The big old 80's 340 owners thread

Torque on the manifolds are not the issue here. Could be torque on the risers/elbows. Shoddy mating surface prep or manhandling that frail gasket at the mating surface could have let water/coolant in. I agree, aftermarket stuff probably wasn't the root cause in this case. Where's Quincy when you need him?
 
still having difficulty getting more pics to down load. I will keep trying. She is looking good and is running great!
 
1/4"
 
I am sad to say that I own GLM manifolds and risers. When I got them I checked all the mating surfaces, and can say if just bolted up they would have been guaranteed to leak. Near the threaded holes on the top of the manifold where the riser bolts had a piece of casting that stuck about 1mm above the flat surface. On the opposite riser there was a similar issue where it appeared that the riser had been dropped and the edge had mushroomed in. I checked with a straightedge and took a fine file to them both to get the surfaces as close to flat without actually getting them milled. I ran them one full season on one engine before I bought the second set (by that time I figured I would get the same, so that in 3 years when they rot out the new OEMs will match)
Quality was very poor in the machining, but the casting doesn't look too bad compared to the Mercs. Chinese are all about volume, and not finish quality I guess.

Just happens that the new GLMs were on the engine I wasn't having the water intrusion issue on.
 
I'm In! :grin:

After plenty of searching, traveling long distances, encountering much bizarre behavior and emptying the bank account, I am now the very proud owner of a 1989 340 Dancer.

Thanks goes out to all of you have taken the time over the last couple of years to answer the array of questions that I've posed.

Very special thanks to Pyrojodge (a.k.a) Jason, for taking the time to respond to all the emails and answering just a ton of crazy questions that I've put to him. Even more cool, he also came out on the sea trial and pointed out stuff to me that only another 80's 340 owner would have known. There is no way I would have had the amount of confidence in buying this boat without Jason's input!


Thanks Jas, I owe you big!


She is filthy right now, but scheduled for a serious bath. Pictures will follow

Again, thanks to all,

-Mike
 
MIKE,
Thats what boatimg is about...helping people. You have a fine vessel and i am sure she will serve you well! :thumbsup:
 
Just be sure you remember to thank him when you start finding leaks on the headliner or rotted wood in places you never thought to look!! HA!:smt021

I never would have guessed the headache that getting the radar arch off and on would be. Little things like that are the ones that make you want to sink her and claim the insurance, If only the insurance could cover half of the time and effort you spend on the old tugs!

northshore said:
I'm In! :grin:

After plenty of searching, traveling long distances, encountering much bizarre behavior and emptying the bank account, I am now the very proud owner of a 1989 340 Dancer.

Thanks goes out to all of you have taken the time over the last couple of years to answer the array of questions that I've posed.

Very special thanks to Pyrojodge (a.k.a) Jason, for taking the time to respond to all the emails and answering just a ton of crazy questions that I've put to him. Even more cool, he also came out on the sea trial and pointed out stuff to me that only another 80's 340 owner would have known. There is no way I would have had the amount of confidence in buying this boat without Jason's input!


Thanks Jas, I owe you big!


She is filthy right now, but scheduled for a serious bath. Pictures will follow

Again, thanks to all,

-Mike
Click to expand...
 
ZC-406 Zinc Anode (B-12) ZC-406 1 36.50
R-3 Rudder Zinc Anode - R-3 2 9.91
3-3/4" Dia.
Camp X-5A Shaft Zinc X-5A 2 13.94
Anode - 1-1/4" Heavy

These were ordered from boatzincs. The large on on the transom, one on each tab, and one on each shaft.
 
After a long first weekend on our "New" 89 340 Bridge, I found that after a days run to find about 1 gallion of clear water in the bilge. Now I know some may be normal but having redone the packing on the shafts ( using GFO on all) and very little drip found, I have to find another source. I redid the raw water pumps and hoses but those look and feel dry after running. The one place I'm thinking is that we ran the 2 air systems all night before each days trips so I'm thinking the condensation was running down into the bilge from each unit. Could this be a water in the bilge source?
 
Fred
I see you boat in fresh water so I can't tell you to taste it for salt! The shaft logs need to be tweeked a bunch of times before you get them just right. Could be your rudder posts, could be a leak in the fresh water system, could be the AC as you said. If it's the freshwater system, you'd hear the pump cycle on every now and then.

The forward AC unit has a tray and a piece of hose that carries the dripped condensate down to the bowels (probably the sump). Check that hose and be sure it's connected to the tray. Coming up on plane will dump the contents of the tray but that would wet the floor in the forward stateroom (ask me how I know).

These old boats will also leak rain water into the bilge - not sure how - my boat will have water in the bilge sometimes when on land and no systems even activated yet.

Check the fittings on your hot water heater, but again, you'd hear the pump activate every now and then.

I keep my bilge shop-vac'd dry so I can tell when water's getting in - and no matter what I do, it's always getting in - somehow!
 
Thanks for the quick replys. I made up a neat water pump from a fresh water system that uses a 6' lead with gator clips to the battery. Using this I can get almost every drop out quickly and being portabel I can use it for anything water wise. Running a clear hose out the transom door I keep the bilge nice and dry until this weekend and running it all over the place. Nothing perplexing than something leaking and you cannot see any thing wrong. I have to keep checking. :thumbsup:
 
Has anyone replaced the original black rubber around the windshield that holds the glass in. Mine is shrunken like everyone elses im sure and wanted to see if anyone has had success with finding a suitable replacement.
 
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