Official 380 Thread

I bought Wix filters this year. Used them exclusively on my previous boat for years. They are a lot taller than the short Mercs. I know what you mean by tall vs. short Mercs but I don't know the part number difference.

Any particular reason why you want to switch to the synth blend? I use Sierra 25w40. I don't know of anyone else who makes that weight so I'm guessing it's the same manufacturer as the Merc oil, which was recommended for years.
 
I guess I'm thinking about it because of my racing background and the benefits we saw in engine ware when using synthetic. Am I thinking too deeply here?
 
I'm no expert but you might be. I guess if you put 150 hours per season and slog through heavy seas on a regular basis it's a great idea. But under normal usage patterns I just don't feel it's necessary. As for the filters, I too like the larger filter. Wix makes a great product - you probably already know that - I've been using them for years. Mercruiser does NOT manufacture oil filters - someone else makes them and slaps a merc paint job on. So is there really a Mercruiser filter??
 
I agree that the type of usage may not warrant using it I just like the fact that there's very little if any breakdown of synthetic as opposed to regular. I will definitely be using the Wix "tall" filters either way. Are you getting yours from an auto parts store or somewhere special?
 
RockAuto.com has the best prices but you may want to order a few things to justify the shipping charges. If you have spin-on water sep fuel filters you can get them there, as well as your generator filter equivalent.

Definitely no real downside to synth blend, other than cost, which is not really significant. You have to do what you feel comfortable with!
 
Just changed oil and filters. Note the difference in size btwn the short Quicksilver and the Wix.

OILFILTERS_zps55eaef32.jpg



But most importantly, it comes standard in "Mercruiser Black."

WIX_zpsbc176e0c.jpg
 
The water heater has stopped working, and trips the breaker at the slip. While on generator, it doesn't pull any amps. So, I suspect the element is gone. I removed the electrical cover on the heater, and the reset button doesn't change anything.

Has anyone replaced ONLY the element? I've discovered, to my surprise, that elements for the 6 gallon Attwood are available. So, if there are any tips out there that will save a few bloddy knuckles, I'm all ears (eyes, in this case).

Thanks in advance,

Don
 
The only way to change the element is to remove the entire unit. Once you have out, replacing the element is very easy. There aren't that many connections, so it's not that hard to get it out. While you are removing / disconnecting it, make sure the ground is firmly attached to the SS tank.
 
That happened on my previous boat. I bought an element at Home Depot for $12 and it worked for the 9 seasons I had the boat. Not sure about access on this boat. The element is right under that box thing shown below. Dave, he can't pull of the cover and slip out the element?
 
The element is facing Port, and it's at the very bottom of the Hot Water Well, there's no room to pull it out.
But maybe loosening all the screws that hold it down, and sliding it a little would work. Mine wouldn't move a inch, because they cut the plastic tubing with no slack. Worth a try, if you can get a few inches to work on it. But I think in the end the sides will be in the way.
 
whoops...forgot the pic.
Yes, the water lines are too tight to move anything. If you cut them to tilt the unit upup, you can reconnect with coupler fittings, but at that point it might make sense to just pull the whole thing out.

DSCN2034_zpsc6d5a0af.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies. My first instinct was to remove it all and replace the entire unit. I have removed the sofa back, and have access, but dread dealing with the sea-tech plumbing. Everything is very tight with no slack. I like the flexible tubing in the photo.
 
Southpaw, do not fear the SeaTech. I've had quite a few dealings with those fittings and they aren't that bad. Not as easy to work with as Sharkbite but pretty close. Not sure if you saw the thread I did about a year ago but it deals with the HWH and its dopey plumbing on our boats. I'll go out on a limb and say that you probably don't need to winterize your boat but at least this might give you an idea of what you'll be dealing with if/when you get in there. No matter what you do (replace the whole HWH or just the element) you're going to have to disconnect the plumbing leading to the unit.

http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/62988-Hot-Water-Heater-Permanent-Bypass-Install?highlight=
 
Thanks for the link. I don't know how I missed it last year....probably dealing with this pesky job thing. I never saw a mixing valve till I had a leak last year and had to replace a fitting. It must be a product liability thing. I'm surprised the heating element was available at Home Depot. I'll check that out (and pay with cash, not credit). I'll let you guys know how it works out.

Thanks again,

Don
 
Don
I found the element for the HWH on my previous boat (1989 SR). Not sure if it would fit a newer HWH. Good luck!
 
gator1 said:
Has anyone had trouble with their spotlight? Mine will only turn left to right and when attempting to move up and down nothing happens. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Doesn't look like you got a definitive answer on this. The ACR lights have 2 servo motors that move the lens up and down, and another that turns the lamp assembly. when you don't use these for a while, or you have it set on a sweet spot and don't move it, they will corrode in place or develop dead spots in the motors. You can get just the stepper motor, and replace it. Not too hard. I did that years ago on mine. Since making our units, ACR has improved the controller by adding some logic to "exercise" the unit once a month. I recently found the new controller, and a new keypad (have to change that too) on ebay, and replaced them both, as my controller had also failed later on.
A quick web search will come up with troublshooting guides, and how to test your unit to make sure it's the motor and not the controller that has failed. Look for RCL-100 Troubleshooting.pdf
 
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Mine goes left and right but not up and down.
 
Ok, so I finally got to the boat and started the dissasenbly process on the water heater. Turns out there was a wire burned in to. Last winter I sustained a water leak at a fitting just outside the heater. The result was soaked carpet in the aft cabin, and the water heater was sitting in water, down in that recessed area it sits in. After I vacuumed the water out and got everything dry, I fixed the leak, and all seemed to be fine. I guess that was where some corrosion began. This was the wire that attaches to the heating element. The wire burned in to, and there was some melted plastic on the element terminal. A new element has been ordered, and I will repair the wire with a new connector. So far I haven't broken any plumbing, and bleeding has been minimal.

Don
 
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