Official 380 Thread

The 380DA has two TV's, one above the refrig/freezer and one on a shelf in the master state room.

I have replaced the 13 inch TV in the main cabin with a Element 19 inch flat screen. Now I want to replace the 13 inch TV in the Master stateroom.


Do you have any more information about this TV? Is it 12 VDC also?

I have a 19i nch Magnovox with built in DVD player in the forward stateroom. But I have been looking, and I think if I got a TV and removed the bottom base, I could maybe angle in a 24 inch, 16 x 9 format screen.

There is no rush on my doing this, so I am going to study it a bit more first.

:thumbsup:
 
Question for owners of 2001, 2002, Sea Ray Sundancer 380's. Do you know for sure that your hot water heater is connected to your engines heat exchanger? If so can you give me an idea to where to locate/find the lines in the bilge which run to the hot water heater. I found the ones which run from the hot water heater to the aft swim platform

I have also found out that my air conditioners are the type that do not pump any water until the compressor comes on. I have been trying to obtain a straight answer on this for sometime now.

I checked my generator output frequency yesterday it is around 62.5 hertz, 119.xxxx volts under load, which I do not believe is anything to be worried about, but I am going to see if there is a filtering capacitor on my generator which perhaps needs to be replaced.

Shore power frequency is 59.99 - 60.02 hertz, electric is 120.xx volts

When I started the bow A/C unit the generator dipped down momentarily, then recouped. When I stated the salon A/C there was just a momentarily dip. I turned on all lights, exhaust blowers and set the A/C units to heat and 75 degrees, the compressors pumped water, and did it ever heat up the boat cabin. I let all of this run for about 25 minutes. The generator output frequency statyed at 62.5 hertz, 119.xxxx volts

Serpentine belt question, I started my engines yesterday and the starboard engine belt did not turn when I first started the engine. (Squealed) I shut the engine down and restarted. All ran normally. I will admit it has been about three weeks since I ran the engines. Any ideas about the belt sticking?

I have the 7 KW Westerbeke

Has anyone had to replace the windshield washer spray hose and nozzle/ I have heard, but have not checked myself that Sea Ray does not sell these parts anymore. I am more interested in finding the spray head, versus the hose.

Thanks
 
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Question for owners of 2001, 2002, Sea Ray Sundancer 380's. Do you know for sure that your hot water heater is connected to your engines heat exchanger? If so can you give me an idea to where to locate/find the lines in th ebilge which run to the hot water heater. I found the ones whcih run from the hot water heater to the aft swim platform......



The HWH on my previous 2002 380DA with 8.1s was 'definitely not' connected to the engines to circulate coolant and heat the water in the HWH tank.
 
Question for owners of 2001, 2002, Sea Ray Sundancer 380's. Do you know for sure that your hot water heater is connected to your engines heat exchanger?
My 2000 is also definitely not connected.

It would be easy enough to pop two holes through the firewall for the hoses, then seal them off to maintain the ignition-protected environment. I'd run those lines down low to keep 'em outta da way.

I have also found out that my air conditioners are the type that do not pump any water until the compressor comes on. I have been trying to obtain a straight answer on this for sometime now.
Are these not operating properly?

There is a box hidden behind the vertical cushion, underneath the AC/DC panel in the salon. That box holds two relay modules which perform an "OR" function, so the pump turns on when either the forward or aft AC operates.

Those modules give up the ghost and the pump then only runs when the working module calls for the pump.

Those don't show up on my schematic...
 
...There is a box hidden behind the vertical cushion, underneath the AC/DC panel in the salon. That box holds two relay modules which perform an "OR" function, so the pump turns on when either the forward or aft AC operates.

Those modules give up the ghost and the pump then only runs when the working module calls for the pump.

Those don't show up on my schematic...

Those are the triggers....

http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3687&highlight=triggers
 
My 2000 is also definitely not connected.

It would be easy enough to pop two holes through the firewall for the hoses, then seal them off to maintain the ignition-protected environment. I'd run those lines down low to keep 'em outta da way.

Are these not operating properly?

There is a box hidden behind the vertical cushion, underneath the AC/DC panel in the salon. That box holds two relay modules which perform an "OR" function, so the pump turns on when either the forward or aft AC operates.

Those modules give up the ghost and the pump then only runs when the working module calls for the pump.

Those don't show up on my schematic...


No not really a problem, but this Fall here in North Florida I would sometimes turn the A/C on on and no water would flow. This was typically after I had checked the A/C strainer. The temperature was not all that hot, yet the A/C fans were blowing. So I would turn the A/C off and check the strainer again, even going so far as loosening the pump hose to check for water flow (I was told an air blockage in the line from the strainer to the pump could stop the pump from pumping water)

So what it actually appears to be happening is that one can turn the A/C on and the blowers will blow, but no water is pumped until the actual compressors kick on.

This is what I was attempting to find out

Did I have a possible pump issue as no water was flowing.

