The official pre-clinton era sr sport cruiser thread

[rondds]

Hey Dan:
Welcome to the old-ass boat thread! Haven't heard much from you lately. Why R U shrinkwrapped if you're heated and inside?

Nice changes on the boat. Re-doing the sole will really change the look.

I've heard the same about the digital box and flying saucer. It seems that there are mixed results, depending upon locale. Cheap enough to give it a try. I don't even think my glomex is connected anymore and I really don't feel like fishing wire from the arch on down.

 

[Daniel P Thomas]

Ron
Last two winters were inside heated.
This season with the economy, I saw the writing on the wall and decided to go the least expensive route.
The way the construction industry is here in the Chicago area, it was a good decision.

Re: Antennas, a few guys at the marina have been using a Philips Digital one from Target. About $30.00. They have even just left them up in the v-berth and gotten good reception.

Yeah I am really looking forward to removing the carpet on the floor. Probably will replace the carpet on the vertical serfaces with a light berber or similar, and replace the stairs with teak ones to match flooring.

 

[rondds]

Dan
Have you done marine re-carpeting before? I understand it's a bitch to get the old out. Also how do you replace it? I know it's some sort of adhesive. Also, will any readily available carpet do? The PO of my boat replaced the origina teal stuff and the grey that's there now looks like something out of a book in home depot and is in good shape, but I've often wondered what type of job this is.

 

[tmikesh81]

i love my old sea ray wouldn't trade for a new one!!!! especially when its rough out!! wish i had diesels though

 

[Carver370]

Did you use this bracket on your boat? I am having a hard time visulizing that bracket remaining stationary in a "dynamic" enviroment such as we encounter in a boat underway. I need to see some set screw arrangement with "teeth" that will totaly lock down...otherwise I envision the monitor swinging all over the place.:huh:

Sorry I just got to your question, I put the bracket all the way pushed back and fashioned a strap that holds the tv from the back to the wall. Keeps it from swinging and moving in any direction. Some of these mounts have a way to tighten the arms enough to where they are completely stationary all the time and once they are set they do not move until you loosen them.

Another plus is they are really well made and much cheaper than what you would find at your local electronics store!

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

Cool thread here.
You guys have some really clean boats.
My focus has been on fishing and rod storage. 15 rod holders, Storage for a boat hook and a gaff, a 23 gal bait tank, 600W fish finder and two halogen flood lights facing the stern.


Future upgrades will be..
Repower with a bigblock and bravo 3.
New gauges and wood dash.
Hey!.... Someone forgot to put my arch on backwards. :smt038
I'm 6' 6" tall. I stand under the stainless bimini and arch.
I didnt want a 4k radar zaping me in the back of the head while under way.:wow:

 

[wileecoyote]

Cool thread here.
You guys have some really clean boats.
My focus has been on fishing and rod storage. 15 rod holders, Storage for a boat hook and a gaff, a 23 gal bait tank, 600W fish finder and two halogen flood lights facing the stern.


Future upgrades will be..
Repower with a bigblock and bravo 3.
New gauges and wood dash.
Hey!.... Someone forgot to put my arch on backwards. :smt038
I'm 6' 6" tall. I stand under the stainless bimini and arch.
I didnt want a 4k radar zaping me in the back of the head while under way.:wow:

Looks very nice with the rearward facing arch, that boy is up there! Looks like you would have no problem bumping your head if you were normal height. I like the look without all the striping. The white side don't set it in a "fashion era" like the 80's boats. I would like to get rid of my red stipes along the deck, but not sure how it will look. Those flipper look longer than the bed, guess when your 6'6" you got big kickers to cover!

 

[wileecoyote]

Dan
Have you done marine re-carpeting before? I understand it's a bitch to get the old out. Also how do you replace it? I know it's some sort of adhesive. Also, will any readily available carpet do? The PO of my boat replaced the origina teal stuff and the grey that's there now looks like something out of a book in home depot and is in good shape, but I've often wondered what type of job this is.

Sure would be a good project to document with pics. I have the original mauve, or fushia, (not sure which color would be correct) which is now more of a pinkish hue. I may just clean it up and wait for the 80's stlye to come back around. HEY! It could happen! I never thought bellbottoms would come back, but they did somewhat.:lol:

 

[Daniel P Thomas]

Ron
On my last boat '89 340 I removed the carpeting.
It was a bitch.
The adhesive Sea Ray uses is very similar to the adhesive you use to glue down indoor/outdoor carpet.
Usually the backing will come off with the carpet because the glue has become pretty brittle.
Hardest part is sanding the old adhesive down to get the subfloor somewhat smooth.
I tried to use an adhesive softener, but that was even messier.

Probably will carpet the side walls and the short step by salon table.

