340 SUNDANCER THREAD

Scott,
thanks a lot. You answered my question. Great information presented on smart craft. I wish I had the capability. I will continue to look for alternatives to smart craft like FloScan.
Richard
Beachparty
 
I have been advised the best option is to connect two Garmin GFS-10 fuel monitors to the Garmin 4210 chartplotter that I have onboard. Does anyone have any knowledge concerning the use of this combination to manage fuel consumption more efficiently? I can get 2 GFS10's for a little over $300 which seems to be cheaper than any other device, especially since I wont have to find space for another display on the dashboard.
Richard
 
Let me know if you get them, and where you can get 2 for around $300.00 total.. that seems pretty cheap.. Also if you are able to connect them yourself.. I also looked at the new Mercmonitor, which now can connect all the engine functions directly to your garmin using the NMEA 2000 .

Here's the pdf about it:
http://www.mercurymarine.com/media/mercury/documents/MercMonitor_sell_sheet.pdf

for twin engines like mine, that means about $900.00 for the system...
 
I ordered two from anchorexpress.com for $149 each plus $9 shipping no tax. I have a garmin 4208. I called Garmin tech support. They were great. They said to go under setup...config...comm...nmea 2000. If GPS17 comms up I don't need anything else. Of course it didn't so I had to order NMEA2000 set up kit for aprox $69 at anchor at the same time no additional shipping costs. As recommended by Garmin I ordered from Garmin a SD chip for updated s/w for the 4208. I don't intend to do it myself but according to the tech manuals I looked at on the Garmin site it seems simple.

I will let you know the results after I get installed.

Richard
 
This is a great thread. Only downside is almost too much and hard to search. Interesting points I've picked up on are the weak horn and the inability to independently switch off the interior lights next to the electrical panel in the cabin (without the TV). Sounds like various owners have had the dealer add a switch for the lights. Anyone do it themselves or know how it was done from the dealer? I'd like to do it but have not yet dug into wiring diagrams, etc. Any experiences here would be appreciated.

As for the horn, mine was weak from day 1 and then stopped working day 2......... I get a faint "clicking" sound out of it. Anyone had the same symptom and/or done a successful swap for something decent? I'm tired of carrying an air horn to be legal and safe.

Any details anyone can share on the horn and lights would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Eric
 
Can someone give me the measurements of the cockpit table? I haven't taken delivery of my 340 yet and don't have access to measure it but want to get started on a custom wood table.
Also, somewhat related, does anyone wish the stock acrylic table was any different size? Longer, wider,etc.?
Thanks.
 
Tony, I might be going to the marina today. If so I will get that info for you. Post some pics of your new toy!!!
 
rhodyboater said:
Can someone give me the measurements of the cockpit table? I haven't taken delivery of my 340 yet and don't have access to measure it but want to get started on a custom wood table.
Also, somewhat related, does anyone wish the stock acrylic table was any different size? Longer, wider,etc.?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

I don't have the exact measurements, as I am not at the boat. It would be different than yours since my boat is an '01 and the boat size changed in 2003. The table is used to span between the two seats and filler cushion sit on top of the table that act as cockpit bed... My boat was a Repo and I did not get the cockpit cushion, so my wife is making replacements... If you intened to use your new table a replacement for your OEM table, you will have make it the same size. If not you can make it any size that would work for you...
 
rhodyboater said:
Can someone give me the measurements of the cockpit table? I haven't taken delivery of my 340 yet and don't have access to measure it but want to get started on a custom wood table.
Also, somewhat related, does anyone wish the stock acrylic table was any different size? Longer, wider,etc.?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

22 1689692 TABLE, T/F CKPT RECT ARW 03 35"X 19" From the Sea Ray parts manual for your boat...

http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/1C1_24_74DEIPR7EIA.pdf
 
Yep' that's what is says in my manual also.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys. I'm looking to have a really nice mahogany table made with an inlay of a brass compass rose. I'll certainly post a pic when I get it done.
 
rhodyboater said:
Thanks guys. I'm looking to have a really nice mahogany table made with an inlay of a brass compass rose. I'll certainly post a pic when I get it done.
Click to expand...

We were going to change the size and shape, but, we traded boats instead. I usually had the table angled about 45 degrees when installed. When installed squarely, some people have to really lean forward to eat while others have the food in their laps. I would consider waiting. We would have made ours closer to square with one side angled off so you could easily walk by without taking the table out. Consider getting started with an over-sized piece. You could begin joining boards and planing them and getting close on the finish, then trim it to the dimensions that you decide you'll want for the long term and then put the edges on and finish it off.