I know this I go in set the thermostat to 75 degrees heat and power the unit on, water flows

It was in the mid 70's I did not have an extra thermometer to check the inside temps. I would turn the A/C on, no water flow, bu tth efan swere pumping out water. I was concerned about mildew I might comeback later and the water would be flowing

So basically what I am asking is that it is possble to turn the A/C on have the fans blow, but the compressor does not kick in, so ergo no water flow

No compressor running, no water pumping
 
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Do you have the manual for the a/c unit? There is a setting so that the display will flash back and forth, showing both the room temp and the "set" temp. Also, there is a setting that I have never used that is primarily used to control moisture in the cabin. Others may be able to elaborate more....the unit comes on periodically, primarily to run and de-humidify the cabin. Some folks use this when they are away for extended periods when the weather is above freezing. I let mine run 24/7 summer and winter; just adjust the temp accordingly for when I'm there.
 
So what it actually appears to be happening is that one can turn the A/C on and the blowers will blow, but no water is pumped until the actual compressors kick on.

This is what I was attempting to find out

Did I have a possible pump issue as no water was flowing.

So basically what I am asking is that it is possble to turn the A/C on have the fans blow, but the compressor does not kick in, so ergo no water flow

No compressor running, no water pumping
That is exactly the way the system should work.

The water flow is used to transfer heat into or out of the refrigerant, depending on the heat / cool setting. If the refrigerant isn't circulating / compressor not running, then there isn't any need to run the water pump.
 
Thanks all

Any ideas about this?

Pseudomind said:
Has anyone had to replace the windshield washer spray hose and nozzle/ I have heard, but have not checked myself that Sea Ray does not sell these parts anymore. I am more interested in finding the spray head, versus the hose.

Thanks


And Southpaw II this possible explains a lot

Southpaw II said:
Do you have the manual for the a/c unit? There is a setting so that the display will flash back and forth, showing both the room temp and the "set" temp...

So if the inside temp is less then the "Set" temp and depending on where the "Fan" control is set, one can power on the A/C the system fans will run, but the compressor will not kick on. (The inside temp being lower then the "Set" temp) ergo no being water pumped.
 
new to Sea Ray 380

Hello to all...I've read the 380 thread with great interest as I am currently negotiating for the purchase of a 2002 with 8.1s. Hours are 600, not too high considering it's a 2002, manifolds/risers on one engine were recently replaced and there's 12 months left on the warranty. Any "watch items", warranty and manufacturer defects that you may have encountered over the years that I should know about would be appreciated.

Pseudomind....I see your in Jax, I'm in Daytona Beach ...ever get dowwn to ST Augustine?...we may have crossed wakes in the past.

Thanks
 
Don't be surprised when your fridge dies...notice I said "when" not "if". But that's a norcold problem not a 380 problem. Great boat, I don't have too many complaints (right Frank W? :smt043).

Good luck with the purchase.
 
Why would they replace the manifolds on just one engine?

I would negotiate the other engine be done as well, as that year engine has aluminum manifolds which WILL leak. The replacement is cast iron.

How many hours on the generator?

 
I am looking to obtain a portable hot shot 12 VDC jump start system, which perhaps has just a battery recharge circuit built into it.

Anyone have any ideas? And if you have this information handy off the top of your head, what is the typically battery amp hour ratings for the 380's with the 8.1s engines?

I ask it this way as I do not know if a different battery amp hour rating is used for diesels or not.

Thanks

:thumbsup:
 
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Mine was built w/ five group 29 and I upgraded to six group 31 batteries.

The larger batteries were a better fit in the factory box and I added one more box, shifting the positions around.
 
The 380DA has a group 29 or 31 dedicated only to starting the gen.

So, if both banks run dry, then a fresh third bank starts the gen to power the charger.

Isn't that enough back-up?
 
Well it is like this,

I am trying to get an idea of how long one could expect battery power usage to last with just a couple of lights, VHF radio, chart plotter, refrigerator/freezer, anchor/running lights and perhaps a few hours to television. I would like to just turn the generator off, but I do not wish to wake up in the morning with dead batteries.

I have not heard it mentioned in the forums. I would rather have something with me if I did need it.

I am not attempting to be cute or smart ass here, but why is it one cannot typically ask just a simple question on the forum and just obtain a brief simple answer.

E.g. with minimal usage and good batteries one can reasonable expect around 12 hours usage before recharging is necessary

So with all else being equal, (batteries in good condition) about how many hours can one expect from their batteries with moderate usage, before it is necessary to start recharging? Is being on battery power overnight expecting two much.

Yes the 380 has five batteries in total.

Thanks


:thumbsup:
 
Yes, all night is not a problem, but don't try to run all the 12V circuits. Fridge, lights and radio is OK. I've done it many times. Factory TVs on my boat are 120 V. Top off your batteries every 30 days with distilled water....I've had some last for 5 years, some for 3. My 380 came, as the manual says, with 5 group 27 batteries, and that is suficient. These group 27 batteries typically are available in the 600-850 cold cranking amp variety. I don't carry the portable jump start gizmo. My battery dedicated to start the genset is my backup. If you have room on board for the battery jumper, it sure wouldn't be a bad idea.
 
I agree with Southpaw, overnight should not be a problem. I don't run the generator all night. I've gone from 8:00 pm to 7:00 am several times witout a problem, and I have group 27 batteries. I do start the generator first thing in the morning to charge them up.
 

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