Polishing Before and After

I was re-reading this thread starting from page 1, and there was an extensive discussion about this. Apparently, the higher the number, the more aggressive the compound. Why is it they mix 67 with polish? Doesn't make sense to me. I go into extreme detail about the repair of a badly damaged blue-hull 340. What I found back then was that #49 seemed to finish just as aggressively as it started whereas the 67 finished much softer.

I don't know if I am correct or not, all I know is that I have stayed with the #67 followed by Flagship Premium Wax for 8 years now and that is all I ever do. My results have been fantastic and have been getting better over time due to having a finer, and finer finish. Both of my big boats were used/leftover new. I think I would do the same with a brand new boat off of the showroom.
 
I found the #67 had a diminishing compound, yielding a softer shinier finish. It's been great for touch up areas. My new favorite for this step though is 3M's Finnesse it II. #67 is still in my detail box though and is a great product.
 
Hello, Todd! I use a couple of big bottles of #67 a year. Just an hour ago, I used it to quickly remove the black marks on the transom below the back curtain (by hand) and then went back over with the Flagship Premium Wax to restore the protection - purely a cosmetic finish for cruising in a couple of days. Very quick.
 
I can not keep my transom looking good. I can get it to shine like no ones business using 3m Color Restorer followed with Flagship wax. In two to three WEEKs it has that chalk look to it again. The only way I can get it to shine again at that point is to start again with 3m Color Restorer etc. An added note is the boat is a leftover I purchased so I have no idea how the dealer took care of it before I got it last year. What am I doing wrong?
 
PPG DX440 wax and grease remover works best and not as harsh as acetone.you do have to wipe it down twice after putting it on though,we use a sprayer for application.
 
If the wax is not removed before polishing am I just polishing the wax? I thought that by using the color restorer it would cut thru the wax and then let the buffer work on the gel coat. I will try washing with the dishsoap this coming weekend.
 
Along another line of thought, you have a beautiful, dark hull on a boat with mid-2000's diesels in a salt environment. You are starting off with a challenge. While my boat was out last week, we were discussing the 55 Sundancer next to mine. It is a black hull boat and has been out for about 2 months (off and on?). The waxing crew has literally detailed the sides of the boat 3 times. It keeps getting that white-ish oxidized look on the sides. There are plenty of experts running around the yard. They just say that that is how it goes with a dark hulled boat.

I have a buddy who had a Northeastern style trawler with a dark hull - also a beautiful boat. He had it washed weekly and instructed the crew to squeegee the sides dry after washing it. I don't know if that is the solution, but his boat always looked nice.

Another thought - what about rinsing it with filtered water. I could be the hardness in the water that is leaving deposits on the boat.
 
Our boat neighbors have a 52 Sedan Bridge with a dark blue hull. They use filtered (mini water softener on the dock) when washing the boat and they never have any water spots on the hull and it always looks great. They only have it buffed and waxed at the beginning of the season. The water softener is designed for boats and RVs and they recharge it once during the season.
 
Hello, Todd! I use a couple of big bottles of #67 a year. Just an hour ago, I used it to quickly remove the black marks on the transom below the back curtain (by hand) and then went back over with the Flagship Premium Wax to restore the protection - purely a cosmetic finish for cruising in a couple of days. Very quick.

Hey John! Congrats on the new to you 44.


If the wax is not removed before polishing am I just polishing the wax? I thought that by using the color restorer it would cut thru the wax and then let the buffer work on the gel coat. I will try washing with the dishsoap this coming weekend.

Try washing with Simple Green first. It will remove the wax. Then use 3M Super Duty Compound, followed by #67 or 3M Finesse It II. After that I know others, like John, like Flagship wax or other waxes. I like Starbrite polish with PTEF. It's a poly sealer instead of wax and I think it lasts longer and provide another level of shine. I've used that for 20 years and really like it over a wax. It still protects as well.
 
Todd,

I have had the 44 for almost 4 years. I've been too busy to keep up here, but am starting to show up here more. BTW, Flagship is a polymer, not a wax. The name says wax, though.
 
Hampton I am afraid you might be right. We new the blue hull might be a challenge to keep pretty. I am going to try stripping the wax as has been suggested one more time. At that point I will not worry about it. I clean and wax one hour every time we go to the coast. One hour is my limit which always results in one section looking great. If I get any flax that days good section will be pointed to.
 
The guy that detailed my boat last year used malco products compound and malco banana cream wax,the boat was pulled yesterday and still looks almost as good as when he finished it in march.I will be ordering some for my winter duty but i will use a less aggressive compound from the same company.The wax goes on easy and towels off easy also.
 
So I struggle with the cleaning step. I use a Makita rotary with wool pad and I seem to always have a blotchy result. Mostly a deep shine but noticeable interleaving of not so deep shine. I've tried Presta Supercut, Buff Magic, Mequiars #49 and #44. Same result with all of them. Multiple passes help but still not a consistent deep/wet look. Am I using too much, too little, too fast rpm, too slow rpm, moving the buffer too fast, not pressing hard enough? Any pointers?

Update: I now remember I watched the guys at Prince William Marina compound a boat a few years ago. One guy had a brush and a big tub of compound and literally painted the hull with it. Another guy followed behind him with the rotary. So, I don't think I am getting enough cleaner on the hull. Going to try painting a 2x2 square first then running the rotary over it.
 
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So I struggle with the cleaning step. I use a Makita rotary with wool pad and I seem to always have a blotchy result. Mostly a deep shine but noticeable interleaving of not so deep shine. I've tried Presta Supercut, Buff Magic, Mequiars #49 and #44. Same result with all of them. Multiple passes help but still not a consistent deep/wet look. Am I using too much, too little, too fast rpm, too slow rpm, moving the buffer too fast, not pressing hard enough? Any pointers?

Update: I now remember I watched the guys at Prince William Marina compound a boat a few years ago. One guy had a brush and a big tub of compound and literally painted the hull with it. Another guy followed behind him with the rotary. So, I don't think I am getting enough cleaner on the hull. Going to try painting a 2x2 square first then running the rotary over it.

Try a rotary with a wool bonnet and Maguar's #67. I really don't think you can beat it. Then, apply your favorite wax/polymer.
 
Try a rotary with a wool bonnet and Maguar's #67. I really don't think you can beat it. Then, apply your favorite wax/polymer.

Thanks John. I will try the #67 on the port side. Finished up the starboard side today with #49. I figured out a more structured application of cleaner and movement of the rotary that ensured I always had cleaner working into the gelcoat.
 
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I'm guessing the gelcoat is either still dirty or oxidized. You will get the kind of results you described if in fact the gelocat is like that.

Try using acetone on a 2'x2' area and clean it really well. Then try buffing it out and see what kind of results you get.

I had to do this to a customer's boat once to obtain good results.
 
Thanks John. I will try the #67 on the port side. Finished up the starboard side today with #49. I figured out a more structured application of cleaner and movement of the rotary that ensured I always had cleaner working into the gelcoat.

Any remove with a clean microfiber bonnet. #67 is great as John stated, but I'm also a huge new fan to 3M Finnesse it II. Both yield a great shine. I like the poly sealers too. I use Starbrite Polish w/PTEF.
 
They pulled the boat to tighten the props correctly. It's been one month, 200 miles, and 15 hours of cruising:







2 props, 2 / 4 lights, 1 camera



3, no 4, no 5 of my favorite toys.

 
Using a dewalt buffer and presta cutting creme before and after. Other shots after hand-applying collinite 885. Roughly 10 hours of work including washing and taping off. Will do topsides once in water as shoulders are killing me.

Sorry for the lil pics. Need to upload to photo account


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 

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