Polishing Before and After

Presta also makes lighter cutting compounds. The SuperCut will remove 600 grit swirls, the GelCoat compound removes 800, and the Ultra Cutting Crème 1200. I used SuperCut to take care of the initial nasty stuff but I now get by with just the Gelcoat and Cutting Crème.
 
Greetings Todd!
This is an awesome post, thanks to you, John and Jeremy - I've read through it twice and now ordering my tools & supplies for my first "do it yourself" season. What were the results of your comparison side by side of #49 and #67? I may try to get by with just one of them this time.

Grant
 
John,
I notice on http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html they recommend the 5" Dual Action 5 Inch HD Hook & Loop Backing Plate to use with the 6.5" Lake Country pads, rather than the 6" Hook & Loop Plate that fits the PC wool bonnet.
What accessories/dimensions have you had the best experience with?

thanks,
Grant
 
I've read this thread.....twice now, and this is what I'm going to try. Not really any oxidation, but not the pop I want either. Bought the boat in AZ, and moved it to CO.

1. Going to do the Meguiars #67 first. I saw the directions stated either rotary or hand application. I'm assuming the rotatry will be faster and do a much better job. I've not used one, so this will be my first. From reading on here and watching vids.....low rpm's in a L to R then up and down until there's a light haze, then wipe clean with microfiber towel. I want to use this because of the oils and such it puts back into the gel.

2. Then Meguiars Flagship Marine wax. This says apply by hand, then wipe off - sounds like what we do with cars?

3. Do you tape off the striping, or go right over it with both the #67 and rotary and the hand applied Flagship wax?

My biggest concern is I don't want swirl marks. If I understand correctly, using the rotary with a wool bonnet and the #67, just let the bonnet do the work at low rpms, putting no additional pressure on it and keep it always moving.....correct?

I have a 32 oz for both the #67 and the Flagship wax.....will that do a 310 or will I need more of each?

Please critique my process above. First time doing this and I don't want to screw it up.

Thanks
 
Hi Grant, I hope you and Kathy are great!

Fly'N Fam
I had great success with the 7" wool bonnet for the compounding process. If you're starting with the #67, then yes use a rotary (I have the Makita 9227C). Make sure you dedicate a pad for each different product. Use a polish before the wax if you're going with the Meguiars Flagship Marine wax. Many here like Pro Polish. I like the Starbrite Polish and it has a protectant in it so I don't follow with a wax. You won't have to tape off your stripes, just be easy around them. I use a Porter Cable 7424 orbital with the 6" pads. See http://www.premiumboatcare.com/vcpad.html for pads and which ones work on each product type. Also dedicate a pad for each product and order some terry or microfiber bonnets to go over a clean foam pad for product removal.

Good luck.
 
I decided to try Presta Ultra Cutting Creme after reading many favorable reviews. Last year I used Starbrite and had good results. My hull is crimson, 2006 Sundancer, with very slight oxidation on hull. I washed the hull and then decided to try a small six inch area by hand before using the buffer. I put a very small amount of the Presta on the cloth and rubbed the area lightly. I was shocked to see that crimson was now on the cloth! Not sure if that is normal, but I got spooked. I am looking for advice before I go any further. The several reviews on Presta I had read on CSR were all very positive. Looking for your input. Thanks.
 
I decided to try Presta Ultra Cutting Creme after reading many favorable reviews. Last year I used Starbrite and had good results. My hull is crimson, 2006 Sundancer, with very slight oxidation on hull. I washed the hull and then decided to try a small six inch area by hand before using the buffer. I put a very small amount of the Presta on the cloth and rubbed the area lightly. I was shocked to see that crimson was now on the cloth! Not sure if that is normal, but I got spooked. I am looking for advice before I go any further. The several reviews on Presta I had read on CSR were all very positive. Looking for your input. Thanks.
That is normal as you are cutting into the gel coat a bit. Finish and area with the cutting crime then polish (easiest is Starbrite) then follow with a UV wax and see how it looks.
 
Ken - thanks for your response.

Frank
 
Yes, you'll always get a little color working on the colored hulls when compounding and even a little working the polish.
 
