- Oct 3, 2006
- 4,404
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer, Westerbeke MPV generator
- Engines
- twin 5.0's w/BIII drives
*** Serious on-topic reply – the best I personally can offer ***
Capnjohn,
I previously had a 240DA. Although the current model may be tipsier, my 1998 Suncancer was also tipsy. I believe it to be inherent to the size and style of boat.
In the 1998 model the driver’s seat was a small bench. Once I got the boat level I could actually throw the boat off level by sliding my 6’2†240# of human ballast to one side of the seat or the other.
What I found helpful was to trim as high as possible w/out causing cavitations or prop venting then tab light as light as possible. At any given moment, one tab should be fully retracted, meaning you press the down button and hold it until the tab is fully up. Then balance with the other tab as needed.
The above gets your bow out of the water and the stern in the water as far as possible. This widens the water footprint at the stern and improves stability slightly.
I readjusted the tabs often. Each time a crew member relocated their seating location or each time I changed course I would need to readjust. Keep in mind that you will always be going back to only one tab button unless it gets 100% retracted and you need more adjustment. Only then do you touch the controls for the other tab.
In time the process became second nature to me like riding a unicycle.
I offer this, based on your question and my own personal experience in hopes of helping you.
Summary:
- Once you plane, trim the drive as far as possible w/out causing cavitations or prop venting.
- Start with both tabs fully retracted (up) meaning you press the buttons down.
- Make all adjustments with only one tab. At any given moment, one tab stays 100% retracted.
- Re-adjust often.
Hope it helps.
Capnjohn,
I previously had a 240DA. Although the current model may be tipsier, my 1998 Suncancer was also tipsy. I believe it to be inherent to the size and style of boat.
In the 1998 model the driver’s seat was a small bench. Once I got the boat level I could actually throw the boat off level by sliding my 6’2†240# of human ballast to one side of the seat or the other.
What I found helpful was to trim as high as possible w/out causing cavitations or prop venting then tab light as light as possible. At any given moment, one tab should be fully retracted, meaning you press the down button and hold it until the tab is fully up. Then balance with the other tab as needed.
The above gets your bow out of the water and the stern in the water as far as possible. This widens the water footprint at the stern and improves stability slightly.
I readjusted the tabs often. Each time a crew member relocated their seating location or each time I changed course I would need to readjust. Keep in mind that you will always be going back to only one tab button unless it gets 100% retracted and you need more adjustment. Only then do you touch the controls for the other tab.
In time the process became second nature to me like riding a unicycle.
I offer this, based on your question and my own personal experience in hopes of helping you.
Summary:
- Once you plane, trim the drive as far as possible w/out causing cavitations or prop venting.
- Start with both tabs fully retracted (up) meaning you press the buttons down.
- Make all adjustments with only one tab. At any given moment, one tab stays 100% retracted.
- Re-adjust often.
Hope it helps.