The official pre-clinton era sr sport cruiser thread

Tail
Not sure a vent line shut off is a good idea. The fuel in your tank needs to expand and contract with temperature changes. Every boat in existence has a vent line and I have never heard of a shut-off. I don't think making such a modification would be advisable.
 
wileecoyote said:
I don't think restriping is in the cards for this year, yet. The deck stripe may need to come off, as it drives me crazy that the edges are rolling up. Right now I'm planning on getting the bottom paint and the hull below the bow stanchions done before spring so I can at least get the boat in the water, then work on stuff. Oh fresh water kit, zincs, bonding wire checks, and assorted problems.
Click to expand...

Re-striping is only about 130 bucks. I can get you the tape and tell you how to do it. If you want the cleaner look, look below. That is our boat with no upper stripes. The Mauve stripe at the water line looked like crap so I had it removed and just went with the single 2" burgandy for the boot stripe.
 
MarkD said:
Eric
No too complicated really, its more about redundancy. The way my boat (and probably Ron's) is set up consists of separate 125 gallon tanks. Each tank has separate fill/vent lines coming into it. Each tank also had separate outlet lines which first run to a shutoff valve, then fuel filter (the Fram bulkhead type), then to the fuel pump and then to a fuel/water seperator (I have racor 10 microns) and then to the carb inlet.

I have to recheck that order of components, but that is about right from what I recall. Unless I am having a senior moment. LOL.

You are right about maintenance though... the bigger the boat the bigger the bills relating to maintenance! i am still amazed how much more it costs to operate this boat vs my old 27' SR. i think the costs are 3x not 2. OUCH!!!!
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I wish I had 2, 125 gallon tanks. The da's in '89 had 1 tank of 90 gallons and 1 of 82. Doesn't give me much range. I have the same valve and filter setup as you and Ron and I have 20 year old hoses as well. They look great but I'm sure now that this discussion is raging I won't be able to get a good night's sleep until I change them. I have fitting wrenches and I was planning to just use barbed fittings and clamps. :huh:
 
Shawn:
Barbs and proper hose is what SR used on the smaller boats, and maybe do still to this day (Mark, do you recall what you have on your '08 185?).
 
Sorry Ron...I am having a senior moment. I am not sure what i have and that puppy is buttoned up tighter than a drum until spring. if you want, we can ask Wesley or someone over in sport boat threads that actually have their boats in the water!!

then again, I think I just depressed myself thinking about others with boats in the water!!! Ugh!!
 
Our marina went to 10% ethanal gas in Nov. They were sure to warn older boat owners of coming problems. I installed new 10 micron fuel filter/water separator and new fuel line (barb & clamp) from tank to existing fuel filter which has metal tube from it to fuel pump. I also installed a fuel flow meter at this time (remember gas just hit over $4/gal?). They also recommend a gas additive with each fill-up to neutralize some of the effects of ethanal fuel including a short shelf life. I currently have 1/4 tank on board (first time use of the new fuel) and have not run the boat since the week before Christmas. I plan to have the boat back running and in the water later this month. Any problem with refreshing the existing gas with a fill up and additive they recommend?
 
Cap'n H
No problem refreshing the "old" gas if you put the stabilizer/additive in before the layup? That's the time to do it as opposed to later on, when,perhaps the gas has already degraded. I think even with e-10 you have about a 3 month shelf life if un-stabilized. So you could still dump the stuff in I guess (if you hadn't already).

Startron is a wonderful product - I have been using it religiously since 2006. There's an initial "loading dose" and then the follow up doses (with each fill up) are 1/2 the loading dose. Has kept my gas stable for the winter of '06-'07, '07-'08 and hopefully the winter of '08-'09.
 
You're welcome Cap'n H.
Larry, I have been putting Startron in at each fill since 2006. I suppose that if you're certain you'll use up 250 gallons in a month or two, than maybe you can skip the maintainence doses. I checked their website for a printout of the instructions on the bottle but couldnt find it. I believe the initial dose is 1 ounce per 8 gallons, then the maintainance dose is 1 ounce per 16 gallons. Lets say in June I need some gas and I put, say, 50 gallon in each tank. I'll immediately dump 3oz of Startron in each tank. Too muhc can't hurt. Check here for FAQs and to look over the website...

http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/category/3/7/25/lang,en/

Unfortunately, as the product got more popular the price has gone up quite a bit. West marine is the worst place to buy it, but not by much. The cheapest place seems to be Boater's World. I had ordered a whole bunch from Jamestown Distributors and saved a bundle, but their prices have come in line with the retail marine outfits.

I don't know if it does all they claim, but I have had not a single E-10 related problem and I have been very faithful in using the stuff as prescribed. If you go to your dentist like clockwork every six months and never have any dental problems, is it because you keep up with your visits? OR would you not have had any problems anyway??? I don't know for sure but I don't want to find out the hard way! :grin:
 
thanks Ron. yeah I used it when I first got the boat as I wasn't sure really how long the fuel had been in it or the type. I think you're estimates of dosage is correct. We seem to not have the E10 issue (yet) but was also concerned about how long the fuel had been in storage at our marina.

Any worth to regular use if ethanol is not an issue?
 
You never heard diddly about Startron until corn-gas started becoming mainstream. When they used to use MTBE as an additive, gasoline was much more stable for longer periods of time. MTBE was banned since it's a proven carcinogen and was found in ground water. Now E-10 is here to stay, even though it's not the panacea the tree huggers made it out to be. But I digress!

Point is, if you don't have ethanol in your gasoline (by law it should say on the pump something like "THIS GAS CONTAINS ETHANOL 10%") then you don't need stabilizers other than maybe for winter lay-up (although I never added anything to any boat I had for winter layup and never had a problem).
 
Ron....that's two post in one afternoon with 'Diddly' in them....we need to get you a thesaurus!!!
 
rondds said:
http://mystarbrite.com/startron//content/category/3/7/25/lang,en/

Unfortunately, as the product got more popular the price has gone up quite a bit. West marine is the worst place to buy it, but not by much. The cheapest place seems to be Boater's World.
Click to expand...

I heard Boaters World has declared bankruptcy. If your local store hasn't closed yet, you may be able to get it for a "going out of business sale" price. I bought my fuel stabilizer (Stabil) at Tractor Supply at the same time I bought my pink antifreeze last fall.
 
Can't slip ANYTHING past you Nunz! :grin:

Make that THREE posts in one day...

diddly-thumb-550x672.jpg
 
OK...moving right along.

While I was in my bilge today I noticed a drip every 2~3 seconds out of my port side stuffing box. Just to be sure, review me on this.

Pull the cotter key, use a BIG wrench ( I'm a Fire Sprinkler guy, I carry a 24" & a 18" pipe wrench in my truck) on the packing nut ...turn gradually until drip stops...rotate shaft by hand to insure there is no binding. Re-insert cotter key.

If this doesn't work then I'm into re-pack.

Sounds right?:huh:
 
sprink56 said:
OK...moving right along.

While I was in my bilge today I noticed a drip every 2~3 seconds out of my port side stuffing box. Just to be sure, review me on this.

Pull the cotter key, use a BIG wrench ( I'm a Fire Sprinkler guy, I carry a 24" & a 18" pipe wrench in my truck) on the packing nut ...turn gradually until drip stops...rotate shaft by hand to insure there is no binding. Re-insert cotter key.

If this doesn't work then I'm into re-pack.

Sounds right?:huh:
Click to expand...
The others can chime in, but I believe it's not supposed to drip sitting still, and I know when I tightened mine before it was yanked, no wrench was needed. I just pulled the pin and tightened by hand. And remember, Not too tight!
 
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