Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Looks like it's all coming together nicely. Good work.
Sliding door repair 340EC
- Thread starter wileecoyote
- Start date
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
Not fast enough Todd. It's been really cold here this winter, which has hindered progress. I just wanted to be sure and keep these part #'s together before I lost/forgot them.
giff1
Member
- Feb 9, 2009
- 265
- Boat Info
- 340 EC 1987
- Engines
- Repowered 454's MarinePower
Good to see you progressing with the door. Much thanks on all the info. It is what this web site is all about. In an earlier posts I said my middle sliding door is sticking. I will address it before spring, too much snow on the boat till now. Maybe the Baltimore boat show next week will bring me out of hibernation.
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
Sticking how? If you mean while rolling, you can maybe lay down and see the rollers in the channel. Look at the pics of mine. When the ball bearings lock up the wheel slides instead of roll and makes a nasty flat spot. I was planning on going to the show, but I have a B-day party to go to the day I was planning. May take off and go on Fri.
giff1
Member
- Feb 9, 2009
- 265
- Boat Info
- 340 EC 1987
- Engines
- Repowered 454's MarinePower
I believe the port side roller has gone flat or broke. I can't get a good look at it since it is the middle door. So, I will pull the teak molding off and take the door off the tracks. At that time I'll know if the rollers are the same as the ones you replaced.
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
Any luck getting a look? I'd bet that it is the same. Judging by the instruction manual which lists the directions for 1984-1989 EC's. I just got the pocket door all together and I'll try to get it in if I have a chance. I have pics of the lage door going in, but have yet to edit and add notes to them. It took a bit of adjustment as I had to replace the 2 X 2's that are under both the track itself and the one that the bottom of the helm screws to.The difficulty is getting the door at the right angle so it will contact the pocket door properly, and at the same time making sure it slides properly without dragging on the plastic guide blocks. I hope to have better updates soon.
I hope the doors are installed and all together soon.
rondds
Well-Known Member
- Oct 3, 2006
- 8,859
- Boat Info
- 2001 380DA
- Engines
- Merc 8.1s (2008)...Hurth ZF 63 V-drives...WB 7.0 BCGD (2013), Garmin 8208 & 740 MFDs, GMR 24xHD dome
Looking forward to the pix Mark!
giff1
Member
- Feb 9, 2009
- 265
- Boat Info
- 340 EC 1987
- Engines
- Repowered 454's MarinePower
Willee, the snow piles around the boat have melted and I was able to get on her today without wearing snow shoes. I've taken a good look at the teak door frame and will disassemble it this weekend. Look forward to your pictures.
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
I have new pics up on my Flickr page. They are hard to see and really not that useful. I will post some here that may help.
1) The pocket door ready to be installed (tomorrow I hope). Yes that is my laundry room and washer and dryer.
2) The teak refinished with Cetol.
3) The 2X2 support under the track was rotten, not completely but from the inside out. Has the weight of cardboard.
1) The pocket door ready to be installed (tomorrow I hope). Yes that is my laundry room and washer and dryer.
2) The teak refinished with Cetol.
3) The 2X2 support under the track was rotten, not completely but from the inside out. Has the weight of cardboard.
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
If anyone was following this I have written up a small photo tutorial. If you have any questions/comments, let me know.
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28094
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28094
rondds
Well-Known Member
- Oct 3, 2006
- 8,859
- Boat Info
- 2001 380DA
- Engines
- Merc 8.1s (2008)...Hurth ZF 63 V-drives...WB 7.0 BCGD (2013), Garmin 8208 & 740 MFDs, GMR 24xHD dome
Mark
Incredible job and a great presentation.
Incredible job and a great presentation.
giff1
Member
- Feb 9, 2009
- 265
- Boat Info
- 340 EC 1987
- Engines
- Repowered 454's MarinePower
I tried to link to the photo tutorial thread but received an vBulletin message which said I do not have permission to access this page. I still like to see the photos,any ideas how I can access them. Last week I took my sliding middle door out. I found a screw had backed out from the bottom inside frame. This is what prevented my middle door from opening. I glued and tighten the screw then cleaned and lubed the rollers, works great now.
