340 SUNDANCER THREAD

My boots for the forward and aft biminis on the arch come out once a year and thats when it's time to wrap them up and remove for winterization. I stow the arches in the cabin over the winter. The aft camper bimini gets booted whenever I dont want the full aft top up for shade. Most of the time I leave all three bimini's up and connected like in my sig pic.
 
Zorba said:
Nowake,

Take a close look at the photo. The boot will cover the forward Bimini and will stay in place with the existing support. Just unzip, unbutton and roll it up before putting the boot on.
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Just look at that beeeyootiful boat!!! Man that's sharp.

Thanks Zorba that's what I was envisioning too when I posted last. Bimini's I've had on other boats folded back and rested on the frame with gravity keeping them in position, or folded all the way back. So when I told Rob in his earlier question about the boot to pull the pin on the vertical stanchion and fold it back then put on the boot, I didn't think it through and realized the frame would fall forward. That's when I realized that what you're saying must be the way it works. Unsnap, unzip and roll it around the frame, then put on the boot. I've just never seen that before.

Man that's a good looking boat.
 
nowakezone said:
Just look at that beeeyootiful boat!!! Man that's sharp.

Thanks Zorba that's what I was envisioning too when I posted last. Bimini's I've had on other boats folded back and rested on the frame with gravity keeping them in position, or folded all the way back. So when I told Rob in his earlier question about the boot to pull the pin on the vertical stanchion and fold it back then put on the boot, I didn't think it through and realized the frame would fall forward. That's when I realized that what you're saying must be the way it works. Unsnap, unzip and roll it around the frame, then put on the boot. I've just never seen that before.

Man that's a good looking boat.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment. The same to you and I am looking into lite version of you 340 fishing package. I really like what you have done.
 
nowakezone said:
Just look at that beeeyootiful boat!!! Man that's sharp.

Thanks Zorba that's what I was envisioning too when I posted last. Bimini's I've had on other boats folded back and rested on the frame with gravity keeping them in position, or folded all the way back. So when I told Rob in his earlier question about the boot to pull the pin on the vertical stanchion and fold it back then put on the boot, I didn't think it through and realized the frame would fall forward. That's when I realized that what you're saying must be the way it works. Unsnap, unzip and roll it around the frame, then put on the boot. I've just never seen that before.

Man that's a good looking boat.
Click to expand...

I think I will be getting a cockpit cover as rcknecht suggested! As with any boat, I guess it takes a few times taking the canvas off and putting it back on to get the system down. (As pchanson was stating, starting zippers but not completely zipping them until you get them all started.) I will be contacting Great Lakes and getting a quote as several zippers came completely off and several pulled apart behind the zipper and now the zippers are stuck half way down. Thanks for all the responses.
Rob
 
Okay, a question for the technical people in the crowd. As I have been poring over my new toy seeing what all the switches do and ensuring everything works, I have found the stereo is not working. (No power at the head) I then realized there is no power at the switches at the companionway entry for cabin stereo or cockpit stereo. I assume these two switches are fed from the same source. I have the stereo power switch on at the main DC panel. Can anyone tell me how to trouble shoot this? Is the switch at the main panel bad? I assume the switches in the panel are fed from the same source and the rocker immediately above it for cabin lights works fine. Am I missing some breaker or fuse that I should check? (The breaker under the helm looks fine for the power amp) I am no electrician, so any advice on chasing this down would be greatly appreciated. I posted under the electronics thread on here, but didn't get a single response!
Help!
Rob
 
Robf said:
Okay, a question for the technical people in the crowd. As I have been poring over my new toy seeing what all the switches do and ensuring everything works, I have found the stereo is not working. (No power at the head) I then realized there is no power at the switches at the companionway entry for cabin stereo or cockpit stereo. I assume these two switches are fed from the same source. I have the stereo power switch on at the main DC panel. Can anyone tell me how to trouble shoot this? Is the switch at the main panel bad? I assume the switches in the panel are fed from the same source and the rocker immediately above it for cabin lights works fine. Am I missing some breaker or fuse that I should check? (The breaker under the helm looks fine for the power amp) I am no electrician, so any advice on chasing this down would be greatly appreciated. I posted under the electronics thread on here, but didn't get a single response!
Help!
Rob
Click to expand...

Make sure you have touch the two switches in the middle of the panel called main solenoid or something to that effect. They are in the galley panel and in the bilge. Either place will activate them.

Page 16 http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/1C1_23_74DEJAK1735.pdf
 
Rob, look really good on your cockpit dash rocker switches, there should be one switch that controls the stereo power.
 
Paul, what about that accessory rocker switch? What does that control?:huh:
 
Kreole Kid said:
Paul, what about that accessory rocker switch? What does that control?:huh:
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I though of that too. Honestly, I am not completely sure but think it powers the bus bar under the dash. VHF, radar, anything you have hooked in to that. The stereo has its on switch on the panel. If he has lights they may be the ac if he is plugged in. I think it is probably the solenoid switch. That must be activated before the stereo will work. An amp is most likely hooked directly to the battery.
 
Paul, on the back of the radio, there should be a fuse of some sort. CHECK THAT FIRST
 
Kreole Kid said:
Paul, on the back of the radio, there should be a fuse of some sort. CHECK THAT FIRST
Click to expand...

Guys, thanks for all the responses. First, both battery solenoid switches have been activated and all other DC powered accessories from the board seem to work fine. There is a "stereo" rocker switch immediately under the "cabin lights" switch which is also turned on. The lights are powered from the "DC Cabin Lights" switch, not the AC Cabin Lights switch, so it is not from the AC shorepower that I am getting lights.

If I pull the switches at the companionway for stereo cabin and stereo cockpit, shouldn't I get 12 volts of DC behind the switches if there is power to them? As I mentioned, these do not light up when activated, so I was suspect of power not coming to them. If power is not getting to the switches, then there would not be any reason to pull the radio to check the fuse behind it until I was sure there was power getting to the radio.

I have a Clarion radio set up with CD changer under it. I believe it was a custom installation, which could cause more issues since it is not factory.

Rob
 
Check the 60 AMP fuse that is on the fwd bilge bulkhead connectected directly to the battery. My fuse separated causing the amp not to energize. I had bought an new amp and ended up sending it back... My fuse was screwed into a blue line, and when to the amp input in the closet...

Robf said:
Guys, thanks for all the responses. First, both battery solenoid switches have been activated and all other DC powered accessories from the board seem to work fine. There is a "stereo" rocker switch immediately under the "cabin lights" switch which is also turned on. The lights are powered from the "DC Cabin Lights" switch, not the AC Cabin Lights switch, so it is not from the AC shorepower that I am getting lights.

If I pull the switches at the companionway for stereo cabin and stereo cockpit, shouldn't I get 12 volts of DC behind the switches if there is power to them? As I mentioned, these do not light up when activated, so I was suspect of power not coming to them. If power is not getting to the switches, then there would not be any reason to pull the radio to check the fuse behind it until I was sure there was power getting to the radio.

I have a Clarion radio set up with CD changer under it. I believe it was a custom installation, which could cause more issues since it is not factory.

Rob
Click to expand...
 
Zorba - they are automotive "J" hook style wipers. I'll be at Reward tomorrow and measure for you - if someone doesn't answer sooner...21" sticks in my mind though...
 
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