Official 390 E.C. Thread

Thanks for the help everyone. I was planing on removing it and laying in the port seat. I won't be starting that project till bout June. I rolled the motors over Friday. And plan on tuning them in the next few weeks.
 
Just FYI. At some point, probably at the end of the season ill be bending some new plexiglass for my door. If anyone is interested in doing theirs that would be the time since ill already have the pattern. I should be able to get the rollers too. Just let me know if there is any interest. I'm doing the side (forward plastic cabin) windows next week. I'll duplicate the patterns for future use too.
 
Good to know
i know I have to redo my side window. Mine are leaking right at the bunk bed and partion window. The fabric is soaked. The PO was very genarish with silicon The guy applied it like my daughter putting frosting on a cake. And it still leaks.


Saverio
 
I removed my entire window frame from both sides last year to correct similar problems. You will probably find that it is leaking where the small plexi section is located. They sit into a top and bottom channel in the window frames, but butt up against adjacent window frames and this is where the leaking originates. I crafted new "U" channel pieces for the ends of the small plexi pieces & JB Welded these new aluminum pieces in to take care of this. Problem solved. My plexi widow pieces (3) on both sides were showing their age, so I had new ones made up for me and I replaced them while I had the window frames out. I bought new window frame gasket material from Taylor and replaced them everywhere.
 
Ken

I was looking at he windows how do they come out? do u have to remove the weather striping outside to expose the screws? I know I can figure it out once I start investigating a little more. think mine are leaking at the same place where the two windows butt up against each other.

Saverio
 
Remove the screw cap molding to expose the dozens of screws. Carefully remove the window frames.They are in 2 sections and are about 14' long in total. There will be lots of scraping involved as Sea Ray did not spare the silicone back in the day. This is not a 5 minute job, but it is well worth it in the end when the water leaking is stopped.

~Ken
 
Hi Team - now that summer is around the corner I'm wiring in a new stereo system. Thought I'd get some suggestions from the experts. I've put a BlueTooth head unit to the left of the steering wheel as it's easy to access power and ground from the buss bars behind there. I'm thinking of installing Amps under the captains seat where there is some un-used storage space from the fiberglass seat molding. Then running speaker wire to a set of Klipsch AW-650 outdoor speakers mounted to the radar arch. I know it's not a flush mount set up, but I'm looking for something to be more directional for projecting music to the bow for sun tanners, and to swim deck/rafts. May use the KHO-7's are they're a bit smaller. In addition still looking for Sub woofer ideas. nothing crazy but a bit of low end would be nice. Any suggestions on where to mount one? Even with a 14ft beam it seems we're short on space.

Questions are this - I'm about to make the wire runs this weekend. Anyone have different suggestions that have worked well for them? Perhaps different locations for amps that are easier to hide wires to? Looking at the price of 0 gauge wire, I'd like to limit the amount that I use, but mounting anything electrical in the bilge does not seem like a good idea. So I'm guessing I have to make a run from the batteries up top somewhere. So any other locations that you guys have done would be appreciated. I tried to search the forum but it's tough to pick out 390 specific set ups. Thank you
 
that was on my list to upgrade the stereo and was considering adding an amp. how much watts are you thinking that you need zero gauge wire? i was thinking of installing the amp in the cabin somewhere. where the battery chargers is or by the a/c unit or adjacent to stairs. I thought it it would be better protected from the elements. Its just my 2cents lol

where ever you run wires. buy a roll of twine and tape it and use it as a dragger for the future.

how is the weather down their we just hit 60's this week
 
My amps are installed under the alcohol counter where the sliding doors are. Not much of a space to do anything else with. It does make a good spot for the amps.
 
I have all four of my amps mounted in the cabinetry above and behind the couch in the salon. I have bazooka tubbies for my radar arch speakers, they each have a front and rear facing speakers so it projects the sound to the bow and to the swim platform. under the drivers seat is a clever idea but it would be a ***** to get in there to make any adjustments. if you run the 2 gauge wire from the batteries to the cabinet where I have my amps its really not that much, because you can bring it through the firewall under the steps and bring it through the couch and cheat a little, that way you don't have to make that full run, it will save you a few feet. subwoofer wise I have 2 jl audio 10" subs mounted in the bench seat, I think that is the perfect spot for them. I also have jl audio m880's mounted under the cockpit steps on both sides of the boat, so If you didn't want to put the subs in the bench you could put them there. my radio is mounted in the salon to the right of the breaker panel, in the soffit, with Bluetooth and the wired and wireless remotes they offer I don't think its worth putting it in the helm, just my 2 cents.
 
I don't know how much amp you want. But I modified the access panel above the fridge. Put a hinge on it and mounted a kicker 5 channel amp. Works great easy to wire and easy access. I can grab a picture if you're interested.
 
Hi Guys - great suggestions. I was thinking of using 0 gauge to make the run to reduce resistance, then split it to 4/8 gauge into the amps. I don't want a ton of wattage, just looking to get an upgrade from my 2 pioneer 5inch rounds powered from the deck in the saloon. It gets grainy when you turn it up. likely from 30 year old wiring.

I like the idea of snaking power though the fire wall near the steps. Is it a pain in the a## to get all the silicone out? What kind do I use to fill it back in when I'm done? Also I like the idea of adding an amp above the fridge. I thought of that and using the buss bar that is there to tap into power and ground. I just didn't know if it was enough to power it as it didn't look like a low gauge wire powering all those accessories.

I like the idea of keeping the amps in the cabin, you don't find a loss in audio quality by making 20-30ft runs with speaker with after the amp? Did you snake it into the radar arch to power your tube speakers?

Thanks for the suggestions.
 
skillz48047 said:
subwoofer wise I have 2 jl audio 10" subs mounted in the bench seat, I think that is the perfect spot for them. I also have jl audio m880's mounted under the cockpit steps on both sides of the boat, so If you didn't want to put the subs in the bench you could put them there.
Click to expand...

My 3 person bench seat comes in and out depending on my use of the boat. I prefer a few patio rocker style chairs when I'm lounging, and put the bench seat in when I have lots of people. I likw the idea of putting some 8 inch subs under the cockpit steps. I will measure them out and see if I can get 10 inch in there.
 
Has anyone repaired the fiberglass mufflers on the gas engine 39 express's. I have mine off and I'm thinking of using West Epoxy System to repair them. Unless there's a better way to fix them.
 
Just thought you'd like a picture of the amp above the fridge

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i repaired my muffler with vinyl ester resin and mat. I'm sure the epoxy will work. I used the fiber glass since its what they seemed to use in the factory. Also fiberglass is used in keeping exhaust cool on hot rod headers etc. Without resin of course.
 
No signal loss via speaker wire i used 10ga wire though.......
little bit of a PITA to snake the arch but not a big deal
bus bars do NOT have enough power for a amp
definitley need to run wires to the batteries
silicone comes out easy enough just replace it with GE silicone I from home depot
easy!
 
Love the piano hinge on the access panel.
for safety you should always fuse the power feed about ten inches after it leaves the battery. In case in get pinched by fridge or something it won't go on fire.
 
Thanks for the Share Busterman. I Like that spot...How did you make the power runs to the battery? I picked up 15 ft of 4gauge power and ground with a 50A fuse to install near the batteries (100 dollars for those supplies, glad I didn't get 0 gague). I was planning on mounting near the AC and Inverter under the sofa. however that would require getting my RCA cable there too from my deck which is mounted near the steering wheel.
 
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