge not sure a remote gauge set up would be worth the effort or not?
 
ah, thanks for that, I didn't realise there were sensors and alarms. That pushes the concept of a remote gauge system well down the to do list
 
Brian Wert said:
Bilge blower thoughts?

1) Both pulling air out of the bilge (i.e. both on exhaust).

- OR -

2) One pulling air out (i.e. exhaust) and one pulling air in (i.e. return).

TBO - I hadn’t thought about it at all until a conversation with a dock mate yesterday.
Click to expand...
Brian, I have a 98 with Horizons. Mine are 454 mags which are 7.4L. I questioned the exhaust blower thing too thinking at one time that one pulling in and the other exhausting out might be good for fresh air. You definitely want to have them both exhaust out. As stated above, they will create a vacuum and pull fresh air in to replace what is exhausted naturally. Pulling in extra fresh air in an already potentially explosive situation with gas potentially adds to a much bigger situation. If we are anchored out on a hot day with the gen running for several hours, my port engine will not stay running from starving for fresh air while idling out of a cove. Once underway and with some good airflow passing the vents, this goes away. It probably has something to do with the cool fuel module on that side which looks to be a complete bastard to deal with or replace. It only happens on the hottest days, and I can usually alleviate most of it by popping the lazerette hatch to allow more fresh air in while I idle out.
 
Drafter said:
Brian, I have a 98 with Horizons. Mine are 454 mags which are 7.4L. I questioned the exhaust blower thing too thinking at one time that one pulling in and the other exhausting out might be good for fresh air. You definitely want to have them both exhaust out. As stated above, they will create a vacuum and pull fresh air in to replace what is exhausted naturally. Pulling in extra fresh air in an already potentially explosive situation with gas potentially adds to a much bigger situation. If we are anchored out on a hot day with the gen running for several hours, my port engine will not stay running from starving for fresh air while idling out of a cove. Once underway and with some good airflow passing the vents, this goes away. It probably has something to do with the cool fuel module on that side which looks to be a complete bastard to deal with or replace. It only happens on the hottest days, and I can usually alleviate most of it by popping the lazerette hatch to allow more fresh air in while I idle out.
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There was a lot of work done on the port engine fuel system right before we took possession. Your assessment of accessing/replacing the port side fuel cooler is 100% accurate.

I wonder if the stall issue could possibly be an issue with the IAC sensor or air temp sensor such that the ECM does not properly adjust? Both of those would be much easier to access on the port engine.

I was told that the MPI should “never” stall. But, like you, I’ve found that not to be true.
 
Brian Wert said:
There was a lot of work done on the port engine fuel system right before we took possession. Your assessment of accessing/replacing the port side fuel cooler is 100% accurate.

I wonder if the stall issue could possibly be an issue with the IAC sensor or air temp sensor such that the ECM does not properly adjust? Both of those would be much easier to access on the port engine.

I was told that the MPI should “never” stall. But, like you, I’ve found that not to be true.
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Stalling at lower RPM is a symptom of a bad IAC. Makes docking fun! That’s how my 5.7 behaved in my prior 320DA when my IAC died. BUT, it was also accompanied by a constant shrill engine alarm. So if it was an IAC issue, I’d expect an alarm to be sounding. Still, it’s an easy swap to do and you probably have a spare on hand. So try that first. But it may very well be a fuel issue. Do those engines have the infamous Cool Fuel modules that the paint wears off inside and clogs them?
 
scooper321 said:
Stalling at lower RPM is a symptom of a bad IAC. Makes docking fun! That’s how my 5.7 behaved in my prior 320DA when my IAC died. BUT, it was also accompanied by a constant shrill engine alarm. So if it was an IAC issue, I’d expect an alarm to be sounding. Still, it’s an easy swap to do and you probably have a spare on hand. So try that first. But it may very well be a fuel issue. Do those engines have the infamous Cool Fuel modules that the paint wears off inside and clogs them?
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Thanks! The Cool Fuel Module service bulletin I found does not look like it would apply to Drafter or my engines. But obviously good to know.
 
Brian Wert said:
There was a lot of work done on the port engine fuel system right before we took possession. Your assessment of accessing/replacing the port side fuel cooler is 100% accurate.

I wonder if the stall issue could possibly be an issue with the IAC sensor or air temp sensor such that the ECM does not properly adjust? Both of those would be much easier to access on the port engine.

I was told that the MPI should “never” stall. But, like you, I’ve found that not to be true.
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I don't think it's the IAC valve in this instance. It's been my experience that when the IAC valve goes, it's more of an issue of keeping the engine running as you drop back to idle as Steve said. Always a good time while docking. I've replaced the IAC twice on my starborad engine, and once on my neighbor's 400DA a couple of slips over. It is a relatively cheap part. I don't love changing them out, but would consider doing it if it solved my stalling issue on a hot day. I'm pretty sure it's a temporary vapor lock thing though. I have a wifi / bluetooth temperature sensor system on board that allows me to monitor temps wherever on the boat with wifi at the dock from my phone at home, and via bluetooth to my phone when under way. I can set high and low temp alerts for each sensor puck to let me know that my engine room is getting too warm on a hot day, and shut off my generator to cool things off. It's called Sensor Push. I keep sensor pucks in the main cabin, the engine room, the refrigerator, and front V-berth. These let me know that my refrigerator has stayed on all week while I was away without a loss of power, and that my bilge heaters are heating my engine room this time of year.
 
Hi everyone on this sedan bridge forum we own 2002 and had our entire bridge canvas replaced we still have the old canvas color is tweed is in fair condition we will probably never use it if anyone can put this top in use we are willing to give it away
 
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