Something to consider is that it is designed to be stored up under the engine hatch, but we never kept ours there.

Something else to consider is making it with hinges to drop a couple of sides when you don't need as much area.
 
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Torque said:
This is a great thread. As for the horn, mine was weak from day 1 and then stopped working day 2......... I get a faint "clicking" sound out of it. Anyone had the same symptom and/or done a successful swap for something decent? I'm tired of carrying an air horn to be legal and safe.

Any details anyone can share on the horn and lights would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks!

Eric
Click to expand...

I think the 2008 340 has a good horn and can be ordered and is plug and play. Look a little deeper into this to confirm what I believe.

There are a couple of ways to solve the light issue. The easiest may be to remove the upper electrical panel. Use caution. I removed mine several times. Set the lower edge on a thick towel and lower the top out toward you. This should protect the surfaces. The blue colored wires (if I remember correctly) that lead up and aft, behind the panel at your right shoulder as you face the electrical panel, supply the power to the two lights in question. I think they are a combined 20A 12V DC lights. You could purchase a SR switch, or any switch to suit you and the job. Install it anywhere in the area that suits you. Just cut into one of the lines (with power off) and run it through the switch. On - completes the circuit. Off - obvious. Will still need main light switch on to operate, which is probably good.

Another solution may be to get different power to the head (bathroom) lighting. This doesn't allow you to turn off the two interior lights, but it does allow you to turn on the head lights (STS) without turning on any other interior lights. Remove the switch panel from the wall in the head. Turn on the "Power Vents" switch on the main DC electrical panel. Use caution of course. Find the hot wire on the back of the vent switch in the head. Turn on the main light switch in the entry way to the cabin. Find the hot wire to the back of the lights switch in the head - disconnect it and secure the end (power off, cut and cap it). Take a lead (another wire) from the hot vent wire to where the hot light wire was. Now, to use the head in the middle of the night, just make sure the main power vent switch is on on the elect panel before going to bed. When you enter the head, the head lights will be powered by the switch without turning on the main cabin light switch.
 
Missed your post yesterday John. Thanks for the info. I may try the '08 horn and see if that works. Wonder if that's an item that's covered under the "Captain's Class" warranty.......... Would be nice to have that covered given it did not work pretty much from the start. Funny how you don't notice the things you don't use much.

As for the wiring, funny you mention the head lighting........ I now remember that was actually the main reason I wanted to separate those 2 lights above the electrical panel so you could not have to power them on to get lights in the head at night...... My work-around was to plug a night-light in to the outlet that's in the medicine cabinet above the sink. If you leave the door open to the cabinet, it's perfect for the head at night but the main downside obviously is that you have to be on shorepower or generator. Now I just need them off so I can try to get my little girls to actually go to sleep on the boat in the back cabin. I'm not ready to power off all the lights downstairs at 7:30pm when they go down and pulling the bulbs each night is a pain.

I think I've got a plan to get those lights switched. My next step is to drop the panel they're in. I see screwcaps there so I'm anticipating I'll find both the hot leads from the panel and the returning switched leads back from the main switch just inside the cabin door. From there I just need to find a suitable mounting spot for the switch and then the hardest part will likely be running down a plate to mount it in so it looks nice/factory. If anyone has any ideas on where to source one of those that would be wonderful. The only single switch panels like that I could find on the boat that I could use when talking to the dealer were black and I need a tan/cream one to match the interior similar to the double panel mounts I have for the main lighting and stereo switches.

Very excited to have this thing done after years of headaches!
 
For the head, I use the little hockey-puck sized LED lights with batteries in them and 3 little LEDs. I just put one in my new Head just because the 4 Halogens are too bright when it's dark out.
 
That's a good call. Dimmers would certainly be nice......... Another project...... ;-)
 
Kiwi Graham said:
Hi, looking for some help here or pointing in the right direction.

I'm looking for line drawings or measurements that would help a trailer maker construct a launching trailer for a 2006 340/375 Sundancer with twin 306 Yanmahs and V drives.

I have searched various threads attempting to find this info and even looked on the Sea Ray web site but have drawn a blank.

Graham
Click to expand...

Check out Metal Craft Trailers in Salt Lake City (801)487-7586. They made a 4 axle trailer for my boat (2000 340DA).
 
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