Sliding door repair 340EC

[wileecoyote]

I've seen many posts on repairs for the sliding door, from replacing "trucks" or nylon slides, to suggesting removal of the helm. If I were to remove the door to "refurbish" it with new hardware and clean everything, how hard is it to remove the helm and make the repairs? I have yet to find a link or instructions on how to remove the helm. Also, has anyone here tried it?

 

[Nehalennia]

What year?

If you put your boat's info in your signature, it makes life easy for us trying to help

 

[wileecoyote]

Sorry about that. It's a 1989. I edited my signature but it hasn't come up yet, hopefully it will on this post. Thanks for all your help.

 

[fwebster]

This is a case where the specifics of the boat you are asking about is critical.

On the '89 Ec's the door is easy to remove. The header (probably a teak rt. angle piece) must come off, then the entire door assembly lifts out........a handfull of screws and you are done.

Be very careful with your door when it is removed. The door panel is no longer available.

 

[wileecoyote]

So, no need to remove the helm? I'm assuming that is because there is no aft cabin. That is great news. I really wanted to remove the whole door so I could clean and replace any broken hardware. I'm guessing I may have to fabricate some due to availability. Thanks everyone for your time and assistance. Always appreciated!:smt038

 

[wileecoyote]

Heres a pic of the door. It appears that the hardware is cocking the door on the back side behind the helm. I've seen many posts about having the remove the helm and I still want some to assure me, it's easy to remove, and I don't have to remove the helm. Any Sea Ray techs out there who have pics and have done this? I know it's small but this is where the main door closes to the pocket door slide at the bottom.

 

[wileecoyote]

Frank, I know you said simply remove the top screws and the door would come up and out. After looking closer, the ones from the top appear to screw through a small felt rub and inside the channel are screws that appear to hold it to the fiberglass dash. I removed the access panel under the wheel in the helm and when closed the door is still about 3" behind the helm. Has anyone removed the helm, and what does that entail? Is there and easier way? Heres a pic of the door, If you don't know what I'm talking about.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wileecoyotemoore/3021128028/sizes/l/

 

[wileecoyote]

Removed the door today finally after having the boat blocked. It wasn't as hard as I may have thought, although I found some rotten wood that will need to be replaced. You have to remove the channel "cap" that retains the plastic guides. I have yet to even begin researching the hardware since I didn't know what I would need. Looks as if the plastic wheels on the lower slide of the big door are rusted stuck. The metal around them rusted causing them to get stuck. I will be looking for replacement parts in the next week. Any help would be welcome.

 

[rondds]

Mark
You may find what you need here...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#caster-wheels/=4nx0ng

 

[bduncan1231]

If the hardware is anything like my 390EC you can modify sliding door hardware to work. ( A little filing is needed for clearance side to side on the roller) Just remove the hardware and take it to Lowes or Home Depot and get the closest match. I did mine about 2 years ago and its still working great (although she didnt get much use this year due to the 500 taking precedence). We are moving the 390 finally at the end of December to Panama City. She'll get some use then!

 

[oknoproblem]

He Mark,
So you didn't have to remove the helm huh? Did you take any photos during the process of the door removal? Have the same boat and my door is beginning to stick a little, hoping to go to school on you.:grin:

Thanks, Dave

 

[wileecoyote]

Mark
You may find what you need here...
http://www.mcmaster.com/#caster-wheels/=4nx0ng

I was planning on looking at MCm Carr as soon as I get them out and see what the make-up is. They are rusted stuck and I haven't removed the hardware from the door yet.

He Mark,
So you didn't have to remove the helm huh? Did you take any photos during the process of the door removal? Have the same boat and my door is beginning to stick a little, hoping to go to school on you.:grin:

Thanks, Dave

Oh, The helm absolutley has to come off! The cap on the top and bottom are held by screws behind the helm. There are 4 on the bottom and 3 on top under the helm. I will be taking pics next time I go down so you can have an idea. I also found a few rotten filler boards. One at the bottom and one under the sill. I know one thing, I took out about 50 teak plugs!:smt021

 

[oknoproblem]

Hang in there, your boat has undergone a tremendous transformation since you have owned it. This is just part of the continuing evolution. Looking forward to the results!
Dave

 

[rondds]

Mark
I truly admire your "stick-with-it-ness."

 

[wileecoyote]

OK Guys, In my haste to get everything apart and see what I needed to get I didn't take pics of the whole process. To be honest, I wasn't sure what the process was going to be. I now have thoroughly soaked the parts with heat valve and removed it so that I can get the dimensions. I looked at the McMaster Carr page, but I'm not sure what it may be used for. I'm thinking it may be a part for a sliding in-wall door. Looks to me to be too big for patio sliding door. Aren't there any construction people here? I' posting the pics which have the important measurements. It appears that the wheel is a bronze colored metal ball bearing inside roller with the exterior plastic wheel.

The pics are on my Flickr page if you want to look at the larger version.
Flickr Page

 

[Nehalennia]

Wilee
That looks very similar to Slide-co rollers commonly used on sliding doors. I'm a locksmith and recognized that one of these may work. I believe part # 132320 is the one on page 36.
http://www.slide-co.com/scatalog/SC_DCE.pdf

I hope that helps. I'll let you verify the dimensions. Let me know if you need help ordering.

 

[wileecoyote]

Thanks Todd, I was looking there too, but the PDF wasn't loading right. Here's the one I was planning on ordering to try.
Click Here

Looks very similar as both are made for Better-Bilt doors. I'm going to order one of these and see what it looks like.

There's no chance you have any of the Slide-Co ones is there? I've been taking measurements with a caliper, and all the ones on the drawings are fractional. Many are close, some seem far away. If I could get true data it would help. In my mind I think the CRL one will work, if not I will know why.
I'm just dreaming of opening the darn door with 2 fingers and not having to push the 2 together so they will latch!:smt043
This was #1 on the winter list, 16 more to go!!

 

[Nehalennia]

Thanks Todd, I was looking there too, but the PDF wasn't loading right. Here's the one I was planning on ordering to try.
Click Here

Looks very similar as both are made for Better-Bilt doors. I'm going to order one of these and see what it looks like.

There's no chance you have any of the Slide-Co ones is there? I've been taking measurements with a caliper, and all the ones on the drawings are fractional. Many are close, some seem far away. If I could get true data it would help. In my mind I think the CRL one will work, if not I will know why.
I'm just dreaming of opening the darn door with 2 fingers and not having to push the 2 together so they will latch!:smt043
This was #1 on the winter list, 16 more to go!!

CR Laurence has made look alike parts for many different manufacturers for years. Yes, I'm sure it's the same as the Slide-co part. Both are pretty cheap. We don't stock either.

Good luck.

 

[wileecoyote]

I have ordered the CRL D1871 and CRL B605. I believe the upper roller is the 605 with the adjustable portion removed and then held in with screws. You will see when I get it and show the pieces off the door. By the way, the pics above were good rollers from the pocket door. For your viewing pleasure I have attached one of the lower main door "rollers" At one time they were rollers I guess.

 

[wileecoyote]

Just another picture of the door. These are the guides along the top side of the door. You can see where the guide was cracked and was scraping from having to wiggle it to get it to slide. I'm not sure what the material is, Does anyone have any ides what material I could get that would be used for these guides? I will have to measure one that isn't tore up (if there is one) to see what size it is.