40 sedan bridge forum

Convection = more heat output. You may want to pull the old unit first and check your ventilation options first.
good call - It has vents above from the factory one. I also vented the fridge up and through when I installed the Vitirfrigo Fridge so it would not over heat and/or burn out.
 
good call - It has vents above from the factory one. I also vented the fridge up and through when I installed the Vitirfrigo Fridge so it would not over heat and/or burn out.
I replaced my white plastic vents above the fridge with stainless versions. They're the exact same vent as the horn vent on the bow which I also replaced.
 
The OEM microwave on our 44DB was a combo convection oven. There was a vent fan mounted to push air over it and out a clam-shell vent on the exterior of the boat. I never realized how hot the cavity above the oven got until one day I was on the dock beside that vent and felt the air coming out. Unless I had a vent fan designed to assist with moving the hot air above the oven, no way I would install one the convection ovens. The area above the oven was lined with padded aluminum insulation as well. I never checked the temp of the air coming out, but it was hot.

Just my $0.02...

Bennett
 
Hi, is there any good way to replace 8.0 Westerbeke raw water impeller on 2002 400 DB? TIA
I’ve seen a few posts on this over the years , some say loosen off the mounts and rotate the unit to get access, I suggest search this thread for Westerbeke Impellar
 
I’ve seen a few posts on this over the years , some say loosen off the mounts and rotate the unit to get access, I suggest search this thread for Westerbeke Impellar
I have an 02 diesel westerbeke. Does your impeller face the port side?
I don't have a difficult time getting mine out. I loosen the bolts with a small wrench and then remove them with my fingers. This is never really difficult for me. IS it the cover or the actual impeller that is hard to remove?
 
Mine is overdue. Considering removing the batteries to wedge myself into the space. Would quess pivoting the genny would require removing the exhaust hose, pita.
 
I have an 02 diesel westerbeke. Does your impeller face the port side?
I don't have a difficult time getting mine out. I loosen the bolts with a small wrench and then remove them with my fingers. This is never really difficult for me. IS it the cover or the actual impeller that is hard to remove?
Thanks again, after taking the belt cover off, it was pretty easy. Glad because this one is shot!
 

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Guest cabin A/C. Anyone know the route the air takes from the unit under the master bed to the outlet in the guest cabin. I get nothing , I suspect the PO removed that ducting or impeded it when he put a steel tube in as part of an added crane on the foredeck . I just wanted to check if it’s easy panel removal stuff, I have no real need for a/c much , but I like everything to work if it can.
 
Guest cabin A/C. Anyone know the route the air takes from the unit under the master bed to the outlet in the guest cabin. I get nothing , I suspect the PO removed that ducting or impeded it when he put a steel tube in as part of an added crane on the foredeck . I just wanted to check if it’s easy panel removal stuff, I have no real need for a/c much , but I like everything to work if it can.
Did you look behind the TV in the master stateroom?
I seem to remember it passing through there when I was removing the TV. I finished mine off with thin cedar planks and store towels and some linens in there.
 
So just went down to the boat and flipped the charger switch and looked in the bidge and my trusty old PD2140V was smoking! She was a great unit until today so I am thinking of going with the same unit- Plug and play easy. Might kick it up to the 60AMP from the 40 but heard that the breaker for the converter is not rated for 1000 watts (60 is 1000w 40 is 675w draw), anyone had a issue going to 60 amp charger?
 
Did you look behind the TV in the master stateroom?
I seem to remember it passing through there when I was removing the TV. I finished mine off with thin cedar planks and store towels and some linens in there.
If it was behind the tv it’s not now, no remnant of it. Maybe it’s below the tv box floor. (I’m turning that tv box into a cupboard as per your solution with a flat screen swinging out on the door)
 
I’ve seen a few posts on this over the years , some say loosen off the mounts and rotate the unit to get access, I suggest search this thread for Westerbeke Impellar
I have a 2000 8.x kW Westerbeke. The impeller is on the back side of the generator. I have replaced mine twice.