The PO of my 350 EB had re carpeted so I am pretty sure that this will be a relatively easy job of removal.
Being in the construction trades I do have access to a couple of guys willing to give me a hand.

I will take pictures of the whole process.
Needless to say, the GF is not looking forward to the mess while the boat is in the water, but with outdoor storage this year it won't happen until then.

Just need to decide which product to use.
Leaning towards Alure, Amtico or a Click's Product, similar to Pergo.
Really want a more real teak/hardwood look.

Would like to do complete stairs in teak or similar.

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

Looks very nice with the rearward facing arch, that boy is up there! Looks like you would have no problem bumping your head if you were normal height. I like the look without all the striping. The white side don't set it in a "fashion era" like the 80's boats. I would like to get rid of my red stipes along the deck, but not sure how it will look. Those flipper look longer than the bed, guess when your 6'6" you got big kickers to cover!

Thanks wileecoyote,

Sitting on the trl. From the ground up. She is 13'6" to the top of the radar dome.
Its nice being able to stand under the bimini.
Having the radar dome completely overhead may not be that important.
When you can not even see your bow at night, or in the fog.
Im usually sitting and watching the radar screen closely.
That Furuno unit actually picks up birds :grin:

Them fins are a size 12 freedive fins. long and fast. One never knows when he may need to out run a GWS:wow::grin:

rondds,
Ive pulled the carpet out of the sides/stern of my boat.
Using deck paint for easy clean up instead of carpet.
I used a air tool Diegrinder with a wire wheel.
That cleaned up the glue and stuck pieces of carpet easy.

 

[rondds]

Tail
I too like the nice clean look of arctic white with a dark shade (as opposed to a color) to contrast. Your 260 look great and timeless!

PO of mine took the liberty of pulling the 900 stripes and strips of teal and black and replaced with one boot stripe, one along the salon extending to the fordeck and one more on the bridge.

Mark
The guy to talk to about re-stripin is Shawn (NorCalBoater). He's done quite a few jobs and can certainly discuss the pitfalls and perils as well as the tricks of the trade. He also had the mauve motif.

 

[wileecoyote]

I don't think restriping is in the cards for this year, yet. The deck stripe may need to come off, as it drives me crazy that the edges are rolling up. Right now I'm planning on getting the bottom paint and the hull below the bow stanchions done before spring so I can at least get the boat in the water, then work on stuff. Oh fresh water kit, zincs, bonding wire checks, and assorted problems.

 

[rondds]

Shifting gears here a bit...
Wondering what all you other "Pre-Clinton-ites" thought about this topic. We're all in the same boat (ha ha) when it comes to our fuel system components. Same engines, same aspiration, same manual fuel pumps, same rubber hoses, same age & same susceptibilities. Anyone think about this stuff ever? Anyone do anything about it?

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15805

 

[wileecoyote]

Shifting gears here a bit...
Wondering what all you other "Pre-Clinton-ites" thought about this topic. We're all in the same boat (ha ha) when it comes to our fuel system components. Same engines, same aspiration, same manual fuel pumps, same rubber hoses, same age & same susceptibilities. Anyone think about this stuff ever? Anyone do anything about it?

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15805

Did you ever reach a conclusion to that thread? Did you ever get another price quote? My fuel selectors have what appears to be clear line that runs straight over to the tank around the edge of the engine bay, They are real long. I was pondering replacement just the other day as a matter of fact. My port cockpit panel is off as I wanted to replace this rotted wood. If you look at this pic close you can see the fill and vent hoses http://www.flickr.com/photos/wileecoyotemoore/3141498953/sizes/l/ my surveyor recommended replace all fuel fill and vent hoses and check bonding wires to fill plate. I am in the process of reinstalling windows on my desktop, but I will try to take pics of how my lines are setup. My surveyor recommended that basicly any hose over 5 years old should be replaced. That would be pricey! But fuel and water hoses are on my checklist. Let me know what you find out.

 

[berth control]

Ron -
we are all in the "same boat" but my goodness - you have a pretty complicated fuel system. Mine consists of two hoses - one for each engine coming from the same tank. They go straight to the fuel pump on the motor, steel lines from there. The filler hose was all cracked, but that was recently replaced by the PO. Good luck with your project though. I envy your boat, but not your maintenance!

 

[MarkD]

Eric
No too complicated really, its more about redundancy. The way my boat (and probably Ron's) is set up consists of separate 125 gallon tanks. Each tank has separate fill/vent lines coming into it. Each tank also had separate outlet lines which first run to a shutoff valve, then fuel filter (the Fram bulkhead type), then to the fuel pump and then to a fuel/water seperator (I have racor 10 microns) and then to the carb inlet.

