The Official 450 Express Bridge Owners Club

My Pronautic is model 12-50 (50 amp). Haven't the foggiest how to operate it if something goes wrong. It had to be "reset" by a mechanic early on for some reason. His remark was, "sometimes those things forget". Also have an Isoboost 50 transformer mounted in front of the Genset, pretty big thing on a stand, I suppose only related to regulating shore power and isolating stray current. At least I believe it to be it's only function.

I tried the reset, unfortunately no fix.

The pronautic is easy to use. Set for AGM and forget about it...lol.
 
I tried the reset, unfortunately no fix.

The pronautic is easy to use. Set for AGM and forget about it...lol.
How is your paint job coming along? Any idea on your ETA to be back in the water?
 
How is your paint job coming along? Any idea on your ETA to be back in the water?

Hahahaha...no idea. Props aren't back, port shaft seal still in work, and they pressure washed the bottom after sanding and the paint "flaked." Expecting another round of sanding. My guess 10 more days...ughh. Been on the hard since 28Feb....southern time.

My admiral has changed colors. We are going to Bicop TF Dark Blue and our boot stripes are now going to be Saphire and Metallic Teal. Going to look funny until we get the Navy canvas.

20220314_160509.jpg
 
Hahahaha...no idea. Props aren't back, port shaft seal still in work, and they pressure washed the bottom after sanding and the paint "flaked." Expecting another round of sanding. My guess 10 more days...ughh. Been on the hard since 28Feb....southern time.

My admiral has changed colors. We are going to Bicop TF Dark Blue and our boot stripes are now going to be Saphire and Metallic Teal. Going to look funny until we get the Navy canvas.

View attachment 122811
That will look great. The Bicop bottom paint gets great reviews.

https://www.seahawkpaints.com/product/bicop-tf/
 
That will look great. The Bicop bottom paint gets great reviews.

https://www.seahawkpaints.com/product/bicop-tf/
I see the Biocop on the Seahawk buying guide I have. Last June bottom job needed an ablative because it was determined that was the old application. So, Cukote was what the yard went with. Has the highest copper content. My criteria was simply wanting the best possible, and price was not a factor. I do hope to get 4-5 years out of it but was told that's optimistic. I wish I added Biocop TF, a slime reducing additive, pint to a gallon.
 
I see the Biocop on the Seahawk buying guide I have. Last June bottom job needed an ablative because it was determined that was the old application. So, Cukote was what the yard went with. Has the highest copper content. My criteria was simply wanting the best possible, and price was not a factor. I do hope to get 4-5 years out of it but was told that's optimistic. I wish I added Biocop TF, a slime reducing additive, pint to a gallon.

I am hoping for 2, maybe 3 seasons. About 600 hours.

Will be interesting to see the slime reduction beacuse we grow slime fast here.
 
Yes, they told me about 3 years, so my 4-5 is dreamin.
Btw, had running gear painted too. Would have to look that paint type up, not the same as the bottom paint.
 
Btw, had running gear painted too. Would have to look that paint type up, not the same as the bottom paint.

I am having everything but the props painted too. Having Propspeed done on the props at the prop shop. For the props, I can't see how they can paint bottom paint evenly enough to not throw the balance out.

Previous owner had all the running gear done, and surprisingly, it still had some left after 3 seasons.

I am also putting Lightspeed on the lights and Foulfree on my transducers.
 
First coat of bottom paint today, second coat tomorrow. Still waiting on props and boot stripes. Really need those new boot stripes with the blue paint.

20220323_161048.jpg
 

The boat yard asked me yesterday on some roughness and it was either sand again or soda blast, I told them next time. Checked on the boat today and they had put three coats of Bicop TF on trying to help smooth it a bit (nice of them). Not sure how soon "next time" will be with that much paint.
 
Any ideas on correcting the edge molding on my salon floor hatches. Top curvature of the molding is an annoying unevenness. Two images: one of two salon floor hatches, the other shows the cross section of one of the edge molding pieces that came loose. Edge moldings are glued onto the hatch and simply cover the void between the hatch and flooring.
Perhaps there are other ideas, but a T-shaped flat top SS edge might be a solution, flush and floor level, or even aluminum.
IMG_20220124_212539.jpg
IMG_20220124_211917.jpg
 
Any ideas on correcting the edge molding on my salon floor hatches. Top curvature of the molding is an annoying unevenness. Two images: one of two salon floor hatches, the other shows the cross section of one of the edge molding pieces that came loose. Edge moldings are glued onto the hatch and simply cover the void between the hatch and flooring.
Perhaps there are other ideas, but a T-shaped flat top SS edge might be a solution, flush and floor level, or even aluminum.View attachment 123100 View attachment 123101
Better image of a stock molding exactly like what I have. The rounded, elevated feature is what's annoying.
00451003.jpg
 
Any ideas on correcting the edge molding on my salon floor hatches. Top curvature of the molding is an annoying unevenness. Two images: one of two salon floor hatches, the other shows the cross section of one of the edge molding pieces that came loose. Edge moldings are glued onto the hatch and simply cover the void between the hatch and flooring.
Perhaps there are other ideas, but a T-shaped flat top SS edge might be a solution, flush and floor level, or even aluminum.View attachment 123100 View attachment 123101

Your floors are awesome. I still have carpet and have been thinking about this problem when I finally switch to LVP.

Aluminum might be cool, and could be anodized brown to be less conspicuous. Not sure how amazing stainless or bare/polished aluminum would look, but that look my be easier to maintain in the long term.

Wonder if there is a LVP product that wouldn't be so high?
 
Your floors are awesome. I still have carpet and have been thinking about this problem when I finally switch to LVP.

Aluminum might be cool, and could be anodized brown to be less conspicuous. Not sure how amazing stainless or bare/polished aluminum would look, but that look my be easier to maintain in the long term.

Wonder if there is a LVP product that wouldn't be so high?
Thanks on flooring. Yes, it really is nice and durable to boot. Prev owner. There is a flatter top T-shaped hardwood molding with rounded edges out there, but I love the idea of brown anodized aluminum. Big if is for it to blend in and not be conspicuous. Brushed aluminum would set off the hatch perimeter but totally conspicuous.
 
Thanks on flooring. Yes, it really is nice and durable to boot. Prev owner. There is a flatter top T-shaped hardwood molding with rounded edges out there, but I love the idea of brown anodized aluminum. Big if is for it to blend in and not be conspicuous. Brushed aluminum would set off the hatch perimeter but totally conspicuous.
Here's one much flatter than the high curvature edge molding I have. Perhaps if I take a piece to the home centers I can
 

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Here's one much flatter than the high curvature edge molding I have. Perhaps if I take a piece to the home centers I can
whoops...I can see n compare. Still thicker than a thin T-shaped metal edge
 
I just happen to be on the boat tonight to clean the sump and do some prep for this weekend. Here is our flooring installed by the third owner (we are the fifth). The trim is flush with the floor.
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