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
I'm not sure why you can't access it. Maybe the tutorials page is for members only. I will copy and add it to the end of the other
thread.
thread.
rondds
Well-Known Member
- Oct 3, 2006
- 8,859
- Boat Info
- 2001 380DA
- Engines
- Merc 8.1s (2008)...Hurth ZF 63 V-drives...WB 7.0 BCGD (2013), Garmin 8208 & 740 MFDs, GMR 24xHD dome
Mark
The tutorial is in CLUB LEVEL and you cant get in there unless you are a sponsor (silver, gold, platinum, copper, manganese or otherwise)
The tutorial is in CLUB LEVEL and you cant get in there unless you are a sponsor (silver, gold, platinum, copper, manganese or otherwise)
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
My apologies. When I get home I will try to post it on the end of this thread. I didn't pay attention to it being club level only access. I was trying to avoid multiple postings, so I wouldn't get my hand whacked with the ruler. Paying for sponsorship is worth the cost to access the tutorial thread just for the good info there. Thanks for the info Ron. Great photo of lil krissy in your sig!
Last edited:
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
I have another thread with some of this info, but promised to make a photo tutorial. There are more photos on my Flickr page, but I didn't want to hog up all the space on the website (as if I hadn't used enough already!) http://www.flickr.com/photos/wileecoyotemoore/
To remove the door you will need to pull the helm back about 12" to get to the screws on the upper and lower guide channel.
To remove the lower teak, you must remove all of the teak plugs from the port side all the way to starboard. This includes the large piece under the helm as well as the thin piece under the pocket door and the vertical piece the joins the 2. Notice all the spots where the teak plugs used to be. There are screws under these going to either the floor or the 2X2 wood that the helm rests on. What I did to remove the teak plugs is to use a screw slightly smaller than the plug diameter and run it in with a screw gun. Once the screw bottoms out it will force the plug out as it runs up the threads.
Removing this trim allows you to get to the screws that hold the metal channel that runs under and above the doors. This locks in the Delrin/Acetal guides that retain the door from jumping off the track. After the lower teak is removed there are several screws that run through the fiberglass at the bottom of the helm and into the 2X2 wood block and then through to the floor. Notice that this is after I replaced the wood which was rotted out from water settling in this area. I coated the new wood with a coating of fiberglass resin and made sure to seal the ends.
Once you remove the lower screws there will be 4-5 screws holding the upper portion of the helm to the dash fiberglass. You can see this on the second picture below showing the upper channel. I used a 4X4 block that was laying around the boatyard to set the helm on as it was pulled back. I kept it from falling away too much by steadying it with a bungee.
NOTE: The helm is very heavy! You may want some help here getting the block underneath while one slides it back!
On the picture below, you will see the lower channel loose. You can see how this exposes the guide blocks.
The same goes for the upper, as you can see once the teak is removed and the helm is pulled back. There are 3 screws hidden up here behind the helm and I believe 4 more on the port side above the opening and the pocket door.
With the channels removed you should be able to lift the lower portion of the door out of the slide channel and pull back out of the top guide. You can then carefully slide the door toward port and around the area where the door usually stops. The same goes for the pocket door.
Here is the main problem. My lower main rollers were locked up and they had been slid on the nylon roller for so long that the nylon had worn away and it was sliding metal on metal! Now that's ugly!
Once the doors were removed I disassembled them and had them blasted and painted. I looked into powdercoating, but it was just easier. Now, that said, if it only lasts for 5 years it will be a bad decision!
The next post will list parts needed to replace the hardware in the doors.
To remove the door you will need to pull the helm back about 12" to get to the screws on the upper and lower guide channel.
