40 sedan bridge forum

Drafter said:
I think I could actually leave that engine on and just keep it in neutral at idle to flow water through the dripless if I had to. Everything is neutral at this point, and the shaft spins in forward and reverse as well. My mechanic is 8 or 9 miles away, but he's offered to come over and replace it in my slip with me. I think it's around 109 pounds. Wonder if I need to rig up some sort of sturdy A frame/sawhorse to lower it down into the lazerette with a come a long or chain hoist? Or can you manhandle one in and out? Has anyone done it?
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I posted this recently on a generator install in a different boat type. It might give you some ideas on a gantry.
Post in thread '40 sedan bridge forum'
https://clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/40-sedan-bridge-forum.53961/post-1452573
 
Anyone know where the hydraulic assist pump is for the ray marine auto-pilot? Never noticed it...
 
Hey guys, does anyone know where I might find this. Tried Taco and FPM
 

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Can you point me to where I could find a drawing of a SeaRay 400 Sedan Bridge (ours is a 2001)? A relative asked us if we had a drawing of the boat. I believe they are making a gift of a wood tray or plaque and want something they can scan into their cnc machine or to Woodburn it. I have no clue where to begin looking for this.
 
mike1234 said:
Can you point me to where I could find a drawing of a SeaRay 400 Sedan Bridge (ours is a 2001)? A relative asked us if we had a drawing of the boat. I believe they are making a gift of a wood tray or plaque and want something they can scan into their cnc machine or to Woodburn it. I have no clue where to begin looking for this.
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Go to SeaRay.com. Look up the manuals. There is a line drawing for dimensions in the owners manual or supplement.
 
mike1234 said:
Can you point me to where I could find a drawing of a SeaRay 400 Sedan Bridge (ours is a 2001)? A relative asked us if we had a drawing of the boat. I believe they are making a gift of a wood tray or plaque and want something they can scan into their cnc machine or to Woodburn it. I have no clue where to begin looking for this.
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Graphic.jpg

I drew mine a couple of years ago in Autocad which was nothing more than a trace of a photo that I had for some t-shirts that we had made up to hand out to friends. You're welcome to the original CAD file if you like, and it wouldn't be a big deal to lose the TV dome, which I'm ditching off of the boat next week anyway. I pulled my radar mast off years ago. Didn't need it, and killed the beautiful lines of the boat. Also attached is SeaRay's drawing of the overall without a bimini that could be easily manipulated with photoshop. Sure would be cool to have a copy of the original manufacturing drawings of a 400 to frame. Not like they're going to build anything again that looks like a beautifully designed boat instead of a clothes iron.
 

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Has anyone replaced their shore power inlets and switched from the threaded locking ring to a Smart Plug inlet?

A recent insurance survey showed just the very beginnings of some discoloration on one of the boat’s shore power inlets. I’m not fooling around with this and so I'm looking to replace the inlet. Probably both.

The easiest would be to put new Marinco inlets in. Probably stainless. And then new shore power cords for the home dock. That’s about $200 per port. I could save a couple bucks by replacing just the power cord female connectors, I guess. But strange thing - I can’t seem to find the EEL connectors on line anywhere. Does Marinco not sell them to be retrofit? And do I want them or do I want the locking ring? I’ve had both and never really had an issue with the thread on rings.

The big advantage of this solution is it’s fast and cheap. And I don’t need to modify or replace travel cords. Those are in nice shape.

But smart plug looks like a smart idea. It would require not only new inlets on the boat, but 4 new connectors that I would retrofit on my home and travel shore power cord sets. Each side is just under $400. Or I could splurge for new home dock SP cords and spend even more money.doing the inlets and retrofitting all four cords (without replacing) would mean almost a boat buck to do both sides. Not much additional work, either. Retrofitting the cable connectors is pretty easy in the scope of boat projects.

My current inlets are original, so 20 years old. Replacing them with the same should get me 20 more years, right? So do I need to go to Smart Plug, or is it a solution that is overkill? Is there any reason, other than money, NOT to switch to Smart Plug?
 
