40 sedan bridge forum

The factory 2001 port lights are those clip in screens. I never new there was an earlier version with screens bedded in.
I know that they came up with the retrofit. Not sure the year. May just affect the earlier boats. We do the same thing now with house construction. Instead of nailing a screen in as the old days, we just order framed screens as a window would have, and block them in for screened in patios. Makes it loads easier to drop off and have re-screened as they wear out.
 

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I was wondering what the new style screens and gaskets are? I got same boat as you and need new screens and gaskets on both of my heads and the originals are no longer available.
I just pulled the trigger on 2 of the P100-04-RETRO kits. Go 2 Marine has them on sale for $42. I spoke with Bomar. They were not a huge help as far as this S616 portlight was on our boats vs the very similar S718. I think it's the 616 though, and will report back. These kits are $75 each retail direct from Bomar.
 

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Today was screen replacement day on my 98. The factory screens are glued to the gasket. The retrofit kit (P-100-04-RETRO) comes with a screen in a frame and new gasket that it fits into. I've been putting this off for years thinking that I would have to take the whole portlight apart and rebed it. This was a 20 minute job, and 15 of that was being crazy particular about getting every last ounce of old adhesive off. A can of goof off takes the miniscule amount that is there off easily. I should have done this a long time ago.
 

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I am in need of some help as i need to rebuild/repair my pedestal for the bridge seats on my 2001 DB400. it is a Garelick adjustable pedestal. I contacted Garelick and they were no help and could no supply any cut sheets of this pedestal. i was able to purchase the piston which is a 2 month delivery. They just said the screws broke to allow the piston to come out the top.

Does the pedestal need to be removed to rebuild/repair?
Does the seat need to be removed? i assume it does.

Any help or info is appreciated.
 
You'll probably be better off going out and just getting new ones. That's what I did with mine, was a lot less of a problem. I had to drill and tap new holes in the floor mounting piece but the new pedestal bases covered up the old holes.
 
I am in need of some help as i need to rebuild/repair my pedestal for the bridge seats on my 2001 DB400. it is a Garelick adjustable pedestal. I contacted Garelick and they were no help and could no supply any cut sheets of this pedestal. i was able to purchase the piston which is a 2 month delivery. They just said the screws broke to allow the piston to come out the top.

Does the pedestal need to be removed to rebuild/repair?
Does the seat need to be removed? i assume it does.

Any help or info is appreciated.
I’ve disassembled mine to remove the hydraulic RAM. It’s pretty obvious and easy if you want to take a closer look at the pedestal. Six hex head screws at the bottom separate the pedestal from the base. And four Phillips underneath the seat (slide seat forward to access the front two screws) separate the seat from the pedestal.
 
Hi everyone just put in a new garmin reactor 40 with shadow drive-retro. Have to remove hydraulic fluild line from the steering wheel to add the shadow drive the oil is red in color the boat is 2001 how can I change the fluid . Can't get to the steering ram! any ideals to do this job Thanks love this site
 
Hi everyone just put in a new garmin reactor 40 with shadow drive-retro. Have to remove hydraulic fluild line from the steering wheel to add the shadow drive the oil is red in color the boat is 2001 how can I change the fluid . Can't get to the steering ram! any ideals to do this job Thanks love this site
You'll have to access the steering ram to drain / change the fluid.
Sounds like someone put ATF in the system.
If you didn't want to drain the system, you could put the Shadow Drive in line (add a short hose between the ShadowDrive and helm) minimizing leaking of the fluid then using a Seastar fill kit (if that will work with your helm) and cycle the steering left and right purging the air out of the system.
 