I have to recheck that order of components, but that is about right from what I recall. Unless I am having a senior moment. LOL.

You are right about maintenance though... the bigger the boat the bigger the bills relating to maintenance! i am still amazed how much more it costs to operate this boat vs my old 27' SR. i think the costs are 3x not 2. OUCH!!!!

 

[Sundancer]

I've been watching the ethanol debate for many years now. We owned the 87 DA for 8 years and sold it in 2008. We got the 89 in 2007 so old boat and old fuel hoses have been on my mind! Both still have the original hoses so I'm watching here and another local board that has a similar debate going on.

I saw something in the Sea Ray manual that talks about ethanol and how it will dissolve just about everything in it's path. I think that was way back (1988?) when they were talking about 15% (or something like that?) ethanol. Here in Washington it's primarily used as an "oxygenated" winter blend. I think it's used from October to March, but I'm not entirely sure. We've always trailered our boats and I've watched all of the threads about it. It reminds me of the Y2K bug! I know some Bertrams had fiberglass tanks and those did have problems. I know that ethanol blends will develop water problems if left long enough. I haven't heard many people that have ACTUAL experience with this, but I don't know that many people either. I figured those types of problems would show up on this board but I haven't seen much about it at all.

Anybody still have their original Halon fire extinguisher? I need to pull mine and check it again. I know SeaFire or somebody was running a deal where you could ship your old Halon fire extinguisher to them and they would replace it for half the cost of a brand new one. I don't know if they are still offering that or not.

 

[MarkD]

as to the Halon issue, i would take it out and weigh it. i belive there is a tag on the actual bottle which says min/max weight.

the question still remains about the insurance aspect. if you do this yourself, will it be "certified"??? doubtful.... you might have to get a professional to do that. personally, i wouldnt want to replace a perfectly good (i.e. working) halon unit with new unless there was a darn good reason to do so. call me cheap.

 

[Tail Chaser 661]

I changed out my fuel lines from the tank to the pump.
And replaced the steel line from the pump to the carb with a rubber fuel hose. Less chance of a vaper lock.
The filler hose and vent have not been changed yet.

My concern with older boats.
If any water can pool around the steel/alum gas tank.
It may rust/corrode causing a leak.
I need to pull the engine to check the tank.
Will check the tank when doing a repower.
Another thing I like about my 85 26DA
The tank is like 6'L x 4'W Its raised above the V bottom.
Only 1' on each end of the tank is flat on the bilge decking.
Not much chance of any pooling water around the tank :thumbsup:.

Sea Ray sure did a good job with these boats :grin:

One idea i'm toying with....Helping with the ethanol problem.
They say, The problem with a boat is....
The open vent hose.
That lets condensation in. Makes the fuel become stale sooner and helps the water/fuel in the tank separate sooner.

Seems to me... Putting a shutoff valve on the tank vent hose. Then shuting it off when the boat is not being used would be a good thing. :huh:
You just need to open the Vent hose valve when your running your engines.

 

[Sundancer]

as to the Halon issue, i would take it out and weigh it. i belive there is a tag on the actual bottle which says min/max weight.

the question still remains about the insurance aspect. if you do this yourself, will it be "certified"??? doubtful.... you might have to get a professional to do that. personally, i wouldnt want to replace a perfectly good (i.e. working) halon unit with new unless there was a darn good reason to do so. call me cheap.

I've done it in the past and as long as it's signed and weighed, I don't think it matters WHO did it. I heard something about pressure testing them and they have to empty it to do it. Well, that pretty much means a new system because there are few places that can empty your halon AND put it back in. I still had the original in the 87 and still have the original in the 89. I saw the coast guard has started putting limits on them. I think they had a date of 1984 or something like that. If it was older than that, it had to be replaced to be in compliance. I haven't actually SEEN that in writing, so I'm not sure. I'm sure that will start marching forward year by year.

I changed out my fuel lines from the tank to the pump.
And replaced the steel line from the pump to the carb with a rubber fuel hose. Less chance of a vaper lock.
The filler hose and vent have not been changed yet.

My concern with older boats.
If any water can pool around the steel/alum gas tank.
It may rust/corrode causing a leak.
I need to pull the engine to check the tank.
Will check the tank when doing a repower.
Another thing I like about my 85 26DA
The tank is like 6'L x 4'W Its raised above the V bottom.
Only 1' on each end of the tank is flat on the bilge decking.
Not much chance of any pooling water around the tank :thumbsup:.

Sea Ray sure did a good job with this boat:grin:

My tanks sit on shelves next to the engine so there is no chance of pooling in the 89 either. Access is pretty good. I had to replace the port fuel sender last year and there was an access point just for that purpose. NICE!!!