Official 330 Sundancer Thread

I don't. However, if you go to the McMaster Carr catalogue on line they will give a lot of info. I am sure you will then be able to pick one. Good luck!
 
New 330DA owner.
Hope there is someone out there that could help me with my issue. My boat was repowered in 2007 with 496 Mag and one drive was changed other was rebuilt. The props were not changed and now it seems like it is overpowered coming out of the water. Once out is does 35 knots. The drive unfortunately are Bravo 1. Any suggestions on prop size would be greatly appreciated. Original engines were 7.4
 
New 330DA owner.
Hope there is someone out there that could help me with my issue. My boat was repowered in 2007 with 496 Mag and one drive was changed other was rebuilt. The props were not changed and now it seems like it is overpowered coming out of the water. Once out is does 35 knots. The drive unfortunately are Bravo 1. Any suggestions on prop size would be greatly appreciated. Original engines were 7.4

Welcome Premier,
I would highly recommend contacting your local (or any) Sea Ray dealer. They should be able to point you in the right direction. (especially if your 330 came in a 7.4 option that year).

Best of luck and enjoy her:thumbsup:
 
New 330DA owner.
Hope there is someone out there that could help me with my issue. My boat was repowered in 2007 with 496 Mag and one drive was changed other was rebuilt. The props were not changed and now it seems like it is overpowered coming out of the water. Once out is does 35 knots. The drive unfortunately are Bravo 1. Any suggestions on prop size would be greatly appreciated. Original engines were 7.4

Can you expand on "overpowered"?Are the props blowing out?Over reving?What props are on the boat now?Pitch?Max rpm?
 
First post...proud owner of a 97 330 Dancer...love the boat. Enjoyed the posts so far. I like the trim tab upgrade and I'll be looking into it promptly. I've never been happy with the slow speed planing ability or the bow angle. Thanks for the ideas!
 
Why did you go with the angle in the tab? Have you measure performance yet? I have my tabs off and I'm heading to the weld shop tomorrow...don't know whether to go your way or like the other boater here...
 
Why did you go with the angle in the tab?

I am curious about that as well. Interesting design.


...Have you measure performance yet? I have my tabs off and I'm heading to the weld shop tomorrow...don't know whether to go your way or like the other boater here..

If I am the other boater you are referring to, The increased performance with the extended tabs is unbelievable.
 
You are the boater...:) I'm getting ready to modify my tabs...wondering why some tabs have a dropped edge...I think you dropped both sides of yours...some have a rising edge, and some have a combination...was also wondering why you went with a squared out design as opposed to maintaining the original angles...more surface area I'm guessing?
 
You are the boater...:) I'm getting ready to modify my tabs...wondering why some tabs have a dropped edge...I think you dropped both sides of yours...some have a rising edge, and some have a combination...was also wondering why you went with a squared out design as opposed to maintaining the original angles...more surface area I'm guessing?

The dropped edges serve a two fold purpose. They stiffen the tab and provide for lift. They also act as "additional rudders". At hull speed she tracks true.

The rising at the trailing edge is to provide lateral stiffness. I squared the design for the exact reason you suggest. It provided additional surface area. If I were to stick to original design, the addition would have proved to be pretty useless.

Hang on...let me don my Nomex.

The original tab design was just that, a design.

The fancy angle on the tab was to make the 330 look sexier in the show room like a go fast. No more no less. That's not from me...It's from three Sea Ray Mechanics over the last decade.

Regardless of whether you decide to go with the down angle style as presented here, or with the straight back style as I have done. In either case two persons have taken a completely different approach to a design problem presented from the factory.

The 330 is not the only SR with an under tab issue. Others are taking the issue into the welders hands!

Let me know if I can be of any assistance.

DPM
 
We are up in Traverse City, were is your home port? Anxious to try the re designed trim tabs, I am in the aviation field, and adopted the "flap" theory we employ on acft wings..
 
Tabs are at the weld shop for modification. Thank you guys for all your help...

Next question...anyone with a 97 330 with 7.4L MPI's happen to have the plug wire and plug replacement information handy? I won't tell you how long it has been since they have been replaced....too embarrassed....:smt001
 
Crew of Two...
Tuned up my motors last year…
Replaced the Cap / Rotor / Plugs / Wires. I purchased all through ishopmarine.com
My 7.4 MPI Gen 1996-1997 fell between Serial Numbers 0F20104 THRU 0K999999
Cap: MM-808483T3
Rotor: MM-898253019
Wires: MM 84816608Q68
Plugs: AC - MR43T
NGK - BR6FS
Champion: RV15YC4
(Pick your poison, purchased at the local auto part store)
(MM = Mercury Marine OEM Parts)
 
Thanks for the outstanding information! I was using the lame excuse of having to find the data and now you have taken all my excuses away...
 
Leaking Cockpit Windows - Port and Stbd

Does anyone have leaky windows? Mine leak in the aft corners and run into the ice box on the port side and hit a speaker on the starboard.....any fixes? Did anyone replace the black foam on the outside of the windows? It is about 1/2 to 3/4" thick soft black foam....mine is completely shrunken down...having trouble finding a replacement..

Looking for more of your help!!

Splashing in St. Joseph Friday!!
 
Re: Leaking Cockpit Windows - Port and Stbd

Crap, I forgot I have the same leaking areas.. One more item to address this spring. did you get your trim tabs modified?
 
Crew of Two: The black foam you seek is called screw cover. You can buy it from Taylor Marine Products. When I get into work tomorrow I will post up a phone number and part number. They used 28'. Expect it to cost around $145 total including $25 for handling and $11 for Fed Ex delivery... Its not the foam it is the newer plastic they use in the new boats hopefully this holds up better. Seems like an fairly straight forward install. Cut it a bit bigger incase it shrinks..

I have yet to install mine will be doing it this weekend. Need to find something to cut it nice and straight, I am thinking some kitchen shears...

Edit here is the contact info and the part number: Theresa was a big help and great to deal with!

I show we used 28ft of 8349030 for that boat, its $3.71 a foot, plus $25 handling plus shipping.

Theresa Havlick
Taylor Made Systems
Customer Service
93 South Blvd
Gloversville, NY 12078
518-773-9449
 
Last edited:
Crew of Two...

I have also seen the Windshield Seal at West Marine. Looks like the same material used in production. Going from memory the seal was sold in 8 ft sections for around $40. The Dimensions were 1 1/4 inch by 5/8 inch. SUpplied by a company caller Taco Metals.

I have yet to make the purchase, interested in the Taylor Made Product.
 
I replaced the black foam with gray pipe insulation from a homedepotlowes. Cut the insulation in half with a razor and stuff it in place. Good luck with it so far. I think I have about $15 invested.

If that fails, I have other ideas. I'll try them and test them prior to posting.
 

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