I used the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83 polish, then used the 1Z einszett Glanz sealant.
Polishing Before and After
- Thread starter Nehalennia
- Start date
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- wax
I used the Menzerna Super Intensive Polish PO83 polish, then used the 1Z einszett Glanz sealant.
Is the Einszett a wax or a polymer? I am not familiar with their product line up.
Let us know how this holds up for the rest of the season. In the meantime enjoy that shine. :thumbsup:
Dave
http://www.1z-usa.com/einszett_glanz_car_wax.html
http://www.detailersdomain.com/1zeinszett-glanzwax.aspx
It is a polymer with some carnauba, I was a huge fan of Rejex http://www.rejex.com/ for a long time, but the rejex does not give any "pop" that rewards you for all the hard work. I still use Rejex but only on the wheels of the garaged cars, and the daily driver. If I had a garage large enough to keep the boat in I would polish the boat, do a base layer of rejex, then a top coat of the 1Z glanz. I am sure I could get through a whole summer with that method.
I am still shocked by how well the Menzerna worked on gel coat.
Bel_Mar_Pointe
Member
Hey Crownline.....lookin' good! So that is not bottom paint on the first pic?
No, just the growth from april till this weekend. Notice in the first picture my 10 bottles of "The Works" toilet cleaner as my bottom cleaner :grin:
Jack380AC
Member
- Jan 28, 2008
- 878
- Boat Info
- 2000 380 Aft Cabin
- Engines
- Twin 454 Mag MPI Horizon MerCruiser
BlewByYou88
Member
Gave the ol' girl and end of the season rub down and waxing. Even got the G/F to give me a hand. I can't believe how well she shines. You guys, with this thread, have given me the perfect recipe for perfection!
My only question, with Compound, Polishing, and Waxing at the end of the season, will I need to repeat the process in the spring, or just give her a good washdown? (I'm talking about the boat...not the girl)
My only question, with Compound, Polishing, and Waxing at the end of the season, will I need to repeat the process in the spring, or just give her a good washdown? (I'm talking about the boat...not the girl)
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Gave the ol' girl and end of the season rub down and waxing. Even got the G/F to give me a hand. I can't believe how well she shines. You guys, with this thread, have given me the perfect recipe for perfection!
My only question, with Compound, Polishing, and Waxing at the end of the season, will I need to repeat the process in the spring, or just give her a good washdown? (I'm talking about the boat...not the girl)
Looking great. Can't wait until you get it up here next summer.
- Mar 25, 2008
- 5,524
- Boat Info
- 2006 Sea Ray 58 DB
- Engines
- MAN CRM V8-900s, Twin Disc Drives; Onan 21.5 Generator
Wax job looks great - and glad you clarified this:
"...or just give her a good washdown? (I'm talking about the boat...not the girl)..."
"...or just give her a good washdown? (I'm talking about the boat...not the girl)..."
What's this end of season nonsense? I see palm trees in the photo and an AZ location. You should be putting it back in the water for another 6 months of winter boating!:huh::grin:
BlewByYou88
Member
Contrary to Popular belief, it does freeze in PHX. and I have a lot of projects for the Winter. We don't normally go out in the Winter, and with the things that need to be done and the cost, I know I wont be going out for at least 5-7 months.:smt089
- Oct 4, 2006
- 2,335
- Boat Info
- 2003 280DA and 1995 Sea Ray 175
- Engines
- Twin 4.3l and 3.0l, all w/ AlphaI GenII drives
Man, everything in those photographs is gorgeous...the weather, the palm trees, the boat, the girlfriend. Nice!
Tom
Tonka Boater
Well-Known Member
I have some polishing questions to I'm reviving an old thread because I think there is a ton of useful information here...plus, spring is approaching and I bet others will be getting ready to polish up their vessels.
Over the winter I purchased a (gulp) 1997 Cobalt 200 BR. The boat is pretty close to mint and has spent the past 17 summers on a covered lift on a clean, freshwater lake in northern MN. It has a carbed 5.7 LX with 400 hours that looks as good as the day it was built and it's paired with a BIII outdrive.
Anyway.... the hull still shines but it could use some deep polishing above the rub rail to get it back to brand new looking. Plus the blue stripes could use a light wet sanding to really pop. Here's by restoration plan.... is this the right approach?
