OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

[fwebster]

SeaNile,

First, you cannot compare A/C water flow with other boats unless they are Sea Ray 450DA with the same cabin layout as yours. Pumps could be different, their cooling lines may be clean, the plumbing layout is likely different, etc. ....just too many variables to list.

Your boat should have a March pump on it and they are generally low pressure high volume pumps. You should have constant steady water flow from both thru hulls, but the 450 isn't going to and shouldn't look like a " hose with a nozzle on it."

If you doubt the flow or pressure then the first place to start is by cleaning the cooling lines with phosphoric (Never muriatic!) acid unless the system is completely blocked. I've written the procedure up and posted it on CSR several times but if you can't find it, I'll do it again after the weekend.

 

[tdheck]

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Order Confirmation
Submitted 4/16/2021 11:08 AM
Reference # WEB-135488
Order Status In Review
Payment Status Charged
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Payment Credit Card
Customer #
Customer Email markdflaten@gmail.com
Billing Address
Captain Mark D Flaten
Attn: Captain Mark D Flaten
1301 SW 360th st
Federal Way, WA 98023
(206) 200-0790
Shipping Address
Captain Mark D Flaten
Attn: Captain Mark D Flaten
1301 SW 360th st
Federal Way, WA 98023
(206) 200-0790
Item Quantity Price Total

Peel-N-Stick Medium "V" Profile - per ft
Part #: 70-1437-99-WT
Description: High-quality EPDM sponge rubber weatherstrip. This seal features the easy to install 3M bonded Peel-N-Stick adhesive backing for durability. Available by the foot and in 10ft lengths.
1 $4.39 $4.39

Peel-N-Stick Medium "V" Profile - 10ft
Part #: 83-0137-73
Description: High-quality EPDM sponge rubber weatherstrip. This seal features the easy to install 3M bonded Peel-N-Stick adhesive backing for durability. Available by the foot and in 10ft lengths.
1 $41.69 $41.69
Subtotal: $46.08
Shipping: $9.99
Tax: $5.67
Total: $61.74

Thank you!! This website will prove to be useful for a number of things I'm looking to replace.

 

[SeaNile]

SeaNile,

First, you cannot compare A/C water flow with other boats unless they are Sea Ray 450DA with the same cabin layout as yours. Pumps could be different, their cooling lines may be clean, the plumbing layout is likely different, etc. ....just too many variables to list.

Your boat should have a March pump on it and they are generally low pressure high volume pumps. You should have constant steady water flow from both thru hulls, but the 450 isn't going to and shouldn't look like a " hose with a nozzle on it."

If you doubt the flow or pressure then the first place to start is by cleaning the cooling lines with phosphoric (Never muriatic!) acid unless the system is completely blocked. I've written the procedure up and posted it on CSR several times but if you can't find it, I'll do it again after the weekend.

Thanks Frank. That sums it up perfectly, it looks like a low pressure high volume of water exiting the boat. This is what rainy holiday weekend will do to you. It'll make you look and think about everything on the boat while you cant use it!

 

[Tantalus]

Does anyone know where to obtain a rub rail end cap for the 450? Recently lost one and need to replace. Have see a few post here on CSR but mostly are for the shorter version, the 450 has the longer one, are they still available?

 

[fwebster]

Flounder Pounder Marine Surplus https://www.fpmarine.com
or
TACO Marine https://tacomarine.com/sea-ray-rub-rail


Both companies have excellent tech services folks so don't be afraid to ask, and on a 25 year old boat, you will probably need to ask for help matching the one you did not lose.


Frank

 

[Tantalus]

Thanks Frank, have reached out to both of them.

 

[tdheck]

Hi all,
Hoping you might be able to help me out here. I have a 1996 450DA. I'm assuming based on their condition that the wiper arms have never been replaced. However, I can not for the life of me figure out how to remove the old arms. There are two holes where set screws are supposed to go but they are empty. I can't find any release under the arms. I've included a few pics. Does anyone know how to remove these? Using this site I was able to find the replacements. But they don't do much good if I can't get the old ones off.

Thanks for the help.

Hey all, I'm going to tee this one up again just in case someone here is familiar with it. I originally posted it Friday. Pictures are on the original post. Thanks again in advance if anyone knows what to do here.

 

[tdheck]

Hi all,
Hoping you might be able to help me out here. I have a 1996 450DA. I'm assuming based on their condition that the wiper arms have never been replaced. However, I can not for the life of me figure out how to remove the old arms. There are two holes where set screws are supposed to go but they are empty. I can't find any release under the arms. I've included a few pics. Does anyone know how to remove these? Using this site I was able to find the replacements. But they don't do much good if I can't get the old ones off.

Thanks for the help.

Hey all, I'm going to tee this one up again just in case someone here is familiar with it. I originally posted it Friday. Pictures are on the original post. Thanks again in advance if anyone knows what to do here.

 

[Shaps]

Hi all,
Hoping you might be able to help me out here. I have a 1996 450DA. I'm assuming based on their condition that the wiper arms have never been replaced. However, I can not for the life of me figure out how to remove the old arms. There are two holes where set screws are supposed to go but they are empty. I can't find any release under the arms. I've included a few pics. Does anyone know how to remove these? Using this site I was able to find the replacements. But they don't do much good if I can't get the old ones off.

Thanks for the help.

That end piece should tilt up exposing a nut.

 

[The Bill Collector]

A new one for me... Yesterday on the way back to our home marina, I lost all power to my B&G equipment @ the helm(except radio). We slammed pretty good on a larger wave, but I'm not exactly sure of the moment of the power loss. Does anybody have a list I can go down to check for a possible cause ?