This is the new generator floor with fiberglass top and bottom to add strength and durability. I also added 1/4 inch starboard to the bottom of the generator skegs to allow it to slide out easier when it's time to replace the raw water impeller again.

generator floor.jpg
 
scooper321 said:
Has anyone replaced their shore power inlets and switched from the threaded locking ring to a Smart Plug inlet?

A recent insurance survey showed just the very beginnings of some discoloration on one of the boat’s shore power inlets. I’m not fooling around with this and so I'm looking to replace the inlet. Probably both.

The easiest would be to put new Marinco inlets in. Probably stainless. And then new shore power cords for the home dock. That’s about $200 per port. I could save a couple bucks by replacing just the power cord female connectors, I guess. But strange thing - I can’t seem to find the EEL connectors on line anywhere. Does Marinco not sell them to be retrofit? And do I want them or do I want the locking ring? I’ve had both and never really had an issue with the thread on rings.

The big advantage of this solution is it’s fast and cheap. And I don’t need to modify or replace travel cords. Those are in nice shape.

But smart plug looks like a smart idea. It would require not only new inlets on the boat, but 4 new connectors that I would retrofit on my home and travel shore power cord sets. Each side is just under $400. Or I could splurge for new home dock SP cords and spend even more money.doing the inlets and retrofitting all four cords (without replacing) would mean almost a boat buck to do both sides. Not much additional work, either. Retrofitting the cable connectors is pretty easy in the scope of boat projects.

My current inlets are original, so 20 years old. Replacing them with the same should get me 20 more years, right? So do I need to go to Smart Plug, or is it a solution that is overkill? Is there any reason, other than money, NOT to switch to Smart Plug?
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I don’t know enough about Smartplug to help you. I can tell you that if something on my boat lasts 20 years, I’m buying it again when it needs replacing. “Better is the evil of Good Enough”.
 
scooper321 said:
Has anyone replaced their shore power inlets and switched from the threaded locking ring to a Smart Plug inlet?

A recent insurance survey showed just the very beginnings of some discoloration on one of the boat’s shore power inlets. I’m not fooling around with this and so I'm looking to replace the inlet. Probably both.

The easiest would be to put new Marinco inlets in. Probably stainless. And then new shore power cords for the home dock. That’s about $200 per port. I could save a couple bucks by replacing just the power cord female connectors, I guess. But strange thing - I can’t seem to find the EEL connectors on line anywhere. Does Marinco not sell them to be retrofit? And do I want them or do I want the locking ring? I’ve had both and never really had an issue with the thread on rings.

The big advantage of this solution is it’s fast and cheap. And I don’t need to modify or replace travel cords. Those are in nice shape.

But smart plug looks like a smart idea. It would require not only new inlets on the boat, but 4 new connectors that I would retrofit on my home and travel shore power cord sets. Each side is just under $400. Or I could splurge for new home dock SP cords and spend even more money.doing the inlets and retrofitting all four cords (without replacing) would mean almost a boat buck to do both sides. Not much additional work, either. Retrofitting the cable connectors is pretty easy in the scope of boat projects.

My current inlets are original, so 20 years old. Replacing them with the same should get me 20 more years, right? So do I need to go to Smart Plug, or is it a solution that is overkill? Is there any reason, other than money, NOT to switch to Smart Plug?
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I've been using the EEL cords for quite a while and really like them. Like you, I don't mess with that stuff either. Watched a boat go up from my dock last winter and take 3 others with it over old shore power cords. (pic attached) I would say the largest chance of your boat going up in flames is likely going to be worn out shore power cords slowly corroding away and creating more and more resistance and heat over time. Walk any old dock with old worn out rarely used boats, and you'll see shower power cords with brown heat spots in them all over the place. Last fall, I replaced my 10 year old cords and boat side inlets with new, back to EEL's. I did consider the smart plugs, but opted not to in order to keep it at a more readily available fixture should I ever need to replace something quickly locally.
 

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pistolepete said:
This is the new generator floor with fiberglass top and bottom to add strength and durability. I also added 1/4 inch starboard to the bottom of the generator skegs to allow it to slide out easier when it's time to replace the raw water impeller again.

View attachment 162791
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Very nice! Heck, I'm interested to see what's all happening back there with the generator removed! I'm sure that you're going to swap out that genny exhaust hose when it goes back in. One of the best things that I did a few years ago, was to buy an additional inline muffler from Centek. You can see it in the attached photo. I replaced my (original) exhaust hose a few weeks ago, and re-installed it back in. From in the water behind the boat, you don't hear much more than the splash with the generator running.
 