1. Mask the blue stripes and wet sand starting with 1500, wash then finish with 2000. Wash again.
2. Buff the whole boat (top to bottom) with the PC7424 using Meguiar's Marine One-Step Compound
3. After buffing I will finish it off with Star Bright Premium Marine Polish with PTEF
Thoughts? I know everyone has their preferred polish/wax but I have always had great results with Star Bright.
Over the winter I purchased a (gulp) 1997 Cobalt 200 BR. The boat is pretty close to mint and has spent the past 17 summers on a covered lift on a clean, freshwater lake in northern MN. It has a carbed 5.7 LX with 400 hours that looks as good as the day it was built and it's paired with a BIII outdrive.
Anyway.... the hull still shines but it could use some deep polishing above the rub rail to get it back to brand new looking. Plus the blue stripes could use a light wet sanding to really pop. Here's by restoration plan.... is this the right approach?
1. Mask the blue stripes and wet sand starting with 1500, wash then finish with 2000. Wash again.
2. Buff the whole boat (top to bottom) with the PC7424 using Meguiar's Marine One-Step Compound
3. After buffing I will finish it off with Star Bright Premium Marine Polish with PTEF
Thoughts? I know everyone has their preferred polish/wax but I have always had great results with Star Bright.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
I would try to use a 3 step approach on the hull before wetsanding. You'll definitely want a rotary buffer for the compounding. Colbalts have a very nice gelcoat, but you'll need to be careful as well.
Step 1. 3M Super Duty Compound on rotary buffer w/wool bonnet
Step 2. 3M Finesse it II on rotary buffer w/a separate wool bonnet
Step 3. Starbrite Polish on Porter Cable or other similar orbital (not a 10" auto parts store WEN type).
Step 1. 3M Super Duty Compound on rotary buffer w/wool bonnet
Step 2. 3M Finesse it II on rotary buffer w/a separate wool bonnet
Step 3. Starbrite Polish on Porter Cable or other similar orbital (not a 10" auto parts store WEN type).
Last edited:
douglee25
Well-Known Member
1. 1500 grit will not touch the gelcoat. You're going to need somewhere between 600-800 initially and work your way up. Keep the paper lubed with water and try to avoid using your fingers. Use a sponge sander if possible.
2. Follow up with a wool pad on a wheel with your choice of heavy compound. It will really start to do it's magic here and bring everything together. The Meguiars one step I've used and works really well.
3. Polish if you choose and finish with your favorite wax. I've used meguiars flagship and I've also used Buff Magic. Both work well.
Doug
peterkvs
Active Member
I've restored numerous boat from chalk back to better than new.
1) wet sand entire boat with 1000 grit and wrap the half sheets of paper around a rubber block. You can get this from any auto paint store. Make sure you only sand left and right and up and down. NO circular strokes. Use lots of water while sanding and keep boat rinsed off. When down was the entire boat with soap and water and rinse well. Let dry.
2) You will then need to compound the boat. I use a FLEX rotary buffer and a wool pad. My choice of compound is Wizards Turbo Cut. It out performs everything else I have ever tried. The Turbo Cut will easily take out the 1000 grit scratches and it is a progressive compound meaning that the compound breaks down and gets finer and finer until it is gone. This takes the gelcoat from sanded to ready for wax in one step. I recently did this to a 99 400 DA and it looked considerably better than a 2010 Sea Ray that was on the same dock.
3) I always only use 3M marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax and apply at least two coats. I do that by hand with a lot of terry towels rather than a orbital machine because I can better feel the finish by hand.
If you have not done this before I would recommend you choose and a 2'x2' area and perfect your process. When I was figuring out the ultimate process I literally spent weeks sanding the whole boat with 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and then buffing with a progression of 3M compounds with 3M foam pads. Then after two weeks of HARD labor an oldtimer comes by and says it looks pretty good, but could be better, he takes some 1000 grit, sands a one foots square in the middle of what I had just spent weeks polishing, took his turbo cut compound on his wool pad and in 15 seconds took the gel coat to a whole new level, maybe 5 new levels. It took me a couple hours with the aforementioned materials to make the spot around his spot look as good as his and then a day to redo the whole boat with amazing results. The only thing I tape off when I restore a finish is the bottom paint, because that can really make a mess. On rare occasions I will use 800 on tough spots like spider poo, then sand again with 1000.
Here is an example of what 1000 grit and Turbo Cut can do.
1) wet sand entire boat with 1000 grit and wrap the half sheets of paper around a rubber block. You can get this from any auto paint store. Make sure you only sand left and right and up and down. NO circular strokes. Use lots of water while sanding and keep boat rinsed off. When down was the entire boat with soap and water and rinse well. Let dry.
