Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Sealand says it should come on at 8" HG and shut off at 10" HG. I adjusted the switch while I was bench testing and had the gauge hooked up. I ran it up to 11" HG while I was testing to see if it would hold and it did.

The shaving cream can be used at possible leak points. Since you are dealing with vacuum you won't see bubbles from soapy water. The shaving cream will get sucked in at the leak.

Well, I'm not exactly sure what I did but the whole system held a vacuum all last night and today. The only thing I different was to pull the pedal up. When I did that I noticed the flush ball rotate back a bit and maybe that was where I wasn't getting a good seal. I know Sealand says in the manual to let the pedal "snap" up. I have been doing this but lifting the pedal closes it just a little more. I guess I will have to see if there it something catching.
 
Was the bowl holding water when you were leaking? If so it shouldn't be ur ball valve/seal. When that leaks it pulls the water down with the vacuum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Todd
 
Does anyone have a picture of the latch that holds the cabin door open? I have the part that is attached to the cabin, but the part on the door is missing. I came up with something, but it doesn't work quite right. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. Thanks in advance.

20150512_012030.jpg
 
Has anyone had luck in finding the 4" double stitched vinyl that was used in the cockpit? I have talked with Bristol Upholstery/1888boattops.com. They do not have any in stock. They can order it, but it would be a 30 yard minimum @ $45 per yard. I don't need that much.

cockpit vinyl.jpg
 
Just got back from a nice 4 niter at Lake Mead-all good-how is tracking down the head problem going?
 
JohnGordon said:
Does anyone have a picture of the latch that holds the cabin door open? I have the part that is attached to the cabin, but the part on the door is missing. I came up with something, but it doesn't work quite right. Here is a picture of what I am talking about. Thanks in advance.
]
Click to expand...





John,
My boat is still wrapped but I believe that the mating piece to that latch is just a small, thin, square of metal with a bend in the middle of approx 45 degrees. It's mounted to the door with two small screws. The latch slides down over the angled down area & latches over the end. I hope that description helps. I can post a photo in a couple weeks if need be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Todd
 
I'm in the same boat (lol) as Todd. Let us know and I'm sure someone will be able to snap a picture soon.
 
I think it's L-shaped. They get damaged when the door rollers wear, dropping the door lower so the latch bangs into it instead of gliding over. Eventually the screws let go and it falls off. The proper fix is to replace the door rollers and track so it doesn't happen again for a while. ( mine is "ok" for now, but I am worried the latch may break if someone opens the sliding door too roughly
 
Thanks everyone on the latch information. I got an L shaped piece, but the latch would catch on it when opening. However, I did not think of bending the tab so that the latch doesn't catch when opening the door. I will try that and report back.

Makes sense about the rollers/track wearing out and the door dropping; I will have to look at it.

I would appreciate any pictures you can take.

Well, I guess I didn't get the Vacuflush problems figured out. It is still cycling about every 15 minutes. I have pulled everything back out and I am testing each individual piece. I will report back when I have figured it out.
 
JohnGordon said:
Thanks everyone on the latch information. I got an L shaped piece, but the latch would catch on it when opening. However, I did not think of bending the tab so that the latch doesn't catch when opening the door. I will try that and report back.

Makes sense about the rollers/track wearing out and the door dropping; I will have to look at it.

I would appreciate any pictures you can take.

Well, I guess I didn't get the Vacuflush problems figured out. It is still cycling about every 15 minutes. I have pulled everything back out and I am testing each individual piece. I will report back when I have figured it out.
Click to expand...

