Stainless Steel Manifold Hi-Tek Past Experience and recommendations?

N369RM

N369RM

Member
Jan 1, 2010
111
Destin Florida
Boat Info
1998 270 DA
Engines
7.4 Merc, Bravo III
Like everyone here, I have to encounter the issue of replacement of the manifold and risers. Yet, I am at a loss to determine if the after market stainless is worth it?

http://www.hitekmarine.com.au/products.htm seems to make great claims.

What I want to know for those who are in a salt water enviroment, did you replace with Hi-Tek stainless?

What was the cost per engine?

How much more did it cost to go with SS than cast iron?

What was the labor costs?

What are the results?

Would you do it again?

Thanks!

Ron & Deborah Mason
1998 270
7.4 single engine
 
Contact Bucit (Perry), he just bought a set for his 280, I think he got them for same price as Mercruiser OEM's, but he has the dry joint set-ups, which are more costly than the older set-ups, like you and I have.
 
I bought HI-Tek SS manifolds for my 340 in 2010... I am in salt water


Answers to your questions:

The cost per engine: I believe it was $1,750 ($3,500 for the 2 sets)

How much more: About the same price a OEM cast, at that time, which was $3,200. I used the cast price to drive down the Hi-Tek price.

Install costs: This where I made a mistake. I paid a marina to install them... I should have installed them myself. But is was about $1,000. I had some bolts that had to be taken out with easy outs.

The results: Less weight, and a bit more power.... They look cool too

Would I do it again: This is your best question... Maybe. I had a problem with two of my manifolds, and HiTek sent me new ones... I have the defective ones, I was trying to sell them for Alan.... I gave them to a friend here on CSR, who I work with, and he brought to a machine shop to see if they can be repaired... The machine shopped fixed them for $150, but they did not fit on my friends boat, as he has straight inboards and I have V drives... Bottom line is, I have have an extra set for a 454 V-Drive... Not sure what HI-TEK will want me to do with them...

If I would buy them again, I would have installed with Mercruiser gaskets with HiTemp gasket sealer. I would use small headed SS bolts too...

If you plan on owning your boat for a long time I would say they are a good investment...

There are zinc on each manifold that have to be changed... I have to install my zincs with Teflon tape to keep them from leaking... It is a annoying...







N369RM said:
Like everyone here, I have to encounter the issue of replacement of the manifold and risers. Yet, I am at a loss to determine if the after market stainless is worth it?

http://www.hitekmarine.com.au/products.htm seems to make great claims.

What I want to know for those who are in a salt water enviroment, did you replace with Hi-Tek stainless?

What was the cost per engine?

How much more did it cost to go with SS than cast iron?

What was the labor costs?

What are the results?

Would you do it again?

Thanks!

Ron & Deborah Mason
1998 270
7.4 single engine
Click to expand...
 
I replaced mine with Hi-Tek's system for $2K per engine (including shipping). On my set up it was cheaper than OEM, especially with the free shipping. I did the installation so I can not comment on that cost, It took me about 8 hours over two weekends with the help of a friend who is a automotive tech. I also boat in salt water and the headers have sacrificial anodes which they recommend changing every 6 months. After one full season I am happy with the product.
 
I have not received mine yet but should be anyday now. I have 2005 motors with the dry joint set up and I paid the same as I would have with OEM. I felt as though my boat was sluggish getting on plane with a full load and 6 adults (most sitting in the back) so the weight differnce alone should really help. Hopefully I will experiance some gains in HP and fuel consumption. I know my fule burn at certain RPM's so I will know for sure if they help or not. I did order the MErcruiser gaskets and we'll see about the bolts. I'm not sure if I will have a problem or not since the 4.3"s give me a little extra room in the ER. I will follow up on this thread with pictures, performance reviews and my overall feeling.
 
Would converting to a closed water cooling system change the need for every three year replacement os these manifolds and risers in salt water?

If anyone has changed to a closed cooling water system, what was the cost?

Does Hi-Tek Marine offer a stainless steel system for this as well?

Did it have any real effect on the need to swap manifolds out as often?

Would you do that again as well?

It seems we have options and everyone is looking for the best and most cost effective way to protect these engines.

Thanks for everyone's imput.

Ron and Deborah Mason
1998 270
7.4 Brovo III
 
I have closed water cooled (FWC) engines, and the manifolds are the same for RWC or FWC. I would not recommend changing to FWC from a RWC. There is a thread on someone on CSR who converted and had a lot over overheating problems due to salt deposit restrictions in the engine. You can search for the thread... It was PITA for the guy who converted...

Why not just add a fresh water wash down on your engine? It would be less costly and limit the possibility of overheating...
 
