Official 380 Thread

The fridge is the largest "continuous" load on the batteries.

Use the panel meter to determine DC draw under typical conditions, in amperes.

Sum the available ampere-hours from the four active batteries, the gen is dedicated and separate.

Divide the available ampere-hours from the ampere load to get available hours.

That result is good for fresh batteries. Figure about a 15% drop per year in capacity.
 
Also, the helm is on a separate circuit and current draw doesn't show up on the cabin ampere meter, so either measure those loads with an appropriate instrument, or use the nameplate rating, which is higher, to include that current in the calculation.
 
Thanks you two that is all I was looking for, just a ballpark idea. :huh:

As soon as I get some free time I will also pursue the technical calculations also mentioned here.

:thumbsup:


Yes, all night is not a problem, but don't try to run all the 12V circuits. Fridge, lights and radio is OK. I've done it many times. Factory TVs on my boat are 120 V. Top off your batteries every 30 days with distilled water....I've had some last for 5 years, some for 3. My 380 came, as the manual says, with 5 group 27 batteries, and that is suficient. These group 27 batteries typically are available in the 600-850 cold cranking amp variety. I don't carry the portable jump start gizmo. My battery dedicated to start the genset is my backup. If you have room on board for the battery jumper, it sure wouldn't be a bad idea.

I agree with Southpaw, overnight should not be a problem. I don't run the generator all night. I've gone from 8:00 pm to 7:00 am several times witout a problem, and I have group 27 batteries. I do start the generator first thing in the morning to charge them up.
 
Also, the house is on one bank and the helm electronics are on the other, so factor that into your load / capacity calculations.

Mine is modified to permit shorting the banks together.

The battery switch at the top left of the image may be rotated to isolate or short the two banks together. I use that when on the hook for extended duration for maximum house run time. The switch shorts my five group 31 batteries, leaving the sixth still isolated for my gen / charger, in case I drain 'em down.


CharlesCharger.jpg
 
Re: new to Sea Ray 380

Hello to all...I've read the 380 thread with great interest as I am currently negotiating for the purchase of a 2002 with 8.1s. Hours are 600, not too high considering it's a 2002, manifolds/risers on one engine were recently replaced and there's 12 months left on the warranty. Any "watch items", warranty and manufacturer defects that you may have encountered over the years that I should know about would be appreciated.

Pseudomind....I see your in Jax, I'm in Daytona Beach ...ever get dowwn to ST Augustine?...we may have crossed wakes in the past.

Thanks


I was down there the day after Thanksgiving...lets just say I gave the on-lookers something to look at when. I docked at the St. Augustine, city marina. The current there can be fuuuuuuuuuuuuuunnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn anyway no damage was done...except my ego. I am going out next weekend and a few more weekends afterwords and practice, practice, practice with a licensed, experienced captain with me. he will just be next to me to assist if I need it.

I am going to be looking for windy and current conditions here on the St. Johns to practice stern/bow in slip docking, face docking etc.

I take it you are looking at a 380 by your comments? Since this is the 380 thread

I am currently negotiating for the purchase of a 2002 with 8.1s.
:thumbsup:
 
Anyone ever remove the forward cabin pocket door? I have a persistent problem with the rollers and the door is difficult to open and close. I really want to take the door down, and replace the "trucks" the door is hanging on, as well as possibly the track itself.
 
Yes, the 2002 I'm looking at is a 380. Regarding the fridge, the boat is covered for one more year under the Captains Class warranty. It should cover the thermostat, cooling unit and thermocouple. Anyone familiar with this warranty and experienced its limitations?
Regarding the manifolds and risers being replaced, I intend on working them into the negotiated price after the survey. I should be doing a sea trial next week followed by the survey the following week.

As for St Augustine...I've gone into the City Marina and with a north wind blowing and an incoming tide even experienced skippers are challenged. ...not only docking ..but departure as well. We were there for Halloween and a 48ish sustained some structural damage when the incoming tide/wind blew his starboard side into a steel piling as he tried to power out of the marina....poor assessment...he never had control of the vessel.
 
Mine sticks a little when it's closed all the way. So I looked to see if I could remove the door, and lube the track and rollers. But I don't see how. The door is bigger then the opening.

It's just the admiral and I most of the time, so I never followed up.

Have you tried asking Sea Ray? They should have a procedure.
 
Yes, the 2002 I'm looking at is a 380. Regarding the fridge, the boat is covered for one more year under the Captains Class warranty. It should cover the thermostat, cooling unit and thermocouple. Anyone familiar with this warranty and experienced its limitations?
Regarding the manifolds and risers being replaced, I intend on working them into the negotiated price after the survey. I should be doing a sea trial next week followed by the survey the following week.

As for St Augustine...I've gone into the City Marina and with a north wind blowing and an incoming tide even experienced skippers are challenged. ...not only docking ..but departure as well. We were there for Halloween and a 48ish sustained some structural damage when the incoming tide/wind blew his starboard side into a steel piling as he tried to power out of the marina....poor assessment...he never had control of the vessel.


If you have a choice? In my book, I would make sure they replace with Mercruiser parts . Parts alone are $2900.00 and change for the manifolds, risers and elbows, hoses, new bolts, stainless steel hose clamps, etc per engine. The Sea Ray elbows are stainless steel and the risers are (?upposedly) ceramic lined.