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scooper321 said:
Has anyone replaced their shore power inlets and switched from the threaded locking ring to a Smart Plug inlet?

A recent insurance survey showed just the very beginnings of some discoloration on one of the boat’s shore power inlets. I’m not fooling around with this and so I'm looking to replace the inlet. Probably both.

The easiest would be to put new Marinco inlets in. Probably stainless. And then new shore power cords for the home dock. That’s about $200 per port. I could save a couple bucks by replacing just the power cord female connectors, I guess. But strange thing - I can’t seem to find the EEL connectors on line anywhere. Does Marinco not sell them to be retrofit? And do I want them or do I want the locking ring? I’ve had both and never really had an issue with the thread on rings.

The big advantage of this solution is it’s fast and cheap. And I don’t need to modify or replace travel cords. Those are in nice shape.

But smart plug looks like a smart idea. It would require not only new inlets on the boat, but 4 new connectors that I would retrofit on my home and travel shore power cord sets. Each side is just under $400. Or I could splurge for new home dock SP cords and spend even more money.doing the inlets and retrofitting all four cords (without replacing) would mean almost a boat buck to do both sides. Not much additional work, either. Retrofitting the cable connectors is pretty easy in the scope of boat projects.

My current inlets are original, so 20 years old. Replacing them with the same should get me 20 more years, right? So do I need to go to Smart Plug, or is it a solution that is overkill? Is there any reason, other than money, NOT to switch to Smart Plug?
Click to expand...
Coop,
You don't want to replace your entire cord or when you travel it will be a headache. I have the smart plugs on my boat side and I never disconnect them. I pull in the cord into my storage locker when I travel and then just pull out the male NEMA 30 amp plug when I get to another marina. The boat side is more secure and if there was ever any arcing it would be on the pedestal and helpfully not in the boat. Let me know if you want pics.
 
TotallyGross said:
Coop,
You don't want to replace your entire cord or when you travel it will be a headache. I have the smart plugs on my boat side and I never disconnect them. I pull in the cord into my storage locker when I travel and then just pull out the male NEMA 30 amp plug when I get to another marina. The boat side is more secure and if there was ever any arcing it would be on the pedestal and helpfully not in the boat. Let me know if you want pics.
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Actually, that's exactly what we do. We have a cord set we let on the dock when we depart and another we keep under the starboard sofa for travel. When we arrive at our destination there is the fun of trying to haul out the cord fro under the sofa and connect it on the dock. But the challenge isn't in connecting it to the boat, it's because 2 50' cords are a lot to handle! LOL I have thought about pulling the cord into the transom locker instead of leaving it on the dock, but it gets wet in there. I don't want salt water splashing all over the dockside connectors while we ride. I have a thing about not mixing water (fresh or salt) and electricity. :)

And yeah, I'd like pics!

@ZZ13 You uinderstand my thought process exactly. I'm not usually one to settle for "good enough" as that's often an excuse for cutting corners. But there is another "good enough" that means it satisfies the requirements of the task at hand. I don't want to over-engineer a solution, if I don't need to.

@Drafter I've been using the EEL's for a while, too. Mostly decent. But you know the little black locking tab that sits between the ears, that you push up on to make sure the ears lock onto the inlet? I have one connector that no matter how much I've jiggled the ears, seated and reseated the connector, that button will not slide up and lock in. So that connector relies on the springs to hold it in place. That's disturbing to me.

I have also heard that connectrs don't fully mate, face to face. There's space between the body of the inlet and the connetor body. Not meeting flush allows some room for movement and thus, poor connectivity. I sell connectors in my day job (not these) so I'm pretty attune to (or anal about?) mating, strain relief, alignment, etc.

Your comment about being able to get parts is one I've considered, too. But I'd have a total of 4 cords in my possession that would be Smart Plug to boat /usual 30A to dock. If I had a problem away from home, I could probably bite the bullet and buy a standard Marinco inlet and a new cord and replace the Smart Plug.

Have you seen replacement EEL connectors though?
 
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