I talked to the owner of Hi-Teck and he seems to make a good case for stainless upgrade that in his view will eliminate the need for future replacements of BOTH the manifolds and the risers.

He sees no need to convert to a closed water system from fresh water with this change.

I certainly agree that a good wash out system is needed for raw salt water use.

Thanks!

Ron & Deborah Mason
1998 270 DA
7.4 Bravo III drive
 
Some of the "closed cooling" systems are actually 1/2 systems like on my Merc 8.1's. Glycol circulates through the engine to an exchanger where it is cooled by the passing sea-water. That sea-water then goes directly to the exhaust manifold systems to cool them and is ejected just past the end of the riser into the rubber exhaust hose and back out to the sea-water. Hence the term "1/2 closed cooled". It's the sea-water in the manifolds that causes problems!

According to those in the know, some of the systems have a fully closed cooling system (like the 8.1 Crusaders). The difference is that glycol travels into and back out of the exhaust manifolds but the exchanger must be of higher capacity in order to properly cool both the engine and manifolds. Sea-water after going through the exchanger bypasses the manifolds and is introduced into the rubber hose just past the manifolds. I'm not sure, but I believe sea water is introduced into the riser (which would cause the riser's to be suspect for corrosion anyway).

With either system, at least the engine's internals are not continually bathed in sea-water!
 
Just an update on the Hi-Tek manifolds. Allen, the owner was very good at returning calls/emails to make the sale but since I've ordered these manifolds I cannot get a hold of him. He told me 2 1/2 to 3 weeks for delivery (it's 3 weeks today) and I've emailed him twice but have not gotten anything in return. Starting to get nervous and hopefully I made the right decision?
 
Don't worry, There only take 2 days to ship... The delay time is due to the limited production line. HiTEK will send you the tracking number once the ship... I suspect you will be hearing soon... I prefer to e-mail because the cost of calling...
 
rcknecht said:
Don't worry, There only take 2 days to ship... The delay time is due to the limited production line. HiTEK will send you the tracking number once the ship... I suspect you will be hearing soon... I prefer to e-mail because the cost of calling...
Click to expand...

I agree but I would think he would/should or could at least respond via email or phone call.
 
Bucit said:
I agree but I would think he would/should or could at least respond via email or phone call.
Click to expand...

your right he should, but I suspect he has not built them yet and is waiting until he has something to say... I found Alan to be an honest guy, but more persistent before the sale than after...
 
rcknecht said:
Don't worry, There only take 2 days to ship... The delay time is due to the limited production line. HiTEK will send you the tracking number once the ship... I suspect you will be hearing soon... I prefer to e-mail because the cost of calling...
Click to expand...

I agree but I still think he would/could or should have returned my email. He was very persistent in making the sale and now it seems like he disappeared?
 
Hi-Tek screwed up my original order, they sent me units for outdrives instead of V-Drives. Allen picked up the return shipping and had new units to me in 4 weeks. The way they operate is the engineering is done in Australia and the units are fabricated in China, that is why there is a delay as he doesnt have a lot of stock sitting on the shelf. During the ordering process he called me several times, he doesn't do the e-mail thing very well. I found him to be reliable
 
Bucit:

Did you ever get your exhaust installed? How would you rate them?

Ron Mason
1998 270 DA
7.4 Bravo III
 
N369RM said:
Bucit:

Did you ever get your exhaust installed? How would you rate them?

Ron Mason
1998 270 DA
7.4 Bravo III
Click to expand...

I've been fighting walking pneumonia for a while now but finally got them installed. The are harder to install than the originals but overall they look nice. Our weather turned sour so I've only had the boat out once since install. They seem to be quiter than OEM and it looks like I'm saving 1-1.5gph at 3200rpm's. I open her up to WOT and was burning 30gph which is lower than originally. I wanted to do a few more runs to see if my numbers were correct before posting but haven't had the chance. I may get it out this Sunday if not it will be another week before I can run her. I will let you know.
 
I just reinstalled one of my HiTek manifolds, and set record time on the install... It took only about an hour... I guess practice makes perfect... I put this one on wet, and I used small head bolts for the hard to get bolts... I also now have a set of angle wrenches... The hour also include change the spark plugs, and zinc on the side I reinstalled the manifold...
 
rcknecht said:
I just reinstalled one of my HiTek manifolds, and set record time on the install... It took only about an hour... I guess practice makes perfect... I put this one on wet, and I used small head bolts for the hard to get bolts... I also now have a set of angle wrenches... The hour also include change the spark plugs, and zinc on the side I reinstalled the manifold...
Click to expand...

I've found that using a swivel socket (one that is all inclusive and not a swivl with an additional socket on the end) works great. My starboard motor went very smooth compared to the port motor.
 
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