On my survey the owner had Barr's which were shot and most of hoses, and other hardware were gone. Survey showed this, the owner would have replaced with Barr's, but we worked out a deal and I agreed to pay the difference on the Mercruiser parts. (Replacing the Barr's for the owner was going to be between $4300.00 - $4800.00 including labor, for both engines, total cost to replace with Mercruiser parts around $7300.00, including labor) The only issue here is if you go with Sea Ray in Daytona Beach, Parker Sea Ray, and they do good work, (no shortcuts, bolts washers, clamps replaced, and not left off, because being hard to access) but I was not thrilled with their hourly labor rate $115.00 when the going market rate was $80.00.

Believe you me as this forum will attest, I have been learning a good bit about my boat from the site. There are many little nuisances, everything from the vacuflush system use, hot water heater operation, how and when the air conditioner water pump kicks in etc.

So if you get the 380 DA and have any questions, post them here. If I can help I will.

Good luck

:thumbsup:
 
Ok , new to the 380 thread - I am looking at a 2004 380 does anybody have the lowdown on what to look for? Ive read the thread and it seems the refer may be an issue, but how about the mechanics? Are there/have there been any recurring issues? I agree completely that this forum is probally one of the most useful sources of info. Thanks in advance!
- Jeff
 
So far no major issues, knock on wood. It took me awhile to find out the ends and outs of how some items operate. One main item being that the A/C might be on and air blowing, but not pumping water until the compressor kicks in, (supposedly some A/C units pump water whenever turned on)

Obtaining all of the manuals, as the previous owner must had lost some.

I am not going to get into gas versus diesel or bow thrusters. I do not have a bow thruster, but I would like to have one.

I would say go for a boat with all of the options you can find, except perhaps an ice maker as being a must option. I have since had installed a Reverso oil change system, so if you can find a boat with this that would be a plus.

I do not know what electronics the 2004 models have, but in my book, bigger chart plotters to me are better. I am not for sure if the 2004 came with the digital electronic engine monitor. I think it is called VesselView? or Smart Craft? But I would like to have that as an option.

Lastly a good survey performed, to include compression testing for gas engines. Oil analysis for I believe is more the norm fro diesels.

I am sure some others will chime in here in a bit.

Good luck
 
I agree with Pseudomind, no major re-occuring issues.
I believe in 2004 Merc was still putting Aluminum manifolds on the 8.1. Negotiate to have them replaced. If you boat in salt they will leak.

I had a 2004 aside of mine last year, and the only difference was the smartcraft. It's a nice feature. Everything else seemed to be the same. A bow thuster would be nice, but I don't have one, and I don't have any problem putting it where I want it. o

I love the boat, I moved from a 290 to the 380 and love the ride and extra room.

Good luck
 
Follow to my post from earlier this month re: 2002 380 purchase. Got to tell you I'm getting very anxious!! All that is left is signing on the dotted line.

Sea trials and survey was completed last week (also had an oil analysis done...it can tell a lot about engine wear and combustion). All went well,no significant issues and all will be corrected by the owner. Most serious was the safety switch on the stove cover being INOP. Not being familiar with the E120 Raymarine, I was impressed with the "Google Earth" -like graphics. The previous owner is also leaving a new set of spare props(nice of him, you never know when you'll need a prop).
She seemed to handle well, though I'm not accustomed to V drives. The sweet spot seems to be at 3400 rpm; anyone else observe the same?

We take ownership on Saturday...I'm sure I'll have my share of questions in the future.Thanks to all of you that have posted to this site. Your input has been very valuable in helping us make the decision to purchase a 380.
 
Congratulations, you will love the boat.

Yes, I would agree, 3400 or slightly less seems to be where the boat gets the best planning angle, and GPH.

Let us know if you have any questions. There are lots of systems to learn. It's nice to know that there are a lot of people on this forum that know a lot about each one.
 
Earlier in this thread there was talk about that wonderful piece of electronics, the RN300 (yeah right!)- I needed to replace my dash panels, so I also replaced the RN300 with the new Raymarine A50. I also have a Raymarine E80, so the A50 will serve as a backup and additional screen (The A50 also has a built in GPS antenna in case the E80/ Raystar 125 GPS antenna should fail). My E80, A50 and pilot are all now connected through NMEA.

I had Scott Cambra from Vector Imaging do the dash panels with led back lighting- he did a great job.

Brian
 

Attachments

  • 013 (Large).JPG
    013 (Large).JPG
    93.8 KB · Views: 541
  • 014 (Large).JPG
    014 (Large).JPG
    91.9 KB · Views: 519
  • 015 (Large).JPG
    015 (Large).JPG
    97 KB · Views: 533
Last edited:
Looks great. That E80 looks a lot better than the E120's people try to cram in there.

You happy with that ICOM VHF? I'm thinking of ditching my Raymarine POS for that radio... Plus it matches my ICOM SSB.
 
The previous owner added the ICOM and I am very happy with it- Very easy to use, and has integrated DSC (also via NMEA). Speaker is very loud and clear when cranked up, unlike the Raymarine I used to have on my AJ.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,171
Messages
1,427,823
Members
61,082
Latest member
wavespestcontrol
Back
Top