The official pre-clinton era sr sport cruiser thread

Sprink
Depends upon how crudded up your big nut is. If it's not too crudded, you can turn it by hand. If it's cruddy you may need that wrench. If the nut is bottomed out (no more thread to make it any tighter) you will need to repack. As a temporary measure, you can take the nut out and stuff another ring of packing in (while in the water) but next time your high and dry, pull all the old stuff out and repack. If you do pull the nut off, put some Never-seeze on the threads before putting it back.

Check again after your next run. May need a bit more tweeking. I dont think you need to rotate to check for binding. You do want a little dripping - I think it's like a drip per 30 seconds or something. That's if you are using the wax rope stuff.
 
rondds said:
Sprink
Depends upon how crudded up your big nut is. If it's not too crudded, you can turn it by hand. If it's cruddy you may need that wrench. If the nut is bottomed out (no more thread to make it any tighter) you will need to repack. As a temporary measure, you can take the nut out and stuff another ring of packing in (while in the water) but next time your high and dry, pull all the old stuff out and repack. If you do pull the nut off, put some Never-seeze on the threads before putting it back.

Check again after your next run. May need a bit more tweeking. I dont think you need to rotate to check for binding. You do want a little dripping - I think it's like a drip per 30 seconds or something. That's if you are using the wax rope stuff.
Click to expand...

Good Stuff....I love this forum,:thumbsup:
 
Ron,
You have a diagram of that settup. This is nothing like I have but would still like to know about it none the less.
Steve
 
sprink56 said:
Good Stuff....I love this forum,:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

OK...got a big rag and grabbed the big nut. Turned clockwise 1: index hole..still drip every 5 seconds....turned one more index hole...drip every 30~45 seconds :thumbsup:

Wonderfulmundo!!
 
You have a diagram of that settup
Click to expand...

Check this out...
http://www.stuffingboxpacking.com/page/1124315

This pic shows the big nut backed completely out (you can see the threads) and you can see into the area where the packing is. The shaft moving away from you is headed through the hull and out to the prop.

BTW sprink, If you do decide to re-stuff, don't waste you time with the wax rope crap. This GFO is THE bomb. You pack and never worry about it again. Explore the website link and read about it.
 
rondds said:
Check this out...
http://www.stuffingboxpacking.com/page/1124315

This pic shows the big nut backed completely out (you can see the threads) and you can see into the area where the packing is. The shaft moving away from you is headed through the hull and out to the prop.

BTW sprink, If you do decide to re-stuff, don't waste you time with the wax rope crap. This GFO is THE bomb. You pack and never worry about it again. Explore the website link and read about it.
Click to expand...
Ron, Did you switch over to the GFO? How much did you pay for enough to do both and was it a pain to do? I may add that to next years list, as long as it isn't as crazy wicked expensive as the dripless ones!
 
Mark
Two packages of this stuff (enough to do two shafts) was about $50. Hardest part is getting the old crap out.
 
Ok boys. Here's my tutorial on rudder stuffing boxes. This is my port rudder. It took all sorts of might and as large a pipe wrench as I cold swing to loosen this baby up. To be honest, if I wasn't contorted like a yogi guru in a clear plastic box, it would have been easy. You do NOT touch the lower nut. Just the top one. Please excuse the embarrassing 20 year old bilge...

100_1193.jpg


The rudder post was pretty crudded up so I used copious WD-40 to allow for sliding the nut high up on the post for access.

100_1194.jpg


This pic shows what's stuck up inside the cylindrical part of the nut. That's where your packing goes. You can sort of see the old stuff up in there.

100_1195.jpg


To be completely honest, I didn't even try to get the old wax rope packing out. You'd need a tool with a 150 degree bend to reach up in there and pluck out all the old crap. So I elected to place one appropriately sized ring of Gore 1/4" packing in place. I don't recommend this for packing a drive shaft b/c that generates an awful lot of heat and friction as it spins. This thing makes no heat. I really just wanted to make a better gasket in order to stop the constant leakage. When the ends of the piece of packing were drawn together they meet perfectly at the ends. I used the top of the rudder post as a diameter guide to cut. It just wouldn't stay butt-jointed long enough for me to snap the pic.

