Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Crew Of Two said:
Do any of you 330 owners have your shower sump pump running frequently? I actually seem to have some water source getting in there and I haven't figured out what it is yet...we don't use the shower so I don't even have a guess...
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When you say frequently, how frequent? Possible source is the A/C condensation, mine is designed to drain in to the shower sump box, which would trigger the pump even if you don't use the shower. If the pump runs too often it might need cleaning, possibly it's not pumping the water out even though it's running. If cleaning doesn't work just replace it. It's only about $50+.
 
bliss said:
C-wood, Very nice!!
DPM, You and I think the same way. I too had thought of the pipe insulation. My other thought is going straight to a mnftr. of extruded closed foam product. When I search the web I find lots of mnftrs. I didn't find anything that would fit in either in Granger or McMaster Carr.
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If the pipe insulation proves to be a bust, my next route will be something on the order of "Great Stuff" foam insulation and foam it in place against a wax paper or plastic backing in the event I have to dig it out to do repairs.
 
dpmulvey said:
If the pipe insulation proves to be a bust, my next route will be something on the order of "Great Stuff" foam insulation and foam it in place against a wax paper or plastic backing in the event I have to dig it out to do repairs.
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C'mon David, Have you ever worked with that stuff??? Extremely messy and IMHO will look like total crap. This just might be one of those times to pony up the $$ and do it with the correct stuff. I know thats what I'm going to do!! Todd
 
Never worked with it before. Unless the OEM stuff is closed cell foam, what are you gaining. Mine is like a sponge. Then again, mine is 10 years old.
 
Hey fellow 330 owners,

I will be installing a new GPS/fisher finder c/w temp sensor. Lawrance LMS-525C-DF.

Just wondering if someone can pass along any advice as to where the best place to route cables once I have them in engine room to under dash?

Also any suggestions as where I should mount transducer thru hull or external?

Thanks in advance

Ted:smt100
 
Alex F said:
When you say frequently, how frequent? Possible source is the A/C condensation, mine is designed to drain in to the shower sump box, which would trigger the pump even if you don't use the shower. If the pump runs too often it might need cleaning, possibly it's not pumping the water out even though it's running. If cleaning doesn't work just replace it. It's only about $50+.
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Mine ran for maybe 20 seconds about once every 5 to 10 minutes depending on humidity.
 
That is what mine is doing...I originally thought it was A/C condensation but I think it does it whether the A/C is on or not...
 
dpmulvey said:
Never worked with it before. Unless the OEM stuff is closed cell foam, what are you gaining. Mine is like a sponge. Then again, mine is 10 years old.
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If I am not mistaken I think Crew of two said it is now made of vinyl. If nothing else I'd stick with the pipe insulation if you want to save the denero. That spray stuff will be a nightmare! Just my $0.02. Todd
 
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New stuff is vinyl...like the window seals on the inside...seals tight and can't absorb water...only down side is cost...I paid $175 when all was done...
 
Crew Of Two said:
New stuff is vinyl...like the window seals on the inside...seals tight and can't absorb water...only down side is cost...I paid $175 when all was done...
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C O 2, That is a small price to pay for the look AND piece of mind!! I'm onboard. Todd
 
Regarding redoing the bow railing to decking sealing, I started by visually accessing the nuts in the interior. Start at the fwd. berth, pull the side bolsters (several screws in the center seam)work aft on both sides by removing whatever panels were hiding the nuts. Took about one hour to get to all the interior locations. The toughest access was BEHIND the microwave, four screws and it came out. Had to notch out the false bulkhead behind the micro to access those nuts. I also redid the sealing of the side cleats while I was at it. In the cockpit, stbd. side pulled the Woofer spkr, and in the stbd aft storage there is a round plate to access the end stbd. rail screws. Port side access in the cockpit wasn't too bad..I used West Marine Polyether sealant to reseal, cleans up nice with acetone..If any one has any other questions give me a P.M. Plan on a full day..
 
Crew Of Two said:
New stuff is vinyl...like the window seals on the inside...seals tight and can't absorb water...only down side is cost...I paid $175 when all was done...
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$175 is bad...but not too bad. I thought I was looking at $500 - $600.

What is the compression ratio. One of the things I fear of the product is..........................

shrinkage.jpg
 
I think shrinkage will be non-existant. I cut it as long as possible to fit tightly.

I cut it using a very sharp Buck knife. A razor knife or utility knife would also work well.

I'll let you all know in 3-4 years about the shrinkage...you guys keep washing the dirty foam pieces off your boats...:smt043

Don't forget, if you do it, you may want to reseal the window screws. All of mine were lose and needed it!
 
Has anyone with a similar model to my 1998 ever install a screen on the cabin door?
 
"I'll let you all know in 3-4 years about the shrinkage...you guys keep washing the dirty foam pieces off your boats...:smt043"


:lol::smt043:lol:!!!!!!!!
 
Plane 2 Sea said:
Regarding redoing the bow railing to decking sealing, I started by visually accessing the nuts in the interior. Start at the fwd. berth, pull the side bolsters (several screws in the center seam)work aft on both sides by removing whatever panels were hiding the nuts. Took about one hour to get to all the interior locations. The toughest access was BEHIND the microwave, four screws and it came out. Had to notch out the false bulkhead behind the micro to access those nuts. I also redid the sealing of the side cleats while I was at it. In the cockpit, stbd. side pulled the Woofer spkr, and in the stbd aft storage there is a round plate to access the end stbd. rail screws. Port side access in the cockpit wasn't too bad..I used West Marine Polyether sealant to reseal, cleans up nice with acetone..If any one has any other questions give me a P.M. Plan on a full day..
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How did you get to stantion stbd of helm and also did you have to fill in where decking was rotted? Thank You
 
The stantion stbd of helm was accessed by removing the large (woofer) speaker and reaching up for the nuts. Actually wasn't too bad. The real bad stantion was behind the micro wave..required removing a portion of a plywood bulkhead to reach the nuts..watch out for the wiring loom! Found no signs of rotted or delaminated fiberglass during the process..
 
Premier said:
Has anyone with a similar model to my 1998 ever install a screen on the cabin door?
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I have never done this because my camper top is always up. I read somewhere else on this site that people use a piece of screen with some velcro to hold it in place. Try doing a search.....
 
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