John,

If you end up replacing the tracks & rollers, check out my homepage here. I'm pretty sure I posted a tutorial with pics when I did mine. But, if the door is rolling freely & latching shut & opening normally, your rollers are probably ok. When mine started to go I had to lift the door off of the latch every time I opened the door.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Todd
 
I'm a little late to the game,hope this helps
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160331_145835_902(1).jpg
    IMG_20160331_145835_902(1).jpg
    3.1 KB · Views: 437
Update on my manifolds. Looks like my cylinder blocks are aging bad. Hopefully it'll last me one more year. After cleaning the surface as best as I can I put it back together with permatex high temp sealant. Sealed very nicely and exhaust leak is gone! Engine runs smooth. Next year buying cylinder blocks new and swapping them out. Hopefully my engine will last me 10 more years (fingers crossed)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey guys!
Can anyone verify for me the wiring of the Perko switches for a 1994 330 sundancer? I have 3 batteries, 2 start batteries in the upper hatch and 1 house battery in the bilge. 2 perko switches with an emergency start solenoid in between. the switches are an ON/OFF and an OFF/1/ALL/2. This is the one thing I did not label when I pulled this thing apart! Thanks in advance!
 
Hi 330 Owners, well that day has come. After 6 years of ownership (entering my 7th season with the 330DA) its time to move up and find something I can fish a little. This group and this thread has been so helpful over the years. I will certainly mention this site to who ever buys my boat. So I've already posted this in the classified section, but I figured I'd put it up here too. Since I remember looking at this thread prior to even buying a 330. I was and still am convinced that the 330 DA is a great layout and use of space. Better than some of the newer 34's too... :grin: Thanks again to everyone on here who has helped answer all my questions over the years. http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/boa/5599823159.html
 
Hey all, new 330DA owner here in Chicago! And first time power boater of any kind for that matter. Always been on sailboats prior to this summer so I've got a bit to learn about some of the systems new to me. This site has already been invaluable to me just starting out!

One question if anyone here can help - my boat has hydraulic steering. I'm wondering if I have a hydraulic leak - we've only had the boat a couple days and took it out and seemed to handle well last night. But when inspecting the bilge afterward it looked like a bit of the red oil/fluid was around the bottom of the bilge. What confuses me a bit more is there is a 12" clear tube that seems to go from one bleed valve to the other on the cylinder. The tube is about 1/3 full of the fluid. The only reference I've seen to this tube is that it is only used for draining/bleeding the system. But why is there still some fluid in it? Anyone else have this?

I was thinking of cleaning the bilge spotless next time I'm out and refilling the hydraulic system and then looking for leaks the next time out. Could be the old fluid on the bilge bottom is from the previous owner, but I just want to be sure. Any other thoughts? Thanks!
 
First of all, Welcome to the Sea Ray family & 330 ownership! I am a bit confused though. You say that you have hydraulic steering but are leaking red fluid at the reservoir in the bilge?
Do you have outdrives & mean that you have power steering with a pump mounted on one of the motors? I have hydraulic steering on my boat with inboards & the reservoir is actually on the steering column. In addition I use Sea Star hydraulic fluid which is clear.

Todd

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the reply. I have inboards, and definitely have Seastar hydraulic steering. And I'm not actually sure where the red fluid came from in the bilge. It's not much, but it's really bright red so it stands out. I have to clean everything out and see if I can follow a trail. But what I'm definitely seeing is there is a clear tube attached to the cylinder (it's transom mounted in the engine room) that appears to just go from one bleed valve to the other on the actual cylinder itself (in the manual these are labeled as 3/8" bleed Tees). Inside this tube I see red fluid,but only about a third of the tube has this red fluid. I'm not really sure why that tube is there - the manuals don't mention it all and I only found one reference on the web that the Tee is simply used for bleeding and doesn't actually serve any other function. Maybe I'll have to see if these bleed valves might have vibrated loose or something. I understand that originally SeaStar fluid was red, maybe this is still really old fluid that I'm seeing.

I'll try to post a pic when I go out tonight or tomorrow. I'll also have to see if I have a spare bottle of the fluid, the guy left me extra everything on board.
 
Welcome aboard. Your steering sounds a bit different than mine. I have the same steering as Todd and I don't have a tube over the ram.

Red fluid would be either the trim tab pump mounted on the stern wall on the right as you look towards the back of the engine room. Or from a transmission. Red fluid is transmission fluid.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,242
Messages
1,429,135
Members
61,123
Latest member
Tim Duncan
Back
Top