To remove the lower teak, you must remove all of the teak plugs from the port side all the way to starboard. This includes the large piece under the helm as well as the thin piece under the pocket door and the vertical piece the joins the 2. Notice all the spots where the teak plugs used to be. There are screws under these going to either the floor or the 2X2 wood that the helm rests on. What I did to remove the teak plugs is to use a screw slightly smaller than the plug diameter and run it in with a screw gun. Once the screw bottoms out it will force the plug out as it runs up the threads.
Removing this trim allows you to get to the screws that hold the metal channel that runs under and above the doors. This locks in the Delrin/Acetal guides that retain the door from jumping off the track. After the lower teak is removed there are several screws that run through the fiberglass at the bottom of the helm and into the 2X2 wood block and then through to the floor. Notice that this is after I replaced the wood which was rotted out from water settling in this area. I coated the new wood with a coating of fiberglass resin and made sure to seal the ends.
Once you remove the lower screws there will be 4-5 screws holding the upper portion of the helm to the dash fiberglass. You can see this on the second picture below showing the upper channel. I used a 4X4 block that was laying around the boatyard to set the helm on as it was pulled back. I kept it from falling away too much by steadying it with a bungee.
NOTE: The helm is very heavy! You may want some help here getting the block underneath while one slides it back!
On the picture below, you will see the lower channel loose. You can see how this exposes the guide blocks.
The same goes for the upper, as you can see once the teak is removed and the helm is pulled back. There are 3 screws hidden up here behind the helm and I believe 4 more on the port side above the opening and the pocket door.
With the channels removed you should be able to lift the lower portion of the door out of the slide channel and pull back out of the top guide. You can then carefully slide the door toward port and around the area where the door usually stops. The same goes for the pocket door.
Here is the main problem. My lower main rollers were locked up and they had been slid on the nylon roller for so long that the nylon had worn away and it was sliding metal on metal! Now that's ugly!
Once the doors were removed I disassembled them and had them blasted and painted. I looked into powdercoating, but it was just easier. Now, that said, if it only lasts for 5 years it will be a bad decision!
The next post will list parts needed to replace the hardware in the doors.
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
I think I have most all of the parts, so I'm going to do a short list of the parts you'll need. I have had to make lots of calls and have been unable to find these listed anywhere else. Hope this isn't too long.
On the top of the door there is a roller on the very top that holds the door out, and a brass wheeled roller that holds it up off of the channel. The following picture may be hard to understand, but just picture it being from the inside and upside down.
The B-605 looks much different than in this pic. There is a spring loaded section that needs to be removed by drilling and removing the swivel pin. You will then need to match up the old one and drill a second hole. They need to be exact so the threads in the door match the hole location. You will be drilling from the opposite side where it is bent over instead of solid as it is in this view. Note the part is the B-605.
These are the rollers on the bottom of the door. If you look at the earlier pics these were the ones that were totally locked up, and had worn the nylon down. This was a pain to get because the proper 1/2 wide housing only comes with the steel wheel. I had to order the housing seperate from the wheel and axle. It's hard to tell, but the axle doesn't fit well in this housing, it will slide out the side if not loaded. The rep at Prime-Co tells me this is not a problem as the axle is contained in the frame. You will notice that on the right one you can see the shoulder isn't contained in the housing.
If you notice on the picture below that there are slides that are contained under the plate that holds the door in place. This plate is what needs to be removed to allow the door to pull out. As you can see there are a number of these broken. This is a 3/8X3/8X3" acetal block. I ordered a 24" piece that I will cut down to the 3" size and drill and countersink.
Last, (I hope) There is a slick tape on the upper channel that the brass roller runs on. It was somewhat torn up just from years of use. There are many tapes at McMaster Carr. I got item# 7344A32. It's a 2" wide tape .012" thick. You can hardly see the tape after it was installed. Yours may be in good shape, mine was all chewed up. You can see it at the upper left of the picture where the door would slide if moved to the left.