100_1197.jpg


The ring you saw in the picture above is jammed up into the nut - it was the only ring I placed. A light coat of Never Seeze is placed on the male threads and the nut is lowered back down for tightening. You may need to put a fair amount of downward pressure as you start tightening to compress the new packing and get the threads to catch. I then snugged it up with a smaller pipe wrench. Here it is completed.

100_1198.jpg


I did do the starboard one as well. That was even worse b/c of the position of the generator muffler and the holding tank. The hardest part is loosening the nut. After that the rest is cake. Have fun. I have to run and take 600mg of Ibuprofen now. :smt009
 
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Give a guy a drill and a mirror and he can fill anything.....:grin:
 
osd9 said:
Give a guy a drill and a mirror and he can fill anything.....:grin:
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing. Do ya think he prescribes drugs to himself? :smt038

Ron, You must have one of those little diabolical things you guys jam into my teeth that would have taken that old packing out. Right?
 
I actually got the idea of keeping a mirror on the boat from a patient who used to be an Air Force mechanic. I can't tell you how many times I've dug that thing out to see stuff around the engine room, esp the way things are CRAMMED inside this boat.
 
OK, got the sides below the rubrail done(the easy part) I wetsanded then buffed with 3M polishing glaze and went over it with meguiars 66 quick detailer cleaner wax. I have flagship I was planning on putting on, I'll wait until just before it goes in. You can see what it looked like, the top still looks that way:smt089
photostream

3338359647_db817d05fb.jpg

The clean sides
photostream
3339190846_9440dbb8ab.jpg


The very dirty top sides:smt089

Now the stripes look even worse!:smt021
 
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Lookin' Good!!!!:thumbsup:
 
As you can tell I had my camera toady so I'm full of pics. Just for you Ron I took this pic of how my fuel selector/hoses look. The hoses themselves are soft feeling rubberish material and are clear/tan colored. They also have fittings on the end.
3339191736_b2bfb4b771.jpg
 
wileecoyote said:
OK, got the sides below the rubrail done(the easy part) I wetsanded then buffed with 3M polishing glaze and went over it with meguiars 66 quick detailer cleaner wax. I have flagship I was planning on putting on, I'll wait until just before it goes in. You can see what it looked like, the top still looks that way:smt089
photostream

3338359647_db817d05fb.jpg

The clean sides
photostream
3339190846_9440dbb8ab.jpg


The very dirty top sides:smt089

Now the stripes look even worse!:smt021
Click to expand...

Lots of work but worth it:thumbsup: Looks good...imagine doing it in the water:wow:
 
rondds said:
I felt it was time for us owners of old-ass SRs to have our own offical thread. The 370, 320 & 260 guys did it but they're too new for our club. And in honor of the re-treaded Clinton regime that will be taking over the White House in January, I thought it'd be proper use a Presidential tag to denote cut-off year for this thread.

So if you have a 1992 or older SR, come on in and tell us what ya got. Hell, we all have pretty much the same engines, solid bottoms, the same horrible interior decor and colors (with some modifications), the same stupid plastic drawer pulls, the same cruddy-looking bilges and probably a lot of the same problems. More importantly, we have a bunch of very knowledgable and resourceful people who can share an awful lot of information that could be helpful to the rest of us "old ass SR owners!" :thumbsup::smt038
Click to expand...


LOL, don't get me started on stupid plastic drawer that won't open without smashing your elbow on wall!! My boat color is brown, (canvas, interior, console, and brown panels) so I love it! 80's style, baby!! LOL
 
Hello all, I just picked up nice 345 and have been reading this post for a few weeks. Very clean boat there Ron can you tell me how she handles in rough weather, my sea trial was only on about 1' chop. I will be posting more as I get our new pride Sea-Dal ready for the summer.
Calm seas and fair winds to all Jimmy and Joan
Deltaville Va
 
Sea-Dal said:
Hello all, I just picked up nice 345 and have been reading this post for a few weeks. Very clean boat there Ron can you tell me how she handles in rough weather, my sea trial was only on about 1' chop. I will be posting more as I get our new pride Sea-Dal ready for the summer.
Calm seas and fair winds to all Jimmy and Joan
Deltaville Va
Click to expand...

Jimmy, put all your info in your signature. That way everyone knows with a quick look, what you have. If I ever get mine in the water, I may cruise down your way. Anything down there neat to see?
 
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