Nehalennia - Thanks. Good to know the effect is normal, and not a problem with the process.
 
Started the process today, first doing one pass with the Meguiars #67 and once finished with that, I'll follow up with a layer of Meguiars Flagship. The pic is just one pass with 67.

Pretty darn impressed with the #67. Hull had light chalk, and you could see where the previous owner had tried to clean things up with wax or something else. Some discoloration in the appearance of the white hull. Not any more where I've worked the 67. Gone from light chalk and discoloration to a uniform shine, with just one application. Using a 7" drill master rotary, for the first time ever, and am very happy with things so far.

A big thanks to everyone in this thread. An incredible amount of information here, and between this and some youtube videos on how to use a rotary on fiberglass, it gave me the nerve to give it a shot. I'm really glad for it.

And for the record, this is work. Hopefully will only need to do this once per season. Can't wait to finish the 67 and then go over it with the Flagship wax.

Boat1appMequiars67_zpsa4aa0f59.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nehalennia - Thanks. Good to know the effect is normal, and not a problem with the process.

You're welcome and you can call me Todd :)


Started the process today, first doing one pass with the Meguiars #67 and once finished with that, I'll follow up with a layer of Meguiars Flagship. The pic is just one pass with 67.

Pretty darn impressed with the #67. Hull had light chalk, and you could see where the previous owner had tried to clean things up with wax or something else. Some discoloration in the appearance of the white hull. Not any more where I've worked the 67. Gone from light chalk and discoloration to a uniform shine, with just one application. Using a 7" drill master rotary, for the first time ever, and am very happy with things so far.

A big thanks to everyone in this thread. An incredible amount of information here, and between this and some youtube videos on how to use a rotary on fiberglass, it gave me the nerve to give it a shot. I'm really glad for it.

And for the record, this is work. Hopefully will only need to do this once per season. Can't wait to finish the 67 and then go over it with the Flagship wax.

Boat1appMequiars67_zpsa4aa0f59.jpg

Yes it is work, but very satisfying, no?
 
I am fed up with the products I was using so I am switching over to the meguiars #67 followed by the flagship. I picked up a bottle of the #67 today and noticed it said do not let it dry on to the fiberglass. In the past I have let the wax turn to a dust. If this is the case for the #67 how long do you typically let it sit before you wipe it off or are most of you letting it dry to a dust before wiping it off to receive this results?
 
I am fed up with the products I was using so I am switching over to the meguiars #67 followed by the flagship. I picked up a bottle of the #67 today and noticed it said do not let it dry on to the fiberglass. In the past I have let the wax turn to a dust. If this is the case for the #67 how long do you typically let it sit before you wipe it off or are most of you letting it dry to a dust before wiping it off to receive this results?

Remove it when you're done with a section. Don't let your sections get too big and this way your results will be optimal. My new favorite intermediate compound is 3M Finesse it II, in place of #67 (although it is still very good).
 
Update on my processes:

Meguiar's #67 polish/compound, rotary buffer, wool pad
Meguiar's Flagship premium wax, random orbital, foam pad

I pulled the boat for the first time in almost 2 years. I used the same process on the sides above and below the rub rail from bow to stern, including around transom.... The process was amazingly easy (for almost 50 feet of boat). What I have noticed is that after using this process 3 times previously, the finish on the boat is very smooth and retains very little dirt and has zero oxidation. These are areas that are not hit very hard by the sun, except the stbd stern which takes a beating. It was also easy to treat this time.

This is not an easy job by any means, but it was merely a matter of going through the motions this time as compared to actually having to work at it and go back and forth on previous occasions - this after almost 2 years with nothing but fresh water rinses and a very occasional brushing with boat soap.
 
John, How did you decide on the compound #67 rather than a less abrasive such as #49 or #44? I am getting ready to do mine for the first time in a year and plan to start with #44, then #49 if needed. I am trying to get where I never need to compound. Just clean and then wax.

I also use the Flagship Premium wax. I think the Collinite lasts a bit longer but Flagship is easier to apply and is good enough for me.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,943
Messages
1,422,707
Members
60,927
Latest member
Jaguar65
Back
Top