The Official 450 Express Bridge Owners Club

With boating season around the corner I checked out the market again to see if there were any new listings. How about "D'Anna" from Maryland! The cockpit cover is really nice on this boat and she appears to be very well cared for. Found the HIN and added it to the list on the first page. 110 boats on the unofficial registry now. Listed at $225,000
https://knot10.com/boat/2003-sea-ray-450-express-bridge/
Nicely kept. Might be somewhat underpriced but no dinghy. I still like my 3sr better, particularly with so much counter space from fridge to salon door. But, the dinette is only seating. No couches. W/D would go in 3rd sr cabinet but we've opted not to have one. We don't miss having one.
 
I have a Charles C-Power Isoboost 50, isolation transformer. It is mounted right in front of the generator on a stand to enable crawling under it to access the seacocks and bilge pumps beneath the genset. It's pretty big. Have to lay on top of it backwards to get my legs down into port, aft corner.
My galvanic isolator is starboard on the transom just above the starboard rudder post. I think all of our boats came with them. Mine is a finned black box.
 

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My galvanic isolator is starboard on the transom just above the starboard rudder post. I think all of our boats came with them. Mine is a finned black box.
Ok, quite different. I'll have to look for mine.
 
So, I have a potable water leak as evidenced by the pump engaging every 8-10 minutes for a brief second. Checked every faucet, examined bilge, nothing until beneath water heater a puddle. Checked all the external fittings. Have to take the cover off and peer inside for either a fitting or tubing pinhole. Could be original unit, now 22yo.
 
So, I have a potable water leak as evidenced by the pump engaging every 8-10 minutes for a brief second. Checked every faucet, examined bilge, nothing until beneath water heater a puddle. Checked all the external fittings. Have to take the cover off and peer inside for either a fitting or tubing pinhole. Could be original unit, now 22yo.
At 22 yo I wouldn't move that bitch 1 inch without having a proper replacement on hand. Easier said then done I'm sure, not mention the various connection parts the job will require.
Best of luck taking care of 1 of the great 450 EB's.
Keep us posted.
 
At 22 yo I wouldn't move that bitch 1 inch without having a proper replacement on hand. Easier said then done I'm sure, not mention the various connection parts the job will require.
Best of luck taking care of 1 of the great 450 EB's.
Keep us posted.

Agreed, there is a bilge pump underneath the aft stateroom stairs that will pump the water overboard if the leak gets worse but would absolutely have the new one ready because the 22 yo unit is probably going to disintegrate when you go to move it.
 
Hi All,

Changed my steering wheel and thought I would offer the original up to the 450EB folks before the the broader group. The adapter was trash as I had to drill out 4 of 6 screws holding the wheel on. The two other issues are a few nicks from a drill bit breaking, which you can't see as it is under the cover, and the aluminum ring that is inlaid into the rubber cover has some pitting. Other than that, it is in great shape. If anyone needs it, LMK.
 

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And my new wheel...
 

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Forrest,

Re your water heater leak, I have had several leaks down there, most the cold water push on fitting. Replacing it was the quick an easy fix. i just had another leak and turned out to be the Temp/Pressure valve. It was very slow, missed it the first time. A drop every few seconds.

Also, that compartment does not drain to the bilge under the aft stairs in aft cabin (at least on mine). I have had that water heater compartment fill to about 6-8" deep with water after plumbing failures. I now have 2 water alarms down there.

Good luck and let us know what you find.
 
Forrest,

Re your water heater leak, I have had several leaks down there, most the cold water push on fitting. Replacing it was the quick an easy fix. i just had another leak and turned out to be the Temp/Pressure valve. It was very slow, missed it the first time. A drop every few seconds.

Also, that compartment does not drain to the bilge under the aft stairs in aft cabin (at least on mine). I have had that water heater compartment fill to about 6-8" deep with water after plumbing failures. I now have 2 water alarms down there.

Good luck and let us know what you find.
Funny enough I didn't have a leak, @Jack O'Brien did, until yesterday and mine started leaking at that fitting you described.

That definitely drains to that aft bilge through that limber hole in the pic. You can see straight under the fresh water tanks to the bilge pump. We actually took the boat out last night, got it up on plane and all the water pumped over board.
 

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Uhmmm.....I do not have that limber hole. See the attached pic. And it makes complete sense to have it. As noted, I've had my water heater flood up to 6-8" of water. In addition to ruining the water heater, this is a huge safety issue with a flooded elect water heater.

