220 DA thread

let me know if it's not the right info. you have a Gen II. I dont know if they changed the trim unit.
 
well the pictures in the information you sent me looks identical to mine and the wire colors they talk about for diagnosing are the same color as the ones going to the hydraulic pump I am pretty sure. Looks like that is everything I need to know what wires to check and whatnot. I did not know there was another fuse down there at the pump.. i only saw the 20 amp inline fuse.. didn't know anything about a 110amp fuse so that will probably be the next thing i check. Thanks for everything rock.
 
ok well got home from work and went to testing and looking. I have 12v at the solenoid and to make a long story short there is not a trim limit switch or a trim sender switch mounted on my outdrive. I saw the placed for them but they are not there. the single plug with 2 wires for the limit switch are hanging there beside the hydraulic pump but are not hooked up to anything. will this cause the trim/tilt to be inoperative? thanks, Kenny
 
the trim limit switch is what it was. I bypassed it since it isnt there by completing the circuit as if it were there and wasn't limited out and the trim came up and down!! it will go down easy but sometimes it doesnt want to go up, i think it might be because the battery in my boat is not fully charged and it takes more to pull the outdrive up than let it down? it just clicks sometimes when I push it the trim switch up. so.. new trim limit switch, trim sender switch for other side, and battery all on the list for parts needed!!
 
Ok, well here it goes. tonight I tried to turn over the engine.. (note the boat had been sitting for 8 years or so) I changed the oil and the old oil actually looked really good but I just wanted to be on the safe side. Tried to start it and it was reallllly slow to crank. Like 1/4 turn then stop.. I figured it might be battery so I hooked jumper cables up.. no difference. So i thought maybe it was hydrolocked. Pulled all 8 spark plugs and it did actually spin but very slow. Much slower than it should for sure. Next thought maybe the power steering or water pump or alternator were really locked up or something so pulled both accesory belts off.. no difference and all of those pullies spun freely individually. I looked around on the internet and thought maybe it was the starter messed up (bushings binding or bad brush contacts) pulled the starter, took it apart, everything looked great. So, now to summarize I have full 12v with plenty of amperage, starter is fine, but still doesnt turn the engine over near as fast as it should, especially since the spark plugs and accesory belts are off.. any advice you all can give me would be greatly appreciated. At this point I am guessing somewhere around the neighborhood of main bearings or piston to cylinder problems. I just don't understand how it can be somewhat seized up but not totally. If I had to guess, with all the plugs out and all that it is probably spinning 60 rpms maybe.. something is puting resistance on the engine.. PLEASE HELP!!!!!
 
Did you have the battery tested? It may have 12 volts but after 8 years probably no cranking amps.
 
the battery we have been using is out of my buddys boat, it is fully charged.. just to go over the top we hooked jumper cables up to my running z71 truck and tried to crank it over (plugs still out and all that) and it made no difference then, so yes the battery is fully charged. That engine should be spinning free and fast as all get out. I am stumped.
 
How did the oil look when you changed it? Did you think about running an oil analysis to see what the bearing wear may be? It could be a spun bearing.
 
The oil actually looked nice and clean but it may have just been changed by the previous owner but never ran after the oil change. When the engine is turning over and i turn the key off the engine stops pretty sudden. almost sounds like it stops too fast
 
well i was messing around with the boat this afternoon, i put a socket and ratchet on the crank pulley bolt to see if the engine felt tighter than it should and it actually felt fine. I hit the starter a few more times and listened and the starter is a lot louder than it should be. Before I thought it was the engine making the whining sound but it is the starter. pulled it off, gonna get a new one and hopefully we will make some progress.
 
Hi All I'm looking for ideas on how to mount downriggers. I have a pair of manual downriggers that work well for the very few times I get to use them. I'd like to do a bolt through with the 3"X6" mounting plate. The plate fits well near the back of the boat but I don't think I can reach up to get nuts on the bolts. Any suggestions? Pics would be worth a thousands words...
I have the shop to fab any kind of plate needed. Just not sure how best to do this.
 