2) You will then need to compound the boat. I use a FLEX rotary buffer and a wool pad. My choice of compound is Wizards Turbo Cut. It out performs everything else I have ever tried. The Turbo Cut will easily take out the 1000 grit scratches and it is a progressive compound meaning that the compound breaks down and gets finer and finer until it is gone. This takes the gelcoat from sanded to ready for wax in one step. I recently did this to a 99 400 DA and it looked considerably better than a 2010 Sea Ray that was on the same dock.
3) I always only use 3M marine Ultra Performance Paste Wax and apply at least two coats. I do that by hand with a lot of terry towels rather than a orbital machine because I can better feel the finish by hand.
If you have not done this before I would recommend you choose and a 2'x2' area and perfect your process. When I was figuring out the ultimate process I literally spent weeks sanding the whole boat with 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and then buffing with a progression of 3M compounds with 3M foam pads. Then after two weeks of HARD labor an oldtimer comes by and says it looks pretty good, but could be better, he takes some 1000 grit, sands a one foots square in the middle of what I had just spent weeks polishing, took his turbo cut compound on his wool pad and in 15 seconds took the gel coat to a whole new level, maybe 5 new levels. It took me a couple hours with the aforementioned materials to make the spot around his spot look as good as his and then a day to redo the whole boat with amazing results. The only thing I tape off when I restore a finish is the bottom paint, because that can really make a mess. On rare occasions I will use 800 on tough spots like spider poo, then sand again with 1000.
Here is an example of what 1000 grit and Turbo Cut can do.
RollerCoastr
Well-Known Member
- Nov 15, 2007
- 3,884
- Boat Info
- 1997 400DA
340HP 7.4 Mercruiser Bluewaters
Garmin 741, 742, 8212, 24HD, Intellian I2
- Engines
- 1999 280BR
Twin 250HP Merc 350 Alpha Ones
That looks amazing. I haven't used Turbo Cut and I'm looking forward to seeing what it does. I was with you right up to "The only thing I tape off when I restore a finish is the bottom paint."
I'm a tape fanatic. I use bendable trim tape for sharp corners and 3M plastic tape when I need to do a lot of buffing. I go cheap with painters tape in regular areas. I do this because I can't stand to look at a boat with swirl marks all over the edges of the non-skid, yet actually buffing the non-skid seriously wears it down and reduces it's effectiveness.
I'm a tape fanatic. I use bendable trim tape for sharp corners and 3M plastic tape when I need to do a lot of buffing. I go cheap with painters tape in regular areas. I do this because I can't stand to look at a boat with swirl marks all over the edges of the non-skid, yet actually buffing the non-skid seriously wears it down and reduces it's effectiveness.
Tonka Boater
Well-Known Member
Wow.... great advice everyone. Peterkvs... that look amazing!
I have never wet sanded gelcoat but I've read almost everything here on CSR and watched a ton of Youtube videos. It doesn't look too hard provided you use a sponge block that can mould to the contour of the boat and test in small areas as suggested here.
The reason I was planning to mask the blue stripes is to avoid the blue color bleeding into the surrounding white gel. Is this a non-issue? I think the white can come back with compounding alone but, based on Peter's results, I will just do the whole boat with 1000 then compound with the Porter Cable followed by wax.
I have never wet sanded gelcoat but I've read almost everything here on CSR and watched a ton of Youtube videos. It doesn't look too hard provided you use a sponge block that can mould to the contour of the boat and test in small areas as suggested here.
The reason I was planning to mask the blue stripes is to avoid the blue color bleeding into the surrounding white gel. Is this a non-issue? I think the white can come back with compounding alone but, based on Peter's results, I will just do the whole boat with 1000 then compound with the Porter Cable followed by wax.
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
Why no circular sanding strokes? Is that so you won't inadvertently create a low spot?
RollerCoastr
Well-Known Member
- Nov 15, 2007
- 3,884
- Boat Info
- 1997 400DA
340HP 7.4 Mercruiser Bluewaters
Garmin 741, 742, 8212, 24HD, Intellian I2
- Engines
- 1999 280BR
Twin 250HP Merc 350 Alpha Ones
We need to talk you out of compounding with the 7424. It'll be 3 weeks before all the blood you'll shake out of your hands returns, and the results won't be nearly as good as using a simple vibration-free rotary.
