Sliding door repair 340EC

Wile, I'm glad you are doing this first. Two weeks ago on the last day in the water and with no warning,my middle door stuck. :smt013
I hope after following you on this project,my door will also be able to slide next year with two fingers. My main door is cracked and someday I'll address it. There is another member with a 340 on this site that is having a new door made in Annapolis(Maritime Plastics). Hopefully he will post his experience on job & price.
 
I took the large door apart tonight (except one section which has a stripped bolt head, which I need to drill out tomorrow.) I am going to strip all the aluminum pieces and prep it with some aluminum primer before painting. I was crossing my fingers, and being very careful, with the acrylic glass panel. You can see the panel below. Notice at the bottom how dirty it is, this is the section that stays behind the helm.
4148577963_0395edefa2.jpg
 
Those sliders look exactly like what is in my 390. I bought some from Lowes and had to shave the pin that holds the roller on to get it inside the track. I believe I have an unopened one on the boat and I have to go down there today to start getting it ready to ship to Panama City so I'll try to find it to get you the part #.
 
Heres the latest, I got the rollers, but it appears that the bottom rollers I got are incorrect. The width is 9/16, which I thought would fit (due to the loose side to side fit of the 1/2) but I don't want to wedge them in there, which is what I would have to do. Looks like the part # from Slide-Co is the right one. I had already ordered the others, so I'll have to get the right ones. Right now I'm working on stripping and painting the framework. Let you know when something else is ready.
 
bduncan1231 said:
Those sliders look exactly like what is in my 390. I bought some from Lowes and had to shave the pin that holds the roller on to get it inside the track. I believe I have an unopened one on the boat and I have to go down there today to start getting it ready to ship to Panama City so I'll try to find it to get you the part #.
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Ehi bduncan you say you own a complete makeover 390...why do not share some photos of it with us???
It seem there someone interested in getting new ideas :wink::wink::wink::smt100
May be you want to put them in my thread http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25740
 
Emailed Slide-Co/ Primeline parts because the 132320 is shown as a steel roller and I needed nylon. I was told to contact one of the distributors and they could place a special order for the part with a Nylon wheel. When I get the quote back I'll know more. I have the paint stripped off the main door and will begin on the pocket door next. Next thing is to find the small weatherstrip that runs inside the doors to seal to the overlap. Looks pretty useless to me, but I'm going to try and find replacement anyhow. More pics will be coming.
 
New update. I had to special order the parts. Todd was right on with the part number, but you have to special order them with the nylon rollers instead of the steel ones. I ordered them from AAAscreen.com Part #'s are as follows: D-1758*1(housing) D-1502*D(Wheel) X4 Also there is a strip of pile weatherstripping on the doors. I had to order a 100' roll and only need about 15'. If you have the same doors let me know, I may be able to send you some, depending on the shipping costs. Maybe those USPS flat rate boxes would be cheap?
 
OK, Here's the pics of the large door frame all cleaned up. Trying to decide if it's worth powder coating, or just having it painted. The cost to powder coat, I think, would be very high. If anyone out there does this for a living can you estimate what you think it would cost?
4172749151_fb26bb6d71.jpg
4172749155_f9693d4358.jpg
 
I've just stumbled on this post and since we're probably going to need to address our cracked slider sooner or later I'm really glad to follow you guys.

A little back ground - purchased our '88 340ec last April on Lake Champlain where we've boated for many years. Sold our Silverton 31c the year before. It just didn't stack up to our previous boat, an '88 340da which was great and we probably never should have sold it. Though I like the way the ec handles better and its got a lot fewer hours (400) on the engines.

Mechanically, it's in good shape, but there's lots of cosmetic work and some electrical work to do. The boat sat for a long time (5 years) lots of mice and mildew, etc. (yuck!).

Forgive me if I've crossed any forum lines, this is only the second time I've posted anything. Hope to glean lots of knowledge from all of you.

Julie & Bill
 
Wilee... try some of these places. Some of my friends have had work done at AFI Powder Coating in Jessup, MD and they were happy. I called them about bringing in a frame from a 70 chevelle, and they quoted around $700 for both cleaning (not sure if it was sand blasting or acid dipping) and powder coating. I can't imagine it being that expensive to do your small pieces.

Michael
 
Willybgood said:
I've just stumbled on this post and since we're probably going to need to address our cracked slider sooner or later I'm really glad to follow you guys.

A little back ground - purchased our '88 340ec last April on Lake Champlain where we've boated for many years. Sold our Silverton 31c the year before. It just didn't stack up to our previous boat, an '88 340da which was great and we probably never should have sold it. Though I like the way the ec handles better and its got a lot fewer hours (400) on the engines.

Mechanically, it's in good shape, but there's lots of cosmetic work and some electrical work to do. The boat sat for a long time (5 years) lots of mice and mildew, etc. (yuck!).

Forgive me if I've crossed any forum lines, this is only the second time I've posted anything. Hope to glean lots of knowledge from all of you.

Julie & Bill
Click to expand...

Welcome, Is the acrylic cracker, or the rollers? There is someone else here (sorry can't remember who) that is getting a new "glass" made. I haven't heard any updates on it, I'm curious to know how it goes when they get it done.
Read through this thread, it has alot of good info from alot of members with boats in the same age group.