Thanks I did put shadow at helm. I was hoping to change out the 22 year old oil we are planning to do the great loop this summer but I cant get back in there to the ram. thanks for the info
 
I know that this has been talked about here and there. Once again, I'm replacing my float switch and pump in my shower sump. I've considered electronic switches which don't appear to be great, air switches which don't like dirty water, mercury, etc. Think I'm going back to the simple heavy duty float switch that is exposed, and easy to clean.
The factory pump was a 2000 GPH. I had small 1000 for a year or so and it was junk. I dropped in a Rule 800 that I could find locally this weekend to get things working. Both should obviously be overkill. Considering going back to a 2000gph while things are clean and apart. Was the large pump really just more about a powerful motor that could digest nasty water easier? Soap scum, hair etc.....My galley sink is already re-routed thru the hull.
 

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I know that this has been talked about here and there. Once again, I'm replacing my float switch and pump in my shower sump. I've considered electronic switches which don't appear to be great, air switches which don't like dirty water, mercury, etc. Think I'm going back to the simple heavy duty float switch that is exposed, and easy to clean.
The factory pump was a 2000 GPH. I had small 1000 for a year or so and it was junk. I dropped in a Rule 800 that I could find locally this weekend to get things working. Both should obviously be overkill. Considering going back to a 2000gph while things are clean and apart. Was the large pump really just more about a powerful motor that could digest nasty water easier? Soap scum, hair etc.....My galley sink is already re-routed thru the hull.
My pump on a 2001 was the 800 when I bought it. I replaced it once with the same. Although the parts manual says a 2000, there isn’t a 2000 in the four 400DBs I work on. But they are all 2001 or 2002.

Are you still dumping your galley sink into the shower sump?
 
My pump on a 2001 was the 800 when I bought it. I replaced it once with the same. Although the parts manual says a 2000, there isn’t a 2000 in the four 400DBs I work on. But they are all 2001 or 2002.

Are you still dumping your galley sink into the shower sump?
Thanks Bill. I'm not sure why it shows a 2000. All of the pumps on the boat were 2000gph's in the parts manual. Maybe that was just to make it easy to not have to stock multiple sizes for that production line. All of the new sump box setups that I've seen use a 750 or 800. I'll just leave what I bought over the weekend. Yes, I did the sink re-route several years ago. One of the best upgrades that I've done. Few things will make you pucker quicker than drilling a large hole into the side of your new boat. I took this pic to text to friends for fun. To answer NJlarry's question, I've heard that you don't really want a check valve in place of a bilge pump. Think it has something to do with that valve holding water in the hose over the winter and the possibility of the hose splitting if that froze. I always dump a gallon of antifreeze into my bilges at winterizing and cycle it through the pump, leaving some in the bilge to mix with whatever small amount of water might make its way in.
 

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I too routed my galley sink overboard like Drafter. I feel it keeps so much growth and nasty stuff out of the shower sump. We cook often and washing dishes and plates made that thing a nasty petri dish.
YES Drafter. The measure twice cut once motto became measure 14 times and cut once. :p
 
Hey Everyone. I notice online (facebook) some one replaced their microwave. I looked at the model and found for a couple more bucks the convection model that is the same size GE MODEL JES1109RRSS. Anyone swapped this out? My black factory sharp lost its LED years ago but I can make it work the 3 times a year I use it, but alas! time for functionality. I HATE cutting anything on a boat, so factory fit is a big plus. Anyone that has swapped, what do you do to secure? sheet metal screw from the bottom and make sure they land clean? Pull the foot screws, build a template and use longer screw from the bottom? Just checking for backup before I engage myself. Any input would be appreciated! Cheers
 
Hey Everyone. I notice online (facebook) some one replaced their microwave. I looked at the model and found for a couple more bucks the convection model that is the same size GE MODEL JES1109RRSS. Anyone swapped this out? My black factory sharp lost its LED years ago but I can make it work the 3 times a year I use it, but alas! time for functionality. I HATE cutting anything on a boat, so factory fit is a big plus. Anyone that has swapped, what do you do to secure? sheet metal screw from the bottom and make sure they land clean? Pull the foot screws, build a template and use longer screw from the bottom? Just checking for backup before I engage myself. Any input would be appreciated! Cheers
Convection = more heat output. You may want to pull the old unit first and check your ventilation options first.
 

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