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This may be too simplistic an answer but I had a similar issue several years ago and it was suggested to me to follow the sequence in the manual to reset the system to the factory default settings. I imagine your manual will have the key sequence for your system to reset the factory default...

I was able to find the information I needed and wanted to post it here for any others who might be looking for it. The measurement is 2 5/8 inches. Also, I incorrectly asked for 'length' in the original post and meant to say 'diameter'.

Good Day All, I have a 1999 310 with 5.7 Mercs and 1 1/2 inch prop shafts. I'm looking to find out the length of my stern tubes but have not had much luck. I can't get to the boat right now to look so I was wondering if anyone knows that information off the top of their heads or documented...

The most likely culprit is the duckbill value. It is usually a DIY job as long as you have proper access.

Good Day All, Hope everyone is having a much better day than I am. I won't bore you with the stupidity of the details that got me into this situation but I find myself needing a Control Valve for my Velvet Drive 5000V transmission, model 20-02-003. I've began the search online but...

When installing the dripless seal while the propeller shaft is disconnected, it is common for the the installer to slide two seals on the shaft (Tides Marine calls it a 'lip seal' but not sure about other manufacturers). The first seal is of course used in the internals of the shaft seal...

From the pictures it appears to be the older Tides Marine Strong Seal which has been replaced by the Sure Seal model. I can't tell from the pictures if there is a spare seal or not but it would be located about 3-4 inches up the propeller shaft and will have a plastic ring cover protecting it...

The real issue I'm having is that when I'm underway it pegs to 16 volts. I'm confident that it is the gauge because I tested the output from the alternator, which was fine, and also switched the gauges between the port and starboard engines. The same gauge pegged to 16 volts on the other...

Good Day All, While my engines are off, the needle on one of my voltmeters is not resting on its pin but rather pointing right at the number 10 on the gauge face. Does anyone have a trick to reset the needle or should I just get a new gauge? I've already looked at the back of the gauge and...

I think the guide book that mechanics use for time estimates gives a 5-6 hour estimate per engine. It took me much longer than that when I did it but I really think a seasoned mechanic could certainly do one engine within 4-5 hours. If you consider yourself fairly handy it really is not a...

Have you checked the oil for quantity and quality? Quality meaning that there is no sign of water or antifreeze. If the oil is discolored, the 'domp' noise you describe may be a hydrolock in one of the pistons but hopefully that is not the case. If the oil is discolored I wouldn't try turning...

Mr Clean's Magic Eraser gets a lot of stains out. Haven't tried for mold but worth a shot.

Most likely the breaker but if that is not the case, look in the anchor locker and check the electrical connections to the motor itself. I had one of the terminals break off a couple years ago due to corrosion. Finally, check the Imtra control box also located in the anchor locker. It is...

A little late to this party but I have installed the SeaDek on my 310DA this season and so far I'm a fan. It is important to clean the surface thoroughly in order for the adhesive to bond to the surface and it is also important to make sure the edges of each piece is securely attached or you...

I have a Delta Fast-Set for my 310DA that works very well in the soft muddy bottom of the Chesapeake Bay. It holds very well and comes up easily too. The type of bottom you'll be setting in does play a part in your anchor selection.

Mystery leaks are the worst. The spot where water settles is a lot of times not in close proximity to the source of entry. Water simply finds the first level spot. The good news is there is typically a finite number of places water might enter. Get on the bow and give the area a thorough...

¡Hecho! Fini! Klar!

Sorry we couldn't offer any advice but thanks for the follow-up so now others will now know how to remove the cushion.

Here are some pictures of the two exhaust designs -- Old -- http://www.gsbps.org/images/310%20engines-old.jpg New -- http://www.gsbps.org/images/310%20engines.jpg The biggest difference visually is the new 'muffler' that is circled in red on the new exhaust.

I don't have a specific answer to your question but I would assume that no matter where you boat, if the exhaust design is flawed then you would get water intrusion whether it be fresh or salt water. The salt water would have a much more corrosive effect on the internal parts but fresh water...