SKIBUM, I may call the guys in Mechanicsville, due to the fact they are closer to me. I have a guy who may paint it for me, and he is convinced that the paint will be just fine as long as the aluminum is primed with the proper etching primer. I'll see if I can get a quote from one of those places.
 
I decided to go the route of painting the frame. I was assured it would be fine and without checking was cheaper than powdercoating. I put some vaseline on the seals and placed them on the acrylic first, then tapped the frame over the seals. Here are some pics of the door assembled (except the handle and hardware). I put some blue loctite on the screws, because the threads are into an open channel. After time the channel spreads and I wanted to be sure it all stayed tight. I'm not sure if you can see it in the pic on the bottom, but at the end near the head it's spread out on the bottom. Also I forgot to mention, You will notice on the RH side of the acrylic all the dirt and dust. I left this on here to show how much of the door stays behind the helm even with it all the way closed.
4186342798_c0ed4de7dd_b.jpg

4186334642_99ce46a111.jpg
 
After a long wait I finally got in the special ordered rollers. They sent me the body and the rollers seperately. Only problem is, they sent me the steel wheels! I emailed back and asked if the nylon wheels from the original rollers I got from CRL would fit and they told me that they would work just fine. I will transfer the wheels and put them on the door. Right now I am waiting for the Acetel guide blocks to come in and the low friction tape strip I ordered from McMaster Carr. The tape goes up to where the brass wheels roll on the horizontal surface. When I am done, I will try to post a parts list with numbers and a photo guide for removal. With the weather as crappy as it has been lately I have made little progress on anything else, I'm hoping if it gets above the 30's-40's I wil be able to reset the door and take the assembly photos. I didn't take any removal pics, but should be pretty easy to describe with the install pics.
 
Nehalennia said:
Wilee
That looks very similar to Slide-co rollers commonly used on sliding doors. I'm a locksmith and recognized that one of these may work. I believe part # 132320 is the one on page 36.
http://www.slide-co.com/scatalog/SC_DCE.pdf

I hope that helps. I'll let you verify the dimensions. Let me know if you need help ordering.
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I'm not a locksmith, but was thinking the same thing with regards to application. I had to replace them on a friends home door in Jax FL a few years ago.

They work well, however my concern would be how would they hold up in salt air?
 
Wilee
Sounds like you're on the right track, no pun intended.

David
The key would be to use the nylon rollers if possible but saltwater will eventually go after the bearings too. There are condos with Puget sound views around here that get some saltwater misting. They only can last so long, but 5-10 years isn't bad.
 
Hey Wile,
Could you post more pics on Flickr. I hve the same oat with the same problem and would like to follow your example. Check mine out at flickr.com/photos/sherminator2009 The floor should been done in about two (Cold as a well digger here) but after that project I plan to start on the sliding door.

Thanks in advance
 
sherman said:
Hey Wile,
Could you post more pics on Flickr. I hve the same oat with the same problem and would like to follow your example. Check mine out at flickr.com/photos/sherminator2009 The floor should been done in about two (Cold as a well digger here) but after that project I plan to start on the sliding door.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

Sherman,
Just post them here.
 
sherman said:
Hey Wile,
Could you post more pics on Flickr. I hve the same oat with the same problem and would like to follow your example. Check mine out at flickr.com/photos/sherminator2009 The floor should been done in about two (Cold as a well digger here) but after that project I plan to start on the sliding door.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

I really haven't done anything with it yet. All the pics I have are up there right now. As soon as I get back into it, I will take pics along with possibly a short instruction if I have the time.
 
I think I have most all of the parts, so I'm going to do a short list of the parts you'll need. I have had to make lots of calls and have been unable to find these listed anywhere else. Hope this isn't too long.
On the top of the door there is a roller on the very top that holds the door out, and a brass wheeled roller that holds it up off of the channel. The following picture may be had to understand, but just picture it being from the inside and upside down.
4279998515_efc5fb0c4d.jpg


The B-605 looks much different than in this pic. There is a spring loaded section that needs to be removed by drilling and removing the swivel pin. You will then need to match up the old one and drill a second hole. They need to be exact so the threads in the door match the hole location. You will be drilling from the opposite side where it is bent over instead of solid as it is in this view. Note the part is the B-605.
4280016963_ec425015de.jpg


These are the rollers on the bottom of the door. If you look at the earlier pics these were the ones that were totally locked up, and had work the nylon down. This was a pain to get because the proper 1/2 wide housing only comes with the steel wheel. I had to order the housing seperate from the wheel and axle. It's hard to tell, but the axle doesn't fit well in this housing, it will slide out the side if not loaded. The rep at Prime-Co tells me this is not a problem as the axle is contained in the frame. You will notice that on the right one you can see the shoulder isn't contained in the housing.
4280759094_2b03c16732.jpg


If you notice on post#20 there are slides that are contained under the plate that holds the door in place. This plate is what needs to be removed to allow the door to pull out. As you can see there are a number of these broken. This is a 3/8X3/8X3" acetal block. I ordered a 24" piece that I will cut down to the 3" size and drill and countersink.

Last, (I hope) There is a slick tape on the upper channel that the brass roller runs on. It was somewhat torn up just from years of use. There are many tapes at McMaster Carr. I got item# 7344A32. It's a 2" wide tape .012" thick.
I will try and remember to take pics when I reassemble everything. Once I got started pulling apart I didn't want to stop and run home to get the camera. Let me know if there are any questions. You can see more, and larger pics on my Flickr page.
 
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