Official 380 Thread

Are you able to get the element out without pulling the heater out of the boat? Or is the whole thing sitting on the dock?
 
In a word, no. Since the element is situated at the bottom of the tank, I couldn't even completely remove the electrical cover because the bottom is secured near the bottom of the tank. Next, the tank sits in a recessed area about 3 inches deep, and is screwed down. The next Sea Ray design failsafe to make sure you have to remove it completely is the bracket that attaches it to the floor is bent at a 90 degree angle, passes through the cover of the heater, and bolts to the element. So, the plumbing is disconnected, the wiring is disconnected, and the pop off valve has been removed. The heater is sitting where it was, just rotated 90 degrees; connections facing up. I could easily lift it out, but as I'm sure it's posessed, it will surely burst into flames if it sees the light of day. I ordered an element on Ebay for $29 delivered. I'll repair the burned wire, as it's plenty long, with a new connector.

On second thought, I probably will remove the heater, just to give it a good flushing. I saw some sludge when I opened the drain.

The saga continues,

Don
 
Understand exactly why you have to remove or at least "tilt up" the HWH. I think Dave (dc380) stated the same thing somewhere in this thread.

Funny thing is the recessed "sump" it sits in has no drain. So if it springs a leak, the hole will fill with water (might take 3 gallons) and then wind up in the cabin. They plumbed the pressure release valve overboard and the drain valve into the bilge in the ER. Why wouldn't they plumb the sump somewhere that will save the boat from sinking if the tank springs a healthy leak while you're hooked up to dockside water?
 
I wonder if it would be feasible to put a bilge pump there and "T" into the pressure release line? I worry more about the discharge hose for the A/C units leaking or popping off and filling the boat. My heat and A/C are on 24/7.

Don
 
Can you fit a little bilge pump in that sump? I'm thinking no, unless you mount it high and leave the float and the hose dangling into there.
 
I probably will not do it, but I could....locate the float switch and a suction hose in the sump and put the pump 3" higher. Then route the outlet into a "T", going overboard.

Don
 
I was thinking about this recently, I'm thinking of adding a thru hull fitting above where the HW tank drain line passes into the bilge. Sure there will be about 3 inches of water left in the enclosure but its better than the alternative.
 
Had I kept my 380 I would have done the same. The recessed hole holds 6 gallons, then the water comes in the cabin. I was lucky, my cat found the wet rug before it got bad. Had he not gone into the guest room when he did, we would have woke to a lot of water in the cabin. The mixing valve in my case was leaking.
 
The dreaded mixing valve! Get rid of it!
 
OK, I would really appreciate some help! Anybody got pictures, or advice, about removing the headliner in the V-Berth and cabin on our 2000 380DA? We had a really small leak in the very front of the V-Berth last year. I had found one of the deck rails had a little play, and am assuming water is getting in there, and we need to re-bed the center deck rails (Where the 'bimbo pad' would go). This last rain (Biggest storm here in about 8-years), I had to put a tarp over the front deck. It was leaking enough to start soaking the forward part of the mattress! I searched some previous posts and it looks like there are stealth screws hidden in the cracks between the head liner pads? I would love to get some pointers on how much I am going to have to take apart, and how hard it will be to get the interior back together once I re-bed the rails. I will probably wait until we dry out some in the spring, but I would like to have a plan. Thanks!
 
The only help I can offer is regarding removal of the panels port and starboard of the v-berth. I had to remove them to install new LED nav lights. When you remove them by taking out a couple of screws, you can access the wiring for the nav lights. Taking these down may give you access elsewhere, I don't know.

Don
 
Thanks Don :thumbsup:Was it difficult to re-install the side pieces? I am pretty sure I can figure out how to take the stuff apart. My concern is whether I can get it back together looking as good as it does now.
 
Is there any chance you can be more specific as to where the phillips head screws are located, how many, etc. possibly photos? I need to replace my forward running lights and need access to the wiring underneath for this project. It appears that this is only accessible when the v berth (forward stateroom) headliners are removed. Thanks for any help!
 
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I am getting ready to have all of my isinglass replaced along with the canvas. I am curious what people have payed for this along with having the canopy extended at the back. I got a quote from a guy for $7300 to replace it all, extend the top, and replace the isinglass with if I remember right was stratoglass which he said will not scratch. I know different areas will be priced different but it will at least give me an overall ballpark figure to have in mind.
 
Performance questions
2000 380 Dancer w. 300HP 3126 Cats
What is the expected kts and RPM at wide open throttle
What is the best cruising kts and RPM

Going to Sea Trial shortly.
 
They should be 350 HP 3126's. From memory, since I sold the boat 3 years ago:

2800 RPM min (20-50 extra is better)
I'm a little hazy on WOT speed - 30-31 knots?

2400 RPM cruise
22-24 knots depending on conditions
 
Thanks QT,

I know it is confusing, but the label on the motors says 300HP and when I checked with the local authorized Cat marine dealer with the serial numbers they said 300 HP also. Not sure what is going on.

Nice looking 480DB. I had one with 3196 with ZF drives. What a disaster. Dumped it at a huge lose. Loved the boat, hated the motors.

R
 
The Sea Ray Spec Sheet says 3116s with either 292HP or the 340HP for 2000. I would get the serial numbers and check with CAT.

Don
 
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