I'm thinking about making this modification. In my pic, you will see holes I drilled to see if the flooded water had migrated under that floor. Some did, but I was able to vacuum it out.

Thanks for the info.
 

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Y
Uhmmm.....I do not have that limber hole. See the attached pic. And it makes complete sense to have it. As noted, I've had my water heater flood up to 6-8" of water. In addition to ruining the water heater, this is a huge safety issue with a flooded elect water heater.

I'm thinking about making this modification. In my pic, you will see holes I drilled to see if the flooded water had migrated under that floor. Some did, but I was able to vacuum it out.

Thanks for the info.
Now I am wondering if mine was done as a mod. Agree, if that water gets too high it gets right to the mains going to the heater. We need a few others to check their boats.
 
Forrest, yours looks factory done, but I could be wrong. The more I think about it, this should be a great mod. Not only for HW leaks, but the shower sump is down there, with all kinds of plumbing, bow thruster, etc. Does anyone know how much clearance is on the other side of that bulkhead? I'm thinking about using a 2"=3" hole saw, but with my luck, I'd end up drilling into my freshwater tank.....
 
Funny enough I didn't have a leak, @Jack O'Brien did, until yesterday and mine started leaking at that fitting you described.

That definitely drains to that aft bilge through that limber hole in the pic. You can see straight under the fresh water tanks to the bilge pump. We actually took the boat out last night, got it up on plane and all the water pumped over board.
I have that limber drain hole same place. And, residual standing water, not much, drained to the fwd sump below 3rd SR steps on proceeding to plane. Also, my heater sits in a different config. The connections face starboard and the heater is more aft of yours pictured. I should have taken an image when had the bed apart to access it. Slow drip must be and nothing wet, checked everything visible, except inside the heater box. I can also get a flashlight visual of the floor surface at heater via the hatch in front of fridge. Meanwhile, I can leave my potable pumps off when not needing water, but it's amazing how much it's needed!
 
I have that limber drain hole same place. And, residual standing water, not much, drained to the fwd sump below 3rd SR steps on proceeding to plane. Also, my heater sits in a different config. The connections face starboard and the heater is more aft of yours pictured. I should have taken an image when had the bed apart to access it. Slow drip must be and nothing wet, checked everything visible, except inside the heater box. I can also get a flashlight visual of the floor surface at heater via the hatch in front of fridge. Meanwhile, I can leave my potable pumps off when not needing water, but it's amazing how much it's needed!
Agreed, it is useful.

@LMBoat there is no clearance. The fresh water tanks are right against that bulkhead. I can actually see the bottom corner of the tank through that hole. If you got right up against the floor and the bulkhead you may be able to drill several 1/4" holes that would let water flow back to the sump. If you zoom in real close on my pic you can see the bulkhead and then a little step aft, that step is the fresh water tank.
 
I have a small slot in that bulkhead that allows water to drain to the sump pump below the stairs in the aft/third stateroom. You can barely see it in the bottom left corner of this picture:
SeaRay450WaterHeater.jpeg



My water heater is on its last legs and I plan on replacing it this year. I like how Larry has his set up. I'd sure like to drill holes like that to see if I have any water hiding under that floor.
 
When I replaced my WH, I turned it 90 degrees and slid it back (forward) to create more storage space. It fit easily without any modifications.
 
I have a small slot in that bulkhead that allows water to drain to the sump pump below the stairs in the aft/third stateroom. You can barely see it in the bottom left corner of this picture:
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My water heater is on its last legs and I plan on replacing it this year. I like how Larry has his set up. I'd sure like to drill holes like that to see if I have any water hiding under that floor.
@Shoyrtt

Jim, it looks like your engine hot water loop is plumbed? True?

Mine is not, and it doesn't look like @LMBoat is either.
 
Originally mine never was. The only reason I have that option in the current WH is that this was the only version available when I needed it. I thought I might hook it up some day, but so far never have. As I'm in So FL, the genset is usually running, so have not seen the need yet.
 
Originally mine never was. The only reason I have that option in the current WH is that this was the only version available when I needed it. I thought I might hook it up some day, but so far never have. As I'm in So FL, the genset is usually running, so have not seen the need yet.
Mine is the same, nice new stainless unit, has the engine loop, but gosh darn it's a long run and if it it compromised you lose and engine until it is bypassed.

Like Jim's stainless wrapped lines.
 

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