One extra note: I had to replace the 2X2 under the lower portion of the door guide as shown in the earlier pictures. Make sure, before you screw it down that the door is in an that it slides good WITH the upper plate mounted and the guide blocks retained. I had to adjust the channel out slightly to make sure that it didn't hold up on the blocks, but still engaged the 90deg block at the end without hitting the inner edge of the large door. Be careful to check the doors motion before everything is screwed down. Here's a pic of the rotten wood. I know it's hard to see, but you can see all the rotten wood laying around that was caught behind the guide plate.
This is the door installed prior to the teak being screwed down and caulked back in place. The helm is still back as well since I was running some wires back there(now is a great time to do it!)
On the top of the door there is a roller on the very top that holds the door out, and a brass wheeled roller that holds it up off of the channel. The following picture may be hard to understand, but just picture it being from the inside and upside down.
The B-605 looks much different than in this pic. There is a spring loaded section that needs to be removed by drilling and removing the swivel pin. You will then need to match up the old one and drill a second hole. They need to be exact so the threads in the door match the hole location. You will be drilling from the opposite side where it is bent over instead of solid as it is in this view. Note the part is the B-605.
These are the rollers on the bottom of the door. If you look at the earlier pics these were the ones that were totally locked up, and had worn the nylon down. This was a pain to get because the proper 1/2 wide housing only comes with the steel wheel. I had to order the housing seperate from the wheel and axle. It's hard to tell, but the axle doesn't fit well in this housing, it will slide out the side if not loaded. The rep at Prime-Co tells me this is not a problem as the axle is contained in the frame. You will notice that on the right one you can see the shoulder isn't contained in the housing.
If you notice on the picture below that there are slides that are contained under the plate that holds the door in place. This plate is what needs to be removed to allow the door to pull out. As you can see there are a number of these broken. This is a 3/8X3/8X3" acetal block. I ordered a 24" piece that I will cut down to the 3" size and drill and countersink.
Last, (I hope) There is a slick tape on the upper channel that the brass roller runs on. It was somewhat torn up just from years of use. There are many tapes at McMaster Carr. I got item# 7344A32. It's a 2" wide tape .012" thick. You can hardly see the tape after it was installed. Yours may be in good shape, mine was all chewed up. You can see it at the upper left of the picture where the door would slide if moved to the left.
One extra note: I had to replace the 2X2 under the lower portion of the door guide as shown in the earlier pictures. Make sure, before you screw it down that the door is in an that it slides good WITH the upper plate mounted and the guide blocks retained. I had to adjust the channel out slightly to make sure that it didn't hold up on the blocks, but still engaged the 90deg block at the end without hitting the inner edge of the large door. Be careful to check the doors motion before everything is screwed down. Here's a pic of the rotten wood. I know it's hard to see, but you can see all the rotten wood laying around that was caught behind the guide plate.
This is the door installed prior to the teak being screwed down and caulked back in place. The helm is still back as well since I was running some wires back there(now is a great time to do it!)
magicmoments
New Member
hi....having trouble finding sliders you mentioned you might have spare and could give me part numbers and mft name thanks
- Oct 18, 2008
- 949
- Boat Info
- 1989 340 EC
- Engines
- 7.4LX2 Hurth 630A Drives
6.5Kw QS Genny
Just checked to see if there were any of those wheels laying around. I dont have any, I do have 2 of the 605's and 2 of the 3052's. Now for the important rollers, I'm not sure the real correct ones. I used either the D1871 or the D1758 from CRL. I believe the 1758 is the proper on as it is 1/2 wide. There was nothing to retain it to the channel, mine was wedged in tight because the width was too wide. Since the door sits on the roller you would only need it from sliding inside the channel. If needed I'm guessing you could retain it however you want as long as you do it from the bottom.
Phils
New Member
HiOld thread common problem, I have stripped mine down etc and am about to reassemble, problem is stripped it four months ago.
In this thread it talks about a tutorial, is there one, lots of pics etc would make it all so much quicker!
Thanks
Phil
89 ec
In this thread it talks about a tutorial, is there one, lots of pics etc would make it all so much quicker!
Thanks
Phil
89 ec