Both times I::

1. Removed batteries and battery trays.
2. Removed vertical 2x4 wood post supporting the cockpit flooring, (in front of belt cover).
3. Removed black belt cover.
4. Slid myself back in, so that I was looking at belt side of the generator.
5. Removed pump totally from the generator.
6. Replaced impeller, being sure to find any loose bits, and noting rotation direction and putting new impeller back on with fins bending the right way.
7. Reversed steps.

Note that a couple of the bolts are metric... (maybe 13mm if I recall correctly).

I have read about the rotating idea, but not sure how to do that with a 400+ pound unit.

Hope that helps,

Dave
 
I have a 2000 8.x kW Westerbeke. The impeller is on the back side of the generator. I have replaced mine twice.

Both times I::

1. Removed batteries and battery trays.
2. Removed vertical 2x4 wood post supporting the cockpit flooring, (in front of belt cover).
3. Removed black belt cover.
4. Slid myself back in, so that I was looking at belt side of the generator.
5. Removed pump totally from the generator.
6. Replaced impeller, being sure to find any loose bits, and noting rotation direction and putting new impeller back on with fins bending the right way.
7. Reversed steps.

Note that a couple of the bolts are metric... (maybe 13mm if I recall correctly).

I have read about the rotating idea, but not sure how to do that with a 400+ pound unit.

Hope that helps,

Dave
I have the 8BTDA gen too. My raw water pump is on the end of the generator on the port side. I do need to remove the belt guard, but not the batteries or battery trays. Those are much further to port (behind the engine). I am able to reach back there and get the gen impeller out without having to spin the generator. In fact, I can get back there and take the entire water pump off. Ask me how I know! I am also able to come toward myself to be able to get in there and fish impeller fins out of the heat exchanger. And I am not a small lad. Replacing the impeller on the generator is far easier than replacing the impeller on the port side 450 Diamond engine!
 
Looks like my port side transmission went to meet its maker on Saturday. New reman ordered from Hales Marine in Virginia for my 7.4's. Said that it's the port side 80% of the time because of the extra work that it has to do for the counter rotation vs. the other side, and the extra heat eventually does them in. Nobody keeps them laying around in stock with all of the different gear ratios, so one has to be built.
 
I have a 2000 8.x kW Westerbeke. The impeller is on the back side of the generator. I have replaced mine twice.

Both times I::

1. Removed batteries and battery trays.
2. Removed vertical 2x4 wood post supporting the cockpit flooring, (in front of belt cover).
3. Removed black belt cover.
4. Slid myself back in, so that I was looking at belt side of the generator.
5. Removed pump totally from the generator.
6. Replaced impeller, being sure to find any loose bits, and noting rotation direction and putting new impeller back on with fins bending the right way.
7. Reversed steps.

Note that a couple of the bolts are metric... (maybe 13mm if I recall correctly).

I have read about the rotating idea, but not sure how to do that with a 400+ pound unit.

Hope that helps,

Dave
while back there I would do routine maintenance and repack the rudders... since you are there. Cummins here but pulling similar stuff out to change charger so while there!~
 
Looks like my port side transmission went to meet its maker on Saturday. New reman ordered from Hales Marine in Virginia for my 7.4's. Said that it's the port side 80% of the time because of the extra work that it has to do for the counter rotation vs. the other side, and the extra heat eventually does them in. Nobody keeps them laying around in stock with all of the different gear ratios, so one has to be built.
Will you need to take the boat on one engine anywhere, there’s something about jury rigging cooling on the drip less to stop overheating on the shaft not in use
 
Will you need to take the boat on one engine anywhere, there’s something about jury rigging cooling on the drip less to stop overheating on the shaft not in use
I think I could actually leave that engine on and just keep it in neutral at idle to flow water through the dripless if I had to. Everything is neutral at this point, and the shaft spins in forward and reverse as well. My mechanic is 8 or 9 miles away, but he's offered to come over and replace it in my slip with me. I think it's around 109 pounds. Wonder if I need to rig up some sort of sturdy A frame/sawhorse to lower it down into the lazerette with a come a long or chain hoist? Or can you manhandle one in and out? Has anyone done it?
 

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How do you get access to the rudders with the water tank in the way?
Its actually below the tank in a small crawl space. I've done mine once before. For the other side remove the exhaust hose from the Gen (at least on the Onan.)
 

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