I think I can get to the back corners on my 220. I will find out tonight or tomorrow as I have to run a new transducer. What downriggers do you have?
 
I have a pair of Riviera Model 500. Small, light and easy to use... on the way down.
I was looking at the 8" round access hatches. Just hate to cut or drill anything that's not needed.
 
Where do you plan to attach them. Right at the base of the window or on the back corner of the transom? If close to the window can you pull the speaker and gain acces to the top of the gunwale. The back transom corners can be accesed from the engine room if you have someone that can fit.
 
I need to put the top up and pretend I'm fishing to pick the best location. I would like to be able to fish with the top up for rain conditions. It might be a hassle moving a rod around the top support poles while a salmon is tugging on it but I'm up for the challenge.
Never thought about the speaker removal, thanks for that idea. They may just go right behind the glass for that reason.
 
Hi all, I had been looking at 270 DA's the last couple weeks. The other day I found this awesome little 220da. Never even considered one. As my 240 OV is bigger. ( so I thought). I actually started reading this thread and I fell in love with the idea of having a pocket cruiser rather then a bigger one. Alas yesterday the boat was gone..... Now I am really wanting to find another 220DA. Anyone know of a nice one out there for sale? I really prefer the 5.7. Haha or even isola's diesel/B3. Thanks all
 
well.. I fixed another thing on my boat today.
first of all let me tell you i got the boat running.
then I noticed water pooring into the bilge from somewhere in the engine, only when it was running. I put my hand under the power steering cooler and felt all the water and figured that was the problem. went to take it off, it looked fine.. went to put it back on and knocked a freeze plug that was just chilling out on top of the engine mount into the bilge.. ok, well there is the culprit. haha
jacked engine up this afternoon, pulled engine mount, replaced freeze plug, put engine mount back on and power steering cooler and walah.. fixed. I am happy now
onto the next issue.. steering locked up, and one trim tab stuck.
 
Hi all,
New to this forum. Currantly on my 3 Sea Ray, a 1989 220 DA. Have had this on about a month. Do most of my boating on Lake Pleasant outside Phoenis Arizona. The boat doesn't have shore power and I am going to add. Seems like a fairly simple addition. I bought a 30 amp cable and inlet. Still need the distribution panel, wireing and outlets. Thinking of a 3 gang panel with a breaker for the cabin outlets, one for the engine room and saving on incase I put in a refridgeraton. Anyone have any other sugestions?
 
Welcome to CSR and the world of the fantastic 220 :smt038

I wonder if you might be better off going with an inverter/charger. I have shore power, but added a Xantrex inverter and I love having 120v while away from the dock. I think the wiring might be easier than what you want to do. Just a thought. Here is a link to one of their units:
http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/257/p/1/pt/8/product.asp

This is what I'm using, without the charger: http://www.buy.com/prod/xantrex-xm1...r/q/listingid/63567194/loc/111/208409488.html
 
Last edited:
Danny Troy said:
Welcome to CSR and the world of the fantastic 220 :smt038

I wonder if you might be better off going with an inverter/charger. I have shore power, but added a Xantrex inverter and I love having 120v while away from the dock. I think the wiring might be easier than what you want to do. Just a thought. Here is a link to one of their units:
http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/257/p/1/pt/8/product.asp

This is what I'm using, without the charger: http://www.buy.com/prod/xantrex-xm1...r/q/listingid/63567194/loc/111/208409488.html
Click to expand...

I do have a small 400w inverter I use now and it works great for the small things, fan and cel charger. I want to be abel to used the buile in battery charger and a swamp cooler when I and at the slip which I need to use shore power for this. Also I am thinking of converting the ice box to a 120v fridge by gutting a small fridge and installing the parts in the present icebox. Looks fairly simple to do.
 
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