 

[kvduff]

Hey all, I'm going to tee this one up again just in case someone here is familiar with it. I originally posted it Friday. Pictures are on the original post. Thanks again in advance if anyone knows what to do here.

If the set screws have been removed, I wonder if they just pry off? I’m following this , I’m going to have mine powder coated but just haven’t gotten around to it just yet

 

[fwebster]

A new one for me... Yesterday on the way back to our home marina, I lost all power to my B&G equipment @ the helm(except radio). We slammed pretty good on a larger wave, but I'm not exactly sure of the moment of the power loss. Does anybody have a list I can go down to check for a possible cause ?

Mark,

The B&G equipment is an English design. Each black box has its own fuse and fuse holder as well as its own power source and ground. The Brooks and Gatehouse installers that rigged the B&G electronics usually spliced in a female quick release terminal on a hot lead......also look for a y-shaped crimp terminal that allows 2 crimp terminals top be connected to the available 12VDC terminal. Secondarily, the B&G system is a proprietary network and sometimes you must have the GPS and AP both energized to use the AP or navigate to a way point in the GPS memory. Also, on my 450DA I had 2 Furuno plotters interfaced to the AP and both were wired with a cheap glass fuse holder connected via quick release type crimp on terminals. Several times I had these crimp on terminals fall off the 12VDC lug they were attached tom in heavy seas.

I ended up up rewiring the electronics to use a screw type y or spade terminal connector instead of the quick release type. That was a bunch of work but it did solve. the problem for me.

 

[The Bill Collector]

Mark,

The B&G equipment is an English design. Each black box has its own fuse and fuse holder as well as its own power source and ground. The Brooks and Gatehouse installers that rigged the B&G electronics usually spliced in a female quick release terminal on a hot lead......also look for a y-shaped crimp terminal that allows 2 crimp terminals top be connected to the available 12VDC terminal. Secondarily, the B&G system is a proprietary network and sometimes you must have the GPS and AP both energized to use the AP or navigate to a way point in the GPS memory. Also, on my 450DA I had 2 Furuno plotters interfaced to the AP and both were wired with a cheap glass fuse holder connected via quick release type crimp on terminals. Several times I had these crimp on terminals fall off the 12VDC lug they were attached tom in heavy seas.

I ended up up rewiring the electronics to use a screw type y or spade terminal connector instead of the quick release type. That was a bunch of work but it did solve. the problem for me.

Thank you Frank, exactly what I was looking for...

 

[tdheck]

That end piece should tilt up exposing a nut.

I have read that elsewhere as well. The end piece is fixed and does not tilt up. The new wiper replacement has a similar design to what you are mentioning in which there is a cover over the part that connects to the motor exposing the set screws.

 

[tdheck]

If the set screws have been removed, I wonder if they just pry off? I’m following this , I’m going to have mine powder coated but just haven’t gotten around to it just yet

I'm going to put some PB Blaster on it this weekend and see if I can pry it off. I've have already tried to unsuccessfully pry it off. I'll let you know if it works. I did see one post online that someone used a dremel tool to cut it off. May be my next shot.

 

[The Bill Collector]

Mark,

The B&G equipment is an English design. Each black box has its own fuse and fuse holder as well as its own power source and ground. The Brooks and Gatehouse installers that rigged the B&G electronics usually spliced in a female quick release terminal on a hot lead......also look for a y-shaped crimp terminal that allows 2 crimp terminals top be connected to the available 12VDC terminal. Secondarily, the B&G system is a proprietary network and sometimes you must have the GPS and AP both energized to use the AP or navigate to a way point in the GPS memory. Also, on my 450DA I had 2 Furuno plotters interfaced to the AP and both were wired with a cheap glass fuse holder connected via quick release type crimp on terminals. Several times I had these crimp on terminals fall off the 12VDC lug they were attached tom in heavy seas.

I ended up up rewiring the electronics to use a screw type y or spade terminal connector instead of the quick release type. That was a bunch of work but it did solve. the problem for me.

I got lucky it turned out to be a cable between two of the B&G heads became disconnected. Reconnected tightened and wrapped with electrical tape so it doesn't happen again.

 

[fwebster]

I had several of those B&G gotcha's ovum 25 year B&G ownership. I didn't like running them down but all in all B&G is very good gear....a bit slower than todays networking capability, but it works very well if you can prevent the labeling from disconnecting itself.

And this is a lesson for B&G owners ..........there is a proprietary network system between the various building blocks on the B&G network. If you disconnect a cable in that system, the building blocks stop talking to each other and the B&G network system fails.

Glad you got it up and working.

 

[The Bill Collector]

I had several of those B&G gotcha's ovum 25 year B&G ownership. I didn't like running them down but all in all B&G is very good gear....a bit slower than todays networking capability, but it works very well if you can prevent the labeling from disconnecting itself.

And this is a lesson for B&G owners ..........there is a proprietary network system between the various building blocks on the B&G network. If you disconnect a cable in that system, the building blocks stop talking to each other and the B&G network system fails.

Glad you got it up and working.

Thanks again Frank.... I'm glad it was an easy fix.

 

[Saverio]

Here’s a picture of the lights fixtures that I replaced with leds scroll back a couple of posts for the link.

 

[Saverio]

Can anyone offer assistance with these two issues.
The po lost the door handle for the master head. It fell of and he couldn’t figure out how to install it.
Also my water tank level lights up all the levels. Any idea where